wefalck
-
Posts
5,635 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
wefalck got a reaction from Doreltomin in Mid 18th Century glass
Indeed, the bull's eye-glass (or 'Butzen' in German) has been very common and is used in 'romantic' reconstructions of medieval windows. However, considering that there only two bull's eyes coming out of each cylinder and only one from each disc, there must have been a considerable production of plate glass to give sufficient numbers of them for a window. I guess, from the mid-19th century on, they were not only 'waste' products anymore, but made specifically to meet medieval-revival demands. Also, in Germany the 'Butzen' often are 'bottle-green', indicating that inferior quality raw materials with a lot of metal contaminants were used - so the associated flat glass must have also been green.
Here is an image from Wikipedia that shows the production of disc-glass in the 'forest' ('en bois', because they needed the wood for fuel):
If I am not mistaken, sometime in the last quarter of the 19th century the float-glass was inventend in France, whereby the the near-liquid glass was poured onto a bassin with mercury. Indeed, France seems to have been technologically ahead in glass production for quite some time.
-
wefalck reacted to druxey in Mid 18th Century glass
Yes, that's my understanding, Welfalk. 'Blown plate' is another name for 'cylinder glass'. There was also spun glass, which was disc-like, the pontil mark piece of the disc becoming the cheapest 'bulls-eye' seen in old panes.
-
wefalck got a reaction from cog in Mid 18th Century glass
Wasn't this blown into a long cylinder, the bottom and top disc (with the blow-pipe attachment) cut off, the cylinder split lengthwise and then rolled flat while still hot ? Cheaper and smaller panes were cut from the discs, which accounts for the streaks often seen in old window panes.
-
wefalck got a reaction from dgbot in Mid 18th Century glass
Wasn't this blown into a long cylinder, the bottom and top disc (with the blow-pipe attachment) cut off, the cylinder split lengthwise and then rolled flat while still hot ? Cheaper and smaller panes were cut from the discs, which accounts for the streaks often seen in old window panes.
-
wefalck got a reaction from mtaylor in Mid 18th Century glass
Wasn't this blown into a long cylinder, the bottom and top disc (with the blow-pipe attachment) cut off, the cylinder split lengthwise and then rolled flat while still hot ? Cheaper and smaller panes were cut from the discs, which accounts for the streaks often seen in old window panes.
-
wefalck got a reaction from EJ_L in Mid 18th Century glass
Wasn't this blown into a long cylinder, the bottom and top disc (with the blow-pipe attachment) cut off, the cylinder split lengthwise and then rolled flat while still hot ? Cheaper and smaller panes were cut from the discs, which accounts for the streaks often seen in old window panes.
-
wefalck got a reaction from Thanasis in Making Shackles my way…
Actually, I don't mind people adopting ideas - but as you said, it's nasty to take someone elses pictures etc. and then post them at another place without due credit. I have whole pages from my own Web-site being 'mirrored' on Web-sites of certain Eastern European individuals and Russian fora - and they just don't care when you just ask for proper credit to be given.
Still, I like to share ideas, tips, information, because somehow it will be repaid by others sharing their ideas, tips, and information ... give and you will be given, as the Romans said.
-
wefalck got a reaction from BANYAN in Making Shackles my way…
Actually, I don't mind people adopting ideas - but as you said, it's nasty to take someone elses pictures etc. and then post them at another place without due credit. I have whole pages from my own Web-site being 'mirrored' on Web-sites of certain Eastern European individuals and Russian fora - and they just don't care when you just ask for proper credit to be given.
Still, I like to share ideas, tips, information, because somehow it will be repaid by others sharing their ideas, tips, and information ... give and you will be given, as the Romans said.
-
wefalck got a reaction from Altduck in Making Shackles my way…
Thanasis, my post was made in a hurry before going off to work and should have been worded more carefully. My apologies.
As a matter of fact, when I used the word 'exactly' I was referring to creating a flat, to drill it and then to shape it. I used a flat-nosed punch to flatten the wire, a sharp punch to mark the hole and to prevent the drill from slipping. I did not use a haemostat or similar to guide the drill.
It is always interesting to see that other people come up with the same or similar ideas for solving certain manufacturing problems.
The smallest shackles I produced this way were about 1.5 mm long. The size was also limited downwards by the fact that the smallest drill I had was 0.3 mm, so the wire had to be at least 0.3 mm diameter to stay within the proportions.
-
wefalck got a reaction from Altduck in Making Shackles my way…
Actually, I don't mind people adopting ideas - but as you said, it's nasty to take someone elses pictures etc. and then post them at another place without due credit. I have whole pages from my own Web-site being 'mirrored' on Web-sites of certain Eastern European individuals and Russian fora - and they just don't care when you just ask for proper credit to be given.
Still, I like to share ideas, tips, information, because somehow it will be repaid by others sharing their ideas, tips, and information ... give and you will be given, as the Romans said.
-
wefalck got a reaction from mtaylor in Making Shackles my way…
Actually, I don't mind people adopting ideas - but as you said, it's nasty to take someone elses pictures etc. and then post them at another place without due credit. I have whole pages from my own Web-site being 'mirrored' on Web-sites of certain Eastern European individuals and Russian fora - and they just don't care when you just ask for proper credit to be given.
Still, I like to share ideas, tips, information, because somehow it will be repaid by others sharing their ideas, tips, and information ... give and you will be given, as the Romans said.
-
wefalck got a reaction from cog in Making Shackles my way…
Thanasis, my post was made in a hurry before going off to work and should have been worded more carefully. My apologies.
As a matter of fact, when I used the word 'exactly' I was referring to creating a flat, to drill it and then to shape it. I used a flat-nosed punch to flatten the wire, a sharp punch to mark the hole and to prevent the drill from slipping. I did not use a haemostat or similar to guide the drill.
It is always interesting to see that other people come up with the same or similar ideas for solving certain manufacturing problems.
The smallest shackles I produced this way were about 1.5 mm long. The size was also limited downwards by the fact that the smallest drill I had was 0.3 mm, so the wire had to be at least 0.3 mm diameter to stay within the proportions.
-
wefalck reacted to Thanasis in Making Shackles my way…
EJ_L. Many thanks for your comment but it isn’t my idea. As I mentioned before, I just recall it from the past, having seen it as another member’s tip. I wish I could remember his name to give him the deserved praise.
Wefalck, say that nothing happened. Really no hard feelings at all.
Just to mention, that being ship modeler from almost 20 years, I faced twice that an idea of mine was "stolen" and was presented in forums as their ideas. I won't tell you the tips nor the nationality to protect them just only it was in the days of DryDock models forum.
In one case, he probably didn't manage to come in a result and in addition, he had used one of the photos of my own presentation.
They were run out of luck and I found them.... Through the messages we exchanged, I felt the embarrassment and their shame when I demanded to delete the posts and forget the issue.
So, having this experience, I couldn't even think to copy another's tip and present it as mine. It wouldn't make me richer.
Thx
-
wefalck got a reaction from mtaylor in Making Shackles my way…
Thanasis, my post was made in a hurry before going off to work and should have been worded more carefully. My apologies.
As a matter of fact, when I used the word 'exactly' I was referring to creating a flat, to drill it and then to shape it. I used a flat-nosed punch to flatten the wire, a sharp punch to mark the hole and to prevent the drill from slipping. I did not use a haemostat or similar to guide the drill.
It is always interesting to see that other people come up with the same or similar ideas for solving certain manufacturing problems.
The smallest shackles I produced this way were about 1.5 mm long. The size was also limited downwards by the fact that the smallest drill I had was 0.3 mm, so the wire had to be at least 0.3 mm diameter to stay within the proportions.
-
wefalck got a reaction from kees de mol in Making Shackles my way…
Thanasis, I tried to be 'tongue-in-the-cheek'. Quite busy at the moment, but will take the time a bit later to put a translation of the PDF onto my Web-site ... have to go and catch a plane now ...
-
wefalck got a reaction from kees de mol in Making Shackles my way…
Thanasis, I don't want to accuse you of being a 'copy-cat' as you probably don't read German - and therefore didn't see the article I published in 1980 in a modelling magazine that describes exactly the same technique
http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/tips/FALCK-SM-5-80.pdf
-
wefalck got a reaction from allanyed in Beefing Up Photo Etched Parts
Make sure that all photo-resist has been removed before trying to blacken etched parts. A solvent, such as acetone, should do the work.
On the topic of 'beefing up': I am only moderately fond of etched parts, when it comes to represent someting that in reality would have been cast or forged, particularly at larger scales. The parts just look to flat, even though their outline might be correct and quite detailed. In your case I would perhaps tin them thickly with a soldering iron. However, then you will have problems with the blackening and may have to resort to painting.
-
wefalck got a reaction from mtaylor in Making Shackles my way…
Thanasis, I tried to be 'tongue-in-the-cheek'. Quite busy at the moment, but will take the time a bit later to put a translation of the PDF onto my Web-site ... have to go and catch a plane now ...
-
wefalck got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Beefing Up Photo Etched Parts
Make sure that all photo-resist has been removed before trying to blacken etched parts. A solvent, such as acetone, should do the work.
On the topic of 'beefing up': I am only moderately fond of etched parts, when it comes to represent someting that in reality would have been cast or forged, particularly at larger scales. The parts just look to flat, even though their outline might be correct and quite detailed. In your case I would perhaps tin them thickly with a soldering iron. However, then you will have problems with the blackening and may have to resort to painting.
-
wefalck got a reaction from thibaultron in Source for belts for Dentist Drill
The green Chinese stuff in general is not so bad, just got another batch for my lathes/millers. However, if you can find a source for the original 'Polycord', which is a Swiss product, you will be probably happier, as it streches less and has a better grip. Polycord and its clones are available from 2 mm diameter up.
... still trying to find a source that will sell me few meters of Polycord without a surcharge of 70€ for minimum orders. There used to be a shop specialising in transmission belts in Vienna that sold it off the reel at the real price, but they threw the towel a few years ago (like so many small speciality shops).
-
wefalck got a reaction from BANYAN in Source for belts for Dentist Drill
The green Chinese stuff in general is not so bad, just got another batch for my lathes/millers. However, if you can find a source for the original 'Polycord', which is a Swiss product, you will be probably happier, as it streches less and has a better grip. Polycord and its clones are available from 2 mm diameter up.
... still trying to find a source that will sell me few meters of Polycord without a surcharge of 70€ for minimum orders. There used to be a shop specialising in transmission belts in Vienna that sold it off the reel at the real price, but they threw the towel a few years ago (like so many small speciality shops).
-
wefalck got a reaction from Canute in Beefing Up Photo Etched Parts
Make sure that all photo-resist has been removed before trying to blacken etched parts. A solvent, such as acetone, should do the work.
On the topic of 'beefing up': I am only moderately fond of etched parts, when it comes to represent someting that in reality would have been cast or forged, particularly at larger scales. The parts just look to flat, even though their outline might be correct and quite detailed. In your case I would perhaps tin them thickly with a soldering iron. However, then you will have problems with the blackening and may have to resort to painting.
-
wefalck got a reaction from slow2cool in Making Shackles my way…
Thanasis, I don't want to accuse you of being a 'copy-cat' as you probably don't read German - and therefore didn't see the article I published in 1980 in a modelling magazine that describes exactly the same technique
http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/tips/FALCK-SM-5-80.pdf
-
wefalck got a reaction from mtaylor in Beefing Up Photo Etched Parts
Make sure that all photo-resist has been removed before trying to blacken etched parts. A solvent, such as acetone, should do the work.
On the topic of 'beefing up': I am only moderately fond of etched parts, when it comes to represent someting that in reality would have been cast or forged, particularly at larger scales. The parts just look to flat, even though their outline might be correct and quite detailed. In your case I would perhaps tin them thickly with a soldering iron. However, then you will have problems with the blackening and may have to resort to painting.
-
wefalck got a reaction from mtaylor in Ratlines-What knot do you use on the ends? And how do you trim off the thread?
I have used the cow-hitch in smaller scales, as it represents the sewing without really having to do it - not that I am lazy, but it can be near-impossible to find a thin enough thread for the sewing.
Our Emblem ®
