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Mike Y

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  1. Mike Y
    Toni, thanks for the advice! I am probably just overthinking it Digged through various blogs here - indeed, looks like a light passes of blade, chisels and scrapers will work nicely. Just do not use power tools and do not rush it. Hope it will work out! Omega, Mark, thanks a lot!
  2. Mike Y
    Hip hip hooray!
  3. Mike Y
    End result: Now the fun part - cutting the rabbet. I do not have any power tools to do it, so will make some hand jig and will slooooowly cut it with chisel and knife. Now when the keel is assembled, it would be a pity to ruin it by making a bad rabbet.
  4. Mike Y
    Removed the nasty laser char. In hindsight, it is good that I selected a timbering set without laser cut frames, the char removal process is messy and definitely not pleasant. In his youtube videos, Dave recommends to remove the char using the shaving blade. It works only to small extent, because char is pretty deep in the wood. Here are the laser cut pieces on a different phased of cleaning: Another issue is a bad precision of a laser at some lines, they are cut with "steps", so lots of wood should be filed away to make that surface smooth: Some joints are too wide - they fit tightly with char, but if you start to remove the char (and the "steps") - then the joint is too weak: So I cut away that joint and scratched a new one Another improvement was a deadwood - supplied laser cut deadwood was made of a single piece, which is too far from desired level of correctness. So I made a better one. But it was a hell of a job to nicely fit all the curved timbers together! It is easy to make a tight fit when parts are straight, but when they are curved - it really needs a skill. Here is how ugly it looks when just cut: Next time will try to cut smoother... It took around 4 hours of sanding and filing and sending and filing to make them fit. Resulting fitting is not great, but next time will do better:
  5. Mike Y
    Your precision and accuracy on that scale is fantastic!
  6. Mike Y
    Serious approach! Maybe you can try to cut a few test planks from some more standard modelling wood, to see if the problem is in the saw or in the wood? Also, what is the problem exactly? If you show some photos illustrating it - maybe there is an easy solution for the problem.
  7. Mike Y
    Wow, now it looks very accurate! Lovely!
  8. Mike Y
    Interesting wood selection! Bloody station
  9. Mike Y
    Ben, actually just recently I was looking on a photos in your log, looking on your nice wood, thinking "yep, there is Pear and pear...."
  10. Mike Y
    Yep, saw in the Swan or Echo build logs, that Jeff's pear is quite different indeed. Darker, more cherry-ish Next frame, this time I am an idiot. Missed a tiny crack on a frame blank, after sanding it is becoming very clear: The colour variation of a brighter/darker pear might be actually good. Hard to say, need to make at least 10-15 frames and dry-fit them, to see how it really looks together. Now the plan is simple - assemble the keel, install 4 "key" frames (I selected frames 4, 10, 16, 23), make sure that everything is measured correctly - and then start a frame mass-production!
  11. Mike Y
    Ok, I probably was too emotional while writing previous post. Reviewed all planks today, separating them into "normal" and "trash it" piles. 31% of planks are defected (big grey areas, etc). Luckily, on most of them defect takes around half of the plank, so in total I am going to trash around 15-20% of planks. That would be probably ok, because I am hoping that there was a reserve for oopsies. Close-up of defected wood: Normal wood: Even without grey spots, note the colour deviation on a "normal" pile. it is clear that Lumberyard have a "prime" wood, that is used for laser cut parts. They are really good - quite consistent dark colour, amazing: For some reason, for frame blanks Lumberyard use second sort pear. That is fully understandable, with Hahn method most of the wood package is a wood for frame blanks, and using cheaper wood probably makes a big different cost-wise. But I would appreciate if they just offer a prime wood for frame blanks, for extra cost.. Will continue with that wood for a while. If after 10 frames it would be obvious that this wood is too bad - will recycle all frames and make a new ones with a wood from Hobbymill. I saw their swiss pear in a various build logs, and it is very consistent in colour. And I have boxwood from Hobbymill, which is the best would I ever saw. No problem with it, happy customer. P.S.: I have no intention on blaming Lumberyard, but it would be fair to post a photos of a wood that you get in a package. Sorry for rant, but it is quite disappointing to feel the second rate customer, who got the second rate wood.
  12. Mike Y
    Mark, you are right, the outside edge of a frame is more important. But on the outside it looks simply like a dirty grey stain. I understand that wood have a colour variation, and it is good. But long grey spots are not ok Alan, welcome! Happy to see you
  13. Mike Y
    Brian, I am idiot, I meant ebony of course David, thanks for explanation! Will probably try it anyway, and fallback to painted boxwood if I will fail to tame that tricky wood
  14. Mike Y
    Finished 4 frame blanks and cut 4 frames in total. Last blanks were laminated using really strong clamps, that squeeze the glue under blanks like the previous clamps were not able to do. Surprisingly, I cannot find any difference in lamination quality when I look on a cut frames. Thickness and consistency of lamination looks the same. Probably I was overthinking it What turned out to be more important is an edge joint of a blank pieces - they should fit really tight, my table saw can't give such a clean cut, so on a last few blanks I used a belt sander to make sure that joints are perfectly tight. And that is visible on a frames. However, I will need to trash one frame. It is all due to the ugly grey spots on a frame blank stock. When sanded, they look even uglier. On a right side of a photo - healthy swiss pear, on a left side - smoker's pear Seriously, why are they included in the timbering package? What am I expected to do with such wood? It is not suitable for a modelling, I will just trash all the wood with that grey areas, and there are quite a lot of planks with that defect Or I am being picky? Don't think so, the defects in the wood are striking.
  15. Mike Y
    Pardon for a stupid question, but what is so messy about ebony? I only saw in the logs that it is * Really hard to bend * Hard wood, hard to sand to shape * Some people have a bad allergic reaction to ebony Is that it? Or there is something else? Thinking of using ebony for false keel and wales..
  16. Mike Y
    Thanks for the information, Allan! It is a pity that there is no even brief description on seawatchbooks website. Just some "volume", whatever that means. Only the last volume is clearly described as "masting and rigging". That might actually stop people from buying a book because they are not sure what is inside.. Sorry for the rant I was going to buy only the first volume, because I was unsure if I need a second one. Now I know it, thanks to Allan, so I will buy first two volumes. Just a bit of extra information => plus one book in the customer order
  17. Mike Y
    Thanks for advice, Mark! It is something I could never guess before starting to fair the hull, it can only come with experience! Will cut "just outside the line".
  18. Mike Y
    Thanks for all the help! Applied much more glue this time, glue was pre-dried (small can left opened for 24hr). Looks much better, warping is minimal, and I used some extra clamps, stronger ones. As it turned out, the lamination was ok - no sign of gaps or warping anywhere when the frame is cut. Cut the test frame just to verify the process. It would not be installed on a model, the goal is only to practice. First question: what is the proper margin, how far should I cut from the lines? If I cut too far away - frames would be either fat, or there would be an enormous amount of sanding later on (and with too much sanding the final shape of a frame would not be close to a proper lines). If I cut too close - frames would be too small after sanding. What is the golden rule of thumb? Here is the side of a frame. Glue layer is slightly visible, but I guess that is expected? Or not? A lot of sanding and scraping to bring the frame down to desired 7.2mm thickness. Note to readers - avoid using a heavy grits, even if you need to remove a lot. Sanded with 60 grit and got some deep scratches, very hard to remove. Good that it is a test frame, would be quite sad otherwise And the end result is: When sanded with a fine grits (1200 => 2000), the colour difference between various part of the frame is striking. Not sure what to do with that.. Well, in the end it is not plastic, so it is quite expected from wood to have a different colour naturally Please post any critics, it is very important to get the technology right on a test frames. I am posting detailed process pictures hoping that somebody will spot a mistakes and share a good advice before I will produce 40 frames using a wrong technology
  19. Mike Y
    (carefully writing down the notes). Mark, thanks again for a step-by-step documentation of your build. It is very useful for a novice builders like me! However, just in case if you missed it before, is that an optical illusion or there is a small "pit" in the frame here? Or the frames would be significantly sanded anyway, so such small things should be ignored?
  20. Mike Y
    Got that "daylight" lamp from amazon, and I'm really happy with its light! Bright, right colours, no headache.
  21. Mike Y
    Thanks for advices, Mark! Also will make a sanding jig to make a perfectly tight edge joint of blank pieces, without spending money on a disk sander So, here it goes - trial and experiment!
  22. Mike Y
    Thanks Peter, I will try more. Need to find a consistent process giving a perfect result, otherwise too many frames would be ruined later on Will apply more glue and closer to the edge, plus ordered extra and stronger clamps. 5mm plexiglass should hold quite a big pressure!
  23. Mike Y
    Mike, if you don't mind - could you please post a link to your Syren log to this log? Just to make sure that your followers will not miss it in a big list of other logs
  24. Mike Y
    Mark, Greg, thanks for comments! But there is one thing I do not understand. If the surface of blanks would be rough when gluing them together - that will increase the gap between the blanks, and will require to apply more glue, which will increase the wood warping. Or I simply need more clamps and higher pressure to prevent warping.. I'm already pre-drying the glue to reduce the moisture level. But if two very experienced builders recommend it - I should listen. Will sand the blanks with a low grit to get a rough surface, will see how it behaves.
  25. Mike Y
    Started to make a frame blanks. Discovered that my table saw is not precise enough, but luckily frame blanks do not require a lot of precision. First - edge gluing on a flat surface, with a blueprint under the glass to make sure that everything is assembled correctly: Second - laminating. Many thanks to Mark for making a good thread where hidden traps of lamination are discussed. I used a thick plexiglass and a lot of clamps: Even with a small layer of glue, that is pre-dried, wood warped a bit: But after 10 hours it looks close to normal, no warping: But I'm worried that there is a consistent small gap between the layers: To reduce the gap, will need to apply more glue - but that will case even more warping. Or try to polish the surface of blanks even more before gluing (I sanded them with 240 and 380 grits) By the way, quality of wood for blanks is, khm, questionable. Width varies a lot (might be ok, it is just blanks, but makes it harder to cut with an accurate angle on a tablesaw). Thickness is also very random, will need a careful thickness sanding when frames would be cut. Colour of that swiss pear is also very different, from very pale to bright pink. The most strange thing is that all laser cut parts are much darker than planks for frame blanks, but they are expected to be same wood (swiss pear). Luckily, this time colour difference is actually good, I was worried that frames would be too dark. And having a darker keel and keelson might be ok. But it would be good to have a consistent colour of the wood inside one package. Plus a lot of planks have a pretty visible grey areas, around half of the planks are affected. Worried that they might be visible on a frames. Like this: I understand that it is perfectly natural for the wood, but that's the whole point of buying a milled wood for modelling - it should not have such imperfections... Or I might be just spoiled by a wood package from Hobbymill

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