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Javelin

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  1. Hi Paul, Ian, I indeed noticed he (offshore-vessels-drawings.com) was also selling the drawings and pictures for Viking Neptun (from her Eidesvik period) and used some of his pictures for details (like the swimming pool area and aft part of the accomodation). I do doubt he's allowed to sell these as ships drawings are normally quite confidential with notices explicitly stating that they can not be reproduced or used, disclosed or copied without either the owner or shipyard's permission... That is also the reason most companies are not very forthcoming with drawings towards modellers. Occasionally they are helpful and even eager to help, so it never hurts to try and ask.
  2. I don't know about you guys, but I'm waiting for those paddle wheels Keith! But I do believe that's fabric.
  3. Incredible! As Wefalck said, difficult to distinguish between the original and the model... And to think that most of it will not even be visible!
  4. I was wondering about that too Keith, I guess people get sloppy or old over here 😁 @Paul Le Wol, I wouldn't get my hopes up. It's one of my typical preparations I do when I'm at sea. Since I'm unable to build onboard, I do research of ships and ideas at that time. Unfortunately I can't build each project in my limited holidays, so I end up with lots of projects and ideas in various stages of development that will never get built. The choice for VN in this commission at least allows me to use some of that past research, but 1/1250 really isn't my scale...
  5. Although I didn't make any real eyebolts yet, I normally use copper or brass wire and turn it around a drill bit to make small round rings or eyebrows. If you use brass wire, it's best to use a 1mm or 1.2mm bit, when using copper a 1.5mm bit will do. You can experiment a bit on what goes best. The advantage of copper is that you can easily cut it with a knife and cut it very straight (I use a lot of copper wire from electrical wiring, since you find a lot of different diameters). They are of course weaker, so you have to be more careful than with brass.
  6. Great subject, but quite a challenge at that scale! I assume you've seen this site and the rather rough drawing contains. https://www.granturismoevents.com/story-wallypower-118-the-coolest-luxury-yacht-in-the-world/ The site mentions 3.5t of fuel per hour for the gas turbine, that would make the bill "only" around $3500 per hour at regular MGO prices.
  7. Thanks for the comments and likes. In all my haste to call this one finished, I actually forgot about the 2 large communication domes on either side of the bridge. I've made them from 3mm styrene rod inside my Proxxon and filed them to shape. As you can see, the second ship is also taking shape. @Glen McGuire, the only reason this build went do fast, was my preparation. I have been preparing a 1/100 scale RC build of this ship, which means I was familiar (and thought of solutions) with most of the issues I'd encounter by that integrated accomodation. Also having built a very similar cable layer in the past has helped to detail that installation with precious little info available. Although I have built a Trailing Suction Hopper Dredger before, I believe that Lange Wapper model may be more challenging. I've never been onboard of it and the dark green deck colour makes details on deck very difficult to see in pictures.
  8. Ok, she's done. I could probably continue to add details for one month, but probably wouldn't make it any better.
  9. The item I sort of ignored is what I assume a loading tower for the carousel. I assume the cable comes in from deck (dark green bend near the deck) and pulled up over that loading bend over the edge of the carousel. Not sure if that tower can rotate inward and outward to follow the cable or not. Here's a shot of the ROV area. And with the first rescue boat in place. The auxiliary crane is being rigged and then it's time to round this one up.
  10. I can't even believe how sharp that work is! (as well as the photography by the way). Quite a complex ship structure, sometimes you wonder how the engineers came up with such a design.
  11. I don't see any stupid questions here @Glen McGuire, but speaking of them, wait until I start my Sherbourne... 😂 The "New" ROV (Remotely Operated Vehicle) area is located just behind the big crane on portside. It's probably hired equipment since it's a blue A-Frame and it seems to be a habit in the offshore to rent this kind of equipment from specialised companies like Helix Energy Solutions or Reach Subsea. I simplified this equipment quite a lot compared to my 1/700 Living Stone. It's not very visible in this model and not worth hours of work to make each support beam and detail.
  12. That is looking marvellous Phil. Very realistic in any case. Were there really ropes wound around those rings on 4 places? Just wondering since I'm from the reflective SOLAS tape era and don't know about Navy habits on this...
  13. Assembling a lot of parts now. This way it becomes obvious which parts I forgot to build 🤫 The crane is rigged with fly tying thread and the end is fixed to a tiny piece of copper wire inserted in the deck. They lash the real hook on deck as well to avoid swinging during sailing. The boats were glued to the davits to enable insertion in the recesses. Helo deck has its markings. I used my stencil cutter with vinyl to make the mask for the first time. Although the vinyl sticks a little too strong to my liking it did not have any bleeding nor did it tear out any paint underneath. Working on the ROV area as well as some details on starboard, the main item being a large curved loading arm for the carousel. I thought to leave it out (no idea why really), but it's a really visible item.
  14. Since I was doing the last portholes/windows on the side now, I took a picture. In this case I used an upper and lower piece of tape. Normally this marker needs a porous surface (=paper). It does dry on the painted surface, but takes a long time to do so. Unfortunately it does appear to creep in and under the masking tape when the masking tape is left for too long. The result is visible in rather unsharp top and lower edges with occasional smudges. I might remove them with a knife tip. And finally finished handling and turning over that hull, so time to continue building up now. A bit to small to use a piece of railway track, so I'm using other relatively heave and stable objects. Nearly there now!
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