Mike Y
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Everything posted by Mike Y
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There are also similar products for nail polishing, but they all have a fixed size chuck. Of course, the power of such tool would be really low, so you can't drill any hardwood or press it. But, hey, it's a tiny drill anyway, that will break if you try to use power on it..
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Looking for a mini mini drill, to make a tiny holes in planking. Dremel is a bit too heavy for it, I'm afraid of breaking the drill bit while holding it. Ideally it should be powered by AA battery or two. I found some engravers that looks exactly like I need, but it's not possible to put a tiny 0.3-0.5mm drill bit in it, they don't have any chuck. Would appreciate any hints!
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Probably the easiest way would be to find a photos of original planking. I tried to google them, looks not easy really Was in Sjöhistoriska museet this weekend, unfortunately they have no good yacht models or photos. The one they have are made with a solid hull, no planking. But they have a quite big archive, maybe you can send a query? -
Bob, your model is one of the cutiest! If you dont mind, can I steal your treenail pattern? It is the best!
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Slowpoke detected, it is me! I was sure that MS pinnace is the same as MS longboat, but without masts. MS website promise that lengtth is equal. But, no! I had a growing suspicion, hey, longboats in other build logs looks shorter then mine, thy is it soooooo long? It looks like Pinnace is a stretched longboat, 24 frames instead of 16. Which gives me around thousand treenails, if i use "two treenails per frame per plank" pattern. That is a hell lot of toothpics! But looks like I have no choice. Sanding cant fix all planking mistakes, if you dont want to have a holes in the hull: Wide stealer plank is better then two thin straler planks, but worse then a properly precalculated evenly sized planks
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Bob, you are right. I just decided to drop that "false transom", don't like how it looks Also, since the "natural color" of basswood turned out to be quite pale, and different planks have different colors - will stain it a bit.
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For a newbie, what is special in "Hahn method"? I read a number of build logs. it looks like any other admirality style model. Well, yes, you use a jig and start building upside down, but probably there is something else that I totally miss.
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Yahoo! Finished the hull planking! Looks ugly before sanding: (Yes, wood is of different color, no more basswood!) But much better after sanding: Final sanding would be done after a treenails imitation. Planks are quite thin, dont want to sand them too much Now it really feels like a boat!
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Installing final planks. Gaps for remaining plank have a bit different width, so on one side I will have two thin planks based on regular strips, and one other side - one plank made from a wider strip. Shaped that strip, bit after soaking it obviously become larger and do not fit into the gap anymore. Another illustration why one shoild never glue soaked planks :
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Thanks, Chuck! Really looking forward for a hull "birth", when it would be sanded and frame fillers removed
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Installed gardboard planks. That was quite easy, but more time-consuming then regular planks. Result on a "good" side: Gap for remaining planks is quite consistent, looks ok. And here is the other, "bad" side. Planks are overtapered on this side. The gap is widening closer to the front part of the hull. Will try to slowly fill it by a weirdly shaped remaining planks, let's see if it is fixable, or I will need to tear down the whole side of the ship and re-plank.
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Jaha! Thanks!
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By the way, what shop do you mean? I'm quite new in Stockholm, would appreciate any hints!I only know Materialbutiken on Södermalm, they have some wood and tools, but they are quite universal. Is there a better shop, more focused on modelling?
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Hm, maybe we have a different defitions of "plywood". In my kit, shields are on a single-layer sheet of some wood, there is no other layers and no glue. They are quite thin, 1.5mm probably.
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Sorry for interrupting, just to finish the discussions about various kit versions. Just got my BB720 kit, with wooden shields. That's what inside: Wooden shields, really nice one: Plywood bulkheads, plywood looks really low quality, but not warped. Let's see how it will behave: Bow decorations, they are laser burnt, really good quality, no burn marks. You can paint it any way you want.
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You have the best Vasa build I ever saw! Jattebra! Well, maybe except a crazy guy who scratchbuilt Vasa using same technology as for original ship
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Slowly moving, not sanding the hull yet (sonce planks are really small), so sorry for bad surface and glue stains. One side looks ok, while other side is too much bent. Was always trying to keep the hull symmetrical, but failed. Probably its not fixable, except replanking from the scratch. Any kind of stealer plank would be too visible. But now I gained a lot of experience how to plank it. Maybe strip it totally, remove all planks and plank with boxwood, because now I know how? Good side: Bad side:
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Now I dry fit soaked planks using a paper clips, they dry overnight, and next evening I glue them. One pair of planks per day, but turned out to be easier then bending and drying! Dont forget to put some scrapmpieces between the clip and the plank, otherwise it will leave an ugly traces. Soaked basswood is much softer then I thought
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In a meanwhile, added a third planking level and made a base for a slipway-style model stand. It would be painted black and I will add some diagonal supports for the boat when the planking would be completed. Still not sure how that stand will look in reality, so maybe there would be a second iteration.
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Don't mind a bit dirty hull, I will remove the glue traces and sand the hull later, when it would be completed. Also, thanks BobF for a nice way of making a plank bending templates - attach the sticky tape to the previous plank, paint the pencil line like you are simulating the caulking, bend the plank according to that template:
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It was trickier then expected If you just put the top plank into the bow "slot", then it's just going vertical, without following the hull shape: To make planks follow the shape of the hull, I lifted to top plank a bit higher on the bow, and tapered the second plank. In hindsight it's pretty obvious, no matter how you bend the planks, they should be tapered. But I was too much following the instructions, and surprised that it was not mentioned there (or I was not reading carefully?) So that's how the bow looks like when second plank tapered and first plank lifted higher (it's just halfway inserted into the bow slot): The second plank was also a bit tapered on the stern:
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Aha! Ok, will relax and cut off the poking pieces of top frame after planking Thanks for a quick reply!
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Started a planking, found a problem. The first frame (K) looks mounted too high. The top plank do not follow a smooth curve. On a drawings there is no sign of a higher front frame, so I thought that I did not inserted it on a full length while glueing. But then I checked the photos in a manual, page 5 (top and left photos), and they also show the front frame mounted higher then next frames. If you draw a plank line on a sticky tape, front frame creates an ugly step: If I want a plank to make a smooth curve - then top frame pokes a bit and should be shortened. Not a big deal, I do not think it would be bad for the hull, but want to doublecheck before cutting. Chuck, I would appreciate your advice, what is a better option? Or am I really made a serious mistakes and glued the front frame higher then it should be?
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Your "simplified" variant is much more elegant then the "original" one! Colors are brighter, and that weird transom on original boat that looks like it should fall off if you accidentally step on it Weird question, but did you ever considered designing a beginner-level models, like for kids? Something that you can use to introduce a 10yr old kid to modelling, but instead of using a cheap chinese crap - you pay twice more, but get a well thought through kit, that is a pleasure to build?
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