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ccoyle reacted to a post in a topic: Vought SB2U Vindicator by ccoyle - Kartonowa Kolekcja - 1/33 - CARD
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yvesvidal reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Cumberland 1774 by Jack H - 1:36 &1:48 - POF - kit development for True Image Models
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yvesvidal reacted to a post in a topic: St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
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yvesvidal reacted to a post in a topic: St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
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yvesvidal reacted to a post in a topic: Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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Old Collingwood reacted to a post in a topic: USS Aries (PHM-5) by modeller_masa - FINISHED - HobbyBoss - 1/200 - PLASTIC - Pegasus class hydrofoil
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yvesvidal reacted to a post in a topic: Vought SB2U Vindicator by ccoyle - Kartonowa Kolekcja - 1/33 - CARD
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modeller_masa reacted to a post in a topic: USS Aries (PHM-5) by modeller_masa - FINISHED - HobbyBoss - 1/200 - PLASTIC - Pegasus class hydrofoil
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cotrecerf reacted to a post in a topic: Le Chebec by Yvesvidal - CAF Model - 1/48
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A few progress on the stern and its decoration. The rear panel is made of three parts: The main sculpture is prepared on the bench: Although very delicate, this assembly inserts itself nicely in the stern of the ship. Et voila. I am going to take a short break from this vessel and do other things in the meantime. Thank you for following and for all the positive feedback. Yves
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It is hard to believe that this is 1/200 scale. It looks so realistic and perfect. Yves
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- Russo-Japanese War
- Mikasa
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I just completed a very delicate phase of the build: the rudder and tiller. I wanted these to be movable while keeping the capability to take them apart, as this assembly is very fragile. The hinges are photo-etched parts which is not the easiest for making something sturdy and working. The kit of the HMS Bellona offered brass cast parts which are a lot more solid and well designed than what the Chebec kit offers. This is how I approached the conundrum: A small piece of brass ( diameter 1.2 mm) is soldered against the photo etched parts provided in the kit. This is then chemically blackened (and later on painted...) and placed in shape around the rudder: Using electronic components pins, I insert the pins into the wood (diameter 0.7 mm), solder the pins to the PE part in about 4 locations. A little bit of sanding and painting on top, make it look decent. I could not find nails small enough to fit into the PE parts. Of course, while soldering, you want to make sure the wood is not burnt or overheated. It is all very delicate. The female parts going along the stern keel are the most delicate to adjust. Again flat PE not easy to put in form. Here I am using small pieces of tube (material similar to teflon) and I glue them in place along the stern. The rudder pivots very smoothly and there is no jerking. Then the same approach (pins, soldering) is done on the stern, making sure the PE parts are hugging tight the small piece of tubing. Additional CA glue is used to keep everything in line and happy. Verification of the rudder motion: The Boxwood carving is then glued to the rudder and painted black and then dry-brushed with Tamiya gold leaf. CAF Model did a great job at 3D machining this little carving: Once installed, the tiller is inserted into the rudder: The hole is tight enough and holds the tiller without any glue. Motion is possible: Et voila. Needless to say, this assembly is going to be removed, stored and will be back on the model, when is it completed. Yves
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