Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from DaveBaxt in Stairs on the hull planking and on the wale
The last picture = is likely a first rate or ship expected to be a flagship. The change is at an entry "door". Only the "plebs" would be using the steps above the door. There is even a wider step at the level of the upper gun deck for those who use the gun port at that level instead of climbing to the rail.
The steps for the fat old men (flag oficiers) are wider and more uniform.
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Jaager got a reaction from DaveBaxt in Stairs on the hull planking and on the wale
Building codes specify stairs have specific height and depth ratios - I think our brains quickly adapt to and expect a rhythm when climbing a manufactured apparatus. The "bulge" at a wale would be easier to adapt to than a difference in step depth or distance between steps. Since most vessels had significant tumble home, the body contact with the higher steps would signal where a foot should go.
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Jaager got a reaction from dvm27 in HMS Portland 1770 by scrubbyj427 - 1:48 - 4th rate 50-gun ship
Rather than the vertical under the counter supports, why not mimic the original and use horizontal instead?
I would worry that vertical may not fit well with the run of the planking. The upper part of the planking will run in almost the same axis.
You could have flat filler pieces between the pseudo transoms with holes for dowels into the last mold. This would make a precise locator for each filler (reverse mortise) for almost idiot proof slots for the transoms. You could include a few Bamboo skewers as the dowels and burn holes that are their diameter.
If you doubled up on each transom (two pieces instead of one in each slot) the planking would have a firm support. The planking will have serious bending and a firm base will have a better grab.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Unknown Table Saw
It is a Jarmac. The ID label has been removed. It was made in a one-man shop in Springfield, IL. When the owner died, his shop died with him.
It filled the small table saw niche during the time between the loss of the Unimat with its saw attachment and the JIM saw. The motor is probably a repurposed sewing machine motor - no power. It sorta worked with stock that was essentially veneer thickness.
The fence was a welded bar - low - no adjustment. Simple miter gauge. Two tracks - so a home made sliding table worked for it.
If you make a sliding table - about a full afternoon's time expense - it will be machine that fills the crosscut function that the recent chopper saw thread was all about.
Note that the blade is a slotting blade - too many teeth for anything more than thick veneer.
The companies that made reasonably priced blades that fit - Thurston and Martindale - no longer do.
I think that there was a similarly T-ball league disc sander in the Jarmac line. Not really good, frustrating, but better than nothing if it was the only thing available.
In my imagination, I can see this machine as a negative example for Jim.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in General Build - Keel/Stem Advice
Along with my premise that plastic may be a hindrance as an introduction to wooden ship model kits because of the difference in now the instructions relate (or how the older wooden kit instructions did). Unrealistic expectations because of the many different skills beyond just assembly and and that most of them are common to just about every kit. This gets repetitive and and excessive to do for every kit when there are "how to" books that do this.
Looking at the above, I have another premise. A plastic kit is straight forward assembly. Additional knowledge about the anatomy and physiology of the object being assembled is not necessary. For a wooden ship model, it is important to have at least a basic knowledge of the individual parts and how they fit together. Knowing the proper names allows for an easier look up or inquiry about what is going on.
Knowing what a proper keel, keel rabbet, stem, stem rabbet, hawse timbers (the first planking layer has to cover the purpose of the hawse timbers) the proper run of planking,
would help with this specific problem. Faking it is not likely to yield a satisfactory product.
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Jaager reacted to druxey in Unknown Table Saw
Jaager: Your reference to the Unimat saw attachment made me smile. Back in 1970 that was the only way I could cut plank and other stock. A lot of hit and miss with any cut depths or widths! And the dust everywhere....
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Unknown Table Saw
It is a Jarmac. The ID label has been removed. It was made in a one-man shop in Springfield, IL. When the owner died, his shop died with him.
It filled the small table saw niche during the time between the loss of the Unimat with its saw attachment and the JIM saw. The motor is probably a repurposed sewing machine motor - no power. It sorta worked with stock that was essentially veneer thickness.
The fence was a welded bar - low - no adjustment. Simple miter gauge. Two tracks - so a home made sliding table worked for it.
If you make a sliding table - about a full afternoon's time expense - it will be machine that fills the crosscut function that the recent chopper saw thread was all about.
Note that the blade is a slotting blade - too many teeth for anything more than thick veneer.
The companies that made reasonably priced blades that fit - Thurston and Martindale - no longer do.
I think that there was a similarly T-ball league disc sander in the Jarmac line. Not really good, frustrating, but better than nothing if it was the only thing available.
In my imagination, I can see this machine as a negative example for Jim.
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Jaager got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Unknown Table Saw
It is a Jarmac. The ID label has been removed. It was made in a one-man shop in Springfield, IL. When the owner died, his shop died with him.
It filled the small table saw niche during the time between the loss of the Unimat with its saw attachment and the JIM saw. The motor is probably a repurposed sewing machine motor - no power. It sorta worked with stock that was essentially veneer thickness.
The fence was a welded bar - low - no adjustment. Simple miter gauge. Two tracks - so a home made sliding table worked for it.
If you make a sliding table - about a full afternoon's time expense - it will be machine that fills the crosscut function that the recent chopper saw thread was all about.
Note that the blade is a slotting blade - too many teeth for anything more than thick veneer.
The companies that made reasonably priced blades that fit - Thurston and Martindale - no longer do.
I think that there was a similarly T-ball league disc sander in the Jarmac line. Not really good, frustrating, but better than nothing if it was the only thing available.
In my imagination, I can see this machine as a negative example for Jim.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Portland 1770 by scrubbyj427 - 1:48 - 4th rate 50-gun ship
Rather than the vertical under the counter supports, why not mimic the original and use horizontal instead?
I would worry that vertical may not fit well with the run of the planking. The upper part of the planking will run in almost the same axis.
You could have flat filler pieces between the pseudo transoms with holes for dowels into the last mold. This would make a precise locator for each filler (reverse mortise) for almost idiot proof slots for the transoms. You could include a few Bamboo skewers as the dowels and burn holes that are their diameter.
If you doubled up on each transom (two pieces instead of one in each slot) the planking would have a firm support. The planking will have serious bending and a firm base will have a better grab.
-
Jaager got a reaction from davec in Unknown Table Saw
It is a Jarmac. The ID label has been removed. It was made in a one-man shop in Springfield, IL. When the owner died, his shop died with him.
It filled the small table saw niche during the time between the loss of the Unimat with its saw attachment and the JIM saw. The motor is probably a repurposed sewing machine motor - no power. It sorta worked with stock that was essentially veneer thickness.
The fence was a welded bar - low - no adjustment. Simple miter gauge. Two tracks - so a home made sliding table worked for it.
If you make a sliding table - about a full afternoon's time expense - it will be machine that fills the crosscut function that the recent chopper saw thread was all about.
Note that the blade is a slotting blade - too many teeth for anything more than thick veneer.
The companies that made reasonably priced blades that fit - Thurston and Martindale - no longer do.
I think that there was a similarly T-ball league disc sander in the Jarmac line. Not really good, frustrating, but better than nothing if it was the only thing available.
In my imagination, I can see this machine as a negative example for Jim.
-
Jaager got a reaction from allanyed in General Build - Keel/Stem Advice
Along with my premise that plastic may be a hindrance as an introduction to wooden ship model kits because of the difference in now the instructions relate (or how the older wooden kit instructions did). Unrealistic expectations because of the many different skills beyond just assembly and and that most of them are common to just about every kit. This gets repetitive and and excessive to do for every kit when there are "how to" books that do this.
Looking at the above, I have another premise. A plastic kit is straight forward assembly. Additional knowledge about the anatomy and physiology of the object being assembled is not necessary. For a wooden ship model, it is important to have at least a basic knowledge of the individual parts and how they fit together. Knowing the proper names allows for an easier look up or inquiry about what is going on.
Knowing what a proper keel, keel rabbet, stem, stem rabbet, hawse timbers (the first planking layer has to cover the purpose of the hawse timbers) the proper run of planking,
would help with this specific problem. Faking it is not likely to yield a satisfactory product.
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Jaager got a reaction from Roger Pellett in Newbie here- Flattening the planks?
Things are not nearly a dire as they seem.
Polaris is a double layer POB build.
You are doing the first layer. The only function of the first layer of planking is to provide an adequate base for the actual planking.
The molds on most POB kits are too widely spaced to provide support by themselves. Even though the first Italian kits termed them bulkheads, this is not what they are.
Actual bulkheads are a feature of steel vessels and Chinese sea going junks. Western wooden ships did not have bulkheads. They are a mold of the cross section at their location.
For that first planking layer - just good enough for the outer layer is enough. Gaps between strakes are not important. They do not need to be filled. If there are dips and hollows between the molds, these need to be fleshed out. Often a scab of wood does a better job than spackle if the dip is significant.
If there is enough support for the outer planking, it does not matter what it looks like.
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Jaager got a reaction from dcicero in Fridericiana Alexandrina Navis, 1st century Roman Danube River boat
What with the epidemic of greed which defines the current era, there is a high probability that any plans would rival the kit in how much is the cost.
If you have the materials and facilities to fabricate the model from its plans, the parts of the kit itself can be used as 3D plans for to fabricate a total replacement model using appropriate species of wood.
Just a suggestion.
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Jaager got a reaction from Dan DSilva in Material for small-scale oars
It is the same as drawing Bamboo trunnels.
For years I have used General steel drill gauges
1-60
61-80
They work -I rub the reverse on a sharpening stone from time to time.
Then there was one that works really well
The Jim drawplate which I think is still available from http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/drawplate5.html
The Bamboo skewers on the end caps are hit or miss as to which variety is in the bag. Some are soft and play nice but then to crush at the gripper and some are hard and brittle and fight you all the way.
I have never seen drawplates for wood and I wonder if there is the necessary range of holes? I have jewelers drawplates, but they are more difficult to use - Thick with a cone on the reverse - it is a lot of work to get enough Bamboo thru the hole to have enough to grip and pushing does not work ar all
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Jaager got a reaction from allanyed in Drawing center lines
This is the old style marking gauge:
Replace the steel scribing point with a section of a 2mm HB mechanical pencil lead
Using scrap wood stock and a chisel a miniature version is easy to fabricate.
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Jaager got a reaction from Knocklouder in Newbie here- Flattening the planks?
Things are not nearly a dire as they seem.
Polaris is a double layer POB build.
You are doing the first layer. The only function of the first layer of planking is to provide an adequate base for the actual planking.
The molds on most POB kits are too widely spaced to provide support by themselves. Even though the first Italian kits termed them bulkheads, this is not what they are.
Actual bulkheads are a feature of steel vessels and Chinese sea going junks. Western wooden ships did not have bulkheads. They are a mold of the cross section at their location.
For that first planking layer - just good enough for the outer layer is enough. Gaps between strakes are not important. They do not need to be filled. If there are dips and hollows between the molds, these need to be fleshed out. Often a scab of wood does a better job than spackle if the dip is significant.
If there is enough support for the outer planking, it does not matter what it looks like.
-
Jaager got a reaction from allanyed in Chopper Lesson Learned
I have an original version of the Dobson J never found a way to get satisfactory work out of it.
The whole unit wants to move and rock when the blade is being used. After your comment, I can see that it being fixed to a large enough base solves that problem. It does greatly increase the real estate occupied by the device though.
The blade is inside a sleeve and held vertical by two plastic screws - and I have not been successful in finding the sweet spot between a wobble and too much friction for the blade to slide easily. The grab helps cause the sliding and rocking.
The stock wants to move back and forth with the blade. The brass wires for a hold down are too flimsy.
It requires four hands. If fixed to a base, it is then down to three hands.
I am not sure that razor saws models that allow for just the steel blade to be replaced are thin enough to fit the sleeve. This important because I have come to prefer a cut being on the pull stroke instead of the push stroke.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Chopper Lesson Learned
I have an original version of the Dobson J never found a way to get satisfactory work out of it.
The whole unit wants to move and rock when the blade is being used. After your comment, I can see that it being fixed to a large enough base solves that problem. It does greatly increase the real estate occupied by the device though.
The blade is inside a sleeve and held vertical by two plastic screws - and I have not been successful in finding the sweet spot between a wobble and too much friction for the blade to slide easily. The grab helps cause the sliding and rocking.
The stock wants to move back and forth with the blade. The brass wires for a hold down are too flimsy.
It requires four hands. If fixed to a base, it is then down to three hands.
I am not sure that razor saws models that allow for just the steel blade to be replaced are thin enough to fit the sleeve. This important because I have come to prefer a cut being on the pull stroke instead of the push stroke.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Instructions for rigging Cutty Sark
I see the original volume is available on the second hand market
Half of it covers masting and rigging
I have the US reprint by Sweetman :
CUTTY SARK, THE 1933
LONGRIDGE,C N
EDWARD W SWEETMAN
NEW YORK
1959
Make sure the loose plans are in the pocket.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Material for small-scale oars
It is the same as drawing Bamboo trunnels.
For years I have used General steel drill gauges
1-60
61-80
They work -I rub the reverse on a sharpening stone from time to time.
Then there was one that works really well
The Jim drawplate which I think is still available from http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/drawplate5.html
The Bamboo skewers on the end caps are hit or miss as to which variety is in the bag. Some are soft and play nice but then to crush at the gripper and some are hard and brittle and fight you all the way.
I have never seen drawplates for wood and I wonder if there is the necessary range of holes? I have jewelers drawplates, but they are more difficult to use - Thick with a cone on the reverse - it is a lot of work to get enough Bamboo thru the hole to have enough to grip and pushing does not work ar all
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Newbie here- Flattening the planks?
Things are not nearly a dire as they seem.
Polaris is a double layer POB build.
You are doing the first layer. The only function of the first layer of planking is to provide an adequate base for the actual planking.
The molds on most POB kits are too widely spaced to provide support by themselves. Even though the first Italian kits termed them bulkheads, this is not what they are.
Actual bulkheads are a feature of steel vessels and Chinese sea going junks. Western wooden ships did not have bulkheads. They are a mold of the cross section at their location.
For that first planking layer - just good enough for the outer layer is enough. Gaps between strakes are not important. They do not need to be filled. If there are dips and hollows between the molds, these need to be fleshed out. Often a scab of wood does a better job than spackle if the dip is significant.
If there is enough support for the outer planking, it does not matter what it looks like.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Newbie here- Flattening the planks?
If you click on the Articles Database link at the top here and scroll down to the Framing and Planking section, the bottom three articles will show how the planking should be done. You do not have the materials to match what is shown, but this may give you a map for adapting as best can. Or you can buy wider and better replacement planking from a vendor at the right side of this page.
You cannot spill an "S" shaped plank from wider stock with what is your kit supplied planking, Trying to edge bend to a serious degree is fighting the nature of the wood, so at least you should have some idea about the cause of your frustration. The garboard is the key to getting the rest of the planking to work out. For it, the edge opposite the keel should stay dead straight. Any removal should be at the keel edge and that should mostly be at the stem rabbet. Never bend the ends up the stem.
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Jaager got a reaction from Roger Pellett in Instructions for rigging Cutty Sark
I see the original volume is available on the second hand market
Half of it covers masting and rigging
I have the US reprint by Sweetman :
CUTTY SARK, THE 1933
LONGRIDGE,C N
EDWARD W SWEETMAN
NEW YORK
1959
Make sure the loose plans are in the pocket.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Fridericiana Alexandrina Navis, 1st century Roman Danube River boat
What with the epidemic of greed which defines the current era, there is a high probability that any plans would rival the kit in how much is the cost.
If you have the materials and facilities to fabricate the model from its plans, the parts of the kit itself can be used as 3D plans for to fabricate a total replacement model using appropriate species of wood.
Just a suggestion.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Chikpeas in Newbie here- Flattening the planks?
Things are not nearly a dire as they seem.
Polaris is a double layer POB build.
You are doing the first layer. The only function of the first layer of planking is to provide an adequate base for the actual planking.
The molds on most POB kits are too widely spaced to provide support by themselves. Even though the first Italian kits termed them bulkheads, this is not what they are.
Actual bulkheads are a feature of steel vessels and Chinese sea going junks. Western wooden ships did not have bulkheads. They are a mold of the cross section at their location.
For that first planking layer - just good enough for the outer layer is enough. Gaps between strakes are not important. They do not need to be filled. If there are dips and hollows between the molds, these need to be fleshed out. Often a scab of wood does a better job than spackle if the dip is significant.
If there is enough support for the outer planking, it does not matter what it looks like.
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