marktiedens

This next bit is the engine firewall, engine block, and annular oil cooler. I haven't entirely glued them all together yet, as I still need to build and attach the cylinders to the block first. Each cylinder consist of 15 parts ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
 
Pardon me -- for a second there I was losing my grip on my sanity, but I think I'm okay now. Yes, 14 cylinders at 15 parts each makes 210 parts in total.
 
Fun. 🥴
 

good evening everyone
 
work continues, but i never thought it would be this difficult, the main deck is fine, but matching the deck below is very slow (i will never make a  model  ship builder)
sail room deck made up and fitted


lower deck in and secure, was also pinned 
getting the lodging knee on the port side the right shape is my biggest concern, but it is in line and the right height  for the hanging knee

lower deck in and secure, was also pinned 

sail room buikhead and pillars in
lining up the rest of the internal bulkeads

 
the upper deck is just for the photo
 

 
 

Hi 😊
Tanks Justin, tanks Allan, and tanks to all
 

Okay, the canopy and gun sight are now done. I had to cut the frames apart and fiddle around with them a bit to get them to fit, and the canopy is not a 100% fit either, as I mentioned earlier, but it will do.
 

Evening all, small bit of progress  -  the centre console shroud painted / weathered and fitted,   then there is a rear  section that needs gluing to the top fuslage, this needed a bit of fettling and a little putty and some light wet sanding, Two vents were also fitted.
 
OC.

Thank You
 
Moving on to the belfry rail.  This is pretty straight forward.  All of the parts are laser cut for you.  I carefully removed the laser char from each piece and then glued each rail together.  One thing worth noting is that the tops of the rail uprights are shaped like the typical  timberheads you have all seen.  But they can only have the shape laser cut on two sides.  You will need to sand or file the shape on the front end of each.  I just used a sharp #11 blade actually to cut in the angle for the top.  There is a laser etched line already on the piece to act as a stop-cut.   So I just sliced the angle back towards the etched line.  You can see one that has been shaped before painting below.
 

Another detail to mention is the fact that the fcastle deck has a roundup or camber to it.   In order to ensure these uprights for the rail are actually vertical, the bottom of each of them is laser cut at the appropriate angle for you.   Just make sure you face them all the correct way when you insert the uprights into the rail.   Insert them top-end first as I also laser cut a small stop into the bottom half of the uprights so you can keep the height of the rail consistent along all three pieces.   
 
There is also a small "L" shaped piece that is glued to the inboard end of each rail port and starboard.  Make sure you glue it to the correct side....otherwise the rail will not sit properly and will lean to one side because of the angled bottoms.
 

These "L" shaped pieces once glued to each rail also help position it on the fcastle.  It makes it impossible not to center them on the fcastle edge properly.   The one side of the "L" actually sits against the belfry.  It butts up against the belfry sides.
 
Oh and I almost forgot...you can round off the sheaves on the rail just like on the other fittings you made from parts like this.  Paint them black.
 

Slowly but surely the fcastle is filling up with details.   Next up will be the large knee at the bow followed by the catheads.
 
Any questions or comments?  Feedback...
 
 

Good morning.

After feeling being recalled to the Principal's office by @Chuck i decided it's time to finally open up those gunports:

 
They were never meant to stay the way they were, it was just laziness and putting it away to another time (and now Chuck gave me an Excuse to focus on some other tasks than the Galleries)
 
I am keeping the Char only in places which will either be invisible, or covered in black paint (but i do remove the laser-sheet tabs there and give them a light touch of 400-grit sandpaper which doesnt remove the char but smoothens the surface)
 
Also thanks Chuck for pointing out those wooden decoration pieces (Sheer rails) 
 
I was going to ask if i should round their edges
 
Also guys, it's not a Museum-Piece and let's chill a bit
 

The lower ratlines are now completed.

The lower shrouds, fore stay and preventer stay are now completed.

That wood looks really nice!
 
 
Mark

Thanks for all your comments and continued support!😉
The squad of soldiers from the 251 are basically finished 
Just some small touch ups to do
you'll  note the gun crew have removed the loose live shells but not the empty shell casings 
thanks for watching!
cheers

Evening all,   not much  to report this eve,   I spent a couple of hours and achieved  what felt like very little,   firstly  and cleaned up te seams  - in fairness not a lot was needed  just a light sand,  next I fitted the HUD  (just your basic bit of clear plastic)  then I painted the  front instrument  panel cover around the HUD  ansd along the inside edge of the of the  cockpit in Black  the rest of it will be covered by the canopy as I am doing it in the closed position.
Then I dry  fitted the front glazing  - this was fine so I simply glued it down  using  Revell Pro  cement applied with a  fine wire to the  edges  (this way it avoids getting too much on the  screen.
 
OC.

Greetings fellow modelers.  Thank you all for your wonderful comments and the “likes”.  After a couple of months away from modeling this little diorama has called me back.
 
Wall Details and General Clutter
 
I have finished populating the back wall with things, stuff and junk.  Or at least I think I'm finished.  In subjects like this, it seems there is never enough detail – never enough stuff.  More and more items keep coming to mind that really should be included but mercifully I have run out of room.  In fact, the arbor press I made back on post #38 will be left out because there is just no good place for it.  That's always a risk making details in advance instead of letting the model tell you what is needed as it progresses.  Anyway, here is a short update.
 
A storage unit with drawers is made of basswood that was pre-stained.
 

 
 
The face frame for the drawers is paper. The drawer fronts are stuck down on double sided tape and tiny specks of CA are applied to each, then the unit is flipped on top.
 

 
 
The drawer pulls are slices of painted half-round styrene.
 

 
 
The problem with cubbies and shelves is that you can't leave them empty.  Cans are a good way to fill some of the holes and they are easy to make.  Printing onto tissue paper then gluing it to wood dowels and/or styrene rod produces a decent can.  It doesn't really matter what the print says because no one will be able to read it anyway.
 

 
 
Other little bits of things are glued on.
 

 
 
The compressor against the back wall is a white metal casting from Durango Press.  I added a start station and “black iron” pipe that feeds the air hose by the door.  The hose is blackened solder.
 

 
 
A basswood bench is made.  The bench grinder is a Rio Grande Scale Models piece and the torch came out of my junk box and I don't recall who cast it.
 

 
The image below shows the completed back wall (the mezzanine above is still empty.)  The barrel stand was made previously on post #48 and the remainder of the items are a combination of scratch and modified castings.  Some of the wall signs I printed while others are from JL Innovations.  All were sanded on the back side to reduce thickness and then dirtied up with ink/alcohol.  The pit rail is .022” phosphor/bronze wire that was soldered together and blackened.
 

 

 
Thanks for swinging by to take a look.
 
Gary

as mentioned,  the props went on next.......small problems arose.  two of the decals broke in half........managed to get them back together enough to use.  the pilot tubes and the radar bulb were added,  but not painted yet.  the Archer decals posed a problem of their own.  I had no idea that the sheet was a sheet of film,  with the stars embossed on them,  so the first one {the largest one} has a rather large amount of film around it.  depending on the light though,  it can hardly be seen........I'll keep that in mind for the future    I didn't put any numbers on her,  nor lettering,  since she's a fictitious plane and I didn't give any thought of where she belonged.  one good thing is that she does appear to be sitting on all three wheels.........this is due to that skid plate that is located near the tail.  so she won't need a stand or base.  so basically.......all that is left is to finish the painting and add the nose glass.  I thought I'd give you a preview of what she looks like..........

the starboard rudder decided to come loose.......of course,  that decal was the one that split in two.  it had dried and fell off and the Malay occurred when I went to put it back on.  I removed it and reglued it.......it's all good now  

 

I was still undecided how I was going to arrange the stars......even more so when I found out about the type of decals they were.   they are of different sizes,  which would have made cutting them close near impossible.  so, the smaller they got,  the more I avoided doing it.

I have a second set of banners........flames in the design of the flag.  I was going to put them on the topside of each nacelle,  but they are different designs.......banners and flames,  so I opted not to put them there.  instead,  I just used the banners and put them on the fuselage.

the tail gunner turret........
 
from the front......I don't know whether to salute or to cheer Evil Kenevil on!   

here are a couple of shots with the crane lamp on.

 

I'll pop a few more off when she's totally finished  

I got more done.......I'd say I'm as close to the finish line.....   the only parts left is the nose glass,  which is almost framed out.......handling is removing the paint as I go.  this is producing a less than stella job,  than the cockpit glass,  but I'm not going to go back over it {just what appears to be rubbed off}.  I put the bombardier / nose gunner seat in place and painted it.

...and without flash

I did begin to add decals too.......you'll see more soon   the wing decals were also put in place.....due to the crispness of the riveting,  it split the top wing decal.  I tried to fix it,  but it is there to stay.....so I'll concede.

due to the guns,  the tail gunner's turret was put in close to the end as well.  the props followed after that.

 

the session continued........

The gun crew are done! Don't look too closely,  my figure painting is still rusty!😉
Thanks for looking in!
 
I would love to see more photos Darius😊
Cheers 

Evening all,   another evening at the bench/table  type thingy,   so  it was  airbrush time again  - first  was the Black primer, so I used by trusted Vallejo  and gave the inside pit walls  and the jet pipe,  then after drying  I used my Mid Grey on the walls  - a couple of light coats did the job, then it was the turn of some oily Alum  for the jet pipe (I wasn't too fussy as its only the last couple of Mill  taht you see).
 
After putting my airbrush away (after cleaning the needle)  I  checked with  instructions  and it was now  joining time of the Two sides,   firstly the pit was glued in place on the one side - then some weight was found  for the nose, I found a bit of steal and encased it in bluetack  and with some more bluetack positioned  also  - that made more tahn enough weight.
Then glue on the one edge and pushed home  - the join is that good it did not need any  elastic bands or clips  just some gentle hand presure  while lining the seams up, it will only need the slightest sand.
 
So this is tonights state of play.
 
OC.

Evening all,    some good progress  on the bench  -  I started off by  doing a wash over the seats and tub, then after drying  I used a White dry brush  to weather it a bit  and bring out the details, after drying  they were glued in place.
 
Next stage  (going by the instructions)  was to  cut away the Two fuse  sides, the  Jet pip assy,   the front u/c  well, the rudder  and  a few small items,   firstly I dry fitted the tub in situ  with both sides  - "A very nice fit",    next  off was to assemble the  jet pipe parts, not to much fuss  as it wont be seen when its buried inside the fuselage,  then I glued in place the rudder.
 
That's  basically where I am now.
 
OC.

And finally the engine and display are finished :
 

 

 
The tracks and sleepers of course are cardboard as well :
 

Hi 🙂

Amazing - I just can`t stop looking at your beautiful work!.  Thank you for sharing.
 
Mark

First crack at it....This took all day to make.  The original draft actually has quite a detailed drawing of this which is a bit wider and shorter than the contemporary model depicts.   Its very interesting and helpful when you find a draft like this. So I will share it with you.
 

 
I will explain the step by step..
 



 
 

Time to finish this build
Added some rust and some bare metal here and there.
Glued the model on a base plate and gave a matt black wash.

Tagged and stored with his T34 and SU brothers and sisters.

Thanks everyone for following, comments and likes.

Post Thirty
 
Looking at the guns
At this point I make up a gun because it will prove useful in checking the level of the ports.
Sphinx was fitted with Armstrong pattern Nine pounder guns which had a length excluding the cascobal of 7’ 6”.
 
The barrel
The kit has resin guns which are spot on for scale, and look very realistic, incorporating  both Royal cypher and vents.
They are so impressive that for the first time in my model building career I will forsake  the blackened brass versions I usually favour.
The muzzle face is nicely finished, the bore is scaled, and the reinforcing rings cleanly moulded. These barrels need no cleaning up such as the  removal of moulding lines etc.
When I think back to the appalling Amati guns supplied with their Pegasus kit, this is light years ahead.
 
Well done Chris.
 
The Carriages
The good
These are nicely finished in Pearwood.
 
The trucks are engraved with both bolt holes and section joints, and the Brackets have the engraved planking line which represents the two parts that usually made up the Brackets.
In reality these were secured with iron straps on the inside of the carriage.
 
I am pleased to see that the trucks have round holes rather than the square versions supplied with the Alert kit.
 
Chris has innovatively designed the capsquares as an integral part of the  brackets. This has the advantage of securing the barrels, always a fiddly job when capsquares are separately added. This also makes it easier to add the Capsquare eye and joint bolts.
My initial slight reservation about whether the capsquares looked too chunky was dispelled once I had assembled the gun.
 
The not so good
I am still not a fan of the provided etched eyebolts for the brackets. They look clunky to my eye, and the Breeching bolt lacks the ring thro’ which the breeching rope passes.
As with my previous builds I will replace these with more convincing Ring bolts and tackle loops.

03531(2) Gun Carriage as fitted to Cutter Alert model.
 
I find that Amati fine eyepins and rings are perfect for the Breeching rings.
Even with these deficiencies which are easily addressed the guns overall are very nice, similar to to the ordnance supplied by Chuck with his Syren models.
 
Assembly
First job, gently remove the char from visible edges, I use a home made sanding stick for this purpose.

0873
Secondly, gently round the  truck axles to fit  thro’ the trucks. This takes very little, a slight rounding on the corners is sufficient.
To assemble the guns the brackets require pre-painting because once the barrels are in place access to the inner areas is limited.

0915
The Trucks are fitted on a wooden toothpick to sand off the char around the rims.
With the char left in place it looks like the iron rims fitted to land based guns, a real no,no, onboard a ship.
With the trucks fitted to the axles I am pleased to see there is sufficient length to drill micro holes to take the keys.
 
Fettlin’ the barrels.
This is required before they are fitted to avoid any marring of the carriage paintwork.
I am looking at using weathering powder to to create an ‘iron’ finish, using Chuck’s approach.
Wash the barrel.
Spray with fixative, I use Winsor & Newton professional.
Apply weathering powder, and buff off with a soft brush.

0891
My pop up spray booth.

0887(2)
The basic resin gun.
 
Under macro I note a fault with the button, unfortunately on the top side. I checked the rest of the guns and a similar deformation was present in a further five of them.
Not a great problem to put right, but it is an additional job to do.

0901(2)
Fixative applied.

0903(2)
Weathering powder applied, I used Revell Rust Red.

0907(3)
Finished gun with buffed surface.
 
Before fitting the barrel between the Brackets I paint the capsquares. For this I use Vallejo  Black Grey which gives a good scale iron effect.
This area is too small to apply weathering powders without the risk of marring the paintwork.

0927(2)

0931(2)

0940(2)
Fairly satisfied with the result.
 
Final check, how does it sit on the deck.

0944

0947

0951

0955
This gun remains unfinished; I’ll re-visit the ordnance later, but for the present it’s back to port lining.
 
B.E.
26/10/21