Jaager

There were two sailing ships in the US Navy with name Constellation.  The first was a 36 gun frigate 1797.  The second was a 24 gun corvette 1855.   One was part of the first generation  of seriously sized warships built by the US Navy.  The second was the last pure sail warship built by the Navy.  The corvette still exists.  It is in Baltimore MD.  The city obtained it and use it as an attraction.  For budgetary reasons, the Navy pretended that the frigate was "repaired" into the corvette.  It was not.  The corvette was an entirely new vessel.  Baltimore thought that pretending that it had a vessel from 1797 would make it into a better attraction and tried to turn corvette into the frigate.  The corvette was 10 feet longer.  It  had one deck with guns.  It had an elliptical stern. When the corvette was turned over to Baltimore, it had undergone several repairs and "improvements" to match whatever the prevailing fashion was in each instance.  I would not be surprised if there was a spar deck for a while.  The definition of "frigate" means that there is more than one deck with guns, even if it was just two additional  guns on the quarter deck.  The frigate had a flat stern.  Now the frigate lived a long life, especially for something government built, built of wood, floating in salt water, and having been shot at.  In the run up to the War of 1812, the Navy - a new generation from 1797, modernized the fleet.  Check the thread here on the (mainly stern windows it seems) and which ship had how many and when it had them. 
 
Baltimore produced a hideous chimera when they tried to turn a much altered 1855 corvette into a 1797 frigate.  I think they have tried to undo that recently, but I have no first hand information.  The kit has and elliptical stern and a quarterdeck and a foredeck.  It is just plain awful.  Mark Taylor tried to make it into the 1855 corvette.  H did a good job of it - see his gallery posting - but I suspect that he would not do it again.  You can build it as presented and have a grotesque mismash.  You can follow Mark's example and essentially scratch build the corvette using the basic hull.  You can mostly scratch build the frigate by shortening the hull ad building a flat stern.   The sane course would be to store the kit on a obscure shelf and forget that you ever bought it and begin a top quality kit of a ship that really was.

When the site screen is a display for the whole of it, there is a column of links on the lower right.  One of them is for Sea Watch Books.
I just clicked the link and the entire series is still available.   I would not depend on that being a long term situation.  As I wrote in a parallel thread. 
my reading of the tea leaves,  of signs and portents suggests that if you ever want any of the book listed there,  sooner rather than later would be when you should
place your order.   I generally would purchase each year's new editions as a single order, so a large order is not unheard of there.

Thus far this is an extraordinary effort and represents what must be a significant number of hours.
 
Looking at the three completed members of the lost fleet, it became clear to me that a great gift was given to the US Navy with their loss.  The liners and the frigates were obsolete.  They were too large and slow to be of real use for the functions needed for next four years  The crew and supplies would have been far more costly than any benefit they could provide.   The Germantown, Plymouth, and Dolphin were a real loss.  This way , instead of Congress being negative  about paying for replacements because the Navy have to scrap them, they got sympathy.  The Merrimack by having a engine was something of a loss, but her size versus the job - blockade and chasing smugglers was a bit too large.

When the site screen is a display for the whole of it, there is a column of links on the lower right.  One of them is for Sea Watch Books.
I just clicked the link and the entire series is still available.   I would not depend on that being a long term situation.  As I wrote in a parallel thread. 
my reading of the tea leaves,  of signs and portents suggests that if you ever want any of the book listed there,  sooner rather than later would be when you should
place your order.   I generally would purchase each year's new editions as a single order, so a large order is not unheard of there.

To add to this topic  I am posting - with Guild permission as copy of the data provided to NRJ subscribers in 1979.
It is from USN Standards 1900
 
 
oars.pdf

I have every issue up until they went bankrupt.  I reacted poorly to the "You are SOL" letter, and did not subscribe to the follow on version.  It is a big hole in my library and it rankles that those issues are missing. 
But, they seem to be more steel than sail and the content very shallow.  But boy howdy!  The early editions were like going from a 25 Watt bulb to full sun as far as sail modeling possibilities.  Then the NRJ had some editors who were determined to get a lot of rare and obscure or hard to get original information available to us.  What with the addition of Conway books, it was a wonderful age.

Yup!   I can't spell for beans.  I was taught look/see method - no system, memorize each word separately.  As it is, I can spell in German better than I can in English.  They seem to have a rigid system for how their words are spelled.  English seems to accumulate words from every other language in the planet and keep their spelling of it too.  My word sort of sounds like an infectious condition.  Using Southern and country pronunciation does not help either.   One of the really annoying things here is while it tells you when it thinks a word is misspelled - it does not tell you what its correct spelling should be.    I have  to use Google to find the correct spelling and my hick pronunciation is so far off that it takes several tries.   I say the word: pro-noun-see-ation    and height  =  heigth    It would also be nice if it would stop saying that words like futtock was a misspelling, though.
 
I have read nothing about this, but so much of the Conway content involved John Gardiner, he seems to have been the driving force there.  He seems to have poured his heart and soul into it.  I think he deserves the equivalent of a statue.  This field seems to dried up a bit with his departure.

This is straight out of my head, so no pictures.
Most table saws that can do a rip cut that is other than 90 degree vertical - tilt the blade.
The Byrnes saw holds the blade vertical and tilts the table - the right of the blade part of the table.
Kurt and No Idea suggest that because of gravity and friction,  the wood can move away from the blade -because it  mostly rests on an angled surface.
They mimic the standard table saw by tilting the blade, and making the accessory table horizontal.  The rest of the saw goes with the blade.
The saw comes on its own base.  A heavy one.  They place wedges  under the base to angle it up.  I would want a stop at the right side edge to keep the saw from sliding.
 
My suggestion is more elaborate and only makes sense if a whole lot of beveled ripping is going to be done,  and if several angles are involved.
My picture:
Lay a book flat on a table. Turn it so that the top of the book is facing you and the spine is on your right.  Lift the front cover.
Imagine a small version of the saw sitting on the top cover.   The cover is lifted until the right side saw table accessory is horizontal.
 
Use plywood to make the two book covers.  Use a full size piano hinge as the book spine.   There are holes in each corner of the saw base.
Fix the saw base to the top piece of plywood.  As heavy as the saw is, I think two pieces of 1/2" ply will be needed.  The bottom needs to be wider than the top - enough beyond the hinge the the whole assembly does not flip sideways.
The threaded rod and nut are not needed actually.  A block of wood, square even will hold the top cover at the angle.  A way to fix it in place would probably be a good idea.  
 

If the object is to be able to get a precise and reproducible  saw tilt and this will be done frequently with multiple possible angles being cut:
 
Fix the machine to a two plywood sheet base.
Lower is a 1/2" - 3/4"  sheet.  width 3" or more wider than saw base on each side.
Upper is  1/4" sheet
The right edge of upper sheet is at the right side of the saw base.
The upper sheet is attached to the lower using a full size piano hinge.
The left side is as far beyond the base of the saw as is needed to fix a a threaded rod and thumb screw or wingnut to raise that edge.
There would probably need to be spacer pieces at the hinge and outer edges of the upper sheet that are a tad thicker than the thumb screw/wingnut.
 
Someone really OCD could fix the angle gauge from a adjustable miter -  or a stick with marks  at the front right at the hinge.
 
The down side is that it adds weight to an already hefty machine.
A 1" rubber stopper fixed under each corner of the base will provide space for fingers to lift the machine, if it just rents bench space and lives on a shelf.

I have every issue up until they went bankrupt.  I reacted poorly to the "You are SOL" letter, and did not subscribe to the follow on version.  It is a big hole in my library and it rankles that those issues are missing. 
But, they seem to be more steel than sail and the content very shallow.  But boy howdy!  The early editions were like going from a 25 Watt bulb to full sun as far as sail modeling possibilities.  Then the NRJ had some editors who were determined to get a lot of rare and obscure or hard to get original information available to us.  What with the addition of Conway books, it was a wonderful age.

Bob,
I remember reading a negative review of the Franklin (Titebond) Liquid Hide Glue here.  A different product Old Brown Glue got higher marks.  A problem with a premixed hide glue is the relatively high water concentration.  I used the Franklin product as a temporary bonding agent, but it did not do what I wished.  It was mostly because of the way I applied it.  I was too through with the application.  It held too well.  Spot application probably would have held. I totally covered both surfaces with a thin layer - the same as I do with PVA.  A wicking spacer of newspaper to allow the ethanol debonder to penetrate the frame thickness probably would have helped. 
 
Charles,
Hot hide glue is probably the wise choice for an archival case.  
 
PVA is very acidic.  I think it is a strong acetic acid solution.  The acid concentration is higher in the water resistant bond product.  It is high still in the waterproof bond product. 
The agent forming the bond is poly vinyl acetate.  When the polymer bond forms, acetic acid is released. As the water evaporates, liquid acetic acid is left behind.  It has a degree of volatility at room temp, it is just much less than water.  The polymerization reaction probably continues over time - possibly years.  That is probably part of the source of its continuous outgassing of acetic acid.  I think this means that the bond gets marginally stronger over time but it also probably becomes more rigid as the degree of crosslinking increases.   This means that a properly made ship model case needs adequate ventilation to evacuate the acetic acid gas as well keeping it from becoming an oven.  It also means that castings with any lead content are doomed with a PVA bonded model.

You could check The Wood Database.  The factor that is pertinent is: shrinkage.   Ambient air changes in moisture content are probably only a small fraction of what the moisture concentration would need to be to match what green wood would have to be.  For the most part, change in length is too small to be significant.  A house framing involves intermittent timbers with nothing to push against. Any plywood or OSB sheathing has any length or width changes subject to being cancelled out because of the alternate orientation of layers.  The thickness does probably change with the environment.
 
As for planking in a model, I am thinking that planking size changes would be subject to some restraint if any tangential increase due to increased moisture was met by a resistance force that was greater than the force that internal water can exert.  Side by side planks pushing against each other may keep a limit on how much water could enter.  It may not move as a unit.  In POF, the frames that the planks are bonded to  are longitudinal to the direction that the planks "want" to move.  This would resist any movement.  Edge glue between planks may be subject to being squeezing, but a tight bond would have very little glue to be squeezed.  
 
It was a material used well before my time, but would hot pot hide glue not be an even more archival favorable bonding material than even PVA?  I suspect that it is way more trouble to use than any advantages it would offer.  It is easily reversible by exposing the bond to hot ethanol.  The protein that forms the bond is it not dissolved.  It is completely denatured, forming small balls that are easily removed.
 
I consider CA to be a completely no go material because along with its chemically toxic vapor, questionable half life, and weakness at resisting sheer forces - in my very limited experience with it,  I found that once opened, a bottle quickly dried out.
 
I am also somewhat dismayed by the apparent popularity and enthusiasm for wipe-on poly.  To my eye, it is too plastic looking as well as tending to produce a layer that is too thick.

I recently have recently ordered and received the second and final Speedwell volume.  This completes my acquisition of the available inventory of stick and string at Sea Watch Books.
The apparent aversion to email conformation and hand holding is idiosyncratic and anxiety producing but they have always been reliable and customer friendly when it counts.
 
My reading of the tea leaves tells me that if a modeler has any volumes sold by Sea Watch on a wish list  or maybe list,  they might oughta consider ordering them soon.
 
But, of late when it comes to Pen and Sword and getting an order across the Atlantic,  I intend to use Amazon instead of ordering direct.  In addition, they need to find someone as obcessed as John Gardiner was to head up the Conway division instead of letting it languish.

Yup!   I can't spell for beans.  I was taught look/see method - no system, memorize each word separately.  As it is, I can spell in German better than I can in English.  They seem to have a rigid system for how their words are spelled.  English seems to accumulate words from every other language in the planet and keep their spelling of it too.  My word sort of sounds like an infectious condition.  Using Southern and country pronunciation does not help either.   One of the really annoying things here is while it tells you when it thinks a word is misspelled - it does not tell you what its correct spelling should be.    I have  to use Google to find the correct spelling and my hick pronunciation is so far off that it takes several tries.   I say the word: pro-noun-see-ation    and height  =  heigth    It would also be nice if it would stop saying that words like futtock was a misspelling, though.
 
I have read nothing about this, but so much of the Conway content involved John Gardiner, he seems to have been the driving force there.  He seems to have poured his heart and soul into it.  I think he deserves the equivalent of a statue.  This field seems to dried up a bit with his departure.

And I'm the dyslexic one! Like you, I rely on Dr Google.
 
I live 10 miles from Sea Watches office. If I could afford to buy what I'd like from their extensive catalogue, I wonder how long the post would take?
 
Happy New year to everyone.

T bought a Harbor Freight one drum tumbler some time ago.  With the $20 off coupon it was economical.  Still in its box and stored on a shelf.  I have it in mind to find a way to add a dowel thru the central axis and that does not turn and has four flaps of sand paper.  It would be fixed flappers and moving perimeter,  My usual armchair experiment mode has me wondering just vertical or near vertical flappers should be the thing.  The end sections would need trauma to fit the dowel.  I wonder if something like an empty can of Dole's not from concentrate Pineapple juice would fit as a drum?  (The from concentrate stuff is vile.) 

Yup!   I can't spell for beans.  I was taught look/see method - no system, memorize each word separately.  As it is, I can spell in German better than I can in English.  They seem to have a rigid system for how their words are spelled.  English seems to accumulate words from every other language in the planet and keep their spelling of it too.  My word sort of sounds like an infectious condition.  Using Southern and country pronunciation does not help either.   One of the really annoying things here is while it tells you when it thinks a word is misspelled - it does not tell you what its correct spelling should be.    I have  to use Google to find the correct spelling and my hick pronunciation is so far off that it takes several tries.   I say the word: pro-noun-see-ation    and height  =  heigth    It would also be nice if it would stop saying that words like futtock was a misspelling, though.
 
I have read nothing about this, but so much of the Conway content involved John Gardiner, he seems to have been the driving force there.  He seems to have poured his heart and soul into it.  I think he deserves the equivalent of a statue.  This field seems to dried up a bit with his departure.

I recently have recently ordered and received the second and final Speedwell volume.  This completes my acquisition of the available inventory of stick and string at Sea Watch Books.
The apparent aversion to email conformation and hand holding is idiosyncratic and anxiety producing but they have always been reliable and customer friendly when it counts.
 
My reading of the tea leaves tells me that if a modeler has any volumes sold by Sea Watch on a wish list  or maybe list,  they might oughta consider ordering them soon.
 
But, of late when it comes to Pen and Sword and getting an order across the Atlantic,  I intend to use Amazon instead of ordering direct.  In addition, they need to find someone as obcessed as John Gardiner was to head up the Conway division instead of letting it languish.

As a geologist i have access to a few rock tumblers, some of them are massive. The medium is really what does the rounding as the rock moves around in the tumbler. The important thing here is that your medium needs to be harder than the material you are cutting, the harder the material the rougher the cut. For instance quartz is a hard mineral that makes up most sand in the world, using quartz will provide a quicker and rougher cut than something like aluminum oxide which will provide a polish of sorts on your rocks (or wood). 
 
A rock tumbler is meant to reproduce the natural process of erosion, by knocking the wood or rock against the medium over and over and over. Because of this it takes a long time to see nice results. As I have never put wood in a rock tumbler I cant tell you what the effects might be but If you wanted to shape and rough up wood for blocks and dead eyes I would recommend a rough medium (silicon carbide) to cut away material for a few weeks, followed by a finer medium (aluminum oxide) to provide a pre polish of the wood. The down side of a tumbler is the only shape they can produce is spherical. what ever you leave in there will eventually become a sphere. Last point, remember to change your medium often, maybe once or twice a week but i would check your tumbler everyday to make sure nothing is coming loose. 
 
In terms of model ship building there are probably much easier ways to make blocks and dead eyes than a rock tumbler, though it is a nice idea!
 
Bradley 

I recently have recently ordered and received the second and final Speedwell volume.  This completes my acquisition of the available inventory of stick and string at Sea Watch Books.
The apparent aversion to email conformation and hand holding is idiosyncratic and anxiety producing but they have always been reliable and customer friendly when it counts.
 
My reading of the tea leaves tells me that if a modeler has any volumes sold by Sea Watch on a wish list  or maybe list,  they might oughta consider ordering them soon.
 
But, of late when it comes to Pen and Sword and getting an order across the Atlantic,  I intend to use Amazon instead of ordering direct.  In addition, they need to find someone as obcessed as John Gardiner was to head up the Conway division instead of letting it languish.

I recently have recently ordered and received the second and final Speedwell volume.  This completes my acquisition of the available inventory of stick and string at Sea Watch Books.
The apparent aversion to email conformation and hand holding is idiosyncratic and anxiety producing but they have always been reliable and customer friendly when it counts.
 
My reading of the tea leaves tells me that if a modeler has any volumes sold by Sea Watch on a wish list  or maybe list,  they might oughta consider ordering them soon.
 
But, of late when it comes to Pen and Sword and getting an order across the Atlantic,  I intend to use Amazon instead of ordering direct.  In addition, they need to find someone as obcessed as John Gardiner was to head up the Conway division instead of letting it languish.

T bought a Harbor Freight one drum tumbler some time ago.  With the $20 off coupon it was economical.  Still in its box and stored on a shelf.  I have it in mind to find a way to add a dowel thru the central axis and that does not turn and has four flaps of sand paper.  It would be fixed flappers and moving perimeter,  My usual armchair experiment mode has me wondering just vertical or near vertical flappers should be the thing.  The end sections would need trauma to fit the dowel.  I wonder if something like an empty can of Dole's not from concentrate Pineapple juice would fit as a drum?  (The from concentrate stuff is vile.) 

T bought a Harbor Freight one drum tumbler some time ago.  With the $20 off coupon it was economical.  Still in its box and stored on a shelf.  I have it in mind to find a way to add a dowel thru the central axis and that does not turn and has four flaps of sand paper.  It would be fixed flappers and moving perimeter,  My usual armchair experiment mode has me wondering just vertical or near vertical flappers should be the thing.  The end sections would need trauma to fit the dowel.  I wonder if something like an empty can of Dole's not from concentrate Pineapple juice would fit as a drum?  (The from concentrate stuff is vile.) 

T bought a Harbor Freight one drum tumbler some time ago.  With the $20 off coupon it was economical.  Still in its box and stored on a shelf.  I have it in mind to find a way to add a dowel thru the central axis and that does not turn and has four flaps of sand paper.  It would be fixed flappers and moving perimeter,  My usual armchair experiment mode has me wondering just vertical or near vertical flappers should be the thing.  The end sections would need trauma to fit the dowel.  I wonder if something like an empty can of Dole's not from concentrate Pineapple juice would fit as a drum?  (The from concentrate stuff is vile.) 

As far as Underhill, Davis, Petrejus, Longridge, Frolich are concerned as regards POB,  the great danger is that you will be seduced over to the dark side = scratch building. 
But once POB reaches a first layer being planked stage,  everything from there on - the actual hull planking, decks, furniture, etc - it is all the same irrespective of what the underlying hull structure is.
The goal of books that focus on scratch building is excellence and historical accuracy.  It is better to learn from the best.  I am pretty sure that the build logs here in the POB kit forum have in total way more useful instruction than can be found in books that focus on POB.   Why I think this is inherent in how and why POB books come to be, is probably best left not expressed.