Jaager

Generous thought, bad idea.
The commercial guys use kilns and fumigation and probably other methods to keep from exporting diseases and insects along with the wood.
The amateur export world has gained us Starlings, Japanese Beatles, Dutch Elm disease, Fire Ants, to name a few.  If your guys are still sloppy about what comes in,
I would not bet on their being any more careful about what goes out.  The wood that you offer is from wide spread agricultural species.  If you have something indigenous that is 
kept in check by your eco system,  letting it out in this way could lead to a real disaster.  This is a realm best left to professionals. 

Generous thought, bad idea.
The commercial guys use kilns and fumigation and probably other methods to keep from exporting diseases and insects along with the wood.
The amateur export world has gained us Starlings, Japanese Beatles, Dutch Elm disease, Fire Ants, to name a few.  If your guys are still sloppy about what comes in,
I would not bet on their being any more careful about what goes out.  The wood that you offer is from wide spread agricultural species.  If you have something indigenous that is 
kept in check by your eco system,  letting it out in this way could lead to a real disaster.  This is a realm best left to professionals. 

Generous thought, bad idea.
The commercial guys use kilns and fumigation and probably other methods to keep from exporting diseases and insects along with the wood.
The amateur export world has gained us Starlings, Japanese Beatles, Dutch Elm disease, Fire Ants, to name a few.  If your guys are still sloppy about what comes in,
I would not bet on their being any more careful about what goes out.  The wood that you offer is from wide spread agricultural species.  If you have something indigenous that is 
kept in check by your eco system,  letting it out in this way could lead to a real disaster.  This is a realm best left to professionals. 

Generous thought, bad idea.
The commercial guys use kilns and fumigation and probably other methods to keep from exporting diseases and insects along with the wood.
The amateur export world has gained us Starlings, Japanese Beatles, Dutch Elm disease, Fire Ants, to name a few.  If your guys are still sloppy about what comes in,
I would not bet on their being any more careful about what goes out.  The wood that you offer is from wide spread agricultural species.  If you have something indigenous that is 
kept in check by your eco system,  letting it out in this way could lead to a real disaster.  This is a realm best left to professionals. 

Mark,
Rather than cut into the spine to form a rabbet,  scab a thin veneer that makes the keel wider.   As thin as can be managed so that the planks look as though they dip into the keel.
No way to tell now deep it really is.
 
Was it a Jerry Lewis movie - Don't raise the bridge, lower the river?
 
Dean

Mark,
Rather than cut into the spine to form a rabbet,  scab a thin veneer that makes the keel wider.   As thin as can be managed so that the planks look as though they dip into the keel.
No way to tell now deep it really is.
 
Was it a Jerry Lewis movie - Don't raise the bridge, lower the river?
 
Dean

Mark,
Rather than cut into the spine to form a rabbet,  scab a thin veneer that makes the keel wider.   As thin as can be managed so that the planks look as though they dip into the keel.
No way to tell now deep it really is.
 
Was it a Jerry Lewis movie - Don't raise the bridge, lower the river?
 
Dean

When it is about freehand-drilling this is a largely academic discussion. Even the worst pin-vice is much better than the error introduced by your shaking and wobbly hand.
 
What you call 'pin-chuck' also runs by the name of 'insert drill-chuck' and as I said above, there are pretty bad ones around as well, that are not fit for the purpose, namely to be used in stationary drilling machines, when you want to use drills smaller than the range of chuck on the machine.
 
A good quality drill chuck has always three jaws, while cheap chucks, collets and most pin-vices are slotted cross-wise, giving them four jaws. On pin-vices concentricity is largely inconsequential, as they are hand-held.

There are a significant number of cultivars (varieties) of Buxus simpervirens.  They range from low and wide to tall and thin.  Complicating the subject for the US - a different species altogether = Buxus microphylla , is commonly used for garden purposes.  Also, the variety of Buxus s. most common here in the original colony region, "English" boxwood, is not likely to serve our purposes.  A shallow Web search returned a number of choices for cultivars.  None seem to focus on selecting a variety with a tall straight trunk with few lower branches.  This would be counter to what is wanted in a garden.  There must have been reasons growing such a variety in southern Europe at one point and perhaps a lucky individual could still find a plant or two to harvest.  I do not know the member data for this site,  but I suspect that few of us would come close to still being alive when a Buxus s. of a desired variety, planted today was large enough for harvest.
 
Calycophyllum multiflorum  is not Buxus s.  the Boxwood moniker applied to it is the product of advertising.  It is not what the Old Boys used.  While it is hard and yellow with indistinct grain and all but invisible pores,  it seems to be a species that does not sustain a significant commercial demand. 
 
Although the social pressure to use the "hot" species is all but impossible to resist,  it may be kinder to a budget to use a species that is domestic and commercial where you live.  Or,  if you have a chainsaw, a large band saw, and drying shed, you can obtain excellent wood on the hoof that is desirable but not commercial.   Be advised that my direction for viewing this is larger scale (1:60) POF.  The volume of wood used in framing timbers is a large one,  especially for a two decker or larger.  Adding to the pain = it seems like 50% winds up as saw dust.

Mark,
Rather than cut into the spine to form a rabbet,  scab a thin veneer that makes the keel wider.   As thin as can be managed so that the planks look as though they dip into the keel.
No way to tell now deep it really is.
 
Was it a Jerry Lewis movie - Don't raise the bridge, lower the river?
 
Dean

From the link that Bruce D provided - its is obvious that the Suits have altered the design - sacrificing quality for profit,  like that is anything but the rule.
The old swivel is significantly larger and I bet the collets are less precise, not that the originals were up to anything but wood as a target.

The one that I find most comfortable to use is a General Tools 92 Swivel Head Pin Vise
However,  it is an old version and I am fairly sure it was before China became the fabricator, so I do not know if the same tolerances obtain..
Compared to these others, it is like a kid from Dog Patch showing up at a exclusive boarding school dance, but it works for me.
 

There are a significant number of cultivars (varieties) of Buxus simpervirens.  They range from low and wide to tall and thin.  Complicating the subject for the US - a different species altogether = Buxus microphylla , is commonly used for garden purposes.  Also, the variety of Buxus s. most common here in the original colony region, "English" boxwood, is not likely to serve our purposes.  A shallow Web search returned a number of choices for cultivars.  None seem to focus on selecting a variety with a tall straight trunk with few lower branches.  This would be counter to what is wanted in a garden.  There must have been reasons growing such a variety in southern Europe at one point and perhaps a lucky individual could still find a plant or two to harvest.  I do not know the member data for this site,  but I suspect that few of us would come close to still being alive when a Buxus s. of a desired variety, planted today was large enough for harvest.
 
Calycophyllum multiflorum  is not Buxus s.  the Boxwood moniker applied to it is the product of advertising.  It is not what the Old Boys used.  While it is hard and yellow with indistinct grain and all but invisible pores,  it seems to be a species that does not sustain a significant commercial demand. 
 
Although the social pressure to use the "hot" species is all but impossible to resist,  it may be kinder to a budget to use a species that is domestic and commercial where you live.  Or,  if you have a chainsaw, a large band saw, and drying shed, you can obtain excellent wood on the hoof that is desirable but not commercial.   Be advised that my direction for viewing this is larger scale (1:60) POF.  The volume of wood used in framing timbers is a large one,  especially for a two decker or larger.  Adding to the pain = it seems like 50% winds up as saw dust.

Gaetan,
You are spot on about the difference in effort expended in sanding or cutting between Black Cherry and Hard Maple.  Maple requires a lot of work. But, Buxus s. is significantly harder than Hard Maple. 
In light of the obsession with Boxwood,  Buxus s. is about 1.5 times harder than Castelo, which is 1.25 times harder than Hard Maple.  Depending on your focus, relative hardness has not been a determining factor.
 
If no grain is the important characteristic,  Chuck has the answer with Alaskan Yellow Cedar.  It does not get much more reduced than that.  I think Port Orford Cedar is similar.  But it is not much easier to source than AYC.   
 
Out of necessity, I concede some grain.  We are using wood after all.  I am happy if the wood does not have open pores and the difference between Spring and Summer bands is moderate..  Oak, Ash, Hickory when scaled have pores large enough to be soup bowls @ 1:48 and most Walnut species are not much better. 
 
An interesting species is Bradford Pear.  It is hard and has a bit of a waxy surface.  But it grows fast and it is possible to get a surface for a frame that has 1 - 1.5 year's growth rings. It is a bear to cut with a chisel too. It was/is popular for municipal street planting,  Attractive blooms, leaves, relatively compact, easy to care for, but for one characteristic = it branches a lot and the branches are at an acute angle.  Their mechanical attachment to the main trunk becomes less as the branches increase in size over time.  A powerful wind storm can split off most or all of them.  It sort of looks like a peeled banana  with just the peel.  After a major storm, it is easy to get a serious supply.
 

To add to this:  if you are a chainsaw harvester,  even if you own a wood lot with Hard Maple or Black Cherry or Black Walnut,  it is highly probable that it is better to buy the rough sawn and kiln dried product from a hardwood mill or dealer.  Better to sell it to  the industry and buy it back processed.  Seasoning takes time and the wood may not play nice as it dries.  The work of a lumber jack is more than a little dangerous and most of them do it full time and know what is hazardous as a matter of experience.  For non commercially available species, this is about the only way, and if extreme care is taken , should work out OK.  But if you can get it another way, it is very false economy to play lumber jack.

Gaetan,
 
My evaluation of your list:
Not good choices, because of obvious and out of scale grain and pores   - 
Ash - all three
Hickory
Oak - both      editorial comment: is really awful  in how it looks in scale - hits you between the eyes.
 
For framing
Not good choices, because it is soft,  blunt (not crisp) edges,  fibers roll  - 
Aspen - both     ed.  a trash wood put in service for economic reasons
Basswood
Maple, soft/ especially silver
Poplar, balsam   ed.  a trash wood put in service for economic reasons
Sycamore, American  -  "lacewood"  I hate it.  When I started with this I bought a large supply because of what Underhill wrote about Sycamore.  Turns out - what the English know as Sycamore is actually a Maple that is a bit softer than Hard Maple, but close enough.  The North American Sycamore ( Platanus occidentalis  ) is different - it is similar to Black Cherry in hardness and looks close enough to Hard Maple in color to be difficult to isolate.  The fibers roll, it fuzzes when sanded or cut, it stinks when cut.  It has flecks in the grain - the "lace".
 
From what is left.
Elm, white  - I do not know
Elm, rock  -  I think I have some.  I bought what I thought was Black Cherry from a picker who got it in an estate sale.
                    it is very hard, not as unobtrusive in grain as I would wish, but acceptable.  Dulls blades.  Color is similar to aged Black Cherry
 
Elm, red  -   got a "deal" for a couple of planks from a cabinet maker in Lexington, turns out - he shed it because it was too cupped  to plane to a reasonable thickness.  I do not need it in a 4 or 8 foot length, so I salvaged more processing shorter lengths.  I advise giving cupped boards a pass if you can.  The wood is similar to Black Cherry in hardness.  Too much grain.
 
Sassafras   - way too much grain - got some with the Red Elm -  the way the grain presents, I think it will make an interesting base board, especially if dyed blue or green - it looks like ocean waves.
 
Beech,  American  -  similar to Hard Maple  except for a grain peculiarity - visible but not obvious "dashes"
Beech,  European  -  similar to Hard Maple - just a bit darker
Birch,  Yellow  -   similar to Hard Maple
 
Yellow Poplar   -  Tulip Poplar  ( Liriodendron tulipifera )  soft, easy to work, sharp edges, no visible pores,  can get really large boards  not expensive -  the problem is the color - it is streaky - nice yellow to green  to  a color that reminds me of a treated pier piling.   If you can select  out the yellow, it is great.
 
Black Cherry  -   Excellent - hard enough - has grain, but it is not obtrusive -  it will oxidize to a darker color over time - similar to steamed Pear.   it is softer than Pear  I harvested some Sweet Cherry - the wood is near identical in grain and hardness, but the color is yellow green.   Black Cherry has small inedible  fruit,  but Black Cherry syrup - pharmacy compounding - is made from the bark.  If you want darker but beautiful frames, this wood is the champion.  What you get from a lumber yard now will be light pink - color development takes time.
 
Hard Maple  -  (sugar)   about twice as hard as Black Cherry.  The closest in a commercial domestic wood to Buxus.  Not near as hard, but hard enough.  Color is similar to Buxus, but more blonde than yellow.
                       The Maple that I buy is plane cut.   I like two inch unplanned.  I slice off frame thickness boards for my thickness sander from this.  Maple has peculiar grain characteristics.  The plane cut surface has the normal faint oval pattern.  A slice perpendicular to this can yield a variety of faint patterns.  From the desired scale parallel layers, to flame, to tiger striped  -  it all depends on the distance from the pith.
The flame and tiger on the face of a frame timber is certainly not scale, but it is not bluntly obvious.  I think it adds interest.  Hard Maple is strong, holds a crisp edge,  is hard enough to keep your from getting into trouble when doing aggressive shaping. 
 
I think both Hard Maple and Black Cherry will serve your purposes excellently.  I can get either for less than $10 bf - maybe half that for Cherry, but  I sense that there is a covert inflation in play - from my increase in food costs.   I mill my own wood and I find rough, unplanned stock provides more wood - even if it does not sit against a saw fence as sweetly as planned stock.  If you like it, buy more than you think you will need.   I remember getting already dark red, clear Black Cherry from Homer Gregory Mill for $1 bf way back when.  Both the quality and cost are long gone. 

Chris,
This monograph will provide everything you could need or even want and is value for the cost and if you hurry, YOUR postal rate may not be painful.
 
The ship - is not too different from the Conny in cross section,  as far as tumblehome, with a tad more deadrise, but no hollow at the garboard.   Like the Conny class, 
this ship has as much in common with a razeed 74 as it does smaller frigates.
 
The cross section is nothing like Amarante,  Aurore 1697,  Belle Poule 1765,  or especially Renommee 1744 -which looks like nothing so much as a narrow waist BBW in exaggerated jodhpurs.
 

Mark,
Rather than cut into the spine to form a rabbet,  scab a thin veneer that makes the keel wider.   As thin as can be managed so that the planks look as though they dip into the keel.
No way to tell now deep it really is.
 
Was it a Jerry Lewis movie - Don't raise the bridge, lower the river?
 
Dean

The one that I find most comfortable to use is a General Tools 92 Swivel Head Pin Vise
However,  it is an old version and I am fairly sure it was before China became the fabricator, so I do not know if the same tolerances obtain..
Compared to these others, it is like a kid from Dog Patch showing up at a exclusive boarding school dance, but it works for me.
 

Chris,
This monograph will provide everything you could need or even want and is value for the cost and if you hurry, YOUR postal rate may not be painful.
 
The ship - is not too different from the Conny in cross section,  as far as tumblehome, with a tad more deadrise, but no hollow at the garboard.   Like the Conny class, 
this ship has as much in common with a razeed 74 as it does smaller frigates.
 
The cross section is nothing like Amarante,  Aurore 1697,  Belle Poule 1765,  or especially Renommee 1744 -which looks like nothing so much as a narrow waist BBW in exaggerated jodhpurs.
 

Chris,
This monograph will provide everything you could need or even want and is value for the cost and if you hurry, YOUR postal rate may not be painful.
 
The ship - is not too different from the Conny in cross section,  as far as tumblehome, with a tad more deadrise, but no hollow at the garboard.   Like the Conny class, 
this ship has as much in common with a razeed 74 as it does smaller frigates.
 
The cross section is nothing like Amarante,  Aurore 1697,  Belle Poule 1765,  or especially Renommee 1744 -which looks like nothing so much as a narrow waist BBW in exaggerated jodhpurs.
 

Mark,
 
I measured the frame scantlings as 2/3 wood and 1/3 space - 9.5" x 9.5" x 9.5" .   If you add trunnels to your outside planking, following that interval would match what ANCRE has.
I compared Belle Poule center cross section to Renommee to see how close they are - Belle is a bit wider and deeper and Renommee is a bit more extreme in the degree of curving.
 
Again with your filling between molds,  = a low cost option
Mill boards from a clear Pine 2x4 stud (~$4?)  having a thickness  that your laser likes,  and that the appropriate sum of lamination is just a push fit between molds.
In your Corel Draw, draft an inside moulded dimension for each mold  ***- The line of the fore most or aft most mold of each pair can define the inside for a particular unit, so no additional shaping there is needed.
Now that I think on it, the center mold does not even need this line drawn for it.
When you draw the inside line add 2-4  alignment dots - inside the pair  lines - and use a drill press to drill  a hole the diameter of whatever bamboo dowels you have.  Given that it is inside and hidden,
off the shelf bamboo skewers can be used as is, no pesky draw plate work needed .   This will perfectly align the stack of layers.  PVA glue up each stack of Pine layers  Add an additional 1/4" layer on the outside of the stack - on the side nearest to the mid line.  Bond it with double sided tape.  Have the two mold shapes on patterns rubber cemented to either face of the stack of layers.  Sand the bevel for each stack - off the hull,     pop off the 1/4" layer  (It was needed because it takes into account the mold thickness for a precise bevel).  When you place the filler stack between the molds, ~ 95% of the shaping has already been done.  If you wait until now to cut the bevel on the plywood mold, it should be easy to remove exactly what should be removed and with the Pine there, near impossible to overdo it.
 
*** ( I would say thick enough, but not too thick.)  The Navy demands that solid carved hulls be hollowed out, in their museum acquisitions.  An adaptation for heat and humidity, I recommend taking the hint.
 
I did some reading and discovered that Painter and Gimp and PaintShopPro are "raster" based  and Corel Draw is "vector" based.  I don't know what the practical difference is,  but raster works for my needs.

Chris,
This monograph will provide everything you could need or even want and is value for the cost and if you hurry, YOUR postal rate may not be painful.
 
The ship - is not too different from the Conny in cross section,  as far as tumblehome, with a tad more deadrise, but no hollow at the garboard.   Like the Conny class, 
this ship has as much in common with a razeed 74 as it does smaller frigates.
 
The cross section is nothing like Amarante,  Aurore 1697,  Belle Poule 1765,  or especially Renommee 1744 -which looks like nothing so much as a narrow waist BBW in exaggerated jodhpurs.
 

Mark,
 
I measured the frame scantlings as 2/3 wood and 1/3 space - 9.5" x 9.5" x 9.5" .   If you add trunnels to your outside planking, following that interval would match what ANCRE has.
I compared Belle Poule center cross section to Renommee to see how close they are - Belle is a bit wider and deeper and Renommee is a bit more extreme in the degree of curving.
 
Again with your filling between molds,  = a low cost option
Mill boards from a clear Pine 2x4 stud (~$4?)  having a thickness  that your laser likes,  and that the appropriate sum of lamination is just a push fit between molds.
In your Corel Draw, draft an inside moulded dimension for each mold  ***- The line of the fore most or aft most mold of each pair can define the inside for a particular unit, so no additional shaping there is needed.
Now that I think on it, the center mold does not even need this line drawn for it.
When you draw the inside line add 2-4  alignment dots - inside the pair  lines - and use a drill press to drill  a hole the diameter of whatever bamboo dowels you have.  Given that it is inside and hidden,
off the shelf bamboo skewers can be used as is, no pesky draw plate work needed .   This will perfectly align the stack of layers.  PVA glue up each stack of Pine layers  Add an additional 1/4" layer on the outside of the stack - on the side nearest to the mid line.  Bond it with double sided tape.  Have the two mold shapes on patterns rubber cemented to either face of the stack of layers.  Sand the bevel for each stack - off the hull,     pop off the 1/4" layer  (It was needed because it takes into account the mold thickness for a precise bevel).  When you place the filler stack between the molds, ~ 95% of the shaping has already been done.  If you wait until now to cut the bevel on the plywood mold, it should be easy to remove exactly what should be removed and with the Pine there, near impossible to overdo it.
 
*** ( I would say thick enough, but not too thick.)  The Navy demands that solid carved hulls be hollowed out, in their museum acquisitions.  An adaptation for heat and humidity, I recommend taking the hint.
 
I did some reading and discovered that Painter and Gimp and PaintShopPro are "raster" based  and Corel Draw is "vector" based.  I don't know what the practical difference is,  but raster works for my needs.

Not quite. Lime wood is tilia and basswood is tilia americana. I've used boih and the European tilia is a little harder and somewhat less 'fuzzy'.