jud

Heavy and tall is OK, if properly secured. 542 Class LST South China Sea, 1967

Heavy and tall is OK, if properly secured. 542 Class LST South China Sea, 1967

Heavy and tall is OK, if properly secured. 542 Class LST South China Sea, 1967

Thank you for all the hints and advises.
I have searched the net of course, but as also seen here, most of the picture you get are from the moored ships, where the deck is full of various things that would not be there under sails. The hint with the salt or fresh water being rather protected under than exposed atop got the points, I will need to think out. The limited experience from the small recreational yacht led me to this question - as said everything left unattached will fly even under not so hard weather conditions
As I was afraid, showing busy deck is eye catching, but under sail it does not have much support in reality.Could not imagine anything heavy and tall just laid on this deck
 

In 65, I boarded the Cape Race, a 34' King Salmon Troller in Bellingham and rode her to SE Alaska for the fishing season. Took some beatings but enjoyed the whole trip. just the Skipper and myself aboard, Kings weren't biting, jig for Halibut or go deer hunting on an island.

In 65, I boarded the Cape Race, a 34' King Salmon Troller in Bellingham and rode her to SE Alaska for the fishing season. Took some beatings but enjoyed the whole trip. just the Skipper and myself aboard, Kings weren't biting, jig for Halibut or go deer hunting on an island.

Fishermen who spend their lives afloat would figure it out and each solution and the details would vary from boat to boat, man to man and from each type of container. It's contents and intended use would dictate the where. You need to make a decision on contents and intended use to make a good decision on location. Having chased 8" projectile's, a fork lift and hundreds of random items around the decks of rolling modern ships I have learned something about securing for sea. Movement of any kind is the killer, no matter how small it may be, it will grow and if not stopped will break out. However you chose to secure the barrels they must be hard against a structural part of the ship or the lines, straps or chains secured directly to the ship and need to be easily adjusted. Make your choice on the reason for the barrels being there in the first place then secure them for sea where they can be used for their intended purpose or leave them in a box near your work bench.
 

In 65, I boarded the Cape Race, a 34' King Salmon Troller in Bellingham and rode her to SE Alaska for the fishing season. Took some beatings but enjoyed the whole trip. just the Skipper and myself aboard, Kings weren't biting, jig for Halibut or go deer hunting on an island.

Jud, this why I think barrels would have been left below securely lashed. Even if securely lashed would you want a water barrel on deck where it could possibly be contaminated with seawater? Why couldn't buckets of salt be brought up from below as needed?
 
 I commercial fished salmon in Bristol Bay, Alaska as a deckhand on a 32 footer. One stormy day we swapped ends with a single wave and everything not tied down flew overboard including my favorite pick. 

Fishermen who spend their lives afloat would figure it out and each solution and the details would vary from boat to boat, man to man and from each type of container. It's contents and intended use would dictate the where. You need to make a decision on contents and intended use to make a good decision on location. Having chased 8" projectile's, a fork lift and hundreds of random items around the decks of rolling modern ships I have learned something about securing for sea. Movement of any kind is the killer, no matter how small it may be, it will grow and if not stopped will break out. However you chose to secure the barrels they must be hard against a structural part of the ship or the lines, straps or chains secured directly to the ship and need to be easily adjusted. Make your choice on the reason for the barrels being there in the first place then secure them for sea where they can be used for their intended purpose or leave them in a box near your work bench.
 

What is the metal that you are trying to anneal?

Actually, the thingy doesn't really tie the knot, you do this separately. All it does, it keeps the knot close to the pearl in this case.
 
You can do this perhaps even more easily with a needle held in a pin-vise around which you make the knot - pull on the loose end until the knot sits close to point were you want to have it and slowly pull out the needle while still pushing it against the pearl or whatever.

Going to keep the openings, you will be needing some Bitts and Fairleads leading to them.
 

Being an X Navy Gunners Mate, I like Guns, Lots of Guns, but why would a perfectly good Schooner need Chase Guns? If pursued, steer upwind and run off over the horizon if over gunned. Also guns and carriages are heavy, the stern of a schooner is a poor place to be adding the weight of guns, carriages and crews that can only be fired aft and those guns and carriages would be the devil to move elsewhere to trim the ship or to store amidships and move them into an position if needed. Forget the Ports, not a logical place for an armed schooner to have guns, just the additional structure to handle the weight cantilevered aft, would handicap the ship and slow her down.
 

There are some tricks to masking with tape.
 
Paint adheres best to somewhat rough surfaces. Sanding with medium grit sandpaper (150-200) will usually produce a lightly scratched surface that paint will adhere to. Be sure to clean the dust and grit from the surface before painting.
 
Primers are formulated for good adhesion, and the matching paint adheres to the primer. Some paints are "self priming" meaning that you can apply several thin coats of the same paint. "Thin" is the key word here.
 
I have found it is best to remove the tape as soon as the paint becomes tacky, and before it can dry and harden. If it forms a tough dry film up and over the edge of the tape it will tend to lift when the tape is removed.
 
If you are worried about paint bleeding under the tape there is a simple trick. For example, suppose you have painted the bottom of a hull red and then want to paint the top black. First, paint the bottom of the hull with red paint to above the line where you want to mask it off. After the paint is thoroughly dry (do not rush this!) apply the tape and then apply a light coat of red paint along the edge of the tape, so if there is any bleeding it will be red. After the red paint drys apply the black paint up to and over the edge of the tape. But use the paint sparingly to avoid a heavy build up at the edge of the tape.
 
A slight raised bead of paint is common along the edge of the tape, especially if you apply a heavy coat of paint. After the paint hardens and the tape is removed it is pretty easy to eliminate the edge with very careful and gentle scraping.

The book is worth reading anyway to get a flavour of serving on an American merchant ship and sailing round the Horn to what became San Francisco. ////////  
 
 

OK, I needed this earlier this evening. 

I believe Lavery is referring to the entire stove being made of brick which was the practice before cast iron stoves, not just the bed to the underside of the stove.
 
Gary

Kevin,
 
That’s called a ContraGuide rudder.   It is shaped that way to straighten flow from the propeller.
 
The propeller works by accelerating a column of water behind the ship.  The reaction to this column of water, Newton’s Third Law, is a force in the opposite direction that pushes the ship ahead. Water, however, is viscous and this viscosity causes the water in the column from the propeller to rotate.   This rotation is lost energy.  The offsets on the rudder are intended to introduce a vector opposite to that of the rotating water column, to recover the lost energy.
 
Roger
 
 

Monfeld is my go-to starter when I need info.   Not the greatest for but for what it has it's enough to often answer my questions and get me started.   After that... it's a mixed bag of monographs from ANCRE, and assorted books like Hahn's, Dobbs and Moore, and others.  There is also the Net and Google is my friend for searching.   I do have a lot of site bookmarked as references.

THANKS GUYS......as usual a fount of knowledge

This is how it looks like on the Polish sailing ship "Dar Młodzieży" (Gift of the Youth) - the green area on the right.

here is a sketch from AOTS Royal Caroline that illustrates it rather well.

There are different profiles and the waterways may actually be composed of several pieces of wood in cases. The basic objective is to turn what would be an acute angle between the deck and bulwark into an obtuse angle. Acute angles would collect water, which then can lead to rot.
 
The same logic applies to iron- or steel-ships. Here the gutter is formed often by two angle-irons running along the edge of the deck at some distance apart. One angle buts against the bulwark, the other forms a frame for the wooden deck (as noted above). The space between the angle irons typically is filled with cement to form a rounded gutter. This also prevent water from collecting in the corners of the angle-irons.

Amidships, Port side, USS Helena CA 75, 1961. Wood Deck laid over steel and waterway. Whaleboat visible, rigged for quick deployment, we had two and rubber rafts were used for Life Rafts.