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chris watton
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Everything posted by chris watton
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Hi Spyglass I don't know what to tell you, other than I am so used to it I hardly think about the process. I do one plank per side; that is, I lay the plank to see where it needs tapering, mark the spot, wet a little and cut, usually I taper to around half the plank width. No point trying to be too technical and it would never work planking with just a Stanley Knife, steel rule and rusty old plyers to help bending. Although using the Tanganyika, I can just manipulate the required curves with my fingers, as it's much more pliable than pear. Once those planks are glued in place (left and right sides), I start the process again until complete. Worked on wales today, and tried a few ways of offering these in the kit. In the end, my first hunch won the day, but not before I messed up the port side by (stupidly) gluing the three part wale in place. I decided to lay it as if I was a novice, with no bevelling to take into account the curves of the hull, as I know some will do this. The result wasn't pretty. A one piece wale however, is as fool proof as I can make it, and hugged the hull a lot better than I thought it would - so the single piece wale will be the kit version. Also attached is a photo of a 4 piece wale (not tried, as I know I didn't like it - get it wrong when gluing, and it would look awful). The starboard one piece wale is just pinned in place.
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See above, that hull is the Sphinx. Still in design stage.
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May keep it for a while, always hard to throw them away..
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That Tanganyika was much easier to use, but a lot of the planks have this mottled effect in them, making it look like those 'mottled' paint schemes I see on WW2 German aircraft in the North African theatre... One thing I must stress, it is very important to mask off the finished engraved upper hull before sanding...
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Have decided to wait for this instead: Pen and Sword Books: Historic Ship Models of the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries - Hardback (pen-and-sword.co.uk)
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OK, I never meant to plank the whole Sphinx hull, as this model will be thrown away once all the info I need has been taken from it. But couldn't help myself. this is a very quick planking job (a day), using scrap 1x4 Tanganyika instead of wasting the pear on a disposable hull - no filling, just a quick sand so I have a smooth (ish) surface for checking all parts that are to be fixed to it. I am happy with the hull lines, nice shape to plank, too.
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Well, I did ask them if I could buy three of their books, and arrange a UPS pick up myself to collect the books. Frustratingly, this is the reply: 'No, sorry. I talked with Bob, and he said that the warehouse can only handle US mail. I'm very sorry, but we can't help you on the shipping charges.' Not sure why, to be absolutely honest. Oh well, I did ask, and I am not paying for postal service that's seemingly broken right now. ( I wanted the Rogers Collection of Ship Models at the US Naval Academy The Third Rates, Volume II and the 2 Speedwell volumes)
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I would very much like 'Rogers Collection of Ship Models at the US Naval Academy' I may contact them and ask if I could use my shipping courier to pick it up and ship to me, rather than using standard post..
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Yeah, I have never seen that before. I bought my Le Superb in 1992 from Model Dockyard, and this was laser cut, one of the first, I think, and very nice (for the time) and excellent manual.
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Do not worry, Clark, you said/did absolutely nothing wrong! I also hope you can rely on me, as I am always investing in new designs and products. It seems I have very healthy sales outside the EU anyway. Once I have a larger update (still in the 'Doldrums Stage' with Sphinx), I shall start a new topic. But for now, I am still plodding on with Sphinx, designs are around 90% there (I really do agonise over many parts as to the best way to design them, having the end user in mind when doing so..), and once done, the final prototype parts will be sent to Jim for the final building and manual shots. And as Jim does that, I then concentrate on drawing the plans (although mast and yard drawings are already done, needed to to get the correct dimensions for laser and PE mast and yard fittings, tops, trestle/cross-trees etc.) So, I best crack on....
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Thank you very much! Jim has done a superb job in putting them together. And to think, a year ago he hadn't touched any wooden kit for years! They do, they are my US distributors.
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I think I will start a fresh thread soon, as this is long and now getting a little too off topic
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I meant the overall length of the laser cut keel, which included stem and stern
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Superb work!
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I bought the plans from NMM and scaled the lines to the correct size to get profiles. I certainly wasn't going to change them. Full size, the 28 foot equates to 8534.4mm Divide this by 64 and you get 133.35mm. This is more or less the keel length of my 64th scale 28 foot cutter. Not sure where you're getting the 140mm from. I am still shipping to EU countries, seems to be a lot of scare mongering right now.
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Two more almost ready...
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Other bits and pieces... Not sure what will stay and what will go in finished kit...
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Just received a pic of the samples I asked to have made for the boat beam 'U' shaped brackets. These were initially problematic for me, as I intended to produce them in PE, but the issue was that they stand proud of the gangway by about 1.5mm. I figured the best way to do these is a one piece casting, to ensure they all maintain the correct height. Development continues...
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Absolutely superb, and a perfect display for her. Just goes to show that a wooden vessel's hull is a beautiful thing to behold, no matter what era, or millennium! Love it!
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- byblos ship
- Egyptian
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Great work Glenn! Just do not forget to turn those cleats over before gluing them.
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- Vanguard Models
- Duchess of Kingston
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I designed some fine saws for PE for Amati a while back, but they decided not to go ahead. The problem with PE saw blades is that the teeth are not 'splayed' out at the sides like 'real' saw blades, which makes sawing easy and reduces clogging (they are very sharp though, as the MD of Amati almost cut his finger off when trying out one of my saw blades when it slipped...). They would have been fine for anything 3mm and thinner, I think.
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- 22ft Yawl
- Vanguard Models
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Revenge is almost 200 years before the intended fittings shown. I am not sure if boats were towed permanently for a vessel of Revenge's era. The lantern castings are of a typical mid to late 18th Century pattern.
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Just the smallest of updates, I now have three sizes of stern lantern available. They come in pairs and consist of a cast resin top and bottom, and fold-around photo etch frame that fits in between. Simple things, but the castings are quite detailed, especially compared to my past efforts, a turned top and bottom on the lathe and cast in white metal.. Lanterns – VANGUARD MODELS Sizes are (height): SMALL – 17.8mm MEDIUM – 21.3mm LARGE – 23.7mm Also included a pic of the laser cut parts for the 36 foot admirals barge (over 160mm long), that I cut today, but am waiting for the PE sheets to arrive.
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Only 64th scale. These are all mini kits that will be included in my future main kits. I wanted them to be kits in themselves, and not the usual afterthought to the main kit. I have little time to re draw each one for 72nd scale, it would double my costs, especially when it comes to the photo etched parts, which are never cheap anyway (nor is the pear). I think that when I have a healthy range of kits, I will have the luxury of looking at more fittings in different scales, but for now, I am concentrating exclusively on subjects in 1:64th scale. I will have three sizes of stern lantern soon, with a fully detailed cast resin top and bottom and photo etched frames in between, sold per pair.
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