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wefalck

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  1. wefalck
    The funnel is connected to the boiler-house via a kind of apron that also accomodates the funnel rake of 2.5°. The apron was turned from a piece of acrylic rod and then taken into a 'wheel-collet' on the vertical dividing attachment of the micro-mill. With the vertical axis inclined by 2.5° this allowed to drill out the apron at this angle. In the same set-up the holes for the two safety-valve exhaust pipes and the steam-whistle were drilled. Boring out the apron for the funnel The funnel is actually only a sleeve and inside there is one smoke-pipe for each of the four boilers and a stiffening pipe in the middle. These pipes of 1.8 mm and 2.3 mm OD respectivel were turned from thin Plexiglas™-rod and then partly drilled out to the approximately scale wall thickness. Taking the funnel into the upright dividing attachment on the micro-mill, holes were drilled in the appropriate pattern. The upper ends of the pipes will receive stays from thin polystyrene sheet. Funnel with smoke-pipes To be continued soon ...
  2. wefalck
    The freeing-ports normally could be locked in a closed position.
  3. wefalck
    I think that it is how it was done. I think they used some sort of anvil on a long arm. I faintly remember having seen an illustration somewhere.
  4. wefalck
    Conversely, I have never seen a photograph or drawing with these guard-bars on the outside of the hull (just checked a 1910 text-book on iron-shipbuilding and it shows the bars on the inside). There they would be rather prone to entangle the lower sheets or being sheared-off in harbour (unless the hull had sufficient tumble-home). Restricting the swinging out of the freeing-ports would also defeat their objective, that is to clear out as much water as quickly as possible. I don't understand the point about the 'stays'. There would be no stays near the bulwark, or did you mean the bulwark stanchions ? Or did you mean the shrouds ? In any case the distribution and size of the freeing-ports would be chosen so as to not interfere with any of these elements.
  5. wefalck
    The use of this additional layer of wood may have been at earlier times. The 19th century hull I have seen don't seem to have intermediate layer. However, there was a layer of tarred and sulftur-impregnated felt under the copper. Before good antifouling paints were invented, iron ships were clad in a layer of wood before the customary tarred felt and copper sheathing was applied. This was needed in order to prevent the electrolytic corrosion of the iron hull by the more 'noble' copper. Heavy metal ions, including copper ions, can inhibt (partially) the polymerisation of cyanoacrylate cements. They can also interfere with the structure of other cements. The fact that the area, where the copper was attached was brown, seems to indicate that the oxide layer became detached from the metal, leading to a failure of the bond. This is indeed one of the mechanisms by which copper antifouling sheathing works: the oxides slowly becoming detached and with them anything that intends to attach to it.
  6. wefalck
    Jaager, if you didn't rub bright the back-side of your heat-treated copper it is no wonder that the plates are falling off ! The cement bonded to the copper oxide that slowly comes off the solid copper. I have stuck birght copper plates with contact cement to a model and they are still there after 30 years. There have been various discussions about the colour of copper sheathing on this and other fora. The work-day look would be a dull reddish brown, perhaps with a bit of green in the zone between the wate and the air. It does not look metallic at all. Painted, very thin paper plates may be route to go for small-scale models.
  7. wefalck
    Well, bought mine at a time, when the FET was not dreamt of and I had not knowledge off or access to the US american market - that is, if the Byrnes products actually existed at the beginning of the 1990s. At that time I wouldn't have been able to afford the FET and it is considerably bigger than the KS115 This fence-alignment problem is partly a design issue and partly due to manufacturing tolerances. Early on I made a fence-extension from extruded aluminium channel that can be clamped to the other end of the table. I also screwed down onto the saw table a thin sheet of aluminium to reduce the gab between the blade and the table. I don't do that much of sawing, so I can live with it (more or less).
  8. wefalck
    Due to the structure of ropes - three or four more or less round strands winding around each other, it is difficult to measure a diameter. On a three-strand rope a caliper would touch on one side a strand and on the other side the space between two strands. This is why traditionally the size of ropes is given by the circumference, which can be measured by laying a thinner rope around it. In addition, direct measurement instruments, such as the vernier caliper, though known in principle for quite a while, did not come into common use until well into the 19th century. This is, indeed, rather inconvenient from a modellers point of view, as the circumference of our 'ropes' would be very difficult to measure. However, as pocket calculators are common and virtually every mobile phone has a calculator, it should not be a big deal today to convert circumferences into diameter or vice versa. In many case a division/multiplication by 3 should be good enough.
  9. wefalck
    The arm-rests are a good idea to steady them and make the work less tiering. Most modern ironing-boards are too flimsy and poorly made from aluminium. My mother had solid one, made from 1" steel tubes, which was heavy and stable. Haven't seen such for years. The ones with expanded metal tops are for steam irons.
  10. wefalck
    Well, what else one can do, but to join-in into the chorus of praise
  11. wefalck
    Personally, I think that such discussions are useful and interesting, as they convey information beyond the immediate topic. It is the essence of fora to have such discussions in the open and not behind the scenes via PMs. Good to know that the Lloyds volumes are being digitised, as many libraries do not have all the volumes. What about Bureau Veritas ?
  12. wefalck
    Good advice to contact the NMM. However, I would bet that she had iron knees. There would have been plenty of iron in Norway and Sweden (e.g. from Kiruna). Iron knees would make more room in the hold and being stronger.
  13. wefalck
    Somehow, the diagram appears to be correct in principle. However, there should be enough line to lower the boat into the water. I have also seen a lead-block fixed somewhere at the bottom of the round so that the fall would clear the boat, when swung out. The stay on top of the davits should be just that long to keep the blocks above the attachment points in the boat. There was either a ring-bolt cast onto the bulbous end of the davit, or there was a piece of sheet-iron fiddled onto the swivveling pivot for the blocks, with a hole punched for the stay. These are the arrangements I have seen in real life, it could have been different, of course, on the ALBERTIC.
  14. wefalck
    I would suggest that you get yourself a textbook on machining, for instance the one that was written by Joe Martin the deceased former owner of Sherline. This gives you ideas on workholding and machining techniques. There are countless ways of holding workpieces on a rotary table. It depends on the size and shape of a piece and on what machining operations you want to perform. Drill-chucks are for, well, drills and reamers. Do not use drill-chucks for work-holding, they are not designed for lateral forces. Most of them are also not precise enough. Whether you use a 3-jaw or a 4-jaw chuck, or a collet (chuck) for workholding depends on the size of the workpiece and on the desired precision. Collets are the best way to hold small round parts. 4-jaw chucks come in a self-centering and in a version with indipendent jaws. The former is mainly good for square stock and parts, while the latter can be used on all round, square or rectangular materials and parts, but is more time-consuming to center.
  15. wefalck
    These windmill-pumps have been recently the subject of a short article (in German, sorry) by the well-known maritime historian Herbert Karting: Karting, H. (2017): Die Windmühlenpumpe und die „Onker-Barken“.- Das Logbuch, 53(3): 124-127. According to this article the origin of these pumps is obscure, but seems to be related to the ice-trade from Canada and northern USA to the southernly states and Caribbean etc., where large quantities of melt-water had to be constantly removed from the bilges. When ice-machines and refrigeration were invented they fell out of use. However, when at the end of the 19th century and up to the end of the first quarter of the 20th century Finnish owner began to buy up old square-riggers to ship timber all over Europe, these pumps began to be used again to keep the leaking old ships dry in cheap way - margins were low in the timber-trade. It seems that these barques could be recognised from far by the klonk-klonk of their pumps. It is indeed unlikely that LEON would have been fitted with such a pump.
  16. wefalck
    I think it has to be Chinese dolls - at least today most passengers in the gondole seem to be groups of Chinese, at least this was the impression we had last weekend.
  17. wefalck
    Doing these investigations and finding out how things work(ed) is one of the most satisfying aspects in shipmodel building ... the second half of the 19th is particularly interesting in this respect with all the techonological revolutions and those 'patent' thingies.
  18. wefalck
    Actually, if you have real acrylic glass, not clear styrene rod or something similar, it turns and mills very well with sharp tools. Feed rates need to be kept reasonably low, or the material will melt to the cutting tool. I like to work with it, though the swarf can be a bit messy because of the electrostatic charges
  19. wefalck
    Thanks for the wishes ! ******************* Some small progress between travels. I began to tackle the funnel. The main part was turned from a piece of 10 mm acrylic rod. The bands were turned on. The top then was hollowed out cautiously with the part unsupported – a steady would have marred the relatively soft acrylic. The remaining wall thickness is about 0.3 mm. Outside turning of the funnel The top was hollowed out only down to 12 mm, as the yet to be installed smoke-stacks will fill most of the space and one will not be able to see down to the bottom. Hollowing out the funnel Funnel on the boiler-room casing To be continued soon ...
  20. wefalck
    Pat, it just came to my mind that there are also brass-pigmented high-quality felt-tip pens of different sizes on the market. Perhaps by disciplined application of 'dots' you can build up the various brass plates etc. on the wheel's rim. Might be easier then using a brush.
  21. wefalck
    Why do you prime ? For a single coloured line (boot-top ?) this is not normally needed, I would think. I suppose you would have applied some sanding sealer and varnish to the natural wood already ? Instead of masking and painting, you may also think of a decal, to be sealed with varnish or not, depending on the kind of model.
  22. wefalck
    Not sure I understand the problem correctly, but normally one would paint the lighter colour first, overlapping well the separation line to the darker colour - no masking at this stage. Then you mask off the area already painted and proceed with painting the darker colour. So there are no edges of under-paint exposed.
  23. wefalck
    Belaying points of flagg-lines may also vary, as in calm conditions one may want to give the line an inclination so that the flagg (somewhat) unfolds and thus becomes easier to recognise.
  24. wefalck
    However, sometimes the spelling can be important: in German, Danish and Swedish the term 'Jacht' denotes a small single-masted cargo-ship, similar to the British 'smack', while 'Yacht' denotes a pleasure boat. Some land-lubbers may actually confuse the terms, as the 'Jacht' as commercial ship has disappeared.
  25. wefalck
    A would go with Gaetan: I rarely, if ever, use any lubricant on my lathes - there are not set up for using coolants anyway. Yes, pieces and tools become warm sometimes, but if they get so hot that the workpiece or tool gets damaged, you are doing something wrong, i.e. perhaps the tool is blunt. In the model workshop one rarely takes off so much metal that heat generation is a problem. There are some materials, copper may be one of them, that tend to stick on the top-edge of the cutting tool. In this case a bit of lubricant might help. Or a steeper top-rake of the tool. When milling with a multi-tooth cutter, the situation is different. There you need a lubricant, at least for steel, and particularly when milling or sawing slots, as the mill or saw might get jammed otherwise in the slot. A blast with WD40 or similar also clears out chips. The same applies to drilling: oil for steel and sometimes aluminium, when holes are deep; nothing for brass; copper may need a drop of oil. I only have sewing-machine oil and WD40 (or similar) in my workshop. I don't mess around with the animal fats that old-time machinist used.

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