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Javelin reacted to a post in a topic: Staghound 1850 by rwiederrich - 1/96 - Extreme Clipper
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Javelin reacted to a post in a topic: USS Pennsylvania 1837 by threebs - 1/72 scale - second build in this scale
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Hi Brad, how much does she weigh at the moment? And I noticed decals on your air det, aren't you scared they'll come off in her wet environment? Or do you varnish the whole plane when they're finished? Overpowering a model is easy, but it's also necessary. Wind nor water scale down and nobody's going to make any mooring manoeuvers in an 11Bft gale... That said, seems like a fun boat to run. Not too large nor heavy.
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- Puncher
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Coyote_6 reacted to a post in a topic: Oryol 1902 by GrandpaPhil - Orel - 1/200 - CARD - Russian Battleship
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic: Oryol 1902 by GrandpaPhil - Orel - 1/200 - CARD - Russian Battleship
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic: Oryol 1902 by GrandpaPhil - Orel - 1/200 - CARD - Russian Battleship
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GrandpaPhil reacted to a post in a topic: Oryol 1902 by GrandpaPhil - Orel - 1/200 - CARD - Russian Battleship
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Great job and I'm happy you decided to install that rigging, it really adds to the stunning result!
- 229 replies
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- Card
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yvesvidal reacted to a post in a topic: Le Chebec by Yvesvidal - CAF Model - 1/48
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Having much less power astern than forward is quite normal in real ships as well. Propellor shape and pitch are optimised to move ahead, not astern. The main reason a rudder manoeuver is always preferred over a telegraph one. The turning radius is always much shorter in advance than a straight stop. Also reversing props makes you lose any rudder effect/use. That's why sailing isn't as easy as it looks, you need to look well in advance. Real ships also have a lot less power available than any model. That said, I understand that on a pond a short stopping distance is preferred, certainly when other ships are involved.
- 213 replies
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With two identical props you will have a stronger propellor effect when reversing. With counterrotating ones this balances out. Depending if you go for right or left handed props, the bow will very strongly move to either port or starboard side when reversing. Which then means that whenever you'd want to reduce speed, you need to take into account a heading change and turning of the vessel. Rudders don't work when props run backwards, so you can't compensate for it either. That's the only disadvantage I can think of. Perhaps also vibrations that will increase instead of cancelling each other out, but that's difficult to predict. She's looking sharp!
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And time for an overview: next steps: - fix some issues with the piping edges at the forward edge of the hatch and piping issues forward of that edge - level out forward catwalk since it determines the height of the next part along the deckhouse - complete the piping connections to the deck house - finish and fix catwalk next to deck house - finish forward edge of manifold catwalk where it makes a step to the part next to the deck house I believe after that that I will proceed with finishing the deckhouse (finally put the real crane jib support in place instead of an airbrush jar) and railings on top of it. And together with that, start making the stairs to the catwalks. Only the aft catwalk is glued, all others are just dry fitted. I will first put some transverse beams, paint those and also the catwalks themselves before gluing them, same sequence as I used on the aft part.
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I did not have much time in the last couple of months, but did manage to do more than anticipated the last two weeks. I haven't made any updates since it's simply more of the same... I finished the forward part of the catwalk, including railing. Currently working on the railing of the manifold part and simultaneously building the last part of the catwalk, the part around the deckhouse. As you can see, the Legos have made an entry for keeping things in place and straight. Picked up that trick over here. Of course I need to be carefull since I'm using glue for styrene, so I don't want to glue the blocks to the catwalks...
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For what it's worth, the bearing device is called a pelorus. The stand itself is called a binnacle or compass/gyro repeater. I'm however not certain if in that time they actually had repeaters or if it was a fixed rose that would give relative bearings (relative to ship's bow that is) rather than compass bearings. Nowadays we take gyro bearings with these things. Sorry for interrupting. You're doing an excellent job. Quite an improvement over your original version!
- 213 replies
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But the question is: what about the moss-idea??? Loved the Zen garden too, but as mentioned before, it would probably take some of the focus away from the bottle...
- 106 replies
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- Kentoshi-Sen
- bottle
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Haven't been too active around here, but a great job on this SIB Glen. I'd also go for the second one, however I'd try to crudely break off the left part that sticks out towards the front. This would create a more compact contour. Love the moss idea as well, but it's up to you, the "hard line" doesn't really bother me, but the moss would add some colour.
- 106 replies
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- Kentoshi-Sen
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Late as ever, but you can count me in! I'd say that small pipe is an overpressure vent from the boiler. Based on the white colour of the smoke in your last picture as well as the fact that she is manoeuvering with that barge near the quay in that picture. She'd be reducing and/or reversing her engine at that time, which would create an imbalance with the steam production/consumption in the boiler. In those first pictures, she's made fast on the bow, but keeps pushing forward against the quay to keep her in position, which would create a steady steam balance and no need for venting any overpressure. Just my 2 cents, I'm not a specialist on steam systems of that age. I'll be happy to follow this build, lots of opportunities for weathering!
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