albert

A small progress: keelson formed by three parts, with ebony nails.
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 158 –Deadeye Chain Plates
 
The deadeye chains (aka chain plates) on ships of this period were iron bar forged at each end with holes to take bolts.  I made these about 1” thick and 2 ½” in width, certainly stronger than the 11” shrouds.  These could have been made by the method used in the last post for the backing plates, namely by soldering tube at the end of a plate then slicing them off.  This would involve a lot of metal sawing and a lot of material wastage on these long pieces.  Also since the lower ends of these are bolted under the backing plates the rounding of the bolt eye need not be absolutely perfect.  The first picture shows the progression followed in forming these after the copper strips were cut to approximate width.
 

 
I used a paper cutter to cut the strips then straightened out the curls by stretching the strips in a vise as was done many months ago with the iron hull strapping.  Pulling these also hardens them, though that hardness is soon lost when they are annealed under the soldering torch.  The strip at the top has been drilled for the lower bolt.  In the center piece the lower eye has been roughly shaped.  At the bottom is the finished piece with its width reduced to the 2 ½” (.035” actual).
 
Before these parts could be sized and assembled with the deadeyes, the length of each chain had to be determined.  The next picture shows the positions of the chains on both starboard main channels being set out with the aid of a string taped at the height of the top on a dummy main mast.
 

 
Notches for the chain plates were then filed out and each plate fitted as shown in the next picture.
 

 
On this channel I set the backing links first, then pinned the chain plate at the bottom, bent the angle at the lower channel as shown. The top edge of the top channel was then marked on the plate, the plate removed and then trimmed to size.  The top of each of these was then crimped with pliers to make flat fore and aft surfaces to seat the iron deadeye straps.  In the next picture one of these straps has been formed around a 16” shroud deadeye.
 

 
The copper wire was wrapped around then crimped at the bottom.  The ends were then filed off square and then flattened with pliers.  On the ship these were bolted through the tops of the chain plates just above the channel.  I entertained the idea of bolting these until confronted with the small size – too small to drill – at least for me.  The next picture shows a strap and chain plate assembly after forming the chain at its position on the fore channel and before silver soldering the pieces together.
 

 
The next picture shows the pieces being soldered using a small propane torch.
 

 
Copper phosphorus solder was used because it blackens well with the liver of sulfur that I use to blacken the copper.  After soldering, these were dropped into a Sparex® solution.  After rinsing the deadeyes were fitted into the ring as shown in the next picture.
 

 
This entire assembly was then dipped in liver of sulfur solution to blacken the copper. 
 
The next picture shows the fore channel with the lower shroud deadeyes installed. 
 

 
These are bolted (nailed) into the 6” thick wale planking with the top bolts in the uppermost wale strake.  All the chains are shown being restrained from unruly behavior by bits of masking tape.  The smaller chain plate forward of the last shroud chain will anchor the eyebolt for the standing end of the upper topsail halyard.  This lighter duty chain has no backing plate and was made from 20-gauge copper wire flattened a bit.  I may replace this with a rectangular bar – like the others but smaller.
 
 The channel capping rails will be added after the remaining chains for other rigging are fitted.  When that is done all the chain plates will be straightened. At present the soft annealed copper on these is a bit deformed from handling. The deadeyes will be aligned neatly at the top later when the ship is rigged.  The last picture shows the main channel after fitting of the six lower shroud chains.
 

 
Ed

I like the work you're doing, everything looks perfect.
All connections are correct and I love the quality of the wood..

Albert,
 
this is so wonderful work, will it afterwards be visable by means of deck-outcuts, etc... ?
 
Nils

Hi Guys
 
I have wanted to do this project for years.. so here goes!
 
This is my first plank on frame build model...
 
I am using swiss pear. I will keep you updated.
 
Thanks
 
Tim

Another photos 
 

 

 

 

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here are some photos of the naiad in construction...
 

 
 
http://i.imgbox.com/adbOFtmU.jpg
 
 

 
 

 

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Congratulation Bob your model is fantastic.

Very nice work.

Thanks for the comments and the "likes"...
 
Here's the rudder ready to hang.   Once the cudgeons are on the hull, I'll add the rudder coat and mount it.  I'll probably pin it to the sternpost from the inside of the hull just to keep it in place as I'll be flipping the hull over a few more times before cutting it loose and mounting it to a cradle.
 
I made a judgement call after testing on some scrap about the bolts.  Not going to happen.  If the bolts are visible, they're oversize by an order of magnitude.  If' they're just the right size, they're invisible.  
 
I also did some testing to compare Jax Black to Birchwood Casey Black.  Not much difference except maybe the Birchwood Casey is a bit blacker and also seems to cover silver solder better.
 
Been a busy of testing this stuff.  
 
Ok.. pictures.....
 
First piccy shows the old and the new together.  I'm happier with the new and the old is hitting the scrap box.   The second pic has a dummy sternpost next to it.  I've got a big smile on that one.  
 

 

Hi Fam, very nice work, bravo.

I did some experiment with the last lens. On the forth picture the photo is twisted. Actually I am doing bricklaying for the oven.

There are only two port covers.  The aft one is for the last cannon.  The covers are made of two layers of wood;  the interior is vertical and the exterior matches the run of planking.  The frieze was painted before the hinge straps were added.
 

 
The hinges were made of the pieces seen in the photograph and then silver soldered.  
 

 

 

 
There are eyebolts on the inner and outer faces of the gun port and three additional bolts.   The rigging will be added after the exterior hull is a little more complete to prevent damage.
 

 
The fore port cover is smaller and allows airflow to the fore part of the ship.  It is hinged on its fore side to prevent it from being blown open.  There is an eyebolt on the inside face.  It appears to be hanging lopsided.  This is an optical illusion caused by the curved shape of the hull.
 

 

 

Hi,
thanks for the very nice comments,
and to all other for the LIKES!
 
Now the time has come.
The cutters are finalized.
To this end, a few pictures.

 

 

 

 

The roof of the coach has been completed and installed. As this is curved, a suitable strategy for building it is needed. I considered carving it from solid, but this would be difficult to keep a consistent thickness. I decided to cooper it, that is to say, build it up as one would a barrel. 
 
The first step was to carve a form to build it on. I hollowed a piece of basswood to the appropriate radius, which in this case was 3½" full size (first photo). It was then shaped to the shape of the roof and marked out for the six planks that are nominally 1' 0" (scale) wide. These were cut and shaped with a slight bevel on each edge. They were then glued up on the form. 
 
Once complete, two 'rafters' were glued on the underside to maintain shape and integrity. A piece of fine sandpaper was rubber cemented to the form and the upper side of the roof sanded (second and third photos). The outer side edges of the roof were sanded flat, to fit the coach top edges. 
 
Following the color used on Prince Frederick's barge, I painted the roof a blueish green to imitate a verdigris copper roof. On the actual barge, the roof appears to be covered with painted canvas. I used a mix of viridian green, some white and then toned down with the addition of a touch of black. The top of the capitals on the coach were also painted this color and the roof glued in place. 
 
Next is the decorative work at the stern.

Hi Fam, very nice work, bravo.

Thank you all for the comments and Likes .
 
I've moved to the External Planking of the Port side, as one of the next steps on the inside is fitting the Port Liners which need to be done after the external planking goes on.
 
First up is the Wales, which are 4 1/2" thick (real size). The upper strake is parallel while the two lower strakes are in "Top and Butt" configuration. I've made them from Ebony.
 
The smudges on the wales are from water, as I'd just fitted them and cleaned off the excess glue. I've sanded a very slight bevel on the edges to make them stand out a bit better. The top and bottom strakes have a significant bevel where they meet up with the thinner strakes above and below :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks Pat.
 
The Mainmast Partners on Vulture are rather unusual, being a wedge shape. There are four pieces to them :
 

 

 
The Pump tubes fitted :
 

 
  Danny

This week I nearly completed the feedwater pump.  We know the type of pump and location from a post that is bolted into the cylinder timbers at the after end of the crosshead slide.  A linkage to the crosshead would have moved a lever that activated two pumps.  A low pressure pump (aft side of post) would have drawn water through the side of the vessel somewhat below the waterline and pushed it into the preheater (shroud around steam exhaust).  A more heavily constructed high pressure pump then pulled the water from the preheater and delivered it to the boilers.
 
Pumo lever and linkage.

 

 
 
Support posts for the pump.  I cut these a little long and the cross piece at the top is only temporary.  The top end will be cut off at the upper deck and fastened to the upper deck beams. The plates on the sides of the post will guide the reach rods.

 
Pump lever linked to cross head.  Fitting the shroud around the steam exhaust.

 

 
Determining the run of the reach rods and plumbing.  With the water lines and reach rods it gets pretty busy in this area.  I didn't quite get it all together and will have till next week to finish.

 
The low pressure pump is still a little too tall but I left it in to give an idea about the whole set-up.