Jaager

A floating vessel is like a living thing.  It is subject to many forces that cause the structural parts to flex, rack, and twist.  The keel does not always move the same as the bottom planking.  The seam where the garboard plank meets the keel needs to be as strong and leak proof as can be had.  
A static model is only subject to micro movements.  As long as the joint of the garboard with keel looks as though it is secure and water tight, it does not need to be a rabbet.   
The rabbet is a "thing" with scratch builders whose object is to mimic actual practice.  With a POB or full planked solid or POF hull, a straight butt joint runs the danger of separating with an unsightly gap if time and temp and humidity flux acts in that way.  "You pays your money and takes your chances."
 
A hint for the garboard:  the edge that meets the keel, stem and sternpost is a straight line from tip to tip.  Any wood removal is done on the outer edge.  Removing wood from the edge where it curves up the stem gives it the wrong shape.  It really messes up the rest of the bow planking. 

A floating vessel is like a living thing.  It is subject to many forces that cause the structural parts to flex, rack, and twist.  The keel does not always move the same as the bottom planking.  The seam where the garboard plank meets the keel needs to be as strong and leak proof as can be had.  
A static model is only subject to micro movements.  As long as the joint of the garboard with keel looks as though it is secure and water tight, it does not need to be a rabbet.   
The rabbet is a "thing" with scratch builders whose object is to mimic actual practice.  With a POB or full planked solid or POF hull, a straight butt joint runs the danger of separating with an unsightly gap if time and temp and humidity flux acts in that way.  "You pays your money and takes your chances."
 
A hint for the garboard:  the edge that meets the keel, stem and sternpost is a straight line from tip to tip.  Any wood removal is done on the outer edge.  Removing wood from the edge where it curves up the stem gives it the wrong shape.  It really messes up the rest of the bow planking. 

A floating vessel is like a living thing.  It is subject to many forces that cause the structural parts to flex, rack, and twist.  The keel does not always move the same as the bottom planking.  The seam where the garboard plank meets the keel needs to be as strong and leak proof as can be had.  
A static model is only subject to micro movements.  As long as the joint of the garboard with keel looks as though it is secure and water tight, it does not need to be a rabbet.   
The rabbet is a "thing" with scratch builders whose object is to mimic actual practice.  With a POB or full planked solid or POF hull, a straight butt joint runs the danger of separating with an unsightly gap if time and temp and humidity flux acts in that way.  "You pays your money and takes your chances."
 
A hint for the garboard:  the edge that meets the keel, stem and sternpost is a straight line from tip to tip.  Any wood removal is done on the outer edge.  Removing wood from the edge where it curves up the stem gives it the wrong shape.  It really messes up the rest of the bow planking. 

A floating vessel is like a living thing.  It is subject to many forces that cause the structural parts to flex, rack, and twist.  The keel does not always move the same as the bottom planking.  The seam where the garboard plank meets the keel needs to be as strong and leak proof as can be had.  
A static model is only subject to micro movements.  As long as the joint of the garboard with keel looks as though it is secure and water tight, it does not need to be a rabbet.   
The rabbet is a "thing" with scratch builders whose object is to mimic actual practice.  With a POB or full planked solid or POF hull, a straight butt joint runs the danger of separating with an unsightly gap if time and temp and humidity flux acts in that way.  "You pays your money and takes your chances."
 
A hint for the garboard:  the edge that meets the keel, stem and sternpost is a straight line from tip to tip.  Any wood removal is done on the outer edge.  Removing wood from the edge where it curves up the stem gives it the wrong shape.  It really messes up the rest of the bow planking. 

Both books in Mike's newsletter sound like they will be winners. 
It is a win for all of us that he could get Grant Walker back on board with the Annapolis project.

Both books in Mike's newsletter sound like they will be winners. 
It is a win for all of us that he could get Grant Walker back on board with the Annapolis project.

Both books in Mike's newsletter sound like they will be winners. 
It is a win for all of us that he could get Grant Walker back on board with the Annapolis project.

Both books in Mike's newsletter sound like they will be winners. 
It is a win for all of us that he could get Grant Walker back on board with the Annapolis project.

There is a sort of Catch 22 involved.
Anyone interested would already have their own library. Buying duplicates, especially at near retail?
A beginner?,  not unless they are foolishly rich.
Books of the sort in question are not an investment.
 
When my number comes up, I figure that a bequest that my library is kept as a whole will also require a substantial trust be included to maintain it as such. 

The site admin would be who probably has the answer to this question.
It is in the outside sponsor link section.  So even now it is a "relying of the kindness of strangers" presence.
 
This question is an irresistible  opportunity to wax philosophical.  
 
The database seems to have been a solo project.  A gift from a then undergrad for whom the demands of life made continuing it impractical.  It has been 2 years since he was last here.  If he follows the usual pattern,  he will be back to serious ship modeling in 30-40 years.  
It is a useful resource.  Even more useful if more data such as quality and accuracy were added.   Value judgements need an unbiased and objective filter.
This would be a lot of work.  With the elimination of slavery, about the only way to make the effort worthwhile is to pay enough to make it attractive.  This is not a pay site.  If it was a pay site,  the forum could be mined to produce a FAQ that would totally eclipse any how-to book.
 
Seeing a need is a fairly common occurrence.  Having the skill and enthusiasm to begin to fill the need happens from time to time.   Maintaining the initial enthusiasm beyond the initiation when the reward is the thanks of those served is a fantasy.   The degree of masochism required would have to come from a mind that did not have the capacity  to do the job to begin with.  The specie reward factor is unrealistic.   If evidence is wanted,  just check out how few of the members here are also members of the NRG.

The site admin would be who probably has the answer to this question.
It is in the outside sponsor link section.  So even now it is a "relying of the kindness of strangers" presence.
 
This question is an irresistible  opportunity to wax philosophical.  
 
The database seems to have been a solo project.  A gift from a then undergrad for whom the demands of life made continuing it impractical.  It has been 2 years since he was last here.  If he follows the usual pattern,  he will be back to serious ship modeling in 30-40 years.  
It is a useful resource.  Even more useful if more data such as quality and accuracy were added.   Value judgements need an unbiased and objective filter.
This would be a lot of work.  With the elimination of slavery, about the only way to make the effort worthwhile is to pay enough to make it attractive.  This is not a pay site.  If it was a pay site,  the forum could be mined to produce a FAQ that would totally eclipse any how-to book.
 
Seeing a need is a fairly common occurrence.  Having the skill and enthusiasm to begin to fill the need happens from time to time.   Maintaining the initial enthusiasm beyond the initiation when the reward is the thanks of those served is a fantasy.   The degree of masochism required would have to come from a mind that did not have the capacity  to do the job to begin with.  The specie reward factor is unrealistic.   If evidence is wanted,  just check out how few of the members here are also members of the NRG.

The site admin would be who probably has the answer to this question.
It is in the outside sponsor link section.  So even now it is a "relying of the kindness of strangers" presence.
 
This question is an irresistible  opportunity to wax philosophical.  
 
The database seems to have been a solo project.  A gift from a then undergrad for whom the demands of life made continuing it impractical.  It has been 2 years since he was last here.  If he follows the usual pattern,  he will be back to serious ship modeling in 30-40 years.  
It is a useful resource.  Even more useful if more data such as quality and accuracy were added.   Value judgements need an unbiased and objective filter.
This would be a lot of work.  With the elimination of slavery, about the only way to make the effort worthwhile is to pay enough to make it attractive.  This is not a pay site.  If it was a pay site,  the forum could be mined to produce a FAQ that would totally eclipse any how-to book.
 
Seeing a need is a fairly common occurrence.  Having the skill and enthusiasm to begin to fill the need happens from time to time.   Maintaining the initial enthusiasm beyond the initiation when the reward is the thanks of those served is a fantasy.   The degree of masochism required would have to come from a mind that did not have the capacity  to do the job to begin with.  The specie reward factor is unrealistic.   If evidence is wanted,  just check out how few of the members here are also members of the NRG.

Mike,
 
Your list reminded me of a trail that I gave thought to when I was wading into this.
 
To continue with your theme but broaden your possibilities, skill, and confidence,
The deadrise boats, skipjacks, and log canoes of the Bay can be a side branch investigation.
These were built by backyard builders, not schooled in the art.
There is a paperback by Steve Rogers covering a skipjack - the methods are a bit eccentric compared to the methods done here.
H.I. Chapelle wrote a paperback - "Notes on..."  that is available second hand.
Ben Lankford  wrote a paperback to accompany the model of the Willie J Bennett that he developed for Model Shipways, that may possibly be found second hand.
The S.I. has skipjack plans for sale.  The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum used to sell actual blue prints for various Bay fishing craft.
 
My point is that this branch is a very approachable area for a first time scratch build.  It does not require a second mortgage to obtain the needed tools and wood.  It just requires and interest in the subject.   
 
You have been wise in your path so far.  If you are tempted by the flash of lots of guns, liners, frigates, clippers, etc.  be mindful: that way lays a time sink and possible quicksand.  When you know, when you do not have to ask if you should,  that is when those can be essayed with confidence.

Mark,
I will take on the role of curmudgeon for this. and advise this:
 
Take good care of and store your collection carefully.  You may wind up selling off many of them.
 
Two of the camps here are
1) kits as a gateway to scratch building (a small group)
2) kits as an end in themselves 
If you catch bug number 1  ....
If you are one for whom what is popular or sticking to the well trod paths are things to be avoided......
 
The OcCre kit is probably best kept for last.  Not up to the quality of the others  and a full set of 3 masts and all that rigging plus lots of guns.
 
The MS Flying Fish is a 1850's era large clipper,  The kit is 1:96 scale.  There is a lot of detailed rigging and a scale that requires art and finesse to do well.  It is a real challenge to do well.
 
The hull of the whaleboat is  just a step beyond what you are doing.  This kit is about the equipment details.  There is a small book by a former NRJ editor.  There are articles in the CDs in probably all three journals that are for sale here.
 
For the fishing vessels,  HIC wrote a book that provides graduate level details.
 
For the solid hulls,  check out StewMac for good quality rasps.  I doubt that a POB kit mold is sturdy enough  for a rasp.
 
If you want your expenditure to pay off, try to avoid the historian,  topic specialization, and explore new paths bugs.
 
 

Mark,
I will take on the role of curmudgeon for this. and advise this:
 
Take good care of and store your collection carefully.  You may wind up selling off many of them.
 
Two of the camps here are
1) kits as a gateway to scratch building (a small group)
2) kits as an end in themselves 
If you catch bug number 1  ....
If you are one for whom what is popular or sticking to the well trod paths are things to be avoided......
 
The OcCre kit is probably best kept for last.  Not up to the quality of the others  and a full set of 3 masts and all that rigging plus lots of guns.
 
The MS Flying Fish is a 1850's era large clipper,  The kit is 1:96 scale.  There is a lot of detailed rigging and a scale that requires art and finesse to do well.  It is a real challenge to do well.
 
The hull of the whaleboat is  just a step beyond what you are doing.  This kit is about the equipment details.  There is a small book by a former NRJ editor.  There are articles in the CDs in probably all three journals that are for sale here.
 
For the fishing vessels,  HIC wrote a book that provides graduate level details.
 
For the solid hulls,  check out StewMac for good quality rasps.  I doubt that a POB kit mold is sturdy enough  for a rasp.
 
If you want your expenditure to pay off, try to avoid the historian,  topic specialization, and explore new paths bugs.
 
 

Mark,
I will take on the role of curmudgeon for this. and advise this:
 
Take good care of and store your collection carefully.  You may wind up selling off many of them.
 
Two of the camps here are
1) kits as a gateway to scratch building (a small group)
2) kits as an end in themselves 
If you catch bug number 1  ....
If you are one for whom what is popular or sticking to the well trod paths are things to be avoided......
 
The OcCre kit is probably best kept for last.  Not up to the quality of the others  and a full set of 3 masts and all that rigging plus lots of guns.
 
The MS Flying Fish is a 1850's era large clipper,  The kit is 1:96 scale.  There is a lot of detailed rigging and a scale that requires art and finesse to do well.  It is a real challenge to do well.
 
The hull of the whaleboat is  just a step beyond what you are doing.  This kit is about the equipment details.  There is a small book by a former NRJ editor.  There are articles in the CDs in probably all three journals that are for sale here.
 
For the fishing vessels,  HIC wrote a book that provides graduate level details.
 
For the solid hulls,  check out StewMac for good quality rasps.  I doubt that a POB kit mold is sturdy enough  for a rasp.
 
If you want your expenditure to pay off, try to avoid the historian,  topic specialization, and explore new paths bugs.
 
 

Mark,
I will take on the role of curmudgeon for this. and advise this:
 
Take good care of and store your collection carefully.  You may wind up selling off many of them.
 
Two of the camps here are
1) kits as a gateway to scratch building (a small group)
2) kits as an end in themselves 
If you catch bug number 1  ....
If you are one for whom what is popular or sticking to the well trod paths are things to be avoided......
 
The OcCre kit is probably best kept for last.  Not up to the quality of the others  and a full set of 3 masts and all that rigging plus lots of guns.
 
The MS Flying Fish is a 1850's era large clipper,  The kit is 1:96 scale.  There is a lot of detailed rigging and a scale that requires art and finesse to do well.  It is a real challenge to do well.
 
The hull of the whaleboat is  just a step beyond what you are doing.  This kit is about the equipment details.  There is a small book by a former NRJ editor.  There are articles in the CDs in probably all three journals that are for sale here.
 
For the fishing vessels,  HIC wrote a book that provides graduate level details.
 
For the solid hulls,  check out StewMac for good quality rasps.  I doubt that a POB kit mold is sturdy enough  for a rasp.
 
If you want your expenditure to pay off, try to avoid the historian,  topic specialization, and explore new paths bugs.
 
 

Maple, Beech, Birch, Holly*.  White Pine
 
Lime is really pushing it, but Basswood is too soft and fuzzy to provide a crisp look.
 
* I saw in the Wood Database that there is a European Holly.  This Holly is not the snow white color of American Holly.  It is actually a similar golden as is the first three above.  So, the use of the white Holly for deck planking is actually a misunderstanding.

By precut, do you mean 8x4, 4x4, 3/4" lumber?
A bandsaw will get you close to final thickness, but even the finest bandsaw blade will leave a surface that needs additional treatment.
A thickness sander does that and the Byrnes model is the best.
 
A 9" or 10" bench top bandsaw is a source of frustration for serious resawing.
An under powered 14" bandsaw with unreliable tracking and low quality guides is something you do not want.  

Dave,
What you write indicates that you intend to build POB.  That is an absolute 11 footer for me, but I offer the following:
 
Long ago I bought the MM low end scroll saw.  I found it unacceptable from the beginning.  It is under powered, the blade clamps do not hold all that well,  The up/down cutting action has the stock wanting to chatter.  It just takes up shelf space and collects dust. 
IF you buy a powered scroll saw, going as high a quality as you can afford will save you endless frustration.
I do significant scroll cutting of frame timbers, but a rough close enough is good enough is all that I need. What I cut is often 1/4" Hard Maple.  There is no way the MM scroll saw could handle that.  I use a generic 9" bandsaw with a Carter Stabilizer..  That saw is adequate for that job, but not much else.  
For POB and having to cut out a central spine and molds every couple of years or so,  you may be better served using a high quality Knew Concepts hand scroll saw.
 
I find the combo 1" belt sander/5" disk sander to be mostly junk.
Unless you are going to sand plastic , the Byrnes disk sander is as good as it gets.
 
If you have to ask, a 10" table saw is probably a bad idea.  It is the least efficient and most dangerous way to mill scale timber from lumber.
For getting planks and deck furniture from scale thickness stock,  a Byrnes table saw is a magnitude better than its nearest compare.

I think you are basically screwed if you get CA on a visible surface.   If you using it on a surface that is too large for the whole to be treated before placement without the first part setting up, it is the wrong glue.   If you are determined to use CA, see if you can find a flavor with a longer open time.
 
I mostly use a single edge razor blade or #11 blade to remove PVA squeeze out.
 
 
Franklin Hide Glue has a LOT of water.  For planking that is veneer thickness, it is probably too much water.  For a permanent  bond, I would use Old Brown Glue.  For veneer thickness, I would probably use flake in a hot pot.  
PVA is so much more convenient,  I have to make a compromise with what was 17th century material.   
 
Hide glue is a protein.  Hot ethanol will completely denature it.  Zero bond.
I tried using it as a reversible bond.  Even on a pilot schooner @ 1:60 the depth of the bond on the moulded dimension face of the frames is too deep for hot ethanol to work without the blast area also affecting the PVA bonds ho;ding the actual frames together.  I know that I could have used newspaper and or spots instead of a double coat of hide glue.  The paper part is too many additional steps for me and the spots - well I am a bit compulsive and pre-programmed. 
I am not happy with Scotch Double Sided tape as a frame spacer reversible bonder,  because of how difficult the residue is to remove from those tight spaces - why HMS Centurion is still on the stocks.   A next hull will probably be done using rubber cement. The debonder - n-heptane - does not affect PVA or wood.

By precut, do you mean 8x4, 4x4, 3/4" lumber?
A bandsaw will get you close to final thickness, but even the finest bandsaw blade will leave a surface that needs additional treatment.
A thickness sander does that and the Byrnes model is the best.
 
A 9" or 10" bench top bandsaw is a source of frustration for serious resawing.
An under powered 14" bandsaw with unreliable tracking and low quality guides is something you do not want.  

Dave,
What you write indicates that you intend to build POB.  That is an absolute 11 footer for me, but I offer the following:
 
Long ago I bought the MM low end scroll saw.  I found it unacceptable from the beginning.  It is under powered, the blade clamps do not hold all that well,  The up/down cutting action has the stock wanting to chatter.  It just takes up shelf space and collects dust. 
IF you buy a powered scroll saw, going as high a quality as you can afford will save you endless frustration.
I do significant scroll cutting of frame timbers, but a rough close enough is good enough is all that I need. What I cut is often 1/4" Hard Maple.  There is no way the MM scroll saw could handle that.  I use a generic 9" bandsaw with a Carter Stabilizer..  That saw is adequate for that job, but not much else.  
For POB and having to cut out a central spine and molds every couple of years or so,  you may be better served using a high quality Knew Concepts hand scroll saw.
 
I find the combo 1" belt sander/5" disk sander to be mostly junk.
Unless you are going to sand plastic , the Byrnes disk sander is as good as it gets.
 
If you have to ask, a 10" table saw is probably a bad idea.  It is the least efficient and most dangerous way to mill scale timber from lumber.
For getting planks and deck furniture from scale thickness stock,  a Byrnes table saw is a magnitude better than its nearest compare.

Dave,
What you write indicates that you intend to build POB.  That is an absolute 11 footer for me, but I offer the following:
 
Long ago I bought the MM low end scroll saw.  I found it unacceptable from the beginning.  It is under powered, the blade clamps do not hold all that well,  The up/down cutting action has the stock wanting to chatter.  It just takes up shelf space and collects dust. 
IF you buy a powered scroll saw, going as high a quality as you can afford will save you endless frustration.
I do significant scroll cutting of frame timbers, but a rough close enough is good enough is all that I need. What I cut is often 1/4" Hard Maple.  There is no way the MM scroll saw could handle that.  I use a generic 9" bandsaw with a Carter Stabilizer..  That saw is adequate for that job, but not much else.  
For POB and having to cut out a central spine and molds every couple of years or so,  you may be better served using a high quality Knew Concepts hand scroll saw.
 
I find the combo 1" belt sander/5" disk sander to be mostly junk.
Unless you are going to sand plastic , the Byrnes disk sander is as good as it gets.
 
If you have to ask, a 10" table saw is probably a bad idea.  It is the least efficient and most dangerous way to mill scale timber from lumber.
For getting planks and deck furniture from scale thickness stock,  a Byrnes table saw is a magnitude better than its nearest compare.

Something to consider:
PVA requires some 'tooth' at the surface of a wood-wood bond.  220 grit is right at the smoothness limit for a reliable bond.  120-150 grit is probably better, but my compulsion decrees 220.  For a display surface very fine grit is personal taste.
 
I very well may be off base with this, but there may factors at play with grit size that are not as benign as they seem.  A Dennis Moore moment as it were.