Javelin

I kind of regret you're finished. She was a pleasure to follow and came out beautiful! Love the way you did the sails, brings an extra dimension to the build. I'm sure you learned a lot of things and will use those lessons in the next build.

Seems indeed the shop in Bruges (not Brussels, very insulting for Bruges 😋), is called Hobby Neverland, while the manufacturer is Neverland Hobby....

You are talking about a shop near Bruges. I've been there in the past. It's a shop, as far as I know they don't produce anything and are therefore different from the manufacturer Bruce is enquiring about.

I saw most of your updates by the posting on the main page, but seem to have missed quite something now. Finally following this topic, better late than never I guess. Great job on Lula, she looks very realistic. Having some gaps left and right is good in this case. She was pre industrial mass-production and therefore likely to be less sharp and crisp as anything built later on. Hope you didn't get hurt too bad from that fall...

That's a brilliant stand! Never seen this before, so quite original and beautifully executed. (the ship as well)

Although I don't have stands for my models, I'd look for supports for curtain rails of the rod type? Old brass versions of those. Perhaps modify them a bit.

YES PLEASE! A dredger would be fantastic! However, first Lula. A gorgeous piece of work and a great example of combining materials to reach an overall complicated appearance! True scratchbuilding. I can't imagine, but do hope, to be building such sharp and intricate details at your age.

Paint for the upper hull and coppering for the bottom.

Forgot to mention, thanks for asking. Plank on Bulkhead, I won't be trying my luck too much.

As the title says, I'm preparing for a first wooden ship and decided to go for a scratch build. The odd reason perhaps, is that I'm used to build from scratch and want to see where it goes. I find it easier to toss one of my builds in the bin rather than a 30% finished (expensive) kit. Now while preparing I've been gathering a lot of info here on thicknesses and types of wood, but I do have to take in account what I have available to me. The basic question is: Do I use ply or MDF for the frames and keel? I've seen some opting for MDF because it holds pushpins better, but that's just one argument. And second question, my main store has poplar and birch ply, so if I'm to use ply, which one would be better suitable? I'm preparing a document with sequence of construction and needed materials, so I can make an order list for the first phase. As mentioned before, if the hull fails, there's no need to purchase equipment for masts, fittings and rigging, which is not an option if you bought a kit... (considering my past experience and wealth of information here, I'm rather confident I can make it work, or I wouldn't start it in the first place 😄)

Hi @Glen McGuire, we don't really use much piping like that onboard, most of it bolted or welded. Bolted flanges maked things easy to remove for repair or replacement. There are not many things that survive long on a dredging vessel. I've somewhat settled on the US M53 or M54 aerial depth charge for the name card. Why? Well, because I have good drawings of it and the beam/length ratio is good for writing the name of the ship and scale on it without becoming too large and overwhelming compared to the ship and rest of the base. I'm thinking about partially covering in sand or weathering it differently.

Gorgeous piece of work. I agree to all of the above! Looking forward to your next project!

So they're calling you an Apprentice now... I wonder what the Masters' works look like then?! That crack makes me bit sad. Looks a bit like you made the model and inserted it through the bottom, gluing the cracked part in, together with the ship. Nowadays anybody can photoshop the crack away and state it's a "before" picture 🤪. In all honesty, I really am sad and can't imagine this happening to one of my builds. I hope it's not the result of differing temperature expansion factors between the epoxy and the bottle (perhaps in combination with a small impact?). That said, the Jenny does look awesome. Love those sails!

Takes a gas carrier guy to think of such things ;). Changing atmosphere in gas tanks is done in the same way, except that those pipes are fixed of course. @Glen McGuire, I didn't put too much pattern in those waves since I knew it would shrink that much. In this scale, the shrinkage of the gel is actually an advantage. Time to finish this up, there really weren't that many manipulations to do anymore. As mentioned yesterday, shouldn't forget to pass the unicaenis through the bow connection before inserting, otherwise it would get really hard to pass it inside that bottle. There was a slight bend in the main part, with either the accommodation or the aft end wanting to come up. So eventually I glued the forward part first and had to get creative to hold the aft part down while the glue was setting. What are you looking at? Well the aft end of the tweezers is resting on a cup, while the bottle is resting on the center of the tweezers in way of the bottle neck and the open end of the tweezers is pushing down the aft end of the main deck on both sides using the weight of the bottle... I'm not good at holding such a position manually for longer periods of time, I'd probably crush the model or release too early! Hence this idea to let gravity do the work. After some testing when still outside the bottle, I found out that mounting that bridge without knocking the forward crane boom off its support was quite hard. So I decided to glue that boom quite well to its support and I also found out the correct way to mount the bridge to avoid getting stuck on that support. Luckily my ideas worked out the way they were supposed to. And the last action was adding a dab of glue to that bow connection, pulling the unicaenis tights and eventually cutting off the unicaenis inside the bottle. I don't like shiny bottle caps, certainly not with this kind of working vessels (shiny on a vessel like that means it's probably damaged). So I decided to make the cap white. I wanted to put the logo of the vessel on the cap, but apparently that ship doesn't have a particular logo. Here are some pictures taken from below the surface, where you can see that light breaking effect. Together with her predecessor. I don't have time to make a name card etc. I'm currently thinking of making a partially submerged bomb in the sand below the bottle, with the scale and name written on its side. Not too large, not too small. Not entirely sure though. A basic piece of wood seems too easy...

Now that's dexterity and patience! Great job so far Phil!