Jaager

I have no doubt that this is a frequent occurrence with the older POB kits from some companies.
I do question the explanation.  Wood is fairly to significantly old before it is even harvested.
Once felled, the wood will then have its original water content reduced to ambient humidity (seasoning).
How long this takes involves a number of factors - thickness being a major one.  From then on wood will
change its concentration of water to be in balance with the humidity of its surrounding air.
 
I propose that the major problem with these older kits lies with the choice of wood species selected for inclusion in the kit.
From day one with these kits it is GIGO as far as how the wood behaves.  Using glue, finishing agents, paint, etc.  will alter how it responds over time.
 
However you factor this out,  our dominant investment by far is: TIME.
We never get it back. 
We will never be compensated at any hourly rate commensurate with that of professionals doing similar skill level jobs.
Quality wood does not fight you at ever step.  Its presentation is more appropriate.
 
Your time would be better spent building quality kits.  The intangible feeling is more pleasurable.
If you are determined to proceed with this,  your experience will be more rewarding if you were to replace every wooden part with a quality wood.  Use the original wood as patterns where this is worth doing.  If the cost of the second hand kit does not make this economical to do, you would be spending too much.

I have in mind the concept that spars were not exactly a straight line taper.   Is it not a curve with a slope that increases - with most of the increase in the outer quarter?  A very shallow ellipse?
 
Now that I visualize it. A jig with parallel sides and a shim that slides under the spar.  The shim would allow for an elliptical profile.
I think the process would be significantly faster than a lathe.  Planing along the grain would mimic the action of an adz and not leave a surface that is a series of concentric rings - which is what a lathe does. 

I have no doubt that this is a frequent occurrence with the older POB kits from some companies.
I do question the explanation.  Wood is fairly to significantly old before it is even harvested.
Once felled, the wood will then have its original water content reduced to ambient humidity (seasoning).
How long this takes involves a number of factors - thickness being a major one.  From then on wood will
change its concentration of water to be in balance with the humidity of its surrounding air.
 
I propose that the major problem with these older kits lies with the choice of wood species selected for inclusion in the kit.
From day one with these kits it is GIGO as far as how the wood behaves.  Using glue, finishing agents, paint, etc.  will alter how it responds over time.
 
However you factor this out,  our dominant investment by far is: TIME.
We never get it back. 
We will never be compensated at any hourly rate commensurate with that of professionals doing similar skill level jobs.
Quality wood does not fight you at ever step.  Its presentation is more appropriate.
 
Your time would be better spent building quality kits.  The intangible feeling is more pleasurable.
If you are determined to proceed with this,  your experience will be more rewarding if you were to replace every wooden part with a quality wood.  Use the original wood as patterns where this is worth doing.  If the cost of the second hand kit does not make this economical to do, you would be spending too much.

Karl,
I agree about the size of the Proxxon.  I agree with your evaluation of the machine. 
I am always on the watch for something better and am fortunate to be able to afford the search.
Your presentation did refocus my attention.  I did another search for an a grinder with an angle between 0 degrees and 90 degrees.  If only Foredom Flex had that attachment!
All I found was a series of air driven tools for automotive use.  There was one on sale at Harbor Freight - electric - acute angle - not enough acute and pretty fat.  I thought about it, but after sleeping on it - I have decided to give it a pass.  Remembering fighting with the chuck and the length of the 1",2",3" Chinese disks on the Kaleas angle grinder ( MM is their agent in the US - rebranded ) I reevaluated my preconception about how large the cutting surface on the disk should be.   I think I can use the larger disk that comes with it and use fine touch and finesse to get almost everywhere inside the hull.  The machine does a trick (works well) on shaping  the outside - quickly.   I have an advantage over your method as far as shaping without damaging the edges of the frames.  I have Pine fillers where the spaces are.  They have an easily reversible bond - to punch them out when the hull is final.  (I am still working on finding the perfect glue to temporarily hold them and let go and disappear.)   Centurion is on the stocks because the disappear part using Scotch double sided tape did not work out all that well. I got frustrated with that fiddly bit.  It is tight in there between the frames!
 
I wonder if years down the road, you will wish you had chosen the complete hull  1:60 option  - my HMS Centurion 60 1732  is 1:60 and I like the size. 50% of the volume of the 1:48.

I got a Bridge City mini block plane with depth skids (HP-8).  It looks scrupled; the best part is that the sides can be adjusted to set the height of the plane.  The plane is about 4” (100 mm) long, with a working width of 1.25” (33 mm).
 

Recently, I was running out of 1 mm thick material for steps.  I had 1.5 mm material so I set the mini plane to 1 mm height (using some 1 mm material) and planed the 1.5 mm material –  it works fine.  And it looks cool.
 

 

I have done the thought experiment of how to place a strake - that looks like a strake - made up of two different species of wood and have them butt at the waterline and have all of the other strakes that cross the waterline - when seen together - have that waterline appear to be a straight line.  There are at least two variables in play with this.   I think juggling one ball at a time is enough for me.   Just running the bottom planking as is normal starting below the wale as a single species - seems to be the best way to keep sane.
 
The early ANCRE volumes came with a sheet of color chips.
I have a vague recollection that EAR Jr.  had early 19th century color chips in the journal - As long as they were based on mineral paints, they should be valid as likely shades possible  - for thousands, if not millions of years.

I have no doubt that this is a frequent occurrence with the older POB kits from some companies.
I do question the explanation.  Wood is fairly to significantly old before it is even harvested.
Once felled, the wood will then have its original water content reduced to ambient humidity (seasoning).
How long this takes involves a number of factors - thickness being a major one.  From then on wood will
change its concentration of water to be in balance with the humidity of its surrounding air.
 
I propose that the major problem with these older kits lies with the choice of wood species selected for inclusion in the kit.
From day one with these kits it is GIGO as far as how the wood behaves.  Using glue, finishing agents, paint, etc.  will alter how it responds over time.
 
However you factor this out,  our dominant investment by far is: TIME.
We never get it back. 
We will never be compensated at any hourly rate commensurate with that of professionals doing similar skill level jobs.
Quality wood does not fight you at ever step.  Its presentation is more appropriate.
 
Your time would be better spent building quality kits.  The intangible feeling is more pleasurable.
If you are determined to proceed with this,  your experience will be more rewarding if you were to replace every wooden part with a quality wood.  Use the original wood as patterns where this is worth doing.  If the cost of the second hand kit does not make this economical to do, you would be spending too much.

I have no doubt that this is a frequent occurrence with the older POB kits from some companies.
I do question the explanation.  Wood is fairly to significantly old before it is even harvested.
Once felled, the wood will then have its original water content reduced to ambient humidity (seasoning).
How long this takes involves a number of factors - thickness being a major one.  From then on wood will
change its concentration of water to be in balance with the humidity of its surrounding air.
 
I propose that the major problem with these older kits lies with the choice of wood species selected for inclusion in the kit.
From day one with these kits it is GIGO as far as how the wood behaves.  Using glue, finishing agents, paint, etc.  will alter how it responds over time.
 
However you factor this out,  our dominant investment by far is: TIME.
We never get it back. 
We will never be compensated at any hourly rate commensurate with that of professionals doing similar skill level jobs.
Quality wood does not fight you at ever step.  Its presentation is more appropriate.
 
Your time would be better spent building quality kits.  The intangible feeling is more pleasurable.
If you are determined to proceed with this,  your experience will be more rewarding if you were to replace every wooden part with a quality wood.  Use the original wood as patterns where this is worth doing.  If the cost of the second hand kit does not make this economical to do, you would be spending too much.

You might get a more informed response at Renderosity or DAZ.
I think that Poser and DAZ Studio have better tools than Blender for dealing with biologicals - humans and animals.
I have been out of that world for about 10 years.

I have no doubt that this is a frequent occurrence with the older POB kits from some companies.
I do question the explanation.  Wood is fairly to significantly old before it is even harvested.
Once felled, the wood will then have its original water content reduced to ambient humidity (seasoning).
How long this takes involves a number of factors - thickness being a major one.  From then on wood will
change its concentration of water to be in balance with the humidity of its surrounding air.
 
I propose that the major problem with these older kits lies with the choice of wood species selected for inclusion in the kit.
From day one with these kits it is GIGO as far as how the wood behaves.  Using glue, finishing agents, paint, etc.  will alter how it responds over time.
 
However you factor this out,  our dominant investment by far is: TIME.
We never get it back. 
We will never be compensated at any hourly rate commensurate with that of professionals doing similar skill level jobs.
Quality wood does not fight you at ever step.  Its presentation is more appropriate.
 
Your time would be better spent building quality kits.  The intangible feeling is more pleasurable.
If you are determined to proceed with this,  your experience will be more rewarding if you were to replace every wooden part with a quality wood.  Use the original wood as patterns where this is worth doing.  If the cost of the second hand kit does not make this economical to do, you would be spending too much.

I have no doubt that this is a frequent occurrence with the older POB kits from some companies.
I do question the explanation.  Wood is fairly to significantly old before it is even harvested.
Once felled, the wood will then have its original water content reduced to ambient humidity (seasoning).
How long this takes involves a number of factors - thickness being a major one.  From then on wood will
change its concentration of water to be in balance with the humidity of its surrounding air.
 
I propose that the major problem with these older kits lies with the choice of wood species selected for inclusion in the kit.
From day one with these kits it is GIGO as far as how the wood behaves.  Using glue, finishing agents, paint, etc.  will alter how it responds over time.
 
However you factor this out,  our dominant investment by far is: TIME.
We never get it back. 
We will never be compensated at any hourly rate commensurate with that of professionals doing similar skill level jobs.
Quality wood does not fight you at ever step.  Its presentation is more appropriate.
 
Your time would be better spent building quality kits.  The intangible feeling is more pleasurable.
If you are determined to proceed with this,  your experience will be more rewarding if you were to replace every wooden part with a quality wood.  Use the original wood as patterns where this is worth doing.  If the cost of the second hand kit does not make this economical to do, you would be spending too much.

I have no doubt that this is a frequent occurrence with the older POB kits from some companies.
I do question the explanation.  Wood is fairly to significantly old before it is even harvested.
Once felled, the wood will then have its original water content reduced to ambient humidity (seasoning).
How long this takes involves a number of factors - thickness being a major one.  From then on wood will
change its concentration of water to be in balance with the humidity of its surrounding air.
 
I propose that the major problem with these older kits lies with the choice of wood species selected for inclusion in the kit.
From day one with these kits it is GIGO as far as how the wood behaves.  Using glue, finishing agents, paint, etc.  will alter how it responds over time.
 
However you factor this out,  our dominant investment by far is: TIME.
We never get it back. 
We will never be compensated at any hourly rate commensurate with that of professionals doing similar skill level jobs.
Quality wood does not fight you at ever step.  Its presentation is more appropriate.
 
Your time would be better spent building quality kits.  The intangible feeling is more pleasurable.
If you are determined to proceed with this,  your experience will be more rewarding if you were to replace every wooden part with a quality wood.  Use the original wood as patterns where this is worth doing.  If the cost of the second hand kit does not make this economical to do, you would be spending too much.

Moran tugs have an ongoing presence here in the lower Bay.
There is a Dumas kit for Carol Moran
Plans for Moran tugs do not jump out at you.
 
If you want a Revolutionary War vessel - There are NMM plans for the frigate Roebuck -  a first generation sister was Charon - who's  coppered lower hull is still on the bottom of the York right at where your daughter lives (I think). 
 
Any of the NMM plans for Revolution War era British sailing merchantmen could stand for the ones sunk during the Yorktown campaign.
 
 
I searched for plans for the tug Dorothy 1891 - Newport News Shipbuilding and Drydock hull #1
DOROTHY: HULL NUMBER ONE COMES HOME
FOX,WM A
NAUTICAL RESEARCH JOURNAL
1976
22
183-202  
STEAM BOAT NA 19TH
A
DOROTHY
This article contains a full set of plans -  The CD ....
 

I have done the thought experiment of how to place a strake - that looks like a strake - made up of two different species of wood and have them butt at the waterline and have all of the other strakes that cross the waterline - when seen together - have that waterline appear to be a straight line.  There are at least two variables in play with this.   I think juggling one ball at a time is enough for me.   Just running the bottom planking as is normal starting below the wale as a single species - seems to be the best way to keep sane.
 
The early ANCRE volumes came with a sheet of color chips.
I have a vague recollection that EAR Jr.  had early 19th century color chips in the journal - As long as they were based on mineral paints, they should be valid as likely shades possible  - for thousands, if not millions of years.

I have done the thought experiment of how to place a strake - that looks like a strake - made up of two different species of wood and have them butt at the waterline and have all of the other strakes that cross the waterline - when seen together - have that waterline appear to be a straight line.  There are at least two variables in play with this.   I think juggling one ball at a time is enough for me.   Just running the bottom planking as is normal starting below the wale as a single species - seems to be the best way to keep sane.
 
The early ANCRE volumes came with a sheet of color chips.
I have a vague recollection that EAR Jr.  had early 19th century color chips in the journal - As long as they were based on mineral paints, they should be valid as likely shades possible  - for thousands, if not millions of years.

I have done the thought experiment of how to place a strake - that looks like a strake - made up of two different species of wood and have them butt at the waterline and have all of the other strakes that cross the waterline - when seen together - have that waterline appear to be a straight line.  There are at least two variables in play with this.   I think juggling one ball at a time is enough for me.   Just running the bottom planking as is normal starting below the wale as a single species - seems to be the best way to keep sane.
 
The early ANCRE volumes came with a sheet of color chips.
I have a vague recollection that EAR Jr.  had early 19th century color chips in the journal - As long as they were based on mineral paints, they should be valid as likely shades possible  - for thousands, if not millions of years.

I have done the thought experiment of how to place a strake - that looks like a strake - made up of two different species of wood and have them butt at the waterline and have all of the other strakes that cross the waterline - when seen together - have that waterline appear to be a straight line.  There are at least two variables in play with this.   I think juggling one ball at a time is enough for me.   Just running the bottom planking as is normal starting below the wale as a single species - seems to be the best way to keep sane.
 
The early ANCRE volumes came with a sheet of color chips.
I have a vague recollection that EAR Jr.  had early 19th century color chips in the journal - As long as they were based on mineral paints, they should be valid as likely shades possible  - for thousands, if not millions of years.

Moran tugs have an ongoing presence here in the lower Bay.
There is a Dumas kit for Carol Moran
Plans for Moran tugs do not jump out at you.
 
If you want a Revolutionary War vessel - There are NMM plans for the frigate Roebuck -  a first generation sister was Charon - who's  coppered lower hull is still on the bottom of the York right at where your daughter lives (I think). 
 
Any of the NMM plans for Revolution War era British sailing merchantmen could stand for the ones sunk during the Yorktown campaign.
 
 
I searched for plans for the tug Dorothy 1891 - Newport News Shipbuilding and Drydock hull #1
DOROTHY: HULL NUMBER ONE COMES HOME
FOX,WM A
NAUTICAL RESEARCH JOURNAL
1976
22
183-202  
STEAM BOAT NA 19TH
A
DOROTHY
This article contains a full set of plans -  The CD ....
 

I think that I still have a large scale set of plans for Dorothy.  Back in the ‘80’s NRG held a conference at Point Comfort, VA and I met someone from NNSD who sent them to me.  If you decide to build a model of her I would be happy to send them to you.
 
Roger

Moran tugs have an ongoing presence here in the lower Bay.
There is a Dumas kit for Carol Moran
Plans for Moran tugs do not jump out at you.
 
If you want a Revolutionary War vessel - There are NMM plans for the frigate Roebuck -  a first generation sister was Charon - who's  coppered lower hull is still on the bottom of the York right at where your daughter lives (I think). 
 
Any of the NMM plans for Revolution War era British sailing merchantmen could stand for the ones sunk during the Yorktown campaign.
 
 
I searched for plans for the tug Dorothy 1891 - Newport News Shipbuilding and Drydock hull #1
DOROTHY: HULL NUMBER ONE COMES HOME
FOX,WM A
NAUTICAL RESEARCH JOURNAL
1976
22
183-202  
STEAM BOAT NA 19TH
A
DOROTHY
This article contains a full set of plans -  The CD ....
 

I looked again -  and brick is a bit small   
4"x11"   6"x9    pick a size and hope it matches your need .
I also made a smaller "table"  with a 1" foam top.  I made holes in it to hold my carving chisels - the height set to keep the tips hanging suspended, but the base is a layer of foam "just in case" it is not high enough.  The suspension keeps the blades in view so I can see which is which - side slots hold my scrapers - you want a set of small size luthier's scrapers -  shop - boy is there a wide range of prices  for a set like this:

Peachtree's $25 does not seem that bad.

I question if something that  ..... fixed .... specifically organized..?  would serve very well  with ship modeling - which has many varied stages - each with different tools.
 
I have had good luck   using project Styrofoam.
2 inches thick - about the size of a brick --  Home Depot sells smaller sheets of 1" project Styrofoam 
It is porous -so PVA will bond two cut to size pieces  which is then glued to a 1/2" plywood base with a lip/porch on all 4 sides - a longer porch on one side makes for a handy stage for in-use tools.
Punch holes in the top of the foam using the tool handles and they standup - fixed - visible and ready to grab -  there can be a different brick for each type of work. Easy to move and store.
 
PVA will not melt it - most plastic glues will - a hot glue gun was a disaster -  PVA does not work with most plastic but most plastic is not full of tiny holes.

I looked again -  and brick is a bit small   
4"x11"   6"x9    pick a size and hope it matches your need .
I also made a smaller "table"  with a 1" foam top.  I made holes in it to hold my carving chisels - the height set to keep the tips hanging suspended, but the base is a layer of foam "just in case" it is not high enough.  The suspension keeps the blades in view so I can see which is which - side slots hold my scrapers - you want a set of small size luthier's scrapers -  shop - boy is there a wide range of prices  for a set like this:

Peachtree's $25 does not seem that bad.

I looked again -  and brick is a bit small   
4"x11"   6"x9    pick a size and hope it matches your need .
I also made a smaller "table"  with a 1" foam top.  I made holes in it to hold my carving chisels - the height set to keep the tips hanging suspended, but the base is a layer of foam "just in case" it is not high enough.  The suspension keeps the blades in view so I can see which is which - side slots hold my scrapers - you want a set of small size luthier's scrapers -  shop - boy is there a wide range of prices  for a set like this:

Peachtree's $25 does not seem that bad.

I question if something that  ..... fixed .... specifically organized..?  would serve very well  with ship modeling - which has many varied stages - each with different tools.
 
I have had good luck   using project Styrofoam.
2 inches thick - about the size of a brick --  Home Depot sells smaller sheets of 1" project Styrofoam 
It is porous -so PVA will bond two cut to size pieces  which is then glued to a 1/2" plywood base with a lip/porch on all 4 sides - a longer porch on one side makes for a handy stage for in-use tools.
Punch holes in the top of the foam using the tool handles and they standup - fixed - visible and ready to grab -  there can be a different brick for each type of work. Easy to move and store.
 
PVA will not melt it - most plastic glues will - a hot glue gun was a disaster -  PVA does not work with most plastic but most plastic is not full of tiny holes.