marktiedens

Update :
 
Gun arrangement.....
I`ll probably have all the starbord guns pointinng outwards and rigged appropriately, the portside guns either tied, barrels up against the bulwark from inside, not ready for battle. So this portside will have cover-plugs for the gunports. I decided to provide small plugs with lions head, framed with the golden circle ring just like the starbord side. The lion head plugs are made from buttons for clothes. The plug outside was cut away and the remaining center (with lions head) glued to a short dowel.
From that I made a mold for casting the remaining plugs in resin. The space between plug and outer ring gets a black shade coloring, and the removeable lions heads will be gold color....
 
Nils
 

dummy bulwark planks with black shade, will be surrounded by the golden decore ring
 

 
 

dummy of the stb. open gunport
 

mould for the port gunport plugs
 

this is where I found some suitable lions head "figures" in miniture diam.
 

holding the plug dowel for making the mould, while the silicone cures
 

dummy port side gunprts with removeable plugs closed towards the sea
 
 
 

Hello Everyone,
 
Again thanks for your likes and kind comments.
 
Not much to show today, just the four anchors completed and ready to fit, can't say much about them really.
 
I made the anchors now as I was getting so frustrated trying to figure out the rigging that I needed a break from it. The more I looked and searched the more confused that I became. Pete made a good comment, he suggested that I would know roughly where things went so go for what I felt was right. So rather that try for historical accuracy I'm going to follow a fairly generic rigging sequence and just try not to foul or cross the yards. This was never going to be an accurate depiction of RW and nobody that I know will be know the difference.
 
I've shown parts of the rigging plan, the two are used in conjunction together, you may understand my confusion.
 
Ken
 

 

Karl : thanks for your post. This, my first effort at rigging a “complicated” ship, is still a learning experience as I move along, and fairly confusing at best. Yes your suggestion will also be incorporated. Thanks for your thoughts.
 
That area will be much more involved than the just (finally) completed bow section. All those ropes were easy to place, and pin-holes were not hiding (;-).
 
Yes, I did some preliminary rope installations at the foremast section and, as I had mentioned - not enough pin-holes. I will add pins to tighten up the lines and also need to avoid crossing things up. Also Karl I am using the rigging sheets that you sent me (Billings), along with the Vasa museum profile sheet - almost ignoring the Corel sheets. In any case - when the Vasa II book is published whatever I do will be wrong - Not an issue for me any more. Just want to make sure that all lines don't cross each other up. Also with furled sails I need to be cautious how I locate certain lines (inside or outside other sail lines)
 
B,E. As always thanks for your continued visits – Your suggestion is very plausible. Much appreciated – I had not thought of that – thanks for your kind words as well.
 
So I have completed the bow section. I promise that these photos will be the last from there !!
 
As always mates thanks so much for your advice, and likes.
 
Cheers,
 

Nice solution to your hand issue - I find rigging difficult with 2 good hands!
 
Mark

Very innovative work on the parrel, looks great from where I am sitting

Hello Everyone.
 
Again thanks for your likes and comments.
 
I'm moving along quite nicely now that I've got the confusing bowsprit out of the way. The rigging of the masts looks not too difficult to follow, just the finer points that need studying, mainly where and how the lines finish on the decks.
 
As you'll see from the pictures I've put in and rigged the upper yards, this was achieved by following Pete's diagrams.
 
Next up are the middle yards. Because of my hand issue I've previously had great difficulty in making up and attaching the parrels to the point where I decided not to include them. Here's the easier way that I came up with.
 
I use a small piece of wire glued into the spar to insert it into a hole in the mast to hold it in place whilst I rig the spar, I thought that why not do something similar with the parrels. Instead of cord I used blackened wire this was much easier to thread the beads and spacers. After threading I twisted the ends together to form small shafts which I trimmed, I then bent the whole thing to fit around the mast, we now have a solid unit with two wire rods facing forward, I drilled two holes in the spar for these to fit into. I fixed the spar to the mast then from the rear I slotted the compete parrels unit into the prepared holes in the spar, to finish off I wrapped some cord around the spar to make it appear to be lashed on. I can't tell even close up that it's anything but traditionally made. I think the pictures will clarify things.
 
Ken
 
 

I question the sanity of ANYONE who would sit and spend the untold thousands of hours doing what we do Mark.
As for myself, it keeps me from the temptation to go back to work.... picture me as a “Greeter” at Walmart.  

Ken, thanks for the kind words but it is your impressive work (and others) that keeps me stimulated to do more writing.
Pete 
 
 

Ken,
 
Impressive work - 

Martyn – much appreciated thanks so much,
 
JanV: Thanks for still following along. Appreciate the compliment as well. Yes, you have been very busy with your house – well worth closing the shipyard for a while.
 
Update NO – but a badly avoided major issue. I share the fix in case others may end up with this problem….and could prevent the possibility beforehand.
 
Was finishing up the bowsprit area rigging details and sort of noticed over the last couple of weeks or so that the bowsprit platform was well “not looking right” wiggling a bit as well – then decided to pay it some real attention.
 
Curses here was the problem! (with the entire section on the verge of collapsing as well). Those of you kind enough to follow and also read along might remember that I had mentioned snapping the flagstaff mast twice. Well that problem was not limited to just that tiny mast.
 

 
The brass wire certainly saved the entire section from collapsing.
 
So the fix:
 
Disconnected those six futtock shrouds as well as that block
 
Slivered in lots of glue into the open gashes,
 
Used forward pressure with other hand to close the wound, re-adjusted the platform - then impaled a drill bit through both masts.
 
Kept adding drill bit depth into the masts by re-adjusting the bit bite on the Dremel – to the point where the drill bit was almost totally inserted.
 
Drill bit stayed there – then used locking tweezers to secure the mess and let the glue cure.
 

 
Added bits of wood to add substantive filler within the gaps – also hoping to add rigidity.
 

 
Then went to another area of the house carrying an empty glass that needed filling (it was Sat night J) and let this wound close up overnight.
 

 
Today: snapped off the end of the drill bit, Dremeled the left over shard.
 
Decided to add a camouflage to the scars, it got really fixed but post-surgery was ugly (:-) and there were unacceptable visible gaps. The slivers of wood do hide the fix, even though not correct.
 
     A                                                            
 

Update :
 
planking completed, except for that of the the uppest stern grating deck.....,  one of the side rails put on, but not complete yet, stand stained in cherry wood color, and bow- and stern post fitted....
 
Nils
 

the pencil-line marking (waterline) is marked all around, the underwater ship wil prbably be painted white later on....

 
 

 
 

 
 

­Hello Everyone,
 
I think that I have now finished all the rigging relating to the bowsprit area. Just when I thought that the rigging plans couldn't get more confusing they did just that. As Mark mentioned the plan gets very crowded as there is so much in one area, then when you think you might have it worked out the lines disappear behind the sails which are also drawn in. I think that I could have deciphered the Da Vinci code more easily.
 
It was only with the excellent pictures posted by Mark and the guidance given by Pete's very helpful interpretive notes that I was able to do this area with I hope some semblance to how it should be done.
 
I have mentioned Pete's notes, for those that have made a Euromodel kit you will probably be aware of what I'm talking about, but for those who don't I'll explain as they are well worth looking at for many build solutions.
 
If you visit the excellent Euromodel  Como Italy, website  on the homepage there is a link headed Manuals, when opened you can select your model. Royal William is there and when selected it gives you access to a whole selection of downloadable PDF files each one covering in great depth a part of the build. There are many hundreds of pages that explain and show how that section can be done. It shows different ways of doing the same piece to achieve as much detail as you want. There has been a lot of research gone into this and it draws from experience of actually building the model, it includes many pictures, methods and tips from other modellers many from MSW. This was all compiled by our very own Piratepete007, it is freely available to all and he should be applauded, it's well worth a visit you might learn something.
 
Ken
 

Congratulations,she`s a real beautyYour workmanship is tops!
 
Mark

Congratulations,she`s a real beautyYour workmanship is tops!
 
Mark

Congratulations,she`s a real beautyYour workmanship is tops!
 
Mark

Ships Wheel completed......
 
Actually, after viewing this photo, I realized I still must apply a few coats of poly to achieve more of a gloss finish.  Also have not added the rope to the drum.
Other than that, the wheel is fairly done.

Congratulations,she`s a real beautyYour workmanship is tops!
 
Mark

Congratulations,she`s a real beautyYour workmanship is tops!
 
Mark

Congratulations,she`s a real beautyYour workmanship is tops!
 
Mark

Hi,,   Thanks Mark and Michael, for your comments, they're very welcome. No I'm not going to do any sails, even the thought terrifies me, I want to finish this build with some sanity left, which at the moment is a close run thing and with enough enthusiasm remaining to start a new project..
 
Ken

Thanks Martin, Limewood is really only of any use as  first planking on a double planked hull, for any sort of  finished wood items it is useless. Limewood dowel is also very suspect particularly in longer lengths, warping is a perennial problem. I do wish kit manufacturers would be more selective in the purposes for which it is provided.
Bowsprit iron re-fit
I realised that I had fitted the bowsprit ring at the stem at the wrong angle, pointing down rather than upwards as indicated on the Medway boat.
The original was a bit tight anyway so I took the opportunity to re-make the item with a slightly longer stem. Again I used silver solder to fabricate the ring.
2530
Deadeyes and Chainplates.
The supplied Deadeyes are of 3.86mm Ø which equates to a full scale of 7.29"Ø. By comparison the Topmast Deadeyes of a 14 gun sloop such as Pegasus are 7"Ø.
According to Steel the deadeyes for larger boats such as carried by ships of 110 - 64 guns were of 5" Ø =2.64mm at scale; and for below that (ie smaller Longboats) thimbles were listed.
As the Medway long boat model which is the basis of our model  had deadeyes I have decided to go with Chuck's Syren 3mm versions.
Chainplates
The instruction indicate the use of 28 gauge wire to make these.
For those who may not know, the higher the gauge number, the thinner the wire. 28 gauge is the thinnest of the kit supplied wire and equates on the AWG scale to  0.32mm Ø wire. In practice the kit wire is 0.40mm.
I formed them as suggested in the instructions but I silver soldered along the join as a more secure method. I also formed the Chainplates for the Shrouds with two eyes so that the deadeyes can be hooked into the plates as with the contemporary 'Medway' Longboat.
It took a bit of thinking about how to attach the hooks to the Deadeyes, and the best size of hooks to use to avoid an overscale look.
I finally settled on Syren 3mm brass etched hooks. 28 gauge wire was passed thro' the hook eye and secured with a spot of silver solder; the wire was then passed around the deadeye, nipped and secured with a spot of ca.

2513(2)
These were fiddly little things to make and the combined chainplate/ deadeye strop is certainly the easier option.
Still some fettlin' to do to finish them off.
Fairly straightforward to attach the chainplates to the hull, just need to ensure that the pins go into the frames to secure.

2527

2544

2555

2567
 
Just about ready for rigging now.
 
B.E.
 
 

Fitting out
With the spars completed the iron work for the Bowsprit is put into place.

4292
A little bit of fiddling to get the position right and give the Bowsprit a slight downward tilt. A shallow notch was cut into the first Thwart to assist a secure fix.

4274

4284

2377

4286

2418

2402

2413

2410

2371
Now back to the exterior to fabricate the deadeye chainplates.
 
B.E.
 

Many thanks to Al, Nils, Derek, and Mike for your interest and comments. 
Mast and spars.
I have not gone into further research regarding the mast dimensions, I will fine tune it by eye.
I divided the length from the thwart to the shoulder into quarters for the purpose of taper. From the plan 4mm at thwart, 3.6mm (1stQ) 3.5mm (2ndQ) 3.1mm (3rd Q) 2.5mm (Shoulder)
From the shoulder to mast cap; 2.2mm 2mm at centre, 1.8mm at truck.
A card gauge is used to monitor progress at the Quarters.

2236
The tapering was done on the Proxxon wood lathe.
 
Making of the Bowsprit, Gaff and Boom are fairly straightforward.

2237
The Gaff jaws were fashioned from some Boxwood sheet,  and it should be noted that the Boom is tapered each end from the centre where it thickens slightly.
Boom Iron
Always seeking the easy route I initially followed the kit instruction for making this; c.a. the ends and twist the extension to the horizontal before drilling the  hole for the Boom Gooseneck.

2238
This didn't work for me the c.a. failed to hold following the twist, so I reverted to silver soldering which achieved the objective.

2241

2246

2250
Trial fitting of the Boom iron.
The mast dowel takes some distress during the iron fitting process. Would have been better to use Boxwood for the spars I think.

2254
The completed iron set.
 
Mast colouring.
The problem with using the provided dowel is that getting a good finish using just varnish is tricky. Patchiness, uneven coverage, and strange over-scale grain patterns show thro'.
I found that sealing the dowel with matt varnish was necessary to seal the surface before applying my tinted varnish mix.
Several coats later with light in-between fine paper rub downs and I get the look I'm after.
So here's the completed masting set.

4297
The varnished parts were of a satin finish, and to complete they were coated with matt varnish.
 
B.E.
 

An inboard fitting and fiddlin' session.
To finish off the rudder I added the decorative panels. I had been waiting to get some Clear Self Adhesive Inkjet Sticker Label Film to print these out.

2084

2085
At only 70 microns thick it shows no edge profile and gives a good  impression of a painted on design.

0429
The lifting ring bolts are put into place and the mast support 'iron work' fabricated.

0453
I have now made a set of six oars and the Windlass Bars, and this basically completes the boat as fitted for rowing.
Regarding the Windlass Bars there doesn't seem to be any reference to the scale length of these items either on the plan or in the instruction book.
Had difficulty finding any reference to  bar length but I guess around five feet to provide satisfactory leverage.
Finally the Thole pins were added; I deviated from the kit arrangement by setting the boat up for double banked rowing which I think was the norm for Long-boats.

0434

0456

0475

02231

02228

0439
This has only been a seven week build to date altho' it feels much longer.
I now move onto the masting and rigging of this fine, if not at times troublesome little kit.
 
B.E.
 

Building the Rudder
As with the Pinnace model I have deviated from the kit arrangement for hanging the rudder.

As can be seen on the NMM model of the Medway Longboat, there are no cut outs in the rudder to take the pintles.
Lavery (Arming and Fitting) comments on this different approach to hanging the rudder on ships boats:
 
The rudder was hung on the sternpost by only two gudgeons and pintles. Unlike the rudder on a ship it was likely to be hung and unhung every time the boat was used and it needed to be easily removeable. The lower pintle was fitted to the sternpost rather than the rudder. It was very long and extended almost up to the waterline. The upper one was shorter and fitted to the rudder.

1898
A Boxwood replacement was made.
The fiddly bit with rudders is adding the straps for the gudgeons and pintles.

1959
I used thin brass strip chemically blackened for the straps indents were drilled into the surface to give a slight impression of nail heads.
Tape was used to guide the angles of the straps.
The process of attaching the straps inevitably marks the paintwork as can be seen in this photo.

1964
 The completed rudder.
 Work yet to do on the tiller, needs fining down some.
 

1969

1973
Moving back inboard now.
 
B.E.