Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH in Filler Blocks
If you can mill it to the needed dimensions, an inexpensive source of filling material:
in the US, dwellings are framed using 2x4 by 8' Fir or Pine lumber. A mega store building supply chain sells it for< $4 each
It is a softwood - evergreen - not difficult on cutting edges. Pick clear straight stock. As long as it is not sappy Pine, it glues well.
If you have access, a free supply might be had from a building site from the end cuttings and scrap, if you ask.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Filler Blocks
If you can mill it to the needed dimensions, an inexpensive source of filling material:
in the US, dwellings are framed using 2x4 by 8' Fir or Pine lumber. A mega store building supply chain sells it for< $4 each
It is a softwood - evergreen - not difficult on cutting edges. Pick clear straight stock. As long as it is not sappy Pine, it glues well.
If you have access, a free supply might be had from a building site from the end cuttings and scrap, if you ask.
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Jaager got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Filler Blocks
If you can mill it to the needed dimensions, an inexpensive source of filling material:
in the US, dwellings are framed using 2x4 by 8' Fir or Pine lumber. A mega store building supply chain sells it for< $4 each
It is a softwood - evergreen - not difficult on cutting edges. Pick clear straight stock. As long as it is not sappy Pine, it glues well.
If you have access, a free supply might be had from a building site from the end cuttings and scrap, if you ask.
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Jaager got a reaction from olopa67 in Filler Blocks
If you can mill it to the needed dimensions, an inexpensive source of filling material:
in the US, dwellings are framed using 2x4 by 8' Fir or Pine lumber. A mega store building supply chain sells it for< $4 each
It is a softwood - evergreen - not difficult on cutting edges. Pick clear straight stock. As long as it is not sappy Pine, it glues well.
If you have access, a free supply might be had from a building site from the end cuttings and scrap, if you ask.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in New to table saw
I am not going to look it up, but I remember it as the blade ideally having 3 teeth in contract with the wood and the crown of the blade being a minimal distance above the stock. That means the blade hits the stock at about a 30 degree angle from the horizontal. Too many fine teeth and the gullet fills with cuttings and can no longer cut. Too few teeth and it is like cutting with a chisel driven by a hammer - intermittently.
To get your 1/8" stock from a 1" or 2" thick billet - a different and larger tool. The efficient choice is a band saw - and not a bench top model - and a thickness sander - a hollow ground blade on a 10" table saw works, but has more waste and wants to eat your fingers.
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Jaager got a reaction from paulsutcliffe in New to table saw
I am not going to look it up, but I remember it as the blade ideally having 3 teeth in contract with the wood and the crown of the blade being a minimal distance above the stock. That means the blade hits the stock at about a 30 degree angle from the horizontal. Too many fine teeth and the gullet fills with cuttings and can no longer cut. Too few teeth and it is like cutting with a chisel driven by a hammer - intermittently.
To get your 1/8" stock from a 1" or 2" thick billet - a different and larger tool. The efficient choice is a band saw - and not a bench top model - and a thickness sander - a hollow ground blade on a 10" table saw works, but has more waste and wants to eat your fingers.
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Jaager got a reaction from Bob Cleek in New to table saw
I am not going to look it up, but I remember it as the blade ideally having 3 teeth in contract with the wood and the crown of the blade being a minimal distance above the stock. That means the blade hits the stock at about a 30 degree angle from the horizontal. Too many fine teeth and the gullet fills with cuttings and can no longer cut. Too few teeth and it is like cutting with a chisel driven by a hammer - intermittently.
To get your 1/8" stock from a 1" or 2" thick billet - a different and larger tool. The efficient choice is a band saw - and not a bench top model - and a thickness sander - a hollow ground blade on a 10" table saw works, but has more waste and wants to eat your fingers.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in New to table saw
I am not going to look it up, but I remember it as the blade ideally having 3 teeth in contract with the wood and the crown of the blade being a minimal distance above the stock. That means the blade hits the stock at about a 30 degree angle from the horizontal. Too many fine teeth and the gullet fills with cuttings and can no longer cut. Too few teeth and it is like cutting with a chisel driven by a hammer - intermittently.
To get your 1/8" stock from a 1" or 2" thick billet - a different and larger tool. The efficient choice is a band saw - and not a bench top model - and a thickness sander - a hollow ground blade on a 10" table saw works, but has more waste and wants to eat your fingers.
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Jaager got a reaction from Jim Rogers in New to table saw
I am not going to look it up, but I remember it as the blade ideally having 3 teeth in contract with the wood and the crown of the blade being a minimal distance above the stock. That means the blade hits the stock at about a 30 degree angle from the horizontal. Too many fine teeth and the gullet fills with cuttings and can no longer cut. Too few teeth and it is like cutting with a chisel driven by a hammer - intermittently.
To get your 1/8" stock from a 1" or 2" thick billet - a different and larger tool. The efficient choice is a band saw - and not a bench top model - and a thickness sander - a hollow ground blade on a 10" table saw works, but has more waste and wants to eat your fingers.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Warped frames
JD,
If you pursue this method, you may find that a frame press a useful tool.
I made one from a HF bench top pipe vise - sold by them long ago - and 3/4" plywood 12" x 12".
This one is from Amazon and is smaller than the HF model. I have large dowels at all 4 corners in an attempt to keep the clamping surfaces parallel. It sits in the middle . The tool looks like a wine press ot 1st generation printing press.
Something similar can be made using a pipe clamp.
These are sized for 1/2" or 3/4" central pipes.
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Jaager got a reaction from vulcanbomber in Wood Recommendation For Scratching Ship's Boats
Bruce,
I wish to re enforce - if you have toast, but the wood is solid and not full of checks and splits, even if grey or blue, no better wood can be had for planking a hull. It is hard, very faint grain, no obvious pores, it bends like a champ, holds a crisp edge, takes a dye really well. Dyed black, it is probably easier to work and just as attractive a Ebony for wales. So it would not really be toast.
I read a short story long ago, where the punch line - a sharp salesman had sold what he thought was junk (but was anything but junk) and had pulled one over a wealthy buyer, received a gift from the buyer = a block of solid gold painted to look like a brick.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Wood Recommendation For Scratching Ship's Boats
Bruce,
I wish to re enforce - if you have toast, but the wood is solid and not full of checks and splits, even if grey or blue, no better wood can be had for planking a hull. It is hard, very faint grain, no obvious pores, it bends like a champ, holds a crisp edge, takes a dye really well. Dyed black, it is probably easier to work and just as attractive a Ebony for wales. So it would not really be toast.
I read a short story long ago, where the punch line - a sharp salesman had sold what he thought was junk (but was anything but junk) and had pulled one over a wealthy buyer, received a gift from the buyer = a block of solid gold painted to look like a brick.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Wood Recommendation For Scratching Ship's Boats
Bruce,
Here in the US, Holly is a special case when seasoning. The fresh log contains a lot of water and the internal communication is such that no part is isolated. There is a fungus that lives with the tree and quickly infects the wood when the tree is felled. It is termed Blue Mold. It leaves the wood with a lt blue or grey color. The other properties of the wood are unchanged, so it is usable. It is just bot snow white. It makes for realistic sun bleached deck when grey. It takes dye well. If you find that your stock is similarly infected, It is still a superb wood for model construction, it is just not the unrealistic white favored by some for decks. The tree is too small to be used for a full size deck and no other tree has wood that color even when stone sanded.
The way to obtain the white wood is to fell the tree in Winter, billet it and get it into a kiln - essentially all on the same day.
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Jaager got a reaction from bruce d in Wood Recommendation For Scratching Ship's Boats
Bruce,
I wish to re enforce - if you have toast, but the wood is solid and not full of checks and splits, even if grey or blue, no better wood can be had for planking a hull. It is hard, very faint grain, no obvious pores, it bends like a champ, holds a crisp edge, takes a dye really well. Dyed black, it is probably easier to work and just as attractive a Ebony for wales. So it would not really be toast.
I read a short story long ago, where the punch line - a sharp salesman had sold what he thought was junk (but was anything but junk) and had pulled one over a wealthy buyer, received a gift from the buyer = a block of solid gold painted to look like a brick.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Teak veneer substitute
You should consider the following in your process of coloring the wood:
a stain is a form of paint, sits on the surface - semitransparent - so some of the wood shows thru.
a dye penetrates into the wood - not on the surface - it enhances the natural grain.
two types of dye - alcohol and water -
alcohol has shallow penetration - dries quickly - does not affect wood surface.
water penetrates more deeply - takes longer to dry and the first exposure to water can swell surface fibers - needing a sanding or scraping before finish.
a way to fix this is to first apply just water - with 10-20% PVA to swell the fibers that will swell and the glue to lock them. sand or scrape after 24 hrs and then apply the actual dye solution. no more swelling, so no need to abrade the dyed surface.
If you use crap wood, using a stain is a good choice. If you use expensive or attractive wood, use a dye so as not to hide what you paid for.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Teak veneer substitute
I looked up Teak on the Wood Database. A light colored wood that takes aniline wood dyes well and treat it with a light concentration of Walnut.
Some of what is sold as Walnut in Europe looks similar to Teak, but is too open pore to scale down effectively.
What we usually mean by Walnut in the US = Juglans nigra is much too dark.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Teak veneer substitute
You should consider the following in your process of coloring the wood:
a stain is a form of paint, sits on the surface - semitransparent - so some of the wood shows thru.
a dye penetrates into the wood - not on the surface - it enhances the natural grain.
two types of dye - alcohol and water -
alcohol has shallow penetration - dries quickly - does not affect wood surface.
water penetrates more deeply - takes longer to dry and the first exposure to water can swell surface fibers - needing a sanding or scraping before finish.
a way to fix this is to first apply just water - with 10-20% PVA to swell the fibers that will swell and the glue to lock them. sand or scrape after 24 hrs and then apply the actual dye solution. no more swelling, so no need to abrade the dyed surface.
If you use crap wood, using a stain is a good choice. If you use expensive or attractive wood, use a dye so as not to hide what you paid for.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Teak veneer substitute
I looked up Teak on the Wood Database. A light colored wood that takes aniline wood dyes well and treat it with a light concentration of Walnut.
Some of what is sold as Walnut in Europe looks similar to Teak, but is too open pore to scale down effectively.
What we usually mean by Walnut in the US = Juglans nigra is much too dark.
-
Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Teak veneer substitute
You should consider the following in your process of coloring the wood:
a stain is a form of paint, sits on the surface - semitransparent - so some of the wood shows thru.
a dye penetrates into the wood - not on the surface - it enhances the natural grain.
two types of dye - alcohol and water -
alcohol has shallow penetration - dries quickly - does not affect wood surface.
water penetrates more deeply - takes longer to dry and the first exposure to water can swell surface fibers - needing a sanding or scraping before finish.
a way to fix this is to first apply just water - with 10-20% PVA to swell the fibers that will swell and the glue to lock them. sand or scrape after 24 hrs and then apply the actual dye solution. no more swelling, so no need to abrade the dyed surface.
If you use crap wood, using a stain is a good choice. If you use expensive or attractive wood, use a dye so as not to hide what you paid for.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Work bench
I was not as clear as I thought about the heavy duty folding shelf brackets. I would use them to make the actual bench top wider and deeper- with the addition at the front. One of the 'rules" I learned when a grad student in a research lab is = you can never have too much bench space.
The casters - in case being against the wall blocks the side bench top extension and in case the room needed to be temporarily repurposed.
A Byrnes disk sander could find a home there. I find mine to be a significant improvement over the MM version I used previously.
Something like a couple of Sterilite Drawer Organizers mounted up under the bench top on either side.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Work bench
Additions that I would apply:
drop down casters from Woodworkers Supply on the inside of eachleg.
at least one power strip
two "cranes" on the top of the back to site an LED shop light or two over the work area.
an X brace on the two back legs
folding shelf brackets on the side and perhaps the front
Why build something if you can't over engineer it?
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Work bench
I was not as clear as I thought about the heavy duty folding shelf brackets. I would use them to make the actual bench top wider and deeper- with the addition at the front. One of the 'rules" I learned when a grad student in a research lab is = you can never have too much bench space.
The casters - in case being against the wall blocks the side bench top extension and in case the room needed to be temporarily repurposed.
A Byrnes disk sander could find a home there. I find mine to be a significant improvement over the MM version I used previously.
Something like a couple of Sterilite Drawer Organizers mounted up under the bench top on either side.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Work bench
Additions that I would apply:
drop down casters from Woodworkers Supply on the inside of eachleg.
at least one power strip
two "cranes" on the top of the back to site an LED shop light or two over the work area.
an X brace on the two back legs
folding shelf brackets on the side and perhaps the front
Why build something if you can't over engineer it?
-
Jaager got a reaction from Altduck in Teak veneer substitute
You should consider the following in your process of coloring the wood:
a stain is a form of paint, sits on the surface - semitransparent - so some of the wood shows thru.
a dye penetrates into the wood - not on the surface - it enhances the natural grain.
two types of dye - alcohol and water -
alcohol has shallow penetration - dries quickly - does not affect wood surface.
water penetrates more deeply - takes longer to dry and the first exposure to water can swell surface fibers - needing a sanding or scraping before finish.
a way to fix this is to first apply just water - with 10-20% PVA to swell the fibers that will swell and the glue to lock them. sand or scrape after 24 hrs and then apply the actual dye solution. no more swelling, so no need to abrade the dyed surface.
If you use crap wood, using a stain is a good choice. If you use expensive or attractive wood, use a dye so as not to hide what you paid for.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Table saw Australia
There is a PDF and/or HTML from Hobby Mill (Jeff) covering the operation of the Byrnes saw and recommended blades .
I would get a backup for each blade. The bevel cut option may not be cost effective. The cross cut sliding table is elegant
but you could cobble something to do the same function from low cost materials. Do a search here for the saw accessories post.
I regret not having the proper attribution here, but an excellent version of the cross cut table is shown - where the table is short enough on one side to allow the fence to stay. The deluxe fence is good to have as is the micro adjustment.
I wonder if there would be a price break on shipping if several units were together - if more than one of your fellow countrymen did a group deal?
Time has a way of having things available today, impossible to obtain in the future.
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