Jaager
-
Posts
3,084 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in CA-glue for ratlines?
Since carpenter's PVA is vinegar range acidic - bookbinder's neutral pH PVA may be a more prudent choice..
And an armchair experiment to consider:
Sew the ratline thru the shrouds.
Overlay the join locations with a clove hitch using a rope with a diameter that is a step lower than the actual ratline.
I suspect that the knot when using a actual ratline looks larger than it would on an actual ship. It may even be a quicker way and less to finagle.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Wood for decking
Take a look at locally available Acer sp. ( Maple) Beech Birch Hornbeam
Pear - excellent for hull planking and frames.
Wood choices get a bit twisted in locally available species. In North America, we often substitute our domestic species for ones economically available in Europe but expensive here and they somehow get a boost into a preferable import status there. It is a bit perverse.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Which scroll saw (UK)?
IIf you do not mind cutting "fat" and finishing with a drum sander:
An Asian 9" bench top band saw that uses standard 59.5" blades 1/8" is the most narrow available here.
with a guide mount that will accept a Carter Stabilizer.
Over here the saws are in the $150 or less range and the Carter is $75 more or less. The fitting allows for tight curves to be cut.
1/4" Maple is no problem.
You will need a hand fret saw to cut inside closed jobs.
You will only face headache and frustration if you try to use a band saw this weak to resaw wood that is thick, so justifying the purchase with the additional function will not pan out.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Which scroll saw (UK)?
IIf you do not mind cutting "fat" and finishing with a drum sander:
An Asian 9" bench top band saw that uses standard 59.5" blades 1/8" is the most narrow available here.
with a guide mount that will accept a Carter Stabilizer.
Over here the saws are in the $150 or less range and the Carter is $75 more or less. The fitting allows for tight curves to be cut.
1/4" Maple is no problem.
You will need a hand fret saw to cut inside closed jobs.
You will only face headache and frustration if you try to use a band saw this weak to resaw wood that is thick, so justifying the purchase with the additional function will not pan out.
-
Jaager got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Good online store for wood.
A digital micrometer to measure the thickness would help with your selections and if you enter the dark side (scratch) will be a necessary tool.
WoodCraft has Basswood, Hard Maple, and Black Cherry in thin stock as well as a variety of veneer choices.
An alternate, since the stock is so thin, use paper (cardboard) instead. The wood pattern can be painted - probably lots of on-line how to sites.
Or you can find an appropriate wood texture on a 3D CG site and use your printer to turn the paper into "wood".
If you search the site for the discussions on knife blades - Xacto vs surgical vs a real violin makers knife - the stock is so thin cutting rather than sawing appears to be what would be the way to free the planks from the board stock.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Plank glue
To present the map - you choose your own route:
PVA bonds thru a polymerization reaction. The chains have to penetrate the substance of the wood to produce a strong bond. The closer the two wood surfaces - the stronger the bond. A force that crushes the wood fibers is something to avoid, but below that force, the stronger the clamping pressure the stronger the bond. Total coverage of both meeting surfaces is a good goal. Preparation of the meeting surfaces is a detail to consider. Sanding the surface with a grit finer than 220 runs the danger of leaving the surface with no substance for the polymer chains to penetrate. Sandpaper can leave the pores filled with wood flour if too fine a grit is used. Scraping leaves clean and open pores.
-
Jaager got a reaction from wefalck in Plank glue
To present the map - you choose your own route:
PVA bonds thru a polymerization reaction. The chains have to penetrate the substance of the wood to produce a strong bond. The closer the two wood surfaces - the stronger the bond. A force that crushes the wood fibers is something to avoid, but below that force, the stronger the clamping pressure the stronger the bond. Total coverage of both meeting surfaces is a good goal. Preparation of the meeting surfaces is a detail to consider. Sanding the surface with a grit finer than 220 runs the danger of leaving the surface with no substance for the polymer chains to penetrate. Sandpaper can leave the pores filled with wood flour if too fine a grit is used. Scraping leaves clean and open pores.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Plank glue
To present the map - you choose your own route:
PVA bonds thru a polymerization reaction. The chains have to penetrate the substance of the wood to produce a strong bond. The closer the two wood surfaces - the stronger the bond. A force that crushes the wood fibers is something to avoid, but below that force, the stronger the clamping pressure the stronger the bond. Total coverage of both meeting surfaces is a good goal. Preparation of the meeting surfaces is a detail to consider. Sanding the surface with a grit finer than 220 runs the danger of leaving the surface with no substance for the polymer chains to penetrate. Sandpaper can leave the pores filled with wood flour if too fine a grit is used. Scraping leaves clean and open pores.
-
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in rail function
The gunports are very close to the deck. Looks like small caliber guns on skids. Iron hammock braces on top of the rail and drawn skewed to show their construction. The curved piece looks like the end moulding of a bulwark, but nothing ekse supports that. The number of lines at the rail and the hanging knees below, could be a partial spar deck over the gunports. I would guess 1835 +/- 15 years.
-
-
Jaager got a reaction from GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH in Filler Blocks
If you can mill it to the needed dimensions, an inexpensive source of filling material:
in the US, dwellings are framed using 2x4 by 8' Fir or Pine lumber. A mega store building supply chain sells it for< $4 each
It is a softwood - evergreen - not difficult on cutting edges. Pick clear straight stock. As long as it is not sappy Pine, it glues well.
If you have access, a free supply might be had from a building site from the end cuttings and scrap, if you ask.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in What is the Best Wood in bending for hull planking
Since, no one seems to want to touch this;
It is not a contest or a race. These is no "best".
I prefer hard, closed pore, tight grain, low contrast.
If I have looked up the correct species in the data base, what you were provided in the kit would be high on my reject list.
The exact species depends- what color?, what scale?, bare wood or painted?
can you mill your own wood?
You do not list your location.
I think a locally available species is more cost effective. This is especially true for framing stock.
A full size 1st rate took a forest to build it. A model of one can require a lot of wood - especially 1:72 or larger.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Filler Blocks
If you can mill it to the needed dimensions, an inexpensive source of filling material:
in the US, dwellings are framed using 2x4 by 8' Fir or Pine lumber. A mega store building supply chain sells it for< $4 each
It is a softwood - evergreen - not difficult on cutting edges. Pick clear straight stock. As long as it is not sappy Pine, it glues well.
If you have access, a free supply might be had from a building site from the end cuttings and scrap, if you ask.
-
Jaager got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Filler Blocks
If you can mill it to the needed dimensions, an inexpensive source of filling material:
in the US, dwellings are framed using 2x4 by 8' Fir or Pine lumber. A mega store building supply chain sells it for< $4 each
It is a softwood - evergreen - not difficult on cutting edges. Pick clear straight stock. As long as it is not sappy Pine, it glues well.
If you have access, a free supply might be had from a building site from the end cuttings and scrap, if you ask.
-
Jaager got a reaction from olopa67 in Filler Blocks
If you can mill it to the needed dimensions, an inexpensive source of filling material:
in the US, dwellings are framed using 2x4 by 8' Fir or Pine lumber. A mega store building supply chain sells it for< $4 each
It is a softwood - evergreen - not difficult on cutting edges. Pick clear straight stock. As long as it is not sappy Pine, it glues well.
If you have access, a free supply might be had from a building site from the end cuttings and scrap, if you ask.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Filler Blocks
If you can mill it to the needed dimensions, an inexpensive source of filling material:
in the US, dwellings are framed using 2x4 by 8' Fir or Pine lumber. A mega store building supply chain sells it for< $4 each
It is a softwood - evergreen - not difficult on cutting edges. Pick clear straight stock. As long as it is not sappy Pine, it glues well.
If you have access, a free supply might be had from a building site from the end cuttings and scrap, if you ask.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in New to table saw
I am not going to look it up, but I remember it as the blade ideally having 3 teeth in contract with the wood and the crown of the blade being a minimal distance above the stock. That means the blade hits the stock at about a 30 degree angle from the horizontal. Too many fine teeth and the gullet fills with cuttings and can no longer cut. Too few teeth and it is like cutting with a chisel driven by a hammer - intermittently.
To get your 1/8" stock from a 1" or 2" thick billet - a different and larger tool. The efficient choice is a band saw - and not a bench top model - and a thickness sander - a hollow ground blade on a 10" table saw works, but has more waste and wants to eat your fingers.
-
Jaager got a reaction from paulsutcliffe in New to table saw
I am not going to look it up, but I remember it as the blade ideally having 3 teeth in contract with the wood and the crown of the blade being a minimal distance above the stock. That means the blade hits the stock at about a 30 degree angle from the horizontal. Too many fine teeth and the gullet fills with cuttings and can no longer cut. Too few teeth and it is like cutting with a chisel driven by a hammer - intermittently.
To get your 1/8" stock from a 1" or 2" thick billet - a different and larger tool. The efficient choice is a band saw - and not a bench top model - and a thickness sander - a hollow ground blade on a 10" table saw works, but has more waste and wants to eat your fingers.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Bob Cleek in New to table saw
I am not going to look it up, but I remember it as the blade ideally having 3 teeth in contract with the wood and the crown of the blade being a minimal distance above the stock. That means the blade hits the stock at about a 30 degree angle from the horizontal. Too many fine teeth and the gullet fills with cuttings and can no longer cut. Too few teeth and it is like cutting with a chisel driven by a hammer - intermittently.
To get your 1/8" stock from a 1" or 2" thick billet - a different and larger tool. The efficient choice is a band saw - and not a bench top model - and a thickness sander - a hollow ground blade on a 10" table saw works, but has more waste and wants to eat your fingers.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in New to table saw
I am not going to look it up, but I remember it as the blade ideally having 3 teeth in contract with the wood and the crown of the blade being a minimal distance above the stock. That means the blade hits the stock at about a 30 degree angle from the horizontal. Too many fine teeth and the gullet fills with cuttings and can no longer cut. Too few teeth and it is like cutting with a chisel driven by a hammer - intermittently.
To get your 1/8" stock from a 1" or 2" thick billet - a different and larger tool. The efficient choice is a band saw - and not a bench top model - and a thickness sander - a hollow ground blade on a 10" table saw works, but has more waste and wants to eat your fingers.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Jim Rogers in New to table saw
I am not going to look it up, but I remember it as the blade ideally having 3 teeth in contract with the wood and the crown of the blade being a minimal distance above the stock. That means the blade hits the stock at about a 30 degree angle from the horizontal. Too many fine teeth and the gullet fills with cuttings and can no longer cut. Too few teeth and it is like cutting with a chisel driven by a hammer - intermittently.
To get your 1/8" stock from a 1" or 2" thick billet - a different and larger tool. The efficient choice is a band saw - and not a bench top model - and a thickness sander - a hollow ground blade on a 10" table saw works, but has more waste and wants to eat your fingers.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Warped frames
JD,
If you pursue this method, you may find that a frame press a useful tool.
I made one from a HF bench top pipe vise - sold by them long ago - and 3/4" plywood 12" x 12".
This one is from Amazon and is smaller than the HF model. I have large dowels at all 4 corners in an attempt to keep the clamping surfaces parallel. It sits in the middle . The tool looks like a wine press ot 1st generation printing press.
Something similar can be made using a pipe clamp.
These are sized for 1/2" or 3/4" central pipes.
-
Jaager got a reaction from vulcanbomber in Wood Recommendation For Scratching Ship's Boats
Bruce,
I wish to re enforce - if you have toast, but the wood is solid and not full of checks and splits, even if grey or blue, no better wood can be had for planking a hull. It is hard, very faint grain, no obvious pores, it bends like a champ, holds a crisp edge, takes a dye really well. Dyed black, it is probably easier to work and just as attractive a Ebony for wales. So it would not really be toast.
I read a short story long ago, where the punch line - a sharp salesman had sold what he thought was junk (but was anything but junk) and had pulled one over a wealthy buyer, received a gift from the buyer = a block of solid gold painted to look like a brick.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Wood Recommendation For Scratching Ship's Boats
Bruce,
I wish to re enforce - if you have toast, but the wood is solid and not full of checks and splits, even if grey or blue, no better wood can be had for planking a hull. It is hard, very faint grain, no obvious pores, it bends like a champ, holds a crisp edge, takes a dye really well. Dyed black, it is probably easier to work and just as attractive a Ebony for wales. So it would not really be toast.
I read a short story long ago, where the punch line - a sharp salesman had sold what he thought was junk (but was anything but junk) and had pulled one over a wealthy buyer, received a gift from the buyer = a block of solid gold painted to look like a brick.
Our Emblem ®
