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wefalck
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Everything posted by wefalck
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Another way to make shackles
wefalck replied to vaddoc's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
These ceramic soldering plates are quite useful. I made bin with excentric parts to wedge pieces for soldering. The pins are made from aluminium wire/rod, so that do not stick to the parts. Mind you, the plates are very brittle. They can be obtained cheaply from the notorious bay. Many years ago I made very small shackles (>1.5 mm long) by flattening brass wire at the necessary distance with a flat punch (now I would have a press with stop for such things), marked/centred the holes to be drilled and drilled with the appropriate diameter. As the two flats were made before bending, the sizes come out quite uniform. The two rings then were shaped with the grinding bits in the hand-held drill. For pins I used suitable copper nails that were shortened and once put in place the free end was slightly squashed to simulate the securing pin and prevent the pin from slipping out. -
My PROXXON fret-saw does have a down-holder/saw-guide that one sets just above the material that is being sawn: The sawing-/filing-machines of old had a kind of articulated arm, that could be arranged so that the tip was near the saw-blade. That's ok for working on small pieces, but gets in your way, when working on large pieces of wood: This kind of thing could be retro-fitted to many fret-saws. In the above example, the holders just clamp to the table.
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Connecting Staysails to the stays
wefalck replied to vmwilson1's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I imitated grommets (at BOUNTY's time they wouldn't have been metal one, but 'sewn' ones) with blobs of coloured PVA glue on both side of the sail. After drying, this was pierced through with a needle to form the eyelet. The rings (if that is correct for BOUNTY and her time) were not actually fiddled through the rings (or sort of U-shaped gliders), but the sail was sewn through the grommets to the rings/gliders. Not difficult to do with fly-tying yarn of the appropriate size and colour. Here is an example from about 200 years later and in 1:90 scale: If you insist on metal grommets, there are hollow copper rivets from the realm of electronics that may be suitable. They would have to be turned down on the outside diameter to have the right proportions and shortened too. -
HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
wefalck replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Nice piece of engineering ! I think, if you Fashion some hexagonal ‚bolts‘ from little brass nails, that should fix the winch sufficiently down on the deck. i am surprised to see brass-winches already at that time. I thought they were only introduced in the 1880s.- 993 replies
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- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
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Don't forget the holes in the lower part for attaching the sail ... beautifully done - as always 👍 I mean this: From my Botter in 1:90 scale ... quite a bit smaller.
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Canute/mtaylor, thanks for posting/pinning. It seems though that one needs to sign up to the Web-site in the first post ... Personally, I prefer to use those bottle of paints pre-thinned for use in the air-brush. Much less hassle, albeit there is a somewhat narrower range of colours. However, as I am building only 19th century models, this has not really bothered me - no one knows exactly what colours on a particular ship looked like and normally colours would have been mixed on site/on board anyway I use these pre-thinned paints also for washes applied with the brush.
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This vividly shows the complexity of the rigging - must have been a challenge even for the crew, particularly in dark nights and when repairs were needed under harsh weather conditions ...
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- young america
- clipper
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Nice idea to shape the blades as a stack and then cutting them off with a slitting saw ! I contacted the German colleague by email re. the plans he used, but have not received a response yet ...
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Straightening thin brass wire
wefalck replied to vossy's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Stretching certainly does work well, but for short pieces the rolling method is easier and you don't loose the two ends that would be squashed by the pliers/vice. -
Straightening thin brass wire
wefalck replied to vossy's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I roll short lengths of (soft) wire between to pieces of really flat hard wood, e.g. a piece of beech and my beech work-top. I recently also discovered molybdenum wire that comes in various diametres and is much more 'springy' than brass. It has become readily available from Chinese sources due to the fact that it is used to separate the glass from the LCD-screen in mobile-phone repair. Beware, it is very tough and can only be cut with very hard tools. -
Talking about wire for rigging, there is now also molybdenum wire easy to come by, down to 0.035 mm diameter - it is used by mobile-phone repair guys, who separate the glass from the LCD-screen with it. It can be fished cheaply in spools from China in the wellknown bay. It is virtually impossible to cut it by accident with scissor or a scalpel, it is just too tough - beware of dents in the tools.
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- john cudahy
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There has been a 1:100 scale (sorry metric ...) model of the GERMANIA by a German modeller: https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/mitglieder/modelle/germania3/ It may be worthwhile asking on what drawings his model was built. Keith, if you want, I can contact him and ask. He lives in Spain and specialises in models of such yachts.
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I think something has been lost in translation here ... at least I don't understand what is meant. Calico is a kind of cotton - did you mean you polished it with a cotton rag ?
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Thanks a lot for those details ! And what voltage did you use ? And it goes without saying, of course, the parts are brilliant !
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Can you say something about the conditions for the galvano-plastic: e.g. voltage used, concentration of the copper sulfate (?) solution, what kind of anode you used etc. ?
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I don't know the US American market for DIY products at all. Over here in Europe we have plain Plaster of Paris (gypsum) and Plaster of Paris mixed with cellulose to delay somewhat the setting and make it easier to level over cracks in the wall and so on. I gather it is used in dry-wall construction to level the surface of plaster-board etc. It comes in cardboard boxes of 250 g, I think. Bought mine years ago. There are also now acrylic-based repair 'plasters' in tubes. It works nicely, but sets after a few years in the tube. The shelf-life is not as long as that for real plaster, which is practically unlimited. Here I used the acrylics-based plaster to create bricks:
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- sidewheeler
- arabia
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I made brick paving like this by smearing a layer of plaster into a wooden frame and then carving and painting the bricks. Much easier, as the wood-grain doesn't bother you.
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- sidewheeler
- arabia
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I gather worming, parcelling and serving would be a bit over the top, even at 1:48 scale. Intuitively, I would serve with the lay, as against the lay has the tendency to open the rope. Not sure what the full-size practice is, but once wormed and parcelled, it would not matter to much anymore.
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What silk, that's the question. One has to be able to get the right one, spun in the right way and is has to be less than 10 den. And then - see the earlier discussion on silk - I am still a bit hesitant about silk, though that silk will be painted as per prototype. Talking about silk and deviating a bit from Johann's thread, I also experimented with silk covered copper wire, as used in the old-time electrics. It looks good, but making splices look prototype-like is difficult, because the rope would have been spliced first and then served all over, while the wire is already served.
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I am curious to see what would be the thinnest rope you can serve - for my purposes I would need to go below 0.5 mm diameter to be in scale. Then also finding a serving yarn will become a problem.
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Indeed, these deck prisms, though in common use since at least the middle of the 19th ccentury, are rarely seen on any models. One reason is probably that they are not marked on many plans of the time.
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That sound encouraging, as I have some really challenging parts in the pipe-line. What thickness of brass have you been using ? I have quite a bit of experience in experimenting with home etching and found that getting a sufficiently uniform blackening is the challenge. However, I have been working with brass sheets covered in photoresist and transparent masks. I can imagine that the heat-transfer of the toner lets the lines from the printer melt together better. Not sure what the European equivalent to your paper would be (doesn't the printing ink interfer ?), but could imagine that other papers that have a coating that prevents the toner from penetrating too deeply should work. I should experiment with double-sided toner transfer: if one includes register marks and carefully makes a sandwich with spacers, it should be possible to transfer the toner onto both sides of a brass-sheet for double-sided and surface etching. Would be worth a try - I almost gave up the home etching due to the blackening problem.
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Ferric chloride solution is not such a concentrated acid, so there is no risk of it attracting the first water drops, as would happen with concentrated hydrochloric or even sulfuric acid. However, one should cover a wooden workbench in plastic or work in a shallow tray, as any splashes leave nasty stains on wood. Similarly, all metal tools should be out of reach, as even the fumes can lead to slight corrosion. Beware also of corrosion of metal parts in your sink, when you clean your equipment. Always rinse with large quantities of water. Spent ferric chloride solution is basically inert, when neutralised with a base and could be discarded into the sink after considerable dilution. It is better, however, to collect it and take it to your local dangerous substances collection point, clearly labelling what it is.
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