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biltut

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About biltut

  • Birthday 02/20/1947

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    Roanoke, VA

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  1. I will second the comments above and add the suggestion to keep an extra bottle of thinner available while spraying to clean the brush between sprays, for instance when you stop for a few moments to rearrange your parts. Even for a couple minutes I will run a quick cleaning spray of thinner through to prevent gumming up. It doesn't take but a second or two for these fine needles to clog. Good Luck! The produce a beautiful finish.
  2. Yeah, the diameter varies with the cheaper drill bits and then when I get to checking it, I even find the 61-80 gauges seem to vary, again with the exception of Starrett. You are right it doesn't really affect our modeling needs but I guess I am just running out of patience as an "old guy" when tolerances even on the less expensive stuff were much closer. It certainly isn't just limited to tooling, you can't even buy a coat or pair of shoes without some discrepancy in the sizes. I guess my tolerance levels just need some adjusting .
  3. I have suffered through this problem for years. I acquired an excellent set made by the J. I. Morris Co. in the US many years ago and purchased extra taps to cover breakage. They only had the four sizes 00-90,0-80,1-72 and 2-56. Also had a Japanese set that was much smaller but have no idea where I got that set and haven't seen any of those available anywhere. I searched to see if Morris was still carrying them and they don't appear available on their website but a search disclosed the following: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/morris-miniature-tap-die-set-481307855 This is like my set and these are very high quality. My suggestion would be to watch E-Bay as suggested in the above listing. All of this other stuff is about the equivalent of small numbered drill sizes and the chinese drill guages. You just can't count on the sizes of these drill bits unless you get the very high quality and the Starrett drill gauges seem to me to be the only accurate ones.
  4. I will second Bob's comments. The Dumont tweezers are beyond compare. You can keep them sharpened on a stone when necessary and every time I buy one of the cheaper versions I am always disappointed. They can be bought on ebay for fairly competitive prices. Bob Cleek also mentioned the Proportional Dividers with rack and pinion which are also available on ebay for very reasonable prices at times. I find myself reaching for these constantly to transfer dimensions for different plans which are not drawn to the same scale.
  5. Great Job!!!! Makes me ashamed of myself for buying one. May still go back and try to duplicate the beautiful machine you made.
  6. I will reaffirm comments made by John Allen and Mark. I have been building model ships for over 40 years and used CA glue exclusively on rigging for the first 25 years or so. The I began to see articles written by some of the professional model makers warning about the long term affects of using CA. Brittleness, shiny look and breaking. Over the years, I have many of these knots on previously built models that need repair. The only time I use CA on rigging is to straighten the ends when having problems getting the line through holes and when mounting difficult to reach eyebolts in various locations. I use diluted Hide Glue or diluted white glue as mentioned above on all rigging.
  7. I have to agree with Cliff Ward. The Cameron Drill Press is wonderful. I, too, have had mine for over 40 years and it is a great accurate machine. Coupled with the little x-y table you can do just about anything. I like mine so much that I picked up another on E-Bay last year for my second home and workshop. Once again as Cliff said it is not cheap but it will last a lifetime. The manual 164 is the one that I have. Didn't check the current price but watch E-Bay as they show up every now and then. http://cameronmicrodrillpress.com/product/cameron-series-164/
  8. Ben, Many thanks for posting this....was not aware that it is available. Just ordered one!
  9. Danny, Thanks for the quick reply. They certainly are more handsome than the black ones that are accompany the DRO's now. From the photos of the lathe it sure looks like you have a nicely set up shop. Are there any other pictures on the Forum of other areas of your workspace. Since I got the DRO I am thinking about building a small stand with a drawer in it for my lathe. And then I will probably want to do the same thing with my Mill. This kinda stuff gets out of control for me and is the main cause of my models taking so long to finish. I will start out with ideas of something simple, then it progresses to hand cut dovetails and so on. From the looks of what I have seen of your shop, you suffer from some of the same issues.
  10. MIKE/DANNY: I got the DRO set up on my mill and liked it so much I bought another unit without the display for my lathe. Danny you have a really neat set up on yours. Did the encoders come with the red handwheels when you bought yours, or did you fashion them somehow later. I really hated to give up my Adjustable-Zero red handwheels but the DRO comes with some generic looking black wheels.
  11. This Sherline DRO is on sale this month at Sherline for anyone that is interested. Usual disclaimer, no connection but just purchased one.
  12. Cliff, Not trying to answer for Druxey but I usually split the bamboo down to a smaller size with a scalpel or xacto and then begin to pull through the drawplate.
  13. Fellow Modelmakers, I am bringing this subject back to life for two reasons. First of all to thank Druxey for his original post of introduction to Mihail Kirsanov and his fine chisels as well as Vossiwulf for the pictures and review that he posted. Secondly, to let everyone know that these are available again for anyone interested. After reading the original posts, I contacted Michael and attempted to order a set of these only to find that he was out of town and would not be producing them until October of this year. By some stroke of luck, my feeble mind recalled this information and I contacted him in October and ordered a set. As previously noted by others, the order from Russia was painless, paid with PayPal and received the chisels within 16-20 days of shipping. I do not want to bore you folks with a reiteration of the past posts but these chisels are beautiful and far superior to anything I have seen offered anywhere else. I have seen pictures of his model work and he is also a fine modelmaker as you would expect. As mentioned before, there will be a learning curve on sharpening but Michael provides instructions for this by e-mail. Druxey has previously offered to provide his contact info if interested and I will do the same by PM. I would also remind you as stated in the previous e-mails that Mihail does not speak English so you will have to use some form of translation software. I found Google to be very easy to use.
  14. Derek, Take a look at the Articles Database section of this forum, under Materials and Tools. Phil Krol's Ropewalk is listed here. Very well written with a great deal of details. I built one of these years ago and it works beautifully. I used an old belt driven dental motor for power. These can be found on E-Bay at a reasonable price and most of them have the option to reverse the motor. If this interests you and I can be of any further help let me know.
  15. Bill, Always heard to stay away from tea, even diluted, will deteriorate over time. Mark mentioned this earlier in this thread.

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