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Mike Y

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Everything posted by Mike Y

  1. Mike Y
    Actually never understood the idea of mounting the gardboard plank first. It is quite difficult to get its shape right. I planked pinnace from top to the bottom, and the gardboard was shaped only when I had just 3-4 plank layers left. Then you clearly see remaining width, have enough planks to make fine corrections, and can easilly shape the gardboard as needed. Installing gardboard plank right on the start will require a really good calculations and intuition.. But, again, disclaimer - I'm not a planking expert.. Sorry..
  2. Mike Y
    Sure! However, I'm also not a planking expert, and will use methods described in some other build logs on that forum, like http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-ms-148-tri-club/ or http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4930-18th-century-longboat-by-stuntflyer-mike-model-shipways/
  3. Mike Y
    Just in case somebody is interested - I started the longboat build log - http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/6801-18th-century-longboat-by-mike-y-model-shipways-148/ Nothing interesting there (yet), but a warm welcome to all subscribers of this log, I will try to make it as interesting as possible. Popcorn, beer, sandwiches, sawdust!
  4. Mike Y
    It is second build, first one was a similar model - English Pinnace This time I will make it slower, no rush. And will try to avoid all mistakes done on Pinnace I will use kit details for frames and keel, and boxwood for everything else. No paint, no stain, only natural wood colour. No friesers, and no paintings on a transom also. Instead, it would be planked and treenailed. Sorry for skipping the decorations, I just prefer the simple design. For a start - traditional photos of every longboat builder - parts sanded from laser char, keel and falsekeel, simple building jig to hold it straight. First pinnace mistake avoided - bevel on a false keel is smaller, different angle, to gently handle a plank on an angle specified by frames. Sounds obvious, but on a pinnace I made a bevel with a wrong angle, and there was a small gap between garboard plank and keel. First impression - it is sooooooo small! Very nice scale, it is big enough to make it with a good precision (I hope), but fits into a palm. Should be very cute when done
  5. Mike Y
    Thanks for that wave of comments! Finished the display case. I made it out of plexiglass sheets and L shaped furu wood. Looks so-so, CA is not the best way to glue plexiglass, and frankly I failed to cut accurate glass rectangles with required precision. So next time will buy a manufactured case. It sounds ridiculous, but I have no place to put the model on display. This problem slightly crossed my mind before, but I preferred not to think where to put model before it's finished. So now it is going to the drawer, until I move from rental to my own apartment, where I can easily mount a nice shelf on a wall Next build would be a scratch Oliver Cromwell using Hahn's method, but I just ordered it from Lumberyard a few weeks ago. So will start a Longboat build while waiting. Hope that Oliver Cromwell will arrive in a matter of a month or so, hence Longboat would become a side build - when I will feel bored with cutting big pieces into small pieces to make a big pieces to cut them into small pieces to make a big pieces © mtaylor.
  6. Mike Y
    Remco, thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
  7. Mike Y
    Depends on a glue, but with PVA-based wood glues usually one surface is enough. Applying it to two surfaces you will most probably have too many glue, which you will need to remove later. But try your glue on a scrap pieces, the best answer is just an experiment.
  8. Mike Y
    But now the good part. Quoting Chuck's manual - "That completes the model!!!" I'm still in progress with the display case, but she is completed! Yahooo! Chuck, thanks again for that fun build, that looks simple, but actually forces to learn new techniques and go to the next level of accuracy. Next buid would be a Longboat, since my wife really thinks it looks better with sails, and I want to make a better planking with boxwood Ok, in reality I just want to make a pinnace again, this time avoiding all mistakes I did, but making the same model again is kind of silly, and I really love the look of longboat. Also, longboat build would be much slower - I will not rush things to complete it quicker. Thanks everybody who watched, helped and commented - it is quite fun, much better then just modelling without being able to share!
  9. Mike Y
    Anchor rope in the kit is definitely not as gourgeous as on Chuck's prototype. Frankly, it looks very cheap and definitely not like a rope (more like a wire), but since it is the last bit of a model - I gave up, and decided not to bother with ordering a proper one.
  10. Mike Y
    Remco, would you mind if I bother you with a next batch of questions regarding finish? it is one of the best I ever saw, so I am trying to learn on best examples! What is the benefit of microcrystalline wax comparing to tung oil, why do you prefer it now? And all that comparing to wipe-on-poly? Do you apply finish to a tiny pieces, like the beds, closets, etc? What finish have you used for frames? And the last one - what is your tactics for when to finish? Do you apply it before gluing, or after? Thanks for all advices!
  11. Mike Y
    Hooray! I finished all the messy part of gluing metal parts onto wood parts. Damn CA! Hate it! Metal bumper looks much better then a paper one. Or I probably just cant work with the paper (some build logs of ships from card totally changed the view on paper) Rudder tiller have a brass rod inside to make a stronger joint with a rudder: And here is the rudder installed. Fully functional, you can rotate it gently Trunk of the pinnace looked too empty. Then I started to think... What could be there? It is a flashy pinnace, not the one that is used to carry food supply. It is intended to transport officers. What they could carry with them?? Aha! Some high quality booze, to make sure it will not disappear while officers are on the shore. So here is a tiny booze tank: SKÅL!
  12. Mike Y
    Works now! No acetone, just a mechanical force of a metal circle brush
  13. Mike Y
    Cracked the reason. My brass was covered with a layer of something transparent, for a nice shiny look. Brushed it away with a metal disk brush, to expose a bare brass. Now it blackens immediately, as expected! Awesome!
  14. Mike Y
    Got it, will experiment with cleaning/sanding/vinegar before blackening. Thanks!
  15. Mike Y
    Thanks Dan! Maybe I should not dilute the blackening agent then? After 10min, parts were not black at all. Fist sign of blackness appeared after 30min or so.
  16. Mike Y
    Blackening liquid arrived (Birchwood Casey), but the first blackening was an epic fail Blackening just falls off, it do not stick at all. I cant take a piece with fingers or tweetzer, the black patina just sticks to fingers, thats it: What has go wrong? My workflow was: 1) put brass parts into acetone for 30min to degrease 2) rinse with water 3) put into blackening liquid diluted with water 1:8 4) wait for 30-60min 5) Actually blackening stopped after 30min, so I added a bit more liquid, maybe it ended up close to 1:6 ratio. 6) removed after 2 hours in liquid 7) rinsed with water 8) left to dry overnight. Maybe I should use another ratio? Or use distilled water instead of tap one? Or? Would appreciate any hints!
  17. Mike Y
    We should be also careful with comparing that, measurement standards could be different (internal/external could be messed up, for example)
  18. Mike Y
    Thanks druxey! It is a big relief, then I can look on similar ships of that period, ignoring their geographical origin (I'm not a historical correctness maniac anyway )
  19. Mike Y
    Probably the most efficient way would be to remove all frames, and glue them again using some jig to guarantee a proper alignment. I did a jig with lego bricks, some people use card templates, or evenly sized spacers, etc. It's very hard to do a proper alignment without a jig.
  20. Mike Y
    Also, it may sound obvious, but not mentioned in a manual. Shape the inner edge of the plank with a file, to have a better contact between planks, to avoid gaps. No shaping, there most probably would be a gap: Shaped planks, no gaps: P.S.: and, again, do not count on sanding to level your hull and hide planking mistakes. It is purely cosmetic, in that build planks are too thin to be significantly sanded. P.P.S.: good luck, and just start it!
  21. Mike Y
    You wipe off all excess water when you pull the soaked plank from the water. So it would be just damp, but not dripping wet. I had no problems with getting moisture into the bulkheads. However, you will need lots of small clamps. There was a nice topic somewhere, about making a simple clamps from a paper clips. Looks like this, and very handy: But always put a small pieces of scrap wood or card between clamp and plank, basswood is so soft that it would be smashed otherwise. P.S.: don't overthink it, just get started! There are spare planks in the kit, you have a room for a mistake, especially if you use a glue that could be dissolved with water or alcohol. Planks are attached incorrectly? Not a big deal, tear them away, glue again. I used PVA-style glue, just add a water, glue joint is getting weak, you remove the plank and reuse it again.
  22. Mike Y
    The basswood strips from the kit are soft after 10sec soaking in a boiled water. You can bend them with a bare hands, or clamp, etc. Just don't glue a wet strip, it will shrink when dried, so you will end up with gaps. I usually used a slow technique - soak the plank, pre-bend with fingers, clamp it to the frames to have the same shape as needed, leave it overnight to try, next evening - glue that planks, and soak and fit next pair. As a result, you glue just 2 planks per day (one on each side), but bending is easy, plank is perfectly fitted when try.
  23. Mike Y
    Amazing! Is there a video? How do you control her? Rotating the masts?
  24. Mike Y
    Matti, with your skills, have you thought about actually making a mast from a multiple pieces, like on a real ship?
  25. Mike Y
    Now it's a true engineering approach! The future deck clamps (red arrows on a first photo) woud be removed later, or they would carry some weight?

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