Jaager

A long time traditional first coat is shellac.  It is pretty much compatible with everything.  It is cut 1:1 with alcohol for the first coat.
As a final finish, it must be kept from water,  Water turns it white.
Many sand and sealer formulations are designed to be a primary base for open pore  wood species - such as Oak, Willow, Ash, Walnut.  It fills the pores and has a smooth surface for a final clear finish product.  These are generally thick and leave a layer that is out of scale on a model.  I prefer to avoid using wood species that have open pores - unless it is not visible. 
0000  steel wool between coats, leaves "tooth" for the next coat to bind with.  Just vacuum and tack rag to remove any steel fibers.  They will rust and stain.

A long time traditional first coat is shellac.  It is pretty much compatible with everything.  It is cut 1:1 with alcohol for the first coat.
As a final finish, it must be kept from water,  Water turns it white.
Many sand and sealer formulations are designed to be a primary base for open pore  wood species - such as Oak, Willow, Ash, Walnut.  It fills the pores and has a smooth surface for a final clear finish product.  These are generally thick and leave a layer that is out of scale on a model.  I prefer to avoid using wood species that have open pores - unless it is not visible. 
0000  steel wool between coats, leaves "tooth" for the next coat to bind with.  Just vacuum and tack rag to remove any steel fibers.  They will rust and stain.

Wearing a tie anywhere close to a lathe- really insane.  

MPJA  sells a power supply for $17  3-12 volt selection range.  Allows for a range of RPM.

Wearing a tie anywhere close to a lathe- really insane.  

I will offer what are personal opinions.
Modeling a plastic kit is a bit different than a wood based kit.  It is more fabrication with the wood, rather than assembly.  Ship models are fabricated using plastic raw materials, but I think wood is an easier and more pleasing material to work with at that level.
Most wood models are probably easier to rig, once you shape the spars, because plastic is easier to break under line tension, 
My search for a SS Mariefred kit leads me to the conclusion that it is a POB hull not POF (plank on frame).  The HMS Snake kit is also POB, so the basic method will be the same.
 
I would try to fall in love with the Viking boat and build it first.  You have paid some of your money already.  The clinker planking skill earned will help with some ship's boats that are a part of larger vessels.  Some of the wood stock might be replaced with third party species that look and work better.
Pay close attention to the planking run.  A recent series in SIS shows that it can be done incorrectly.
 
HMS Snake is a 3 master, based on the hull of HMS Cruizer.  There were over 100 vessels built using that basic design.  It was designed as a large brig and is a single deck.  This places it at a place between beginner and intermediate, closer to intermediate. The Cruizer class is well represented in build logs in scratch and in kit forums.  It also has an older but high quality book dedicated to it:
MODELLING THE BRIG OF WAR IRENE                                  
PETREJUS,E W                                                     
N V UITGEVERSMAATSCHAPPO "DE ESCH"           
HENGELO, HOLLAND         
1970
MODELING TECHNIQUE       
19TH BRIG NA MASTING RIGGING POF EQUIP DECK 
 
Looking at the kit, 
the outer planking is a species of Walnut.  The color is nice, but the grain and open pores - a more appropriate species of planking material might be considered from a third party supplier.  If the copper plates supplied have embossed nails, they are grossly out of scale and a smooth copper substitute should replace it.  The number of moulds to support the inner planking is insufficient and needs amelioration.   

Downed trees, in contact with the ground, have a near continuous supply of water and recycling is likely. You may find that fungus and boring insects do not leave much useful wood.  The species that you list are pretty much all available commercially as seasoned lumber.  The work expended using ad hoc tools might be more efficiently expended on species not readily available from commercial dealers.  Fruit wood, hawthorn, boxwood, hornbeam, honey locust, dogwood  The Maple, Beech, Birch might provide branched stock, that at larger scales, provide naturally curved pieces for knees, hooks, catheads, etc.

Downed trees, in contact with the ground, have a near continuous supply of water and recycling is likely. You may find that fungus and boring insects do not leave much useful wood.  The species that you list are pretty much all available commercially as seasoned lumber.  The work expended using ad hoc tools might be more efficiently expended on species not readily available from commercial dealers.  Fruit wood, hawthorn, boxwood, hornbeam, honey locust, dogwood  The Maple, Beech, Birch might provide branched stock, that at larger scales, provide naturally curved pieces for knees, hooks, catheads, etc.

Downed trees, in contact with the ground, have a near continuous supply of water and recycling is likely. You may find that fungus and boring insects do not leave much useful wood.  The species that you list are pretty much all available commercially as seasoned lumber.  The work expended using ad hoc tools might be more efficiently expended on species not readily available from commercial dealers.  Fruit wood, hawthorn, boxwood, hornbeam, honey locust, dogwood  The Maple, Beech, Birch might provide branched stock, that at larger scales, provide naturally curved pieces for knees, hooks, catheads, etc.

I may be incorrect about this, but to introduce another complication:
for proper function, should not the long axis of the pintle and the long axis of the gudgeon  be in the same plane and be perpendicular to the axis of rotation?

I may be incorrect about this, but to introduce another complication:
for proper function, should not the long axis of the pintle and the long axis of the gudgeon  be in the same plane and be perpendicular to the axis of rotation?

I wonder if the additional of belaying pins on a model of a late 15th century ship is an anachronism?  A cursory search leads me to the conclusion that belaying pins first began to be used in the late 17th century or early 18th.  Kevels,  cleats and lashing to the planks fixed to the inside of the stanchions are the more probable belaying sites?  

Since carpenter's PVA is vinegar range acidic - bookbinder's neutral pH PVA may be a more prudent choice..
 
And an armchair experiment to consider:
Sew the ratline thru the shrouds.
Overlay the join locations with a clove hitch using a rope with a diameter that is a step lower than the actual ratline.
I suspect that the knot when using a actual ratline looks larger than it would on an actual ship.  It may even be a quicker way and less to finagle.

Take a look at locally available Acer sp. ( Maple)  Beech  Birch  Hornbeam
Pear - excellent for hull planking and frames.
 
Wood choices get a bit twisted in locally available species.  In North America, we often substitute our domestic species for ones economically available in Europe but expensive here and they somehow get a boost into a preferable import status there.  It is a bit perverse. 

IIf you do not mind cutting "fat" and finishing with a drum sander:
 
An Asian 9" bench top band saw that uses standard 59.5" blades  1/8"  is the  most narrow available here.
with a guide mount that will accept a Carter Stabilizer. 
Over here the saws are in the $150 or less range and the Carter is $75 more or less.  The fitting allows for tight curves to be cut.
1/4" Maple is no problem.
You will need a hand fret saw to cut inside closed jobs.
You will only face headache and frustration if you try to use a band saw this weak to resaw wood that is thick, so justifying the purchase with the additional function will not pan out.

IIf you do not mind cutting "fat" and finishing with a drum sander:
 
An Asian 9" bench top band saw that uses standard 59.5" blades  1/8"  is the  most narrow available here.
with a guide mount that will accept a Carter Stabilizer. 
Over here the saws are in the $150 or less range and the Carter is $75 more or less.  The fitting allows for tight curves to be cut.
1/4" Maple is no problem.
You will need a hand fret saw to cut inside closed jobs.
You will only face headache and frustration if you try to use a band saw this weak to resaw wood that is thick, so justifying the purchase with the additional function will not pan out.

A digital micrometer to measure the thickness would help with your selections and if you enter the dark side (scratch) will be a necessary tool.
 
WoodCraft has Basswood, Hard Maple, and Black Cherry in thin stock as well as a variety of veneer choices.
 
An alternate, since the stock is so thin, use paper (cardboard) instead.   The wood pattern can be painted - probably lots of on-line how to sites.
Or you can find an appropriate wood texture on a 3D CG site and use your printer to turn the paper into "wood".
 
If you search the site for the discussions on knife blades - Xacto vs surgical vs a real violin makers knife - the stock is so thin cutting rather than sawing appears to be what would be the way to free the planks from the board stock.

To present the map - you choose your own route:
PVA bonds thru a polymerization reaction.  The chains have to penetrate the substance of the wood to produce a strong bond. The closer the two wood surfaces - the stronger the bond.  A force that crushes the wood fibers is something to avoid, but below that force, the stronger the clamping pressure the stronger the bond.  Total coverage of both meeting surfaces is a good goal.  Preparation of the meeting surfaces is a detail to consider. Sanding the surface with a grit finer than 220 runs the danger of leaving the surface with no substance for the polymer chains to penetrate. Sandpaper can leave the pores filled with wood flour if too fine a grit is used. Scraping leaves clean and open pores.

To present the map - you choose your own route:
PVA bonds thru a polymerization reaction.  The chains have to penetrate the substance of the wood to produce a strong bond. The closer the two wood surfaces - the stronger the bond.  A force that crushes the wood fibers is something to avoid, but below that force, the stronger the clamping pressure the stronger the bond.  Total coverage of both meeting surfaces is a good goal.  Preparation of the meeting surfaces is a detail to consider. Sanding the surface with a grit finer than 220 runs the danger of leaving the surface with no substance for the polymer chains to penetrate. Sandpaper can leave the pores filled with wood flour if too fine a grit is used. Scraping leaves clean and open pores.

To present the map - you choose your own route:
PVA bonds thru a polymerization reaction.  The chains have to penetrate the substance of the wood to produce a strong bond. The closer the two wood surfaces - the stronger the bond.  A force that crushes the wood fibers is something to avoid, but below that force, the stronger the clamping pressure the stronger the bond.  Total coverage of both meeting surfaces is a good goal.  Preparation of the meeting surfaces is a detail to consider. Sanding the surface with a grit finer than 220 runs the danger of leaving the surface with no substance for the polymer chains to penetrate. Sandpaper can leave the pores filled with wood flour if too fine a grit is used. Scraping leaves clean and open pores.

POB?  initial layer of planking?
Small dents = PVA mixed with wood flour.
serious hollows = scab a piece of thin veneer of Softwood or Basswood or Yellow Poplar with PVA and sand/ scrape to conformation.

The gunports are very close to the deck.  Looks like small caliber guns on skids.  Iron hammock braces on top of the rail and drawn skewed to show their construction.  The curved piece looks like the end moulding of a bulwark, but nothing ekse supports that.  The number of lines at the rail and the hanging knees below,  could be a partial spar deck over the gunports.  I would guess 1835 +/- 15 years.

POB?  initial layer of planking?
Small dents = PVA mixed with wood flour.
serious hollows = scab a piece of thin veneer of Softwood or Basswood or Yellow Poplar with PVA and sand/ scrape to conformation.

If you can mill it to the needed dimensions, an inexpensive source of filling material:
 
in the US,  dwellings are framed using 2x4 by 8' Fir or Pine lumber.  A mega store building supply chain sells it for< $4 each
It is a softwood - evergreen - not difficult on cutting edges.  Pick clear straight stock.  As long as it is not sappy Pine, it glues well.
If you have access, a free supply might be had from a building site from the end cuttings and scrap, if you ask.

Since, no one seems to want to touch this;
 
It is not a contest or a race.  These is no "best". 
 
I prefer hard, closed pore, tight grain, low contrast. 
If I have looked up the correct species in the data base, what you were provided in the kit would be high on my reject list.
The exact species depends-  what color?, what scale?,  bare wood or painted? 
can you mill your own wood? 
You do not list your location.
I think a locally available species is more cost effective.  This is especially true for framing stock. 
A full size 1st rate took a forest to build it.  A model of one can require a lot of wood - especially 1:72 or larger.