wefalck
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Everything posted by wefalck
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Paper is a very versatile building material - when you get away from the classical cut-out paper modelling. Your model is quite a tour de force, showing what can be done ! We had seen this already in your article in our journal LOGBUCH 👍- 65 replies
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- fish hooker
- fishing
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Didn't see the building-log until now - excellent progress and excellent work ! DE SPERWER is preserved in the Zuiderzeemuseum in Enkhuizen/NL. Here you can check out various detail pictures that I took of her, when I lived in the area for a some years: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/zuiderzee/zuiderzee.html She has an interesting history. She was built as yacht from the beginning, while boeiers were sort of representative boats for well-to-do people in a country when there were not many roads and no motor-cars. Kind of Dutch Mercedes of the 19th century. They were also used as kind of long-distance taxis or inspection boats. DE SPERWER was owned by a certain Merlin Minshall, an adventurer, who worked for British intelligence during WWII, where he met Ian Fleming, who partially modelled 'James Bond' after him. There is a monograph on the boeiers, albeit in the Dutch language: VERMEER, J. (2004): De Boeier.- 528 p., Alkmaar (De Alk & Heijnen Watersport). BTW, what part of the World are you from ? I seem to see some kind of Dutch/Belgian/Northern French houses through the window in one of your pictures ...
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Yes, that PROXXON is a nice little machine. If it was mine, however, I would replace the revolving plastic handles on the cranks with fixed ones made from some polished metal - gives you much more positive feel of what you are doing, when you are cranking. I even would see to replace them with ball-handle cranks.
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The 1864 Composite Ship 'City of Adelaide'
wefalck replied to Jim Lad's topic in Nautical/Naval History
This is another case, where modelling habits and conventions are difficult to eradicate, possible perpetrated by kit-manufacturers as well. The worst thing are raised nail-heads, like rivets. If anything, there should be slight depressions caused by the nails pulling the sheathing into the underlying layer of felt. There are many pictures of real ships with (restored) metal sheathing on the Web now. It is, however, good to see what the contemporary sheathing would have looked like - apart from the colour, which is due to oxidation in the atmosphere. -
I think my great-grandfather and my grand-aunt would have commended you on the leatherwork - they ran a glove-factory (until they had to give in to the Asian competition). Very neat.
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Tools, tools and more tools....
wefalck replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Seems that the Chines make quite reasonable ones at a reasonable price - some of my colleagues have been quite impressed. This offer is from NL, but it originates in China. It bit of searching on ebay should turn up an offer closer to home: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Dental-Labor-Marathon-Micromotor-35K-rpm-Zahntechnik-Straight-Contra-Handstück/121242068474 -
I think the question was what to do with the lines that attach to the sails, if the sails are unbent. Those lines that attach to the lower corners of square sails are often hooked together, forming a sort of triangle in mid-air. Clew-lines have a figure-of-eight knot made into their end and let run up to the block, ready to be re-attached to the cringles in the foot of the sail, when it is bent.
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Can't comment on Baltimore-Clippers, but in general nibs and hooks are cut in a way so as not to get sharp angles. More or less 90° angles are preferred, because they are safer to caulk.
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That's the trouble of working at such a large scale: you can/have to represent all the details, but things are only an eighth of size ... 😏 Good job on the 'leathering' !
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Tools, tools and more tools....
wefalck replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
A foot control is a good idea for any power-tool in the workshop. I run all my machines off foot-switches, of the momentary kind, i.e. when you lift the foot, the current is interrupted immediately. Keeps your hands free for the work and if something goes wrong, you just lift your foot from the pedal. As I have it in front of the transformer for hand-held tools, it also saves energy, as the transformer is not running all the time. -
Tools, tools and more tools....
wefalck replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Yes, got a couple of those Barraquer needle holders somehow secondhand for a fraction of the price in the ebay-offers. Mine, unfortunately are not lockable, but one can improvise a lock by sliding an oval ring over them. One has to keep an eye open for those chirurgical and particularly ophtalimic surgery instruments. Have also micro-scissors of different sizes from that realm and they come to good use in rigging. -
I love this metal-work, looks like the real cast thing ! One thing that occurred to me: the open end of the shackles looks a bit wide, which results in the shackled being pulled in an oblique direction to the bolt; in real life this could result in the bolt being bent, so that one cannot unshackle it anymore ...
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
wefalck replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
For put squares (or hexagons) onto the end of round material, there is the classical solution watchmakers use (for the watch winding stems), the 'double roller filing rest'. Here is a picture from the Internet (as I didn't have a picture of mine to hand): Source: http://www.myford-lathes.com/ The above is shop-made, but in the old days watchmakers lathes came with them. You also need a way to index the headstock of the lathe (an indexing plate was integrated into the pulley of watchmakers lathes). A more artisanl way is to find a pin-vise with a square nut, hold the nut down onto the work-table and try to hold the file as horizontal as you can while filing. It is a good idea to use a file with a 'safe-edge' for this, i.e. a file that does not have teeth on the narrow side. I have done dozens of square and hexagonal (with a hexagonal nutted pin-vice) like this, before I had a lathe.- 993 replies
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- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
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I am making 'ropes' on my ropewalk from fly-tying thread. The the finest (16/0) gives a rope of about 0.04 mm diameter. This thread is available in many different colours, e.g. silvery grey for steel-wire, black, and beige. Check out the building-log for my Zuiderzee-Botter, where I used these ropes. They can be stiffened with clear varnish - better than using glue, because the varnish can be softened with the appropriate solvent (not acrylic varnish !). The rope coils etc. on the botter-model are shaped with varnish. Such rope would be an alternative to the twisted wire in the method described above.
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Though a tempting idea, you will find sooner or later that combination machines are a pain, at least for those who regularly use the machines. Often one has to perform turning and milling operations on the same part, which means that you have to break down one set up for the sake of another. With time you will get fed up by this, because you not only have to reconfigure the machine, but also to adjust it etc. Such machines are good for emergency repairs or such, say on a ship, where you wouldn't need a full-blown workshop.
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It is dead easy and quite cheap to find copper wire down to 0.05 mm and molybdenum wire down to 0.03 mm diameter on ebay - bought recently a whole batch from various Chines sources. They often deliver within a few days, at least here in Europe. wires.co.uk also sells pre-tinned copper wire that might come handy here. Not as cheap as simple copper wire.
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To elaborate a bit: - take copper or molybdenum (easy to find on ebay and stiffer than copper) wires of appropriate diameter and twist to lengths together, this is your (wire) rope; drill two holes of the distance of the blocks into a waste piece of wood and insert two pins of the diameter of your blocks; wind the wire rope you made around them to simulate the tackle - one end will begin at the lower block and the other end will run across the rollers on the davit; take the wire off the jig and stick paper roundels at the appropriate place to simulate the blocks; for double blocks you would actually need three roundels each; the top block will also need a short piece of wire or a loop attached to the davit; you can now attach the whole assembly to the davit.
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Do you have a copy of Lloyd McCaffery's book 'Shipbuilding in Miniature' ? He describes, together with a picture, how he constructs such tackles from twisted wire. The rope made from wire is shaped around a rig and paper discs representing blocks are glued to the sides. The whole thing than forms a more or less rigid assembly that is installed at the desired place.
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Interesting design and mechanically quite complex for something installed on the deck of a ship. The design seems to be somehow inspired by the steam-pump design for fire-engines, which had to be very compact. The cross-head there slides in frame perpendicular to the piston rod. I wondering whether the elaborate cams drive two-stage pumps: suction pumps become very ineffective say above 7 m or so; by dividing the height over which the water is to be lifted into two stages, you can achieve greater lifting heights. The cams would help timing the movements of the pistons. Just some wild ideas ...
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- falls of clyde
- tanker
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Some sort of wooden bolsters left and right atop the holes might do the job. Isn't there any respective information on the prototype ?
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That would make it even worse, the two stream systems would mix in a chaotic way ...
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