Jaager

Two different types of adhesive is Gorilla Glue  and Gorilla Wood Glue.
 
Gorilla Wood is just another brand of yellow carpenters PVA.
 
Gorilla Glue  is a brand of polyurethane glue.   Like CA it is water activated.  But unlike CA, exposure to water causes it to triple its volume.  I guess in applications where having a waterproof bond is important and the joinery is so Jack leg that a joint filling glue is a good thing, this is a useful material.  For a ship model, the joinery should be so tight that any expanding glue would be a disaster.
 
I would imagine that the parent Corporation for Gorilla now wishes that the marketing department had done a better job in  naming their first product.  With no type of glue differentiation in its name, there is now confusion with other products in their line.

Two different types of adhesive is Gorilla Glue  and Gorilla Wood Glue.
 
Gorilla Wood is just another brand of yellow carpenters PVA.
 
Gorilla Glue  is a brand of polyurethane glue.   Like CA it is water activated.  But unlike CA, exposure to water causes it to triple its volume.  I guess in applications where having a waterproof bond is important and the joinery is so Jack leg that a joint filling glue is a good thing, this is a useful material.  For a ship model, the joinery should be so tight that any expanding glue would be a disaster.
 
I would imagine that the parent Corporation for Gorilla now wishes that the marketing department had done a better job in  naming their first product.  With no type of glue differentiation in its name, there is now confusion with other products in their line.

Two different types of adhesive is Gorilla Glue  and Gorilla Wood Glue.
 
Gorilla Wood is just another brand of yellow carpenters PVA.
 
Gorilla Glue  is a brand of polyurethane glue.   Like CA it is water activated.  But unlike CA, exposure to water causes it to triple its volume.  I guess in applications where having a waterproof bond is important and the joinery is so Jack leg that a joint filling glue is a good thing, this is a useful material.  For a ship model, the joinery should be so tight that any expanding glue would be a disaster.
 
I would imagine that the parent Corporation for Gorilla now wishes that the marketing department had done a better job in  naming their first product.  With no type of glue differentiation in its name, there is now confusion with other products in their line.

Silverman,
That planking technique is unique or seems to be.  The illustration clarifies the what and how.  This craft may well be a "missing link" in the transition from shell first to frame first.  
I wonder if that particular planking joinery may have left something to be desired as far as stability and reliability?  The result of that experiment being the reason it was where it could be found far in its future instead of joining the fate of its fellows? 
I can see how for everyday full size projects, Fir vs Oak is a choice to consider.  In the scale model world, I recommend forgetting that Oak even exists.
Oak is hard, but it is also pug ugly at most any model scale.  It may be useful for totally hidden structures.  But a negative factor for even this is that in some species of Oak, the fibers, being coarse, do not hold together at shape edges and the way out of scale pores could be at the edges and leave dips.  They are awful enough on the surface.
One of my preferred species of wood is a Maple that is fractionally harder than White Oak.  It is no problem as long as tools are sharp, motors are powerful, and for bulling away a bulk of it - 60 or 80 grit sandpaper.  I find that the resistance to being able to easily overdo its removal to be a plus.
All the more power to you, but the fuzzy nature of a true Fir would have me wanting to act out in frustration.  I find this is much more fun when the species of wood being used works with me, and rewards me in how it looks when replicating something its miniature in scale.

Chuck,
I completely agree about the three carvel strakes and then clinker possibility.  
It is this interpretation  that I am having a question about.   The same plank going from carvel to clinker along its length?  I can only see it as being one or the other.  If I am right, it saves a lot of work.
 
There are a couple of clinker projects that are active now.  When I looked up a question on the strake lap transition at the bow and stern rabbets, in a modern text,  (John Leather)  I also checked how the fittings were done.  Were there spikes that just went thru the plank overlap and were clinched on the lower strake's inside face?  It looks like the spikes were only at the frames and went thru the two planks and also the frame and was clinched on the inside face of the frame.  Were there any spikes that went thru one plank and then thru the frame?  No.  It appears that it was only at the overlap.  
 
My problem with the garboard description was because I have never seen any reference to a garboard having fittings at the rabbet at the keel and thru the plank into the keel.  My question is, why mention the absence of something that was not done in most any situation anyway? 
 
Thinking about why this would be the situation:
That seam is the most troublesome of all of them.  It is at the place  where two different planes meet, with different dimensional flexing,  I would guess that spikes could impair garboard reactive movement.  The stress could generate a split along the row of spike holes and turn the garboard from one board into two boards producing a fatal leak.  This happening when the sea was particularly lively.   I recall an illustration a ship suspended between two oncoming waves.  One was holding up the bow and one was holding up the stern, with the middle hanging in the air.  I believe it was about hogging and what could cause it.  
 
 
 

Two different types of adhesive is Gorilla Glue  and Gorilla Wood Glue.
 
Gorilla Wood is just another brand of yellow carpenters PVA.
 
Gorilla Glue  is a brand of polyurethane glue.   Like CA it is water activated.  But unlike CA, exposure to water causes it to triple its volume.  I guess in applications where having a waterproof bond is important and the joinery is so Jack leg that a joint filling glue is a good thing, this is a useful material.  For a ship model, the joinery should be so tight that any expanding glue would be a disaster.
 
I would imagine that the parent Corporation for Gorilla now wishes that the marketing department had done a better job in  naming their first product.  With no type of glue differentiation in its name, there is now confusion with other products in their line.

Silverman,
That planking technique is unique or seems to be.  The illustration clarifies the what and how.  This craft may well be a "missing link" in the transition from shell first to frame first.  
I wonder if that particular planking joinery may have left something to be desired as far as stability and reliability?  The result of that experiment being the reason it was where it could be found far in its future instead of joining the fate of its fellows? 
I can see how for everyday full size projects, Fir vs Oak is a choice to consider.  In the scale model world, I recommend forgetting that Oak even exists.
Oak is hard, but it is also pug ugly at most any model scale.  It may be useful for totally hidden structures.  But a negative factor for even this is that in some species of Oak, the fibers, being coarse, do not hold together at shape edges and the way out of scale pores could be at the edges and leave dips.  They are awful enough on the surface.
One of my preferred species of wood is a Maple that is fractionally harder than White Oak.  It is no problem as long as tools are sharp, motors are powerful, and for bulling away a bulk of it - 60 or 80 grit sandpaper.  I find that the resistance to being able to easily overdo its removal to be a plus.
All the more power to you, but the fuzzy nature of a true Fir would have me wanting to act out in frustration.  I find this is much more fun when the species of wood being used works with me, and rewards me in how it looks when replicating something its miniature in scale.

I'd tend to think it wouldn't work because, even if you ground up the hardened paint very finely, you'd have a bunch of dried binder mixed in with the pigment and when you tried to reconstitute that,  you'd run into problems. Once an oil binder polymerizes, or an acrylic binder cures, I don't think that process can be reversed.

The description in the thesis is clear as mud to me.  It does not read as though it was written by someone who understands hull construction.
You could correspond with him and further define just what he means by:
"lay flush"  
"were not fastened to one another" - as opposed to?
"stakes overlapped"  a picture of what exactly he means
"the central......garboard....not connected to it."   apart from Med very ancient blind mortise and tenon plank to plank - the attachment is plank to internal structure - the between is for waterproofing material
"the bottom and bilge strakes..."   is he describing carvel planking where the planks would grind in a beach?  There was a time of transition from clinker to carvel - but I imagined it was between strakes and not within one.  The hull having a carvel planked bottom and lapstrake sides up to the rail. 
 
About the plug.   The trick is to fix each plank to its final curve before it is attached.  Pre-bent as it were.  This way, they stay were you fixed them.
 
Plank bending 101
The lignin that holds wood fibers together is not soluble in water. 
Heat loosens its bond and allows for bending while hot and staying in its new position when back to room temp.
Steam transfers heat better than dry air . Wetting wood before bending is to provide steam.  The time of immersion need not be long.
Different species of wood have very different reactions to being bent.  Some are pliable and some would rather break.
Lignin is soluble in ammonia.   But it is the anhydrous ammonia that was used for commercial refrigeration and is liable to explode.  The active part of cleaning ammonia solution as far as bending is the water that it is in.  The ammonia there just ruins the surface of the wood and makes it an ugly color.
There are many ways to provide the heat.  The trick is to choose a way the does not cook you in the process.  Does not char the wood.  Does not dent the wood while bending it.
 
Your homemade draw plate = 
to cut/shave the wood,  hard steel = good. 
stoning and honing a crisp cutting edge at the hole and holding it  hard steel = good
drilling the hole to begin with  hard steel = not so easy
 
For draw plate trunnels - bamboo is pretty much it  getting something to draw from wood is too much work and too much is wasted.
For short - just for show trunnels  you can find examples here of   steel medical needles --  tip ground to be like a lab cork borer -  drill press - stock is a block of wood and boring it on an end grain face.   
If you drill thru the block, the trunnel is longer, but stays in the bore.  I do not know if boring the next open will push the earlier one up the bore of the needle or just stop the process.  If it moves on up, I guess the quill center could fill with trunnels.  If it does not move, pulling the needle , and ramming the trunnel out for each one would get tedious real fast.  
The other way is to bore part way and when as many as can be got are bored, the distant end is cut off at the intersection at the depth of cut.

Chuck,
I completely agree about the three carvel strakes and then clinker possibility.  
It is this interpretation  that I am having a question about.   The same plank going from carvel to clinker along its length?  I can only see it as being one or the other.  If I am right, it saves a lot of work.
 
There are a couple of clinker projects that are active now.  When I looked up a question on the strake lap transition at the bow and stern rabbets, in a modern text,  (John Leather)  I also checked how the fittings were done.  Were there spikes that just went thru the plank overlap and were clinched on the lower strake's inside face?  It looks like the spikes were only at the frames and went thru the two planks and also the frame and was clinched on the inside face of the frame.  Were there any spikes that went thru one plank and then thru the frame?  No.  It appears that it was only at the overlap.  
 
My problem with the garboard description was because I have never seen any reference to a garboard having fittings at the rabbet at the keel and thru the plank into the keel.  My question is, why mention the absence of something that was not done in most any situation anyway? 
 
Thinking about why this would be the situation:
That seam is the most troublesome of all of them.  It is at the place  where two different planes meet, with different dimensional flexing,  I would guess that spikes could impair garboard reactive movement.  The stress could generate a split along the row of spike holes and turn the garboard from one board into two boards producing a fatal leak.  This happening when the sea was particularly lively.   I recall an illustration a ship suspended between two oncoming waves.  One was holding up the bow and one was holding up the stern, with the middle hanging in the air.  I believe it was about hogging and what could cause it.  
 
 
 

Mike,
I am without doubt obsessed with the method and this vessel is far more recent than my eras of focus.  If your plans include a complete Body plan with delineation of each of the stations shown above, The Station Sandwich Method would get you a hull. 
How I would approach it =
I would use clear Pine sliced from framing 2x4.  No thicker than 1/4" ,  but it is easier and less open to mistakes if the sum of the thicknesses is an exact match to the distance between each station.
The interior of the hull is not of much interest so a solid hull is possible.  I would still make it somewhat hollow.   The moulded dimension would be enough to encompass any bevel that is between each pair of station lines.  I would not shape the inside.  It would be horizontal above the floor and vertical at the sides.  It saves on lofting time.
Rather than cutting each of the layers as a single piece,  I would use a rough version of wooden ship framing.  Do it at the first step as  a pair of layers with overlapping butts. 
One of the pair would be three timbers - a full "floor" and a "2nd futtock" on each side that extended to the deck.
The other would be four pieces -  two "1st futtock"s  that butt at the centerline and go beyond the floor/2nd futt join.  And two "3rd futtock"s that extend to the deck.
The smaller pieces are easier to scroll cut.  there will be no cross grain.  The butt line of the "1st futt" provide an easy way to locate where the keel is.
The  lofting process can be done easily using a drawing program.  The plans provide the precise outside shape.  Connect the dot straight lines define the inside shape.
Each piece has a pattern rubber cemented to it.  When the layers between two stations are all glued together, the pattern is left on the "frame" at each end.   Because of the locators. the patterns on each end are in precise alignment.  The bevel will be correct.
 
Locator points and the lofting of them:
On a wooden hull sailing ship, where the inside shape is important and relatively narrow,  a perpendicular locator to position two frames, much less the series of them between two stations,  will not go thru the actual body of more than one frame.  This starts to happen when you get much beyond the middle of a ship.  I solved this by placing my locators outside the actual frame.  It makes for extra wood for each timber and for more wood to remove when getting the final shape for each frame sandwich assembly.
This is not a factor with your hull. The thickness of each frame sandwich would be wide enough that an inside perpendicular would work as a locator.
You would need 3 sets of locators.
1 - to align the timbers of each pair.
2 - to align each of the pairs into the sandwich of layers between two stations
3 - to mate the two sandwiches that meet at each station.
For  #1  I would use  the 1.75" long steel quilters pins  they are #73 wire gauge and #70 hole is close without being difficult to remove after the glue has set.
For #2 and #3  I would use off the shelf bamboo skewers.  Measure the gauge and buy a few bits that are close enough not to wobble, are a push fit,  but no not need a hammer.
Glue in the bamboo.
 
The assembly method would be 
scroll cut the timbers  -  no need to get too close to the pattern line -   A good hand fretsaw would get your there,  a scroll saw if you have one,  I use an 1/8" blade with a Carter Stabilizer on a 9" benchtop bandsaw.
Join and glue up the "frame" pairs. 
Assemble and glue up all of the pairs in a station sandwich.
Using a sanding drum, shape the near outside shape and do the bevel for the sandwich.
Join pairs of sandwiches and fine tune the transition by sanding.
Starting from the middle and going to each end,  join the pairs of sandwiches to the whole and fare those transitions.
The bow and stern build and shaping are a different challenge.  I would use a buttock dimension series of layers there.
 
Pine is relatively inexpensive and readily available.  It is easy to work.
Worse comes to worst, the hull can be the subject of a serious sealing and undercoating.  With a good final coat of paint, it should look metal.  If you wish the metal plates to be hinted at, rectangles of paper can be glued to the hull before sealing.  Things like bilge keels - parts needing to be glued to the hull - mask the glue area before sealing.
 
Anyway,  here is an alternate method that breaks the hull shaping process into smaller and more manageable sub assemblies.    
 
 
 

It sounds to me like he is describing carvel planked (flush) and clinker/lapstrake (overlap).  The first three strakes (garboard, broad and #3) were carvel and the rest clinker.  The sources I have read do indicate that in estuaries and such, the cog could/would settle onto the river bottom.  The flush planking would facilitate that.
 
'The garboard strake lays flush to the keel and were not connected to it'.  Might that mean 'not physically nailed or bolted to the keel, but fitted into a rabbet'?
 
I know with viking longships and I believe with cogs, the floor frames were attached to the keel and the lower strakes attached to the floor.  After that (in this case strake #4 and above) were attached to the strake below it clinker style and only after the shell was complete were the first and second futtocks added.

The description in the thesis is clear as mud to me.  It does not read as though it was written by someone who understands hull construction.
You could correspond with him and further define just what he means by:
"lay flush"  
"were not fastened to one another" - as opposed to?
"stakes overlapped"  a picture of what exactly he means
"the central......garboard....not connected to it."   apart from Med very ancient blind mortise and tenon plank to plank - the attachment is plank to internal structure - the between is for waterproofing material
"the bottom and bilge strakes..."   is he describing carvel planking where the planks would grind in a beach?  There was a time of transition from clinker to carvel - but I imagined it was between strakes and not within one.  The hull having a carvel planked bottom and lapstrake sides up to the rail. 
 
About the plug.   The trick is to fix each plank to its final curve before it is attached.  Pre-bent as it were.  This way, they stay were you fixed them.
 
Plank bending 101
The lignin that holds wood fibers together is not soluble in water. 
Heat loosens its bond and allows for bending while hot and staying in its new position when back to room temp.
Steam transfers heat better than dry air . Wetting wood before bending is to provide steam.  The time of immersion need not be long.
Different species of wood have very different reactions to being bent.  Some are pliable and some would rather break.
Lignin is soluble in ammonia.   But it is the anhydrous ammonia that was used for commercial refrigeration and is liable to explode.  The active part of cleaning ammonia solution as far as bending is the water that it is in.  The ammonia there just ruins the surface of the wood and makes it an ugly color.
There are many ways to provide the heat.  The trick is to choose a way the does not cook you in the process.  Does not char the wood.  Does not dent the wood while bending it.
 
Your homemade draw plate = 
to cut/shave the wood,  hard steel = good. 
stoning and honing a crisp cutting edge at the hole and holding it  hard steel = good
drilling the hole to begin with  hard steel = not so easy
 
For draw plate trunnels - bamboo is pretty much it  getting something to draw from wood is too much work and too much is wasted.
For short - just for show trunnels  you can find examples here of   steel medical needles --  tip ground to be like a lab cork borer -  drill press - stock is a block of wood and boring it on an end grain face.   
If you drill thru the block, the trunnel is longer, but stays in the bore.  I do not know if boring the next open will push the earlier one up the bore of the needle or just stop the process.  If it moves on up, I guess the quill center could fill with trunnels.  If it does not move, pulling the needle , and ramming the trunnel out for each one would get tedious real fast.  
The other way is to bore part way and when as many as can be got are bored, the distant end is cut off at the intersection at the depth of cut.

Silverman,
 
Three thoughts:
 
Your choice of wood:  Fir (the English seem to interchange Fir as a name for what is Pine here, but regardless, similar characteristics for this use.)
Using a softwood species for frames, planks, beams, chocks, ...   you are making this a more difficult, frustrating, less elegant process than it could be.
Guys a lot closer to you than to me, seem to have ready access to all the Pear they need.   You would probably really like how it looks and works a lot more than Fir.
If you want a lighter color,  there is Maple - in your case -  Common Name(s): Sycamore maple, European sycamore  Scientific Name: Acer pseudoplatanus
 
The planking -  The usual nature of lapstrake/clinker planking  is flush - in a gradual transition - only at the ends.  Are you certain that the middle is flush?
 
Frame first -  Have you considered making a plug/inside the planking mould?  Planking over that?  Adding the frames to the inside of the hull?
 
I will be subjected to stoning,  but if a Byrnes draw plate costs more than is in your comfort zone ( I own one, so it is not about quality)  drill gauges can do the job.
Here, wire gauge drills,  there are two   necessary  #80 to #61   and # 60 to ~1/4" not sure - but only the #50's really matter.
Bamboo skewers can make strong trunnels.  The species of Bamboo used can make a big difference in how easy it goes. 
hard strong holds together needs a lot of force
hard brittle fights you all the way low vield
soft holds together peels off with less work - do not hammer -push
soft splits easily crushes  not worth the effort
This may require visiting different vendors  -  if you have a local independent Chinese grocery store - there may be several types available as well as Bamboo chopsticks
Gripping the bloody things - to pull them thru - without crushing - a constant challenge.
 

John,
 
I have zero experience acrylic paint, but I think there are two major classes of color coatings:  paint and washes.
A wash - pigment in a solvent.  The wash applied, the solvent evaporates, the pigment just sits on the surface.  A dried up can of wash just needs more solvent to reconstitute it.
An applied pigment has nothing to hold it on the surface if exposed to external forces - rain,  splash, abrassion,...
A paint is pigment, a binder, and a solvent.   Paint applied,  the solvent evaporates,  the binder undergoes a chemical reaction as exposure to Oxygen increases.  A larger, more complex polymer is formed.  It sticks to the surface and keeps the pigment in place.
 
 
I think that dried acrylic has a different chemistry.  You may be able to mechanically shatter the plastic of the polymerized binder, but it will not work as a binder when this new gemisch is applied as a paint, even if you can make the mess into small enough bits to suspend in the solvent.  It is now a wash.
 
Another factor,  pigments have interesting chemical names,  cadmium, titanium,  heavy metal type elements.  Not really healthy to breathe.  Thinking about it, it probably a good idea to wear a mask or work in a hood when sanding dried paint.
 
If you are paid a reasonable wage,  the time spent recovering the dried mess,  even if it were not a fruitless exercise, is likely more costly than new paint.

I just got an email.   It was the Covid shutdown.
 
The message:
GOOD NEWS! The city-ordered shut-down is over. We are able to get back to printing and binding our book orders. When the city shut us down as a non-essential business in the Covid 19 Pandemic we had just begun to outfit our new space with updated machinery and work spaces. That came to a sudden halt and we were forced to rely on our kitchen counter to produce our boat building and design booklets. These conditions are obviously ;not practical for printing and binding hard-cover books. However, at the end of July we were able to re-enter the space and yesterday we started up the book production side of our business once again. It will take a little while to get up to speed but we are now producing books to fulfill the backlog that has resulted from the closure.

We are happy to confirm that your order will be completed in the order in which it was received. Many thanks indeed for your patience and understanding.
 
Now, I have to see if I can do a re-order since I got a refund from PayPal.   A charge back from a credit card company is costly for a vendor and it tends to ....annoy... them.

Hello, Yankee Virginian.  I had an apartment at Telegraph Hill, when I was USPHS stationed at St, E's 
 
A large clipper is a steep slope to climb.  The composite iron and wood - very late sailing era clippers - add another layer of complexity in the masting and rigging over the earlier types:  iron spars, wire standing rigging, chain involved with running rigging.
It would probably serve you to read this post =  For Beginners -- A Cautionary Tale   
it is just above this post in this forum.

The description in the thesis is clear as mud to me.  It does not read as though it was written by someone who understands hull construction.
You could correspond with him and further define just what he means by:
"lay flush"  
"were not fastened to one another" - as opposed to?
"stakes overlapped"  a picture of what exactly he means
"the central......garboard....not connected to it."   apart from Med very ancient blind mortise and tenon plank to plank - the attachment is plank to internal structure - the between is for waterproofing material
"the bottom and bilge strakes..."   is he describing carvel planking where the planks would grind in a beach?  There was a time of transition from clinker to carvel - but I imagined it was between strakes and not within one.  The hull having a carvel planked bottom and lapstrake sides up to the rail. 
 
About the plug.   The trick is to fix each plank to its final curve before it is attached.  Pre-bent as it were.  This way, they stay were you fixed them.
 
Plank bending 101
The lignin that holds wood fibers together is not soluble in water. 
Heat loosens its bond and allows for bending while hot and staying in its new position when back to room temp.
Steam transfers heat better than dry air . Wetting wood before bending is to provide steam.  The time of immersion need not be long.
Different species of wood have very different reactions to being bent.  Some are pliable and some would rather break.
Lignin is soluble in ammonia.   But it is the anhydrous ammonia that was used for commercial refrigeration and is liable to explode.  The active part of cleaning ammonia solution as far as bending is the water that it is in.  The ammonia there just ruins the surface of the wood and makes it an ugly color.
There are many ways to provide the heat.  The trick is to choose a way the does not cook you in the process.  Does not char the wood.  Does not dent the wood while bending it.
 
Your homemade draw plate = 
to cut/shave the wood,  hard steel = good. 
stoning and honing a crisp cutting edge at the hole and holding it  hard steel = good
drilling the hole to begin with  hard steel = not so easy
 
For draw plate trunnels - bamboo is pretty much it  getting something to draw from wood is too much work and too much is wasted.
For short - just for show trunnels  you can find examples here of   steel medical needles --  tip ground to be like a lab cork borer -  drill press - stock is a block of wood and boring it on an end grain face.   
If you drill thru the block, the trunnel is longer, but stays in the bore.  I do not know if boring the next open will push the earlier one up the bore of the needle or just stop the process.  If it moves on up, I guess the quill center could fill with trunnels.  If it does not move, pulling the needle , and ramming the trunnel out for each one would get tedious real fast.  
The other way is to bore part way and when as many as can be got are bored, the distant end is cut off at the intersection at the depth of cut.

Silverman,
 
Three thoughts:
 
Your choice of wood:  Fir (the English seem to interchange Fir as a name for what is Pine here, but regardless, similar characteristics for this use.)
Using a softwood species for frames, planks, beams, chocks, ...   you are making this a more difficult, frustrating, less elegant process than it could be.
Guys a lot closer to you than to me, seem to have ready access to all the Pear they need.   You would probably really like how it looks and works a lot more than Fir.
If you want a lighter color,  there is Maple - in your case -  Common Name(s): Sycamore maple, European sycamore  Scientific Name: Acer pseudoplatanus
 
The planking -  The usual nature of lapstrake/clinker planking  is flush - in a gradual transition - only at the ends.  Are you certain that the middle is flush?
 
Frame first -  Have you considered making a plug/inside the planking mould?  Planking over that?  Adding the frames to the inside of the hull?
 
I will be subjected to stoning,  but if a Byrnes draw plate costs more than is in your comfort zone ( I own one, so it is not about quality)  drill gauges can do the job.
Here, wire gauge drills,  there are two   necessary  #80 to #61   and # 60 to ~1/4" not sure - but only the #50's really matter.
Bamboo skewers can make strong trunnels.  The species of Bamboo used can make a big difference in how easy it goes. 
hard strong holds together needs a lot of force
hard brittle fights you all the way low vield
soft holds together peels off with less work - do not hammer -push
soft splits easily crushes  not worth the effort
This may require visiting different vendors  -  if you have a local independent Chinese grocery store - there may be several types available as well as Bamboo chopsticks
Gripping the bloody things - to pull them thru - without crushing - a constant challenge.
 

I just got an email.   It was the Covid shutdown.
 
The message:
GOOD NEWS! The city-ordered shut-down is over. We are able to get back to printing and binding our book orders. When the city shut us down as a non-essential business in the Covid 19 Pandemic we had just begun to outfit our new space with updated machinery and work spaces. That came to a sudden halt and we were forced to rely on our kitchen counter to produce our boat building and design booklets. These conditions are obviously ;not practical for printing and binding hard-cover books. However, at the end of July we were able to re-enter the space and yesterday we started up the book production side of our business once again. It will take a little while to get up to speed but we are now producing books to fulfill the backlog that has resulted from the closure.

We are happy to confirm that your order will be completed in the order in which it was received. Many thanks indeed for your patience and understanding.
 
Now, I have to see if I can do a re-order since I got a refund from PayPal.   A charge back from a credit card company is costly for a vendor and it tends to ....annoy... them.

Silverman,
 
Three thoughts:
 
Your choice of wood:  Fir (the English seem to interchange Fir as a name for what is Pine here, but regardless, similar characteristics for this use.)
Using a softwood species for frames, planks, beams, chocks, ...   you are making this a more difficult, frustrating, less elegant process than it could be.
Guys a lot closer to you than to me, seem to have ready access to all the Pear they need.   You would probably really like how it looks and works a lot more than Fir.
If you want a lighter color,  there is Maple - in your case -  Common Name(s): Sycamore maple, European sycamore  Scientific Name: Acer pseudoplatanus
 
The planking -  The usual nature of lapstrake/clinker planking  is flush - in a gradual transition - only at the ends.  Are you certain that the middle is flush?
 
Frame first -  Have you considered making a plug/inside the planking mould?  Planking over that?  Adding the frames to the inside of the hull?
 
I will be subjected to stoning,  but if a Byrnes draw plate costs more than is in your comfort zone ( I own one, so it is not about quality)  drill gauges can do the job.
Here, wire gauge drills,  there are two   necessary  #80 to #61   and # 60 to ~1/4" not sure - but only the #50's really matter.
Bamboo skewers can make strong trunnels.  The species of Bamboo used can make a big difference in how easy it goes. 
hard strong holds together needs a lot of force
hard brittle fights you all the way low vield
soft holds together peels off with less work - do not hammer -push
soft splits easily crushes  not worth the effort
This may require visiting different vendors  -  if you have a local independent Chinese grocery store - there may be several types available as well as Bamboo chopsticks
Gripping the bloody things - to pull them thru - without crushing - a constant challenge.
 

I just got an email.   It was the Covid shutdown.
 
The message:
GOOD NEWS! The city-ordered shut-down is over. We are able to get back to printing and binding our book orders. When the city shut us down as a non-essential business in the Covid 19 Pandemic we had just begun to outfit our new space with updated machinery and work spaces. That came to a sudden halt and we were forced to rely on our kitchen counter to produce our boat building and design booklets. These conditions are obviously ;not practical for printing and binding hard-cover books. However, at the end of July we were able to re-enter the space and yesterday we started up the book production side of our business once again. It will take a little while to get up to speed but we are now producing books to fulfill the backlog that has resulted from the closure.

We are happy to confirm that your order will be completed in the order in which it was received. Many thanks indeed for your patience and understanding.
 
Now, I have to see if I can do a re-order since I got a refund from PayPal.   A charge back from a credit card company is costly for a vendor and it tends to ....annoy... them.

John,
 
I have zero experience acrylic paint, but I think there are two major classes of color coatings:  paint and washes.
A wash - pigment in a solvent.  The wash applied, the solvent evaporates, the pigment just sits on the surface.  A dried up can of wash just needs more solvent to reconstitute it.
An applied pigment has nothing to hold it on the surface if exposed to external forces - rain,  splash, abrassion,...
A paint is pigment, a binder, and a solvent.   Paint applied,  the solvent evaporates,  the binder undergoes a chemical reaction as exposure to Oxygen increases.  A larger, more complex polymer is formed.  It sticks to the surface and keeps the pigment in place.
 
 
I think that dried acrylic has a different chemistry.  You may be able to mechanically shatter the plastic of the polymerized binder, but it will not work as a binder when this new gemisch is applied as a paint, even if you can make the mess into small enough bits to suspend in the solvent.  It is now a wash.
 
Another factor,  pigments have interesting chemical names,  cadmium, titanium,  heavy metal type elements.  Not really healthy to breathe.  Thinking about it, it probably a good idea to wear a mask or work in a hood when sanding dried paint.
 
If you are paid a reasonable wage,  the time spent recovering the dried mess,  even if it were not a fruitless exercise, is likely more costly than new paint.

John,
 
I have zero experience acrylic paint, but I think there are two major classes of color coatings:  paint and washes.
A wash - pigment in a solvent.  The wash applied, the solvent evaporates, the pigment just sits on the surface.  A dried up can of wash just needs more solvent to reconstitute it.
An applied pigment has nothing to hold it on the surface if exposed to external forces - rain,  splash, abrassion,...
A paint is pigment, a binder, and a solvent.   Paint applied,  the solvent evaporates,  the binder undergoes a chemical reaction as exposure to Oxygen increases.  A larger, more complex polymer is formed.  It sticks to the surface and keeps the pigment in place.
 
 
I think that dried acrylic has a different chemistry.  You may be able to mechanically shatter the plastic of the polymerized binder, but it will not work as a binder when this new gemisch is applied as a paint, even if you can make the mess into small enough bits to suspend in the solvent.  It is now a wash.
 
Another factor,  pigments have interesting chemical names,  cadmium, titanium,  heavy metal type elements.  Not really healthy to breathe.  Thinking about it, it probably a good idea to wear a mask or work in a hood when sanding dried paint.
 
If you are paid a reasonable wage,  the time spent recovering the dried mess,  even if it were not a fruitless exercise, is likely more costly than new paint.

A cutoff of a 2x12 makes for a good base.  Both Lowes and Home Depot, list - price not absure - HD will cut - avoid treated lumber.  The samples of Armstrong lino flooring -  maybe two layers at each bolt as a washer/ pad  vibration insurance.