captainbob

I finally got a start on the Mariefred.   The drawings I received from the museum in Stockholm were the best drawings I have ever received.  When I get drawings of a boat the first thing I do is scan them into my computer and open them in an ancient copy of AutoCad.   Then I check length, breadth and height as though I were designing her.  Usually there are errors that must be corrected.  But these drawings lined up and were correct.  When designing a boat the designer draws one side of each bulkhead these then have to be redrawn and each one needs to be mirrored to make a full width bulkhead.  These are then transferred to and cut out of wood sheet and mounted on a board.  That is where I am at the moment.
Bob

Lawrence,  thanks for stopping by.  I wish I were farther along but due to chronic family health problems, I only get to work on the boats, 1 - 2 hours a day, if that.  The rest of the time I'm the care giver, cook, House cleaner and . . .  Enough of that.  The Mariefred is a riveted steel boat.  And I like Nils I hope to plate her, something I've never tried before.  The other problem is figuring out what to use for some of the parts.  The upper deck supports and seating frames are 35 X 35 mm angle iron or 1.38" at scale that is .0138.  I have seen other models where they have used larger material for these parts and they end up looking bulky and out of scale.  Ah well that's the kind of problem all model builders go through.  I know, I'll set up a foundry and extrude my own material.  (Pardon the humor).
 
Bob

Part 8 – Frames, cont’d
 
Framing Kathryn has been continuing – albeit slowly.  There have been a lot of other activities interfering with the modeling work, so there hasn’t been as much progress as I would have liked.
 
It quickly became apparent that the model’s frames are very delicate, and some additional steps were needed to strengthen them.  This resulted in some additional structures that are not in the actual boat, but these structures will be hidden by planking and shouldn’t cause any issues.
 
The first such structure was the addition of a reinforcing plate at the joint between the frame floor and the frame side.  This plate was added after the chine had been shaped and the glued-on drawing removed.  After the glue attaching the plate to the frame had dried, the plate was then sanded to match the curve of the chine.  The following photo shows one of these plates in place.
 

 
The individual frames are only attached to the keelson with a minimal glue joint, so individually these frames are very easy to disturb.  By tying the frames together the frame assembly would be much stronger.  I decided to tie them together by using 1/8 x 1/8 stock, cut to match the distance between frames at the keelson.  Since this distance varies from frame to frame, the braces needed to be measure individually.  They are then installed at approximately the midpoint of the frame floor to join the frames together.
 
The first frame installed – frame 12 – was held perpendicular to the keelson by the c-clamps shown in the following photo, and then the subsequent frames were joined to that frame via the braces.  The c-clamps were left in place until the first 4 frames were joined and the glue set. 
 

 
The first 4 frames were very stable after the glue had cured, and didn’t need to be held in place for installation of bracing for subsequent frames.  It was easier to use the long-nosed spring clamps for this work, rather than the miniature machinist clamps used in the prior photo.
 

 
As described in the prior post, structural bolts would be used to fully secure the frames to the keelson, and pilot holes for these bolts were drilled as part of the construction of the frames.
 
After the installation of the first six square frames (12 through 17) was completed, it was time to insert the first set of structural bolts.  The model was removed from the shipway and placed in an adjustable keel clamp.  This clamp was positioned so that the pilot holes were visible. 
 

 
This allowed drilling through the pilot holes and into the keelson, as in the following photo.  Pieces of 3/64 brass rod were then epoxied into these holes to serve as structural bolts.
 

 
While the model was in the clamp, the forward edges of the mortises for the cant frames were angled to allow the cant frames to be properly positioned.  This work was performed with a diamond bit in a rotary tool.
 

 
The middle 8 square frames are now in place.  Since each half of a frame is a separate installation, this is the equivalent of 16 frames having been installed.
 

 
The frames installed so far have not needed any dubbing (shaping) to allow the planks to lay flat against them.  The remaining seven square frames in the rear of the model will need shaping.  In addition, the forward eleven frames are cant frames, which will require a modified installation procedure.  These topics will be covered in the next post.
 
Thanks everyone! 

Not only have you put up all the guy wires, but you even added the two wire clamps at the end of each one.  Here you are building at 1:144 while I am finding 1:100 difficult. Lovely detailing, Nils.
 
Bob

Be careful not to press too hard on the wood to sand faster.  It is easy to get the dust too hot and it will look a darker color than the original. 
 
Bob

It has been a busy couple of week but I wanted to be able to drill small holes with very small drills in metal using the 3/32 shank and 1/8th shank drills.
After looking around at what is available I decided I would build my own.
 
It went through a number of iterations during the build
 

The first version had a round quill but i was not happy with it so went for a square one with a dovetail slide.
 

The other thing i was not happy about was the mistake of putting the rack at the front, this created an issue of direction so added a second pinion, needless to say is was beginning to feel like a rabbit hole that was getting deeper.
 
This is the current state of the press the motor is a 9v dc one and seems to have enough Jam for the tiny drills.
 

 

 
I have been drawing it up as a design build and making the changes as things change.
 
Michael
 
 

I guess I've been away from RC too long.  I've never heard of sealing the deck that way, but it's a lot easier than what I used to do.  Good job.  Can't wait to see her in the water.
 
Bob

It's always a design challenge when adding radio equipment.  You're doing a fine job.
 
Bob

I guess I've been away from RC too long.  I've never heard of sealing the deck that way, but it's a lot easier than what I used to do.  Good job.  Can't wait to see her in the water.
 
Bob

Not only have you put up all the guy wires, but you even added the two wire clamps at the end of each one.  Here you are building at 1:144 while I am finding 1:100 difficult. Lovely detailing, Nils.
 
Bob

My motto is an abridged version of yours...*When in doubt, rip it out.....but.... if it took weeks to install or no one or their brother will ever see or notice it....Let it slide...Paint it if you have to.
 
Rob(Master of camouflage )

I guess I've been away from RC too long.  I've never heard of sealing the deck that way, but it's a lot easier than what I used to do.  Good job.  Can't wait to see her in the water.
 
Bob

I guess I've been away from RC too long.  I've never heard of sealing the deck that way, but it's a lot easier than what I used to do.  Good job.  Can't wait to see her in the water.
 
Bob

Hi Michael - glad to have you along.
 
I am thinking along the same channels at the moment, but then what can be done at all of the overlaps, where the staves cross?  If I use brass rod the double thickness will make for a very visible lumpy surface, rather than the smooth surface that photoetching would give me.  And now I am leaning towards Druxey . . . 
 
This sort of thing keeps me up at night - in a good way.  For me, it is one of the best parts of ship modeling.
 
Be well
 
Dan

Thank you Druxey. 
 
Greg - thank you, good point.
 
Only a little progress today:-
 
I made the mounting feet for the crutch and attached it to the deck. The feet are quite small - a smidgen over 1/8 inch cube.
 

I also made the deck mounting for the "red duster". Made of two parts soldered together and machined.
 
And then polished
 
 

Jond, I agree, she is such a fine boat, I don't known if I would put her in the water.
 
Bob

I had a go at the main boom crutch. On Altair this is a "A" frame - a rather crude affair which has the appearance of being made out of galvanised scaffolding poles. It is quite out of keeping with the other brass deck fittings. I couldn't bring myself to make a crutch that matched the original so I made something a little more in keeping. If I get a flood of derision from the purists among us I'll consider painting it grey.
 
The top bracket has a circular cut out in which the boom rests. I machined this out of bar on the mill. The web was formed by end milling using a rotary table.
 

The bracket was separated from the bar and then the legs were soldered on.

Cleaning up and polishing followed.
 

As a bit of a distraction I made and mounted the stern light.
 

I then made and attached the feet. The crutch lays flat on the deck and pivots up to the vertical when in use. 

But of course not in the position shown in the photo.

Not sure I want to paint this!
 
 

Nice clean installation, Mike.
 
Bob

Thanks to all of the above for your comments.  It's good to know that "I'm not the only one" though, looking at your logs and galleries,it's hard to believe that I'm in such impressive company.
But, "Moving on" (as my youngest says when the conversation bores or embarrasses him) I have started again with the bridge structure.  It's demanding work to cut all those rectangular windows and difficult to achieve uniformity. I've wasted a lot of time scrapping my efforts and starting again.  My third attempt is the best so far and is accepted.  But that's just the Master's and Mate's windows on deck 2.  I'm now working on the wheelhouse windows and doors and the radio shack.
I have also started preparing the wood sheathing on these decks.  I used very thin and flat slices from the damaged planking on "Vasa" the unfinished model my friend's widow gave me. I'm using some remnants of tar adhesive paint that I had left over after re-roofing the wood shed some years ago, to represent the pitch seal between planks.  Painting it along one edge of the deck plank and sliding the adjacent one up against it forces the excess out, to be scraped away. Some spreading occurs but when the deck is ready it will be sanded down as far as I dare go. I have experimented and found this works well.  Even a little grey shadow where tar paint has been is not a bad thing as, on a ship as old as Fulani was when I sailed in her, the 28 year old wood sheathed decks were far from pristine, having been re-sealed over the years by various ship's carpenters, skilled and unskilled.  It looks authentic, I think.
I am also busy around the focstle, fitting the aft facing bulkhead with entrances port and starboard  These entrances had no high coaming to keep water out as the interior access doors to the Carpenter's shop and the focstle store and lampy's den had.
On the outer surface of the focstle I am trying (and trying and trying again) to print  F U L A N I  to scale. I am doing it with a toothpick dipped in paint, the toothpick being a used one in accordance with my stipulation that the ship should be made of scrap materials.  Am still trying, as my wife tells me.  Repeatedly. 
Photos of the above work to follow shortly. (Same old problems with photos, I'm afraid)

I agree Martin,
thanks for your words,
that was also a strong criterium for choosing this build. I also love the nostalgic charme of these ships....
 
Nils

Nice clean installation, Mike.
 
Bob

Lawrence,  thanks for stopping by.  I wish I were farther along but due to chronic family health problems, I only get to work on the boats, 1 - 2 hours a day, if that.  The rest of the time I'm the care giver, cook, House cleaner and . . .  Enough of that.  The Mariefred is a riveted steel boat.  And I like Nils I hope to plate her, something I've never tried before.  The other problem is figuring out what to use for some of the parts.  The upper deck supports and seating frames are 35 X 35 mm angle iron or 1.38" at scale that is .0138.  I have seen other models where they have used larger material for these parts and they end up looking bulky and out of scale.  Ah well that's the kind of problem all model builders go through.  I know, I'll set up a foundry and extrude my own material.  (Pardon the humor).
 
Bob

Nice clean installation, Mike.
 
Bob

Lawrence,  thanks for stopping by.  I wish I were farther along but due to chronic family health problems, I only get to work on the boats, 1 - 2 hours a day, if that.  The rest of the time I'm the care giver, cook, House cleaner and . . .  Enough of that.  The Mariefred is a riveted steel boat.  And I like Nils I hope to plate her, something I've never tried before.  The other problem is figuring out what to use for some of the parts.  The upper deck supports and seating frames are 35 X 35 mm angle iron or 1.38" at scale that is .0138.  I have seen other models where they have used larger material for these parts and they end up looking bulky and out of scale.  Ah well that's the kind of problem all model builders go through.  I know, I'll set up a foundry and extrude my own material.  (Pardon the humor).
 
Bob