Rustyj

Hi all,
 
I've just finished sanding the char off both sides of the billets holding the frame pieces. After that was done I applied a light coat of wipe on poly to both sides before removing any pieces. For me it seems to help keep the sides cleaner when removing the char from the rest of the frames. I'll be taking the frame pieces out one at a time, clean them up and put them in Individually marked storage bags until I'm ready to assemble them.
This will take a bit of time as there are a lot of frames to do.😀

Frame Sanding: I’ve been working on sanding/building the frames. Assembling the frames for the most part goes easily, not much trimming is needed for good fit of the parts. Sanding on the other hand is a long process for each frame, especially the tall frames with their many parts. I don’t mind the sanding as it’s relaxing, but there’s so much of it. I was thinking there had to be a more efficient way to sand the parts especially those that are the same size/shape. Thinking back to my r/c plane building days, which I still enjoy, I remember when making multiple parts that were the same shape/size, I’d stack them together and sand them to size. Why couldn’t I do the same here? All I needed was a way to hold the parts together without leaving any marks on the wood. Clamping them together was out as the clamps would need to be moved around as sanding progressed. Rummaging around my tape supply I came across some Scotch brand double-sided tape. Hmmmm….would the adhesive have enough hold to keep the parts together? Only one way to find out. Starting small, I used the futtock’s from short frame Cf. I applied a short length to each end with some overhang on each end. Matching the parts together is easy (thanks Chuck!), just press them together making sure they look like a single part. Using a sharp blade I trimmed the tape from the concave/convex sides. Now it was a simple task with a spindle sander (a sanding drum on a drill press) for the concave side and a disc sander for the convex side. A couple of swipes removes the majority of the char. Gentle pressure is needed so you don’t over sand the part. I finish up using 320 sand paper and then separate the parts. To do so, you’ll need a new razor blade to pry the parts apart, the tape holds them extremely tight together. Once separated, use the overhang to remove the tape. You now have 2 parts that are identical and the rest of sanding goes very quickly. It takes me about 10-15 minutes to sand a pair of parts instead of 20-30 minutes per piece. Sorry for being so long winded, but I hope someone can use this technique. One other thing, I use the billet from the rising wood as a gage to check the width of the notch and adjust it so the frame will fit on the keel easily. Some pictures. 
Best Regards …. Rick

Hi all,
 
I've just finished sanding the char off both sides of the billets holding the frame pieces. After that was done I applied a light coat of wipe on poly to both sides before removing any pieces. For me it seems to help keep the sides cleaner when removing the char from the rest of the frames. I'll be taking the frame pieces out one at a time, clean them up and put them in Individually marked storage bags until I'm ready to assemble them.
This will take a bit of time as there are a lot of frames to do.😀

It took me over 2 hours to bag the frames, it’s the only way to keep them organized. Nice idea about applying WOP while in the billet, I’ve been applying poly when I finish building a frame. 
 
Best Regards …. Rick

Hi all,
 
I've just finished sanding the char off both sides of the billets holding the frame pieces. After that was done I applied a light coat of wipe on poly to both sides before removing any pieces. For me it seems to help keep the sides cleaner when removing the char from the rest of the frames. I'll be taking the frame pieces out one at a time, clean them up and put them in Individually marked storage bags until I'm ready to assemble them.
This will take a bit of time as there are a lot of frames to do.😀

Hi all,
 
I've just finished sanding the char off both sides of the billets holding the frame pieces. After that was done I applied a light coat of wipe on poly to both sides before removing any pieces. For me it seems to help keep the sides cleaner when removing the char from the rest of the frames. I'll be taking the frame pieces out one at a time, clean them up and put them in Individually marked storage bags until I'm ready to assemble them.
This will take a bit of time as there are a lot of frames to do.😀

Hi all,
 
I've just finished sanding the char off both sides of the billets holding the frame pieces. After that was done I applied a light coat of wipe on poly to both sides before removing any pieces. For me it seems to help keep the sides cleaner when removing the char from the rest of the frames. I'll be taking the frame pieces out one at a time, clean them up and put them in Individually marked storage bags until I'm ready to assemble them.
This will take a bit of time as there are a lot of frames to do.😀

Hi all,
 
I've just finished sanding the char off both sides of the billets holding the frame pieces. After that was done I applied a light coat of wipe on poly to both sides before removing any pieces. For me it seems to help keep the sides cleaner when removing the char from the rest of the frames. I'll be taking the frame pieces out one at a time, clean them up and put them in Individually marked storage bags until I'm ready to assemble them.
This will take a bit of time as there are a lot of frames to do.😀

OK, I have just competed the hull designs for Harpy (1796), now onto masts. Here are a few pics of the (sacrificial) 'pre-prototype', again, used only to check fit of designed parts, so this has really been taken apart and put together a lot. (And is in fact the third of my builds for this)
 
Again, the only planking required will be at the level below the main wale down, with everything above this all pre cut/engraved, including the main wale (this is why they take so long to design)
 
Armament is absolutely typical of this vessel, 16 x 32-Pounder carronades and 2 x 6-Pounder long guns.
 
64th Scale, as I am sure someone will ask, and a hull length of around 545mm, with a lot of detail..
 
ETA - The hatch coamings sit on the deck beams and carlings, and not directly onto the deck, and the deck sits directly onto the deck beams, instead of ply sub deck and lime deck, for better scale appearance.

Only the swivel guns to go to finish Chapter 11. A quick update on what was the long process of adding the chain plates to fix the deadeyes to the channels. Basically a lot of holes to drill in a straight, level, and angled lines.

Another exercise in patience, planning. placing, and adjusting each of the three mast sections of channels and deadeyes

I am a big fan of the acrylic strops and chainplates - so much easier and such a much better look than fighting through their metal equivalents. I’m not going back.

I also had a new opportunity to make many eyelets along the hull following the plans. At this point the twist around the drill bit in the vice and the cut, snip, fit is mindless, easy work. Maybe someday I’ll count how many I’ve made for Winchelsea - or maybe not.

The model is transformed with these additions - looking completely like a ship at this point (don’t look at the stem, that’s Chapter 12). It’s really quite something. I'm going to take some better photos after I finish Chpt 11. I still haven't glued in the remaining guns, but that's coming up soon.
 
Thanks for stopping by - some swivel guns are up next.

Given the length of the keel, especially since it's assembled in a free state (not constrained), chances are good that the keel might have a twist or slight bend in it. I can't draw a straight line with a ruler, so checking with a laser seemed like a good idea. Also, with the stern needing to be exactly vertical, the laser makes that an easy task to accomplish. But mostly, with the keel coming out as straight as it did, is a testament to the quality of Chuck's laser cutting skills, design and quality materials. 
 
Best Regards .... Rick 

First, thank you ALL for likes, I very much appreciate it!
 
 Shaped the deadwood and added the wedges. Sanding down to shape was an all day affair, lots of patient sanding. Not 100% happy with the results, it’s a little too thin at the base of the wedges. Hope that won’t be a problem down the road. 
 
This morning I glued the deadwood to the keel. It needs to be perfectly vertical and  since the keel is so long naked eyeballs won’t cut it. In anticipation of this build I had bought a cheap laser level a while back. I built the jigs to hold the keel assembly and laid everything out on my building board. I first aligned the plan to the laser line and then the jigs, which I had drawn center lines on. Nothing is secured yet, just some weights for now and I know when I secure the plans and jigs, I’ll have to go through this exercise again, but it this gives me a feel for where I’m at alignment wise. All I can say is Wow! Once everything was in place the laser line lined up almost perfectly with my center lines. Never would have thought something this long would be straight. I took some photos but it was very difficult. 
 
Best Regards …. Rick

Great to see you back at it Ben!

Work has restarted on Chapter 7, all of the beam positions were checked again and numbered 1-30, #25 was permantly installed and I have started adjusting the bulkheads and doors into position, I really happy to be back building again.
 
ben

Greetings,
 
Let the real work begin! I am ready to start the frames.
 
I realized that the keel I had made a year ago is slightly thicker than Chuck’s but I think I can get away with a little tapering at the stern when the time comes. The rest of the fittings were straightforward although I had my fair share of screwups. I decided to employ a higher build board jig so that the stern and stem posts were clasped at their tops - though I know that these extensions will get in my way later. I will interchange the lower jigs when the time comes. 
 



Cheers,
Ian

The preliminary design for the stern carvings are now complete, I’m going to review them and make any adjustments necessary and proceed with the prototype sets. Looks like I need to get moving on the model so I have something to attach these beauties to.
 
JJ

There was an error marking them. The longer ones should be 10A.

Ah yes, thank you for the reminder. I read that but totally forgot about that. Another lesson learned, if you’re tired, no modeling.
 
 Best Regards …. Rick

There was an error marking them. The longer ones should be 10A.

Chuck had me second guessing myself if I used the correct floor for frame OX.  Because I never break up or throw away the billets, I was able to put floors 1a and Af  back into the billet and confirmed I used the correct floor. 
 
 Best Regards …. Rick

Question: I had a little time this morning to mess around and decide to assemble the frame with the O and X thru it. Assembly was easy and gave me an idea of how much sanding is in front of me. But me being me, I had to fit the frame on the keel. Small adjustments were needed as it was a very tight fit. Once fitted, I noticed the  bottom of the frame didn’t quite seat to the top of the rabbet, in other words, flush with the rabbet. Is this an issue? The plans clearly no space from the bottom of the frame to the top of the rabbet. So, question is, if the frame is to be flush with the top of the rabbet, do yo adjust the notch in the frame, or the notch in the rising wood?
 
 Best Regards …. Rick

For scuppers: My method (waterway in place) is, first accurate mark-out both inboard and out. Drill with a very small diameter bit from both sides. Hopefully the holes will meet - at least partially. Then progressively enlarge using larger diameter bits and needle files, making minor corrections as you go until you reach the diameter of the scupper.
 
I've not drilled hawseholes in years. I file the half-holes in the hawse pieced before assembly. Again, I make them slightly under final size, then file them out once planking is complete.

Looking really nice, Chuck. Your progress is amazing and the ship looks aesthetically pleasing, at least to my eye.
 
As I recall, when I did the scuppers on Cheerful, I started with a small diameter drill that was large enough to get the point of a round needle file inside. Then I just rolled it to increase the hole size. Once the hole size was close a final drilling to even out the taper worked nicely. Like I said, as I recall. To be honest I'm not 100% sure.

A lot like drilling holes for multiple strips and eyelets on the hull you spent almost a year planking. Not much opportunity for recovery. 

While I was away, I had taken a bunch of milled cedar strips of various widths.  All were 3/64" thick.   I spent my evenings planking the decks which was quite nice and relaxing.  My wife was also enjoying some wine from the local vineyards while working on her own relaxing projects while overlooking the Long Island Sound.
 
Not much to say about how to plank the decks as the gun deck and poop were planked like any other deck.  Just taper the strips following the provided deck plans.   You must cut around the hatches and coamings as usual.   These were the most difficult planks to cut but not awful.   It just takes careful planning and cutting.
 
These were the last two planks which I waiting to return home so I could photograph them before gluing them in permanently.
 

Here are some photos of the completed deck planking.   The forecastle deck planks were cut from a 3/64" sheet because of their curvature as I mentioned.  But the gun deck and poop were planked with strips.  The curves are not that severe and it was a lot easier this way.   Note the gentle curve of the planks.
 

NOW...how much deck planking should be added.   Its really just a personal decision.  What do like more....or less.
 
I have an extra strake on the gun deck where  the cannon will be located.  I dont particularly like when the carriage trucks are hanging over the edge if there were too few strakes.   But maybe you are OK with that.  This planking scheme matches the plans I provided but you guys can change to suit your sensibilities.  Looking at the photos you can see why I omitted all of the deck knees (hanging and lodging).  You can try really hard but would ever be able to see even a whisper of them.  It just doesnt make sense to add them with this planking layout.  I hope you will agree.
 


Next up will be something I have been blissfully ignoring.  Its a bit terrifying for any ship modeler. I will be drilling the scupper holes and hawse holes.   Usually I drill the scuppers after adding the waterway.  But this usually chips and frays the waterway.   So I am going to try something new.  I will drill the scuppers first and then add the waterway strip.   I will mark and file the waterway strip so it will hopefully not get damaged.  We shall see.
 
The hawse holes are a different story.  Those will require some really careful planning.
 
But waiting any longer to do these will only make them more terrifying. 
 
Chuck