Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Sanding Machines for Scale Modeling video now up ...
Paul is dead on about the MicroMark 5 inch disk sander. It is the one that I have
and it is noisy and the RPM are too high. I slow it down a bit with an old Dremel
Solid State speed control - from before Dremel rotary machines had on board speed
controls - but the loss of torque follows a curve function instead of a straight line so
it does not slow down all that much. I only work with wood so the speed is acceptable.
It does run true though.
One addition I made was to use cardboard from a box to enclose all three sides of the underside of the table and
behind the disk and insert a crevice tool thru a slot to vac the copious dust produced.
A simple port under the table is not as efficient.
I also agree about the tilt function for a spindle sander being an essentially useless feature.
Frame bevels follow a continuous change and free hand is about the only way to shape them.
I can see no utility for the up/down oscillation function though.
Harbor Freight has a 4 inch belt sander (I ignore the disk part) back on sale for $60 - but
Paul is also correct about real estate needed and it being useless for inside curves. With 60 grit
medium - it will eat thru wood fairly fast.
The combo sander with a 1 inch belt and disk would be of questionable utility if it were $10.
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Jaager got a reaction from pompey2 in Sanding Machines for Scale Modeling video now up ...
Paul is dead on about the MicroMark 5 inch disk sander. It is the one that I have
and it is noisy and the RPM are too high. I slow it down a bit with an old Dremel
Solid State speed control - from before Dremel rotary machines had on board speed
controls - but the loss of torque follows a curve function instead of a straight line so
it does not slow down all that much. I only work with wood so the speed is acceptable.
It does run true though.
One addition I made was to use cardboard from a box to enclose all three sides of the underside of the table and
behind the disk and insert a crevice tool thru a slot to vac the copious dust produced.
A simple port under the table is not as efficient.
I also agree about the tilt function for a spindle sander being an essentially useless feature.
Frame bevels follow a continuous change and free hand is about the only way to shape them.
I can see no utility for the up/down oscillation function though.
Harbor Freight has a 4 inch belt sander (I ignore the disk part) back on sale for $60 - but
Paul is also correct about real estate needed and it being useless for inside curves. With 60 grit
medium - it will eat thru wood fairly fast.
The combo sander with a 1 inch belt and disk would be of questionable utility if it were $10.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Tightening rigging
Here is another "denken experimenten" (thought experiment):
After the lines are taut - What would be the long term effect of
treating them with a liquid that hardens - making them stiff?
I am not sure what it would be - it would need to have a flat finish,
not promote (and inhibit if possible) oxidation.
An alternative would be to have the central core of the line be a
thin copper or brass wire.
Natural vegetable fiber is going to react to changes in heat and humidity
as well as undergo some relaxation of friction at the micro level of the fibers.
Synthetic substitutes would also be subject to oxidation as well as continuation
of the original polymerization reaction that produced it - the rate may be much slower
but the "plastic" characteristic will become more rigid and brittle over time. So
these are not really superior to traditional fibers.
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Jaager got a reaction from Nirvana in Workshop Advice
To answer your question about the vac pipe - doing it now would be easiest. If you do not ultimately install a
remote central vac, all you will be out is the fee for the time it takes the carpenter to drill the holes and
the cost of the plastic pipe and cement.
I would use at least 2.5" if not 4" pipe. Run the pipe to three locations: the wall with the window and each of the
walls perpendicular to that wall. There will be several "T" connectors and right angle units involved but again,
now is simple, after it is finished, it can get ugly to retro fit.
Run some 12 G Romex along with the pipe. That will make easy to supplement your power needs in the future.
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Jaager got a reaction from Nirvana in Workshop Advice
1. From my research lab days : bench space, bench space, bench space -- you can never have enough bench space.
Three walls and you have space for 3 benches. Have one higher than desk height.
Inexpensive flush interior doors - make good bench tops - glue on a plastic/vinyl surface. They come in variety of widths.
The deeper - the better you will like it. Cheap cabinet units and 2 drawer file cabinets make good bench top supports.
The tools you have will produce a LOT of dust.
2. If you can manage it - have the vac as far away ( and outside if possible ) I have no experience with Festool - but everything else
is noisy. I have to use occlusive head phone type protectors. You can have ABS piping in the ceiling going to the vac. One of the guys here
has photos of his setup with the solid vac pipes - with shut off valves since he has exhaust dedicated to each machine.
3. A cyclone trap in line will save you from having to clean the vac filter very often. You will probably be glad you did, if you get a vac that is
more powerful than you think you will need.
4. You can never have enough light.
5. Lots of shelves - high up on the walls.
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Jaager got a reaction from Seventynet in Workshop Advice
To answer your question about the vac pipe - doing it now would be easiest. If you do not ultimately install a
remote central vac, all you will be out is the fee for the time it takes the carpenter to drill the holes and
the cost of the plastic pipe and cement.
I would use at least 2.5" if not 4" pipe. Run the pipe to three locations: the wall with the window and each of the
walls perpendicular to that wall. There will be several "T" connectors and right angle units involved but again,
now is simple, after it is finished, it can get ugly to retro fit.
Run some 12 G Romex along with the pipe. That will make easy to supplement your power needs in the future.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Workshop Advice
To answer your question about the vac pipe - doing it now would be easiest. If you do not ultimately install a
remote central vac, all you will be out is the fee for the time it takes the carpenter to drill the holes and
the cost of the plastic pipe and cement.
I would use at least 2.5" if not 4" pipe. Run the pipe to three locations: the wall with the window and each of the
walls perpendicular to that wall. There will be several "T" connectors and right angle units involved but again,
now is simple, after it is finished, it can get ugly to retro fit.
Run some 12 G Romex along with the pipe. That will make easy to supplement your power needs in the future.
-
Jaager got a reaction from druxey in Workshop Advice
To answer your question about the vac pipe - doing it now would be easiest. If you do not ultimately install a
remote central vac, all you will be out is the fee for the time it takes the carpenter to drill the holes and
the cost of the plastic pipe and cement.
I would use at least 2.5" if not 4" pipe. Run the pipe to three locations: the wall with the window and each of the
walls perpendicular to that wall. There will be several "T" connectors and right angle units involved but again,
now is simple, after it is finished, it can get ugly to retro fit.
Run some 12 G Romex along with the pipe. That will make easy to supplement your power needs in the future.
-
Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Workshop Advice
To answer your question about the vac pipe - doing it now would be easiest. If you do not ultimately install a
remote central vac, all you will be out is the fee for the time it takes the carpenter to drill the holes and
the cost of the plastic pipe and cement.
I would use at least 2.5" if not 4" pipe. Run the pipe to three locations: the wall with the window and each of the
walls perpendicular to that wall. There will be several "T" connectors and right angle units involved but again,
now is simple, after it is finished, it can get ugly to retro fit.
Run some 12 G Romex along with the pipe. That will make easy to supplement your power needs in the future.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Workshop Advice
To answer your question about the vac pipe - doing it now would be easiest. If you do not ultimately install a
remote central vac, all you will be out is the fee for the time it takes the carpenter to drill the holes and
the cost of the plastic pipe and cement.
I would use at least 2.5" if not 4" pipe. Run the pipe to three locations: the wall with the window and each of the
walls perpendicular to that wall. There will be several "T" connectors and right angle units involved but again,
now is simple, after it is finished, it can get ugly to retro fit.
Run some 12 G Romex along with the pipe. That will make easy to supplement your power needs in the future.
-
Jaager got a reaction from jud in Workshop Advice
To answer your question about the vac pipe - doing it now would be easiest. If you do not ultimately install a
remote central vac, all you will be out is the fee for the time it takes the carpenter to drill the holes and
the cost of the plastic pipe and cement.
I would use at least 2.5" if not 4" pipe. Run the pipe to three locations: the wall with the window and each of the
walls perpendicular to that wall. There will be several "T" connectors and right angle units involved but again,
now is simple, after it is finished, it can get ugly to retro fit.
Run some 12 G Romex along with the pipe. That will make easy to supplement your power needs in the future.
-
Jaager reacted to mtaylor in Storing and Sorting Wood Strips
Have look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11773-hobby-wood-pile/ for starters.
and here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7789-strip-storage/
I hope this helps.
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Jaager reacted to usedtosail in Strip storage
I just implemented this method, using 2" square by 25" square mailing boxes. I cut a section of the top off so I can get the full length strips in the boxes.
I bought these on Amazon.
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Jaager got a reaction from mischief in Workshop Advice
1. From my research lab days : bench space, bench space, bench space -- you can never have enough bench space.
Three walls and you have space for 3 benches. Have one higher than desk height.
Inexpensive flush interior doors - make good bench tops - glue on a plastic/vinyl surface. They come in variety of widths.
The deeper - the better you will like it. Cheap cabinet units and 2 drawer file cabinets make good bench top supports.
The tools you have will produce a LOT of dust.
2. If you can manage it - have the vac as far away ( and outside if possible ) I have no experience with Festool - but everything else
is noisy. I have to use occlusive head phone type protectors. You can have ABS piping in the ceiling going to the vac. One of the guys here
has photos of his setup with the solid vac pipes - with shut off valves since he has exhaust dedicated to each machine.
3. A cyclone trap in line will save you from having to clean the vac filter very often. You will probably be glad you did, if you get a vac that is
more powerful than you think you will need.
4. You can never have enough light.
5. Lots of shelves - high up on the walls.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Seventynet in Workshop Advice
1. From my research lab days : bench space, bench space, bench space -- you can never have enough bench space.
Three walls and you have space for 3 benches. Have one higher than desk height.
Inexpensive flush interior doors - make good bench tops - glue on a plastic/vinyl surface. They come in variety of widths.
The deeper - the better you will like it. Cheap cabinet units and 2 drawer file cabinets make good bench top supports.
The tools you have will produce a LOT of dust.
2. If you can manage it - have the vac as far away ( and outside if possible ) I have no experience with Festool - but everything else
is noisy. I have to use occlusive head phone type protectors. You can have ABS piping in the ceiling going to the vac. One of the guys here
has photos of his setup with the solid vac pipes - with shut off valves since he has exhaust dedicated to each machine.
3. A cyclone trap in line will save you from having to clean the vac filter very often. You will probably be glad you did, if you get a vac that is
more powerful than you think you will need.
4. You can never have enough light.
5. Lots of shelves - high up on the walls.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Workshop Advice
1. From my research lab days : bench space, bench space, bench space -- you can never have enough bench space.
Three walls and you have space for 3 benches. Have one higher than desk height.
Inexpensive flush interior doors - make good bench tops - glue on a plastic/vinyl surface. They come in variety of widths.
The deeper - the better you will like it. Cheap cabinet units and 2 drawer file cabinets make good bench top supports.
The tools you have will produce a LOT of dust.
2. If you can manage it - have the vac as far away ( and outside if possible ) I have no experience with Festool - but everything else
is noisy. I have to use occlusive head phone type protectors. You can have ABS piping in the ceiling going to the vac. One of the guys here
has photos of his setup with the solid vac pipes - with shut off valves since he has exhaust dedicated to each machine.
3. A cyclone trap in line will save you from having to clean the vac filter very often. You will probably be glad you did, if you get a vac that is
more powerful than you think you will need.
4. You can never have enough light.
5. Lots of shelves - high up on the walls.
-
Jaager got a reaction from WackoWolf in Workshop Advice
1. From my research lab days : bench space, bench space, bench space -- you can never have enough bench space.
Three walls and you have space for 3 benches. Have one higher than desk height.
Inexpensive flush interior doors - make good bench tops - glue on a plastic/vinyl surface. They come in variety of widths.
The deeper - the better you will like it. Cheap cabinet units and 2 drawer file cabinets make good bench top supports.
The tools you have will produce a LOT of dust.
2. If you can manage it - have the vac as far away ( and outside if possible ) I have no experience with Festool - but everything else
is noisy. I have to use occlusive head phone type protectors. You can have ABS piping in the ceiling going to the vac. One of the guys here
has photos of his setup with the solid vac pipes - with shut off valves since he has exhaust dedicated to each machine.
3. A cyclone trap in line will save you from having to clean the vac filter very often. You will probably be glad you did, if you get a vac that is
more powerful than you think you will need.
4. You can never have enough light.
5. Lots of shelves - high up on the walls.
-
Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Workshop Advice
1. From my research lab days : bench space, bench space, bench space -- you can never have enough bench space.
Three walls and you have space for 3 benches. Have one higher than desk height.
Inexpensive flush interior doors - make good bench tops - glue on a plastic/vinyl surface. They come in variety of widths.
The deeper - the better you will like it. Cheap cabinet units and 2 drawer file cabinets make good bench top supports.
The tools you have will produce a LOT of dust.
2. If you can manage it - have the vac as far away ( and outside if possible ) I have no experience with Festool - but everything else
is noisy. I have to use occlusive head phone type protectors. You can have ABS piping in the ceiling going to the vac. One of the guys here
has photos of his setup with the solid vac pipes - with shut off valves since he has exhaust dedicated to each machine.
3. A cyclone trap in line will save you from having to clean the vac filter very often. You will probably be glad you did, if you get a vac that is
more powerful than you think you will need.
4. You can never have enough light.
5. Lots of shelves - high up on the walls.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Alan Cabrera in First carving attempt by Joop
Too late, but a stress free and precise way to drill the holes:
For small subjects, temp bond the piece to a base, mark/start the holes with a very sharp awl
and drill the holes with a drill press.
It avoids the twitch problem with free hand drilling as well as doing the hole perpendicular.
I find that the bits want to dance on the surface, and the awl produced pit avoids that.
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Jaager got a reaction from flying_dutchman2 in First carving attempt by Joop
Too late, but a stress free and precise way to drill the holes:
For small subjects, temp bond the piece to a base, mark/start the holes with a very sharp awl
and drill the holes with a drill press.
It avoids the twitch problem with free hand drilling as well as doing the hole perpendicular.
I find that the bits want to dance on the surface, and the awl produced pit avoids that.
-
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Jaager got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in First carving attempt by Joop
Too late, but a stress free and precise way to drill the holes:
For small subjects, temp bond the piece to a base, mark/start the holes with a very sharp awl
and drill the holes with a drill press.
It avoids the twitch problem with free hand drilling as well as doing the hole perpendicular.
I find that the bits want to dance on the surface, and the awl produced pit avoids that.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Hubac's Historian in First carving attempt by Joop
Too late, but a stress free and precise way to drill the holes:
For small subjects, temp bond the piece to a base, mark/start the holes with a very sharp awl
and drill the holes with a drill press.
It avoids the twitch problem with free hand drilling as well as doing the hole perpendicular.
I find that the bits want to dance on the surface, and the awl produced pit avoids that.
-
Jaager got a reaction from dgbot in First carving attempt by Joop
Too late, but a stress free and precise way to drill the holes:
For small subjects, temp bond the piece to a base, mark/start the holes with a very sharp awl
and drill the holes with a drill press.
It avoids the twitch problem with free hand drilling as well as doing the hole perpendicular.
I find that the bits want to dance on the surface, and the awl produced pit avoids that.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Joop-Ham in First carving attempt by Joop
Too late, but a stress free and precise way to drill the holes:
For small subjects, temp bond the piece to a base, mark/start the holes with a very sharp awl
and drill the holes with a drill press.
It avoids the twitch problem with free hand drilling as well as doing the hole perpendicular.
I find that the bits want to dance on the surface, and the awl produced pit avoids that.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Martin W in Carving tools, books and carving woods discussion
Mike,
Swiss Pear is not a variety of pear. Pyrus communis is the common European Pear.
It is used as root stock for fruit pear varieties? The tree itself does not produce desirable
fruit but is a horticultural specimen? If the wood is steamed, it turns a uniform pink.
This treatment is the "Swiss" part. I believe that the wood from any type of pear -
Asian or European is excellent for any part of a wooden ship model: from keel and
frames to spars. If your stock did not split and check into useless fragments as it
dried or bark beetles did not mine it out , you may come to regret shortening the pieces.
Most any pear wood has a color that looks good as keel, frames and planking. It is
hard, tight grained, does not easily split if you carve against the grain - and seems
almost ivory-like in consistency.
When I posted earlier about Bradford Pear not having tight grain, that was the wrong term,
what I meant was that the tree grows rapidly - so the bands of Spring and Summer woods are
wide. For some parts it is possible to have what shows be grain free - all of one season. I have a bit of
Boxwood from an old hedge that had grown very slowly. The rings are very narrow and very
close together.
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