NenadM

Bob, this flu is tough son of a bitch. My functioning these days is based on Fervex/Coldrex, lemon, tea. etc etc. In the morning, my legs wake up and stand me up, but head stays in bed a long time after. Somehow then going to the office and get through the day, but the afternoon ... lunch, bump in bed, after that, same picture as in the morning ... every night visit Her majesty, say some Hmmmm thing, and then say F...it, and return to room and gape to TV waiting time to go to sleep In Belgrade start really autumn, there is no more work in home-yard, winter is long and I hope to progress faster. In mean time reading some books about rigging and different rigging manuals for Her Majesty .... tough job of rigging is still waiting ... it will be very hard PS Thx for popcorns

@Popeye, not in Belgrade, not in Serbia

From time to time we all must pay some price because our tongue was faster than the brain ... Happy kitchen modeling ... In picture above is my fast tongue two years ago when Admiral gets wild about cleaning dust from workdesk ... "Yes, I can solve the problem of cables behind workdesk". Cables belong to: PC + camera + microfon + headphones cables of music mixete cables of keyboards cables of 5.1 music system TV/internet/telephone cables wifi instalation cables to connect music studio in attic of my son 220 V power supply for all this things + all transformers .... two weeks in this position .... yeah ... next time keep your mouth shout Nenad

Nice and precise work, Bob, and it looks god and in scale. Just thinking : they are 38+38 = 76 and jig is made of wood. Every entry of tool in jig wide it a little bit, so here is danger that panel No70 could be wider than panel No3 I experimented with this method of making trench, and I was not satisfied with lines and angles of trenches. If you put in back contrast colour without inserting white pieces, this little anomalies will be pretty visible ( if somebody look at them individually with magnify glass ) In my panels I try to get straight edge lines (in some I succeed, in some not) and then find solution in playing with contrast. Inserting pieces of white plastic in my trenches were cuted by scalpel and have absolutely straight longitudinal lines, and trenches are very little wider than a white pieces, so I could rotate them transverse a little if it is necessary to get them horizontal and parallel. And, if panels are only 1 x 8 mm, anomalies of trenches with so much darker colour of trenches and surface are less visible I played with contrast also with rounded edges of white pieces. How to round it in straight semicircle if they are about 1,2-1,5 mm wide ? So, I cut little angles as on drawn attached, and from distance in opposite of darker surface, they look rounded Go on, I follow with great interesting Nenad

@ Mark: If you love/loved Marvel comics, and if you are a bit of kid deep inside yourself (as every grown man is, even a little), and if you like fairy tales, action, fabulous video effects, it is worth and fun

It is not fair. She has already watched Ice Age 1,2,3,4,..... on Samsung Smart Led 42", and I have watched Avatar only on laptop ... No progress today .... torture at the dentist ...lazy afternoon .... and a movie for myself (The Avengers) ....Admiral was to her mother ...

... meanwhile ... hmmmmmm the biggest problem for me was to keep the parallel lines ...

What do you think, my friends: In the same time on tv are : Avatar (I watched it 3 times) and Ice Age IV ( Admiral watched 15 times). What we will watching?

It seems that the flu is not serious one. I'm sitting in the office and "working" (happiness is that today is a public holiday so I do not have anywhere to budge), after that go to a family dinner, and at afternoon .... we'll see The sequence of steps bothers me ... for now, I am intend to first finish panel bulwarks and mount them second - finish and mount whole top rail then to come back to hull to correct and establish all ( aaaaaaaaaaaaal) the curvatures and lines, and to do second planking and coopering after that ( with 2 or 5 fender garnish ) ... not to forget important thing : STERN It will laaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaast

Bob, do you follow this and think about ? http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1000-cutty-sark-by-keelhauled-mantua-kit-bashed-first-wooden-ship-build/page-4#entry121720

I am following your build with great interest. Keep on posting, pls Nenad

Nailed in bed with viral flu, slumber whole day, tea, and soup, tea again, and another tea, and soup, and Fervex ... booring ... I can not lay any more, and can not get on the feet with clear head .... in a circle ... can not read ... so much television for one day Go to the shipyard for a while, can not work precisely I want Bob, I wish you luck in fight with yourself Morning is clever than evening

So do I, Brian

One step forward First bulwark with panels is done. It looks OK and in scale Edit november 11 2013: I forgot to mention that I have to remove (sand) almost all covering sadoline and to put it again in very thin layer

That is exactly idea, Math. I started pretty quite confusing and without a clear picture what to do, and when I discovered MSW, I realized: 1. I can do it much better than I started 2. that I have to do a lot better than I started. Learning, practiceing, collecting ideas, thinking in advance prior, testing and experimenting, having a fun above all, and I try to do my best. Mistakes about which I dont see on time run me in problems, and I try to correct them and not start from begine. In my country there is a saying: "persistent ox" . My father use to say: "College finish persistent oxen, and not geniuses". He was right - same is in the life

First time when I had seen pictures of new dry dock, first asociation was : some bird (still beauty) sitting in the nest with eggs Later I realized that it have to be sea .... or ocean ... or something

@Bruce, I agree with you. Now in Greenwich you can not see all beautiful lines of Her majesty. What were they thinking of with "glass sea" ?

After several attempts and experiments, however, I chose a "plastic" version, and here is result ( little pieces of crap which smuggle into the photo will be removed) I am pretty satisfied with result, and this is surely better than previous drunked version And, Bob, let us for a while return to your question in post #237. Different panel length, it is sure. But, in my scale, difference is less than 1 mm, and I am not sure about if that differences will be visible at all, especially if takes into account that most of the white panels will be visually "masked" with dead-eyes, nails, ropes etc. However, during making trenches, especially during making panels and during installing them, I realized that I have not enough skill to make every single trench and panel the apsolutely same length, so one is 8,5 mm other is 8,2 mm etc. As you said, I can live with this. I think that the most important thing with panels is to hit and to affect the visual similarity with original panels on CS as much is possible. And I expect with great interest your attempt of white panels.

For Spencer Trench 1 mm wide is in the middle of strip 5 mm wide

Hello Matt I like your method of comparison and research before drawing concrete steps Go on, I`ll follow

I did not try "plastic" today. In shipyard I concluded that trenches must be little deeper, and did it, and made another layer of sadolin There are some pictures down for you, Spencer, and I hope this is what you ask for. Bulwarks are fresh "painted", and moisture reflects light and it is no clear to see ( HTC WILDFIRE has only 5 MP camera and make bad pictures without daylight). If you need that, I can draw you a rough sketch Tomorrow maybe I shall make them little deeper ( I shall see after trying to install some pieces of panels) and maybe another layer of sadoline And, as usual, next question arise RIGHT COLOR If you are able to find exactly the same type of wood of which original bulwarks, top rail and nail holder are made, there is no problem. Just put some varnish for wood over and that is it. But, if you do not have this, you must simulate right color with some kind of stain coating. Solid color is out of question, so much plastic look And here is problem: Different manufacturers make different shades of same name/declaration of sadolin. Even you try to mix two or more stain coating, this is not and never will be equal as original nature wood. So, in one moment you must get a decision without possibility to rewind Here is example: Two manufactures and their shades for mahogany. And you dont know when you are bying what is exactly inside, and how it will apply and interact to the sort of wood you use. Also, there are different sorts of it, with/without warish inside, with/without wax inside, made on the base of wather or not ....... Trying ... how many liters you have to bye to try, and you need not more than 100-200 mg Having in mind that, if I choose to put color on bulwarks later, that will probably be next episode of movie "Mission impossible" ,so, dont expecting this, I suddenly find myself on this stage, and must decide. This color is my decision, and think it will be OK

CS fleet ! I like it Somewhere Rob had said very important thing: Think about next 4-5 steps forward stage you exactly are. Lines of ship and their relations !!!!! I did not do this, and now it is a headache In next sketch you can see what I mean. Rob will get supplemental traps

All depends of your ambition and money

Brian, you can always do it in complicated way adding details, as Bob did and model will be better than only from kit. Depends of your ambitions, skill, time, and will

@ Tony, I was thinking about that method as easy and fast, but I decided to try first with injection of small pieces of veneer , or with other material I am just thinking of. Very thin white plastic for instance ... ( 0,5 mm) @ Bob, there was not beer. Only Ness coffie. Beer is fine when outside is hot. Now, it is autumn, and it is cold outside ( about 100c with rain and wind) and beer dont fit me. My idea is to simulate as much it is possible real CS, where panels are inland, as Bob said above 30-35 years ago working on my first wooden model - Santa Maria - I experimented with cards and different type of glue combined with ... and ... Hmmmm .... or beter : .... mhhhhh Also on first try of CS in same period, I could not do anything with long strips in proper way, so I experimented making planks with cards as a second layer, and results of that method surely do not fit my today criteria. That was ... no words today for that solution. Planking was the point I stopped work on first CS. It was impossible to sand it and to fit it, and to glue anything over. Also coopering was impossible. 30 years ago I have no idea about coopering, and about CS standing in Greenwich, no photos, no additional plans and instructions, only my poor Tehnodidakta Main reason not to use cards is that cards can be very ungrateful when get in touch with liquid (sadolin, stain coating, paint etc) and can absorb liquid, can swell or can separate on layers on whole surface or in the edges, and that can be very ugly. I intend to try tonight "plastic" method, and we ll see what will happened. If you look at photos of white panels very very carefully, it no seems as wood. To me, it rather seems as plastic, or some "plastic reflection" white paint. To much and to clear white and bright shades for wood. Even in pictures from different periods. But, in XIX century plastic did not exist, so, rather is some kind of white paint. Maybe the truth is in the middle - veneer painted white before installation ? I shall try all of that, put some photos here, and ask you what are you thinking about this. (It will be fun. On my scale, panels will be max 1 mm wide and 8-9 mm long) Was anybody there and see or touch Her holly panels ?