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Everything posted by Mike Y
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Here is how shaved hedgehog could look like: This dremel nylon disk brush turned out to be really good tool to remove remainings of the glue: Example:
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Treenail imitation in progress. It turned out to be faster then I thought, average speed is about a hundred nails per hour, including drilling. Holes are 0.60mm, I did a series of tests on scrap planks, 0.60 is the best looking compromise. 0.70 too big, while 0.50 is too tight, a lot of glue is not getting into the hole, some nails fall off. Nice hedgehog The trickiest part would be cutting off the toothpics and remainings of glue, with a very little sanding. Some planks are too thin after previous hull sanding.. Hobby knife should do the trick!
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Time for a warm lamp light! Very easy to mark treenai holes with a small spotlight. Planks are thin and frames are neatly highlighted
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There are also similar products for nail polishing, but they all have a fixed size chuck. Of course, the power of such tool would be really low, so you can't drill any hardwood or press it. But, hey, it's a tiny drill anyway, that will break if you try to use power on it..
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Looking for a mini mini drill, to make a tiny holes in planking. Dremel is a bit too heavy for it, I'm afraid of breaking the drill bit while holding it. Ideally it should be powered by AA battery or two. I found some engravers that looks exactly like I need, but it's not possible to put a tiny 0.3-0.5mm drill bit in it, they don't have any chuck. Would appreciate any hints!
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Probably the easiest way would be to find a photos of original planking. I tried to google them, looks not easy really Was in Sjöhistoriska museet this weekend, unfortunately they have no good yacht models or photos. The one they have are made with a solid hull, no planking. But they have a quite big archive, maybe you can send a query?
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Bob, your model is one of the cutiest! If you dont mind, can I steal your treenail pattern? It is the best!
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Slowpoke detected, it is me! I was sure that MS pinnace is the same as MS longboat, but without masts. MS website promise that lengtth is equal. But, no! I had a growing suspicion, hey, longboats in other build logs looks shorter then mine, thy is it soooooo long? It looks like Pinnace is a stretched longboat, 24 frames instead of 16. Which gives me around thousand treenails, if i use "two treenails per frame per plank" pattern. That is a hell lot of toothpics! But looks like I have no choice. Sanding cant fix all planking mistakes, if you dont want to have a holes in the hull: Wide stealer plank is better then two thin straler planks, but worse then a properly precalculated evenly sized planks
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Bob, you are right. I just decided to drop that "false transom", don't like how it looks Also, since the "natural color" of basswood turned out to be quite pale, and different planks have different colors - will stain it a bit.
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For a newbie, what is special in "Hahn method"? I read a number of build logs. it looks like any other admirality style model. Well, yes, you use a jig and start building upside down, but probably there is something else that I totally miss.
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Yahoo! Finished the hull planking! Looks ugly before sanding: (Yes, wood is of different color, no more basswood!) But much better after sanding: Final sanding would be done after a treenails imitation. Planks are quite thin, dont want to sand them too much Now it really feels like a boat!
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Installing final planks. Gaps for remaining plank have a bit different width, so on one side I will have two thin planks based on regular strips, and one other side - one plank made from a wider strip. Shaped that strip, bit after soaking it obviously become larger and do not fit into the gap anymore. Another illustration why one shoild never glue soaked planks :
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Thanks, Chuck! Really looking forward for a hull "birth", when it would be sanded and frame fillers removed
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Installed gardboard planks. That was quite easy, but more time-consuming then regular planks. Result on a "good" side: Gap for remaining planks is quite consistent, looks ok. And here is the other, "bad" side. Planks are overtapered on this side. The gap is widening closer to the front part of the hull. Will try to slowly fill it by a weirdly shaped remaining planks, let's see if it is fixable, or I will need to tear down the whole side of the ship and re-plank.
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Sorry for interrupting, just to finish the discussions about various kit versions. Just got my BB720 kit, with wooden shields. That's what inside: Wooden shields, really nice one: Plywood bulkheads, plywood looks really low quality, but not warped. Let's see how it will behave: Bow decorations, they are laser burnt, really good quality, no burn marks. You can paint it any way you want.
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You have the best Vasa build I ever saw! Jattebra! Well, maybe except a crazy guy who scratchbuilt Vasa using same technology as for original ship
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Slowly moving, not sanding the hull yet (sonce planks are really small), so sorry for bad surface and glue stains. One side looks ok, while other side is too much bent. Was always trying to keep the hull symmetrical, but failed. Probably its not fixable, except replanking from the scratch. Any kind of stealer plank would be too visible. But now I gained a lot of experience how to plank it. Maybe strip it totally, remove all planks and plank with boxwood, because now I know how? Good side: Bad side:
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Now I dry fit soaked planks using a paper clips, they dry overnight, and next evening I glue them. One pair of planks per day, but turned out to be easier then bending and drying! Dont forget to put some scrapmpieces between the clip and the plank, otherwise it will leave an ugly traces. Soaked basswood is much softer then I thought
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In a meanwhile, added a third planking level and made a base for a slipway-style model stand. It would be painted black and I will add some diagonal supports for the boat when the planking would be completed. Still not sure how that stand will look in reality, so maybe there would be a second iteration.
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