Doreltomin

And... the magic begins to show! Lovely work, as ever, Gary.
 
Off topic, the eclipse: If one believes that it is all a coincidence in size and distance.... BTW, in Niagara we were almost totally cloud covered that day. Sigh.

My kit version is for the 1970 edition McLaren. However, the kit contains parts to backdate this version to the 1969 version which had a high wing rather than the shorter wing struts seen in the previous photos on my last post.
With Imagna's help, I learned my kit instructions showed the installation of parts that interfered with the optional installation of the high wing struts found in the 1969 team McLaren version which I want to model. 
Pictured are my kit instructions and then the photos of my kit with the correct long struts installed for the high wing. Note that I needed to make my own bracing rods that run from the roll bar to the long wing struts. My kit did not include bracing rods long enough for the high wing struts, but it's no big deal to make a longer pair of rods from styrene rod stock in the correct diameter.
 

 
If you decide to build the high wing 1969 version like I did, leave out part numbers C53, C56, and C57, and attach the longer set of struts directly on top of the rear axle hubs.

Need to add the decals, windscreen, and a few small parts then this one is done.
 

Steven, nice add with those crewmen tightening the shroud... but allow me to disagree there! I remember having seen a photo from the early fifties of the last century with two people doing this job on a small English schooner, much smaller than this one, and they used a small lever to tighten the shrouds. If you have the book "Schooners" by David R MacGregor just look on page 93, down right.
 
I mean, the tension on the shrouds is such that you can't properly do it by hand, and surely not by merely pulling it down with his hands as your guy is doing it!
 
More likely they had the upper pulley attached to a lanyard and used his weight on a strong lever propped to another lanyard tied to the lower pulley to pull it down!

The shrouds are pulled tight by a number of blocks. On a few of my models, I've used all four. Depending on the wind direction, a few are sometimes not used if the sail is broken in such a way that it would rub against the shrouds. The shrouds that are left out are then attached to the leeside.
See the drawing


On port side are all four shrouds in use, on starboard only two. Because of the blocks these are easy to handle.
Constant

Steven, nice add with those crewmen tightening the shroud... but allow me to disagree there! I remember having seen a photo from the early fifties of the last century with two people doing this job on a small English schooner, much smaller than this one, and they used a small lever to tighten the shrouds. If you have the book "Schooners" by David R MacGregor just look on page 93, down right.
 
I mean, the tension on the shrouds is such that you can't properly do it by hand, and surely not by merely pulling it down with his hands as your guy is doing it!
 
More likely they had the upper pulley attached to a lanyard and used his weight on a strong lever propped to another lanyard tied to the lower pulley to pull it down!

In general I have completed work on the small boat. On the drawing it comes without metal fastenings for the mast, after some thought I decided to do it as on the drawing. What is left to do is to cover it with oil, make two slipways and install it inside the  longboat.

Hi Ian.
Steel-wire, cable-laid, 21 strands, 70 mm diameter in all, runs aft from the main steering-barrel in front of the chart-house, down from the Liverpool-House to the after deck over two rollers, mounted in these "slots", further aft then through some horizontal on-deck rollers to the tiller below the poop. And please don´t forget: 21 strands it has to be .
Cable-, not hawser-laid :-)
Gx Marten

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

The stand was too narrow and prone to tipping over (probably why the model got damaged in the first place) so I added some cross-beams to stabilise it a bit. Also added another coat of stain so everything matched.
 

Then I got to work untangling the rigging.  Turns out -AFTER I'd undone and redone the tangles that the model had been made to be disassembled so I might have been able to untangle everything more easily by simply pulling the mast out and rotating it. Sigh.
Anyway, finally got that all sorted, added the bowsprit and main boom,

re-rigged her, cleaned the deck again, and *finished*!

Regarding the name, I asked the owner. He had a cat called Misty and a dog called Deefer (think about it - Deefer dog). So she's Mistydeefer.
 
The owner's very happy with it.

Steven

Hello everyone,
Thanks for the comments Roger, KeithAug and Jim Lad.  Thanks everyone for the likes.
Short update here.
I have the pilot house and winch house doors built; need to do the engine house doors.
Working on the stack, whistle and RV discharge.
I think I may have a large enough batch of parts to paint soon.
Thanks for looking.
mcb
 

FIRST THANK YOU ALL for your quick responses.   It seems I have been on the right track with the spacing as lacking other information until now, went with the station lines.    
Dean,
This is how I have gone as well.  I first saw this in Frolich's The Art of Ship Modeling and a highly regarded MSW member showed me a plug he had made (I think before there was an MSW😀)  Originally I made the plug to the outside of the frames and cut grooves for the frames.   Due to the high risk of a frame getting stuck when removing the hull I change to carving the plug to the inside dimension of the frames and rest the frames on top of the plug.  The thickness of individual pieces of the plug are the same as the distance from station line to station line.
Couple pictures follow.  I think this is similar to what you describe.
 
Thanks again to all of you
 
Allan

The Flirt is attacked by a giant mythical beast!

Shrouds being installed. Quite stressful with the shipyard inspector on site 😬
 

Greetings!
 
On to the Jewel.  When I bought Foss landing, there was an option to purchase 2 waterline boats to go with the Foss diorama, the Jewel and the Addison.  Up first is the Jewel.  The waterline molded boat is pretty good with regard to detail.  I first used a white primer for the base layer.  Below the lower wale was painted red, above left white.  The decks were painted off white.  here is a photo at this stage:

The deckhouse is built using a template with the boards weathered and painted as described previously, then glued directly onto the paper template.  This next photo shows the process with the portholes supplied.  They were a variety of colors with a gloss finish.  3 are in their original state, 3 have been "roughed up" and painted grimy black.

 
This next one is the aft wall before painting, and the portholes with "rust."
 

Portholes now installed.  I painted the roof a speckled white like the walls and then realized that it should have been black.  Easy enough to fix and it can be seen on later photos.

 
The walls were then glued to the appropriate place on the boat.  Rather than try to glue the whole thing at once, I first glued just the forward wall with epoxy.  When that set, I bent the walls around the former on the deck to achieve the final structure.  Because the walls are pretty flimsy, some wood was added to the perimeter at the top to give more gluing area for the roof.  The front window is installed around this step too.  Instructions call for the plastic to be fogged using DioSol, however, I decided to go with a clearer window as I could not imaging running a boat with windows that were too foggy. 
 

The rear wall is then glued on when complete.  I thought the deckhouse looked too empty, especially with the clear "glass" in place.  So, prior to putting the roof on, I decided to try to make a ships wheel using some spare ship modelling parts. 

 
The rings are small mast hoops; wood strips cut from 0.5 x 5 mm strip to 0.5 x 1 mm.  The central hub is a rough 3 mm circle of styrene. 
 

 
Here is the result.  Looks ok, considering it will be inside the deckhouse.  I made one for the Addison as well. 

And here's what it looks like inside the deckhouse.

Once the roof is installed, the horn, some sort of ?smokestack and ?vent are installed.  Weathering and rust applied to ship. The hardware for the rigging has been installed as well.  This includes several eyebolts, 4 cleats and door / hatch handles.  Unfortunately, I somehow lost the cleats that came with the kit.  Luckily, I had some spares from a prior model that were close enough in size, so I used 2 of these that were slightly larger aft, and 2 from the Addison will be used forward.  I also used smaller eyebolts as I felt the ones in the kit were a bit too large for the HO scale (full size would translate to a 10-inch eyebolt).  And finally, the name was changed to "Golden Jewel."  When researching ships of this size, the name is often on some sort of wooden or metal plaque attached to the hull.  I reduced and printed a very small name and glued it to a thin wood strip, then glued this to the hull.

 
Next post will be the rigging. 
 
Jeff
 

Excellent model! As for the tendency to turn after you start going straight, probably the steering oars will help to correct that too.

Hi everybody,
 
40 years ago I got a kit of a wooden brig as a christmas gift … the task of planking the hull in combination with poor instructions and the lack of available informations set an end to this project. As I still love wooden model ships I have decided to try it again. For the restart I have picked the Albatros from Occre - 1:100 scale and already did it past the stage of planking … and I love it…
 
I am addicted to frigates of the 18th century and have read all of the Hornblower books and have seen all the movies so HMS Indefatigable from Vanguard Models is the one I want to build in the future. On my way to her I will have to learn a lot and get used to the techniques I will need. In addition I want to get used to the Vanguard-style and plan to work my way up by building one of their cutters, the HMS Grecian, the Speedy and the Sphinx before I will finally be able to try the Indy.
 
All help I will get from you is highly appreciated an maybe … some day … I will be of help to other fellow shipbuilders.
 
Kai

Excellent model! As for the tendency to turn after you start going straight, probably the steering oars will help to correct that too.