wefalck
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Everything posted by wefalck
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I am not an expert on 17th century and earlier ships, but belaying running rigging on bare bars etc. was common practice, I believe. We have to be very cautious to apply in retrospect ideas of good seamanship that were developed in the 19th and 20th century. Having said that, my preferred knot under such circumstance would be the clove hitch, if the free end is not too long. It also possible to make the clove hitch with a bight of rope taken double in order to avoid fiddling a long end all the way through. In any case, the rope should go at least twice around the bar etc. so that the friction can take up a lot of the strain and does not pull any knot too tight for loosening. In this case one can also loosen any knot while the friction keeps the rope safely under tension.
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My paper- or silkspan-sailmaking technique is presented here: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/68-zuiderzee-botter-by-wefalck-finished-artitec-resin/&tab=comments#comment-47886 Note: When using silkspan for larger scales, say 1:60 and above, I first stabilised the silkspan with light coat of acrylic varnish. This allows me to cut the individual panels. With paper this first step is not needed.
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Yep, they seem to be nice guys. As I have been just elected chairman of the German association (https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/profil2/), I am in the process of establishing links with THE ROPE. -
Met some Japanese modellers of the association THE ROPE (www.theropetokyo.org) a couple of weeks ago in Rochefort (France). They also brought some Japanese boats (models) with them. These guys may be a good contact, say for pictures of museum models etc. Such incidents, as you described above, make me always weary of taking models out of the house ...
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Good idea, but you need a space at least 1 m deep, considering the common lenght of stock. In the next incarnation of my workshop I may place something like this behind cupboards next to the door, to be accessed from the narrow side. Or, store the stuff in a wide, but narrow cupboard with such drawers ...
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If you don't have the space for horizontal storage, you can also tie the thin strips together with a piece of string or a rubber band - together they will not bend. I made myself a narrow open rack with shallow shelves and some vertical battens along the length to keep the stuff in. That allows me to store the stuff according to material, while being able to retrieve shorter pieces that have been pushed in by accident. Another option would be to make the tubes, as in Mark's picture, detachable so that you can shake them in order to get small pieces out. For some years I kept narrow (ca. 5 cm diameter) paper tubes loose in a box upright - the narrow tubes prevented the bending and I could take them out to rattle them for retrieving short pieces. Apart from lack of floor-space it was difficult to handle those tubes, in which I kept my steel and brass stock, hence the other solution.
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Cargo tie downs
wefalck replied to Osmosis's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I don't know what ship the SAN FRANCISCO was, neither what era. Assuming that it is a 19th cargo sailing ship, I think normally cargo in the hold would not be tied down, but rather 'wedged in'. This means that smaller items of cargo and lumber would be put in such way between the larger items that nothing can move. Apart from preventing items from moving this also maximises the cargo volume use. In the old days ships sometimes had to wait for considerable time to complete their loads. This not only for economical reasons, but to increase safety - a half-loaded ship with the risk of a shifting load can be in great danger in bad weather. It was the art of the loading masters in the harbours and of the first mate to stow the cargo in a safe way. -
OK, if I understand you correctly, what you are looking for is an arbor to fit the PROXXON 3-jaw-chuck to another lathe ? The problem is that the 16 mm x 1 mm is not a standard metric fine thread and most small lathes would have either a 12 x 1 or a 14 x1 thread on the spindle nose. To what kind of lathe do you want to fit this PROXXON 3-jaw-chuck ? There are various 3- and 4-jaw-chucks of the same body diameter (45 mm I believe) with either 12x1 or 14x1 thread on the market of Indian or Chinese make. You can find them on ebay etc. from about 20€ (aluminium body and jaws) or 50€ (steel body and jaws) upward. They also sell straight 10 mm arbors for them with the respective male spindle thread.
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I would not think so, you can check on the PROXXON Web-site: (https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27020.php. The spindle has a 16 mm x1 mm thread, while the chuck probably has same thread as their hand-held equipment - not sure, but it may be 3/8"-24
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I think there is a misconception here. The three-jaw-chuck screws onto the spindle of the lathe, while the the drill-chuck goes into the tailstock, replacing the fixed centre. The drill-chuck has nothing to do on the spindle. It would be even dangerous to use a drill chuck in the spindle, as drill-chucks are not designed for side-pressure.
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For this approach you have to be sure that the bulkheads are running correctly into the keel-plank for the envisaged plank thickness. In the original question, this was exactly the problem. The outside, i.e. lower, rabbet-line is defined by the plan, while the inside line depends on the angle with which the frame/bulkhead runs into the keel. I agree, that this line is best worked out on the model itself.
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Syren Rope Rocket
wefalck replied to DelF's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Commercial sources for ropewalk machines
You are probably right about the internal friction that determines inter alia, if and how a rope will stretch. I don't have really experience with natural fibres, as the really small-scale ropes I made are all made from fly-tying yarns, but think that twisting the strands to nearly the break-point will result in a tighter rope with a shallower angle of the twist, more internal friction and, hence, less tendency to stretch. Ropes from natural fibres will always change their length a bit as a fuction of ambient humity, as the fibres may swell, resulting actually in a slight shortening of the rope. I gather this is one of the reasons why people wax the ropes, to prevent humidity uptake to some extent.- 42 replies
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Ropewalk
wefalck replied to Worldway's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
Pat, don't frighten the poor guy off You are absolutely right, Pat, that there are so many different factors that come to bear - the best strategy is to give it a try and keep practicing, perhaps at the beginning with some cheap yarns to get a feeling for what is happening. Getting good material will be the main bottle-neck, but when you read the various contributions on the this forum, you will probably find suggestions for sources that are accessible in your respective country. Another important point is to not be afraid and tighten up the strands to near the breaking point, only then you will get a good tight rope. Unravelling or not when cut depends also on the material used, natural fibres have a higher internal friction and tend to stay together, while man-made fibres gives smoother ropes, but because of their smoothness also have a tendency to spring opoen. -
I would give the cardboard tubes a good coat of sanding filler to present the edges from fraying. Also looks neater.
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Ad 1: I think it would be lot easier to cut the rabbet before any bulkheads fitted. The reason is that the angle typically is shallower as you can get with with tools, as the bulkheads would allow (depends on the technique though). Conversely, you will need to fit the stem and stern posts, as the rabbet usually continues along the posts and the keel, so should have the same depth all around. Ad 2: If the bulkhead finishes before the bearding line, you may have to cut away from the wood of the keel in order to continue with a smooth profile up to the depth of the rabbet. Conversely, if the bulkhead reach below the bearding line, then something is wrong with the bulkheads. It could be that they are notched too deeply or the profile in the lower part is wrong. If you have a plan, check against it.
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Ropewalk
wefalck replied to Worldway's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
Which machine ? Normally it is very simple, you attach the thread from which to make the rope on one hook and then lead it from one side of the machine to the other either three or four times, depending on whether you want to make three- or four-strand rope. There are also two building instructions for two types of ropewalks here on the Forum: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-rigging-and-sails.php. They presumably also have some operating instructions with them. -
Ropewalk
wefalck replied to Worldway's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
Ad 1: normally, ropewalks make ropes of a certain maximum length, depending on the length of the rails used; there are more complicated machines, that can make ropes of (quasi) unlimited length. Ad 2: what do you mean by "mark ropes" ? -
15' Dinghy by Bedford - FINISHED - 1:1 scale
wefalck replied to Bedford's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
One should live in the right place ... for building as well for sailing a beauty like her ... -
I think the main point is that the yard is safely suspended from the toppng-lifts. If you were to achieve the same thing mechanically when the yard is in the raised position, the top-mast would have to be a lot higher in order to keep the angle between the topping-lifts and the mast reasonable. In this case the topping-lifts would need to be 'running', as one has to slacken them while the sails are set. All this would add weight to the top without adding any real advantage. I never looked into this issue, but I would think the height of the centre of gravity would also be an issue in 17th century ships - think WASA. Also, anything that can be lowered reduces the strain on the rig, when the ship is rolling and pitching, as the length of the fulcrum is reduced.
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World's oldest intact shipwreck discovered in Black Sea
wefalck replied to RichardG's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Yes, these are Bronze Age. Probably skin-boats, but science is not of unified opinion, as no remains have been found yet, as far as I know, There are also Viking-Age petroglyphs of ships, on rune-stones. -
... and the yards were safely and squarely suspended from the topping-lifts in the lowered position, which eased the work of the men aloft. In general, these topping-lifts were standing to simplify the rig. See the recent discussion on EdT's YOUNG AMERICA. Also, it would be difficult and dangerous to step out onto the yard of a top-sail in a hoisted position. The ratlines get very narrow up there.
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World's oldest intact shipwreck discovered in Black Sea
wefalck replied to RichardG's topic in Nautical/Naval History
1100 BC ? I gather this was a typo and you meant AD ? The Viking period is generally set around the late 8th century to the end of the 11th century, I believe. These anoxic conditions in the Black Sea led to the preservation of organic materials, just like for the Viking ships in the bogs. It would be difficult, however, to excavate these ships, as they are all below 200 m depth, were you can only access them using submersibles or diving robots - at least with current technology. -
I've tried yarn as well, but it doesn't look as smooth as wire. A possibility would be black monofilament, but it is not so easy to knot in knots that don't open again and into equal knots.
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I have also been battling with the subject of very small chains (actually chain rails in 1:160 scale) and found a (for the moment at least) reasonably satisfactory solution by twisting together two strands of wire of the scale thickness of the wire from which the chain would have been made - as you did, but then twisting two strands of these twisted wires together in the opposite direction. Looks reasonably close to a twisted chain ... no pictures yet, as I did only some experiments.
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Don't seem to remember having seen any brackets for patent windlass handles, but in any case they would require to be lashed down so as not to become dislodged in a heavy sea - they are far more difficult to replace than the old wooden ones.
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