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Mike Y

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Everything posted by Mike Y

  1. Mike Y
    The sanding drums come in different grits, so you can use the fine one. Sorry, that's the only picture I managed to google, with a coarse grit But yes, they are to remove most of the material, while the final polish is always manual.
  2. Mike Y
    That drum sanders for dremel do the same thing, very handy:
  3. Mike Y
    Sand them away with a rotary tool, trim edges with a knife, remove remainings of the glue with water or alcohol, depends on type of a glue? Should work nicely!
  4. Mike Y
    Wow! What kind of a glue do you use? And how do you prevent the hull from warping when wet? Planks will expand, and then leave the gaps when dried. Or there is a trick to prevent that? Looking forward to see the video of first voyage, and more detailed photos! Incredibly interesting project!
  5. Mike Y
    Just out of curiosity - if you apply the poly to frames now, how can you sand the internal side of the hull later? Or you will skip that step?
  6. Mike Y
    Wow, the nose filler looks really good!
  7. Mike Y
    Killed around 10hr on inboard panels, and not sure if they make things nicer or not. Probably, I should have definitely skipped the panels on the rear part of the ship. Very hard to get a proper precision with such small things. Even if they are nice on micro scale, under magnifier, on a larger scale panels are not perfectly aligned together: Also finished a rudder tiller. It have two pieces - carved part and turned part glued together. I am very happy with boxwood, so strong wood and so easy to carve! On that photo, one cell is 5mm (1/6 inches): Now will try to cover all that small particles with wipe-on poly and install to the model.
  8. Mike Y
    Grant, Ian, oh yes! It is a new amazing skill, I never thought that wood could be that solid.
  9. Mike Y
    Started interior panels. Feeling like a jewlery master, they are sooooo small! I cant make it without a magnifying glass, any attempt to photo them without it fails. Boxwood behaves perfectly, no splitting, no cracking, and tweezers do not leave any traces on it! That is how one panel looks through a magnifying glass: 2.5 hours later, and I just installed bottom parts for all panels on one side of the boat... Looking forward for a weird weekend I wonder how I was supposed to make them with a basswood from the kit? Tried it, just for fun, it is close to impossible, the wood grains are too big.
  10. Mike Y
    Received a boxwood upgrade package from HobbyMill! Technically speaking, it is for longboat (next build), but it has three big sheets of different thickness, and I milled a few strips from 1/32 sheet to make a nice decorations for my pinnace. Newly purchased table saw from Proxxon helped with it, surprisingly decent accuracy if push the sheet accurately without twisting. It is far from being a precise machinery, but for $120 it is more then good! I tried to make a moulded strips for interior panels, but can't get an accurate edge on basswood strips. You can see it on thwarts, mould looks crappy. Totally different story with boxwood! It is my first experience with it, and I am totally happy! Nice color, very solid, holds a nice edge, now I see why it is so popular! Sorry for a bad photo, that is the best I can get with an iphone camera... Let's see how the result will look like! Now I can't whine about bad wood anymore
  11. Mike Y
    Dave, thanks for explanation! I now carefully re-read related chapter in Hahn's book (ships of american revolution and their models), indeed, frames are double-layered.
  12. Mike Y
    Pardon for a really stupid question, but what is the benefit of glueing together two thin wood sheets instead of using a sheet of double thickness? And it is not a mistake, you ordered the wood milled to that thickness, just trying to understand the method.
  13. Mike Y
    Be careful though, lots of fraud there... Make sure you can rollback the transaction if you will receive fake junk instead of ordered item.
  14. Mike Y
    132 USD in http://www.aliexpress.com/item/24V-500mm-stroke-lift-column-Telescopic-Pillars/1580588570.html, for example. Plus shipping, that could be organized through various resellers. And lots of lots in a 300 USD range. But you are right, it's definitely not a cheap solution.
  15. Mike Y
    Tables are expensive, but the lifting mechanism itself is not expensive and could be ordered from China easilly.
  16. Mike Y
    AON, have you looked on a lifting mechanisms for office tables? Much better solution then a system of pulleys. Google "office lifting table", you can buy the "legs" with motors and controller separately from the table itself. I have one of those in the office, quite a handy thing. Handles a big weight, even if the weight is located on one side of the table.
  17. Mike Y
    Thanks Erik, Nils and Robin! Stuntflyer, thanks, will try that cloth.
  18. Mike Y
    Poly dried overnight, and I got back home early enough to make a few photos with a natural light. Looks so much better! Good effect of a poly, it is now a bit glossy, but not too much. Just enough! Plus it mechanically protects paint layer. But I wonder how to apply it properly, without a cloth that leaves a fibre particles that are stuck in a sticky poly. Or maybe a proper poly is not that sticky? Sorry for lots of photos. But hey, good build log should have more photos then words, right?
  19. Mike Y
    Interesting deck planking pattern, with surprisingly narrow deck planks. Is it purely for aesthetic reasons, or such planking is more practical on a yacht? The paint looks great, nice glossy effect!
  20. Mike Y
    Applied wipe-on poly. I used an optic cleaning microfiber cloth to apply the poly. But still got lots of small particles from that cloth, poly is very very sticky. Is there some special cloth for wipe-on poly, or minwax poly that everybody use is not so sticky?
  21. Mike Y
    That looks like a weights from the knitting machine! Instead of clamping, it's better to bevel frames, to have a proper contact between deck and the frame. Also, the frame in the middle of your photo is significantly lower then the one on right side of the photo, if you clamp it down, deck would be bent. Is it desired? Or maybe it's just an effect on a photo?
  22. Mike Y
    Mark, Floyd, thanks for a warm words! Also I have a plan to build a Longboat with boxwood, waiting for a parcel from HobbyMill to arrive. Hope to use all experience with Pinnace to build a Longboat close to perfection
  23. Mike Y
    Thanks Chuck! Finished caprails, and finally painted everything. This time I mixed the paint with a bit of water, so it was more liquid. I was very very paranoid to avoid the paint stains, so covered everything that should not be painted with a masking tape: Next lesson - instead of smoothing the surface, paint highlight all imperfections and a wood grains. Since on a basswood I could not remove the hairy wood fibers even with scratching or 1200grit paper - now I see lots of them And turned out that I did a poor sanding job on internal planking, it is far from being sanded flush. Shame, truly a shame, but to fix it - will need to remove lots of paint, and it would turn the model into a messy thing. So - next time, on a next model. Better sand more then less. Tomorrow, when paint would be completely dry, will add a layer of wipe-on poly, maybe that will hide some nasty wood fibers.
  24. Mike Y
    Finished one caprail. Turned out to be unexpectedly tricky to make a proper templates, so I just glued a Big Ugly Something and then sanded it down to name it a caprail. As you can see, right caprail looks legit, left one is just a piece of wood: Remined me of a childhood, when I was locked up in a summer house for a month, and was so bored that made a solid hull ship about 25cm long, carved from a single piece of wood using one chisel and a sharp knife (that were the only tools available, apart from the garden shovel and a hammer). It is just a matter of time required to sand... Speaking of mistakes, now a bit incorrectly aligned frame is very visible, one side of the hull have a wrong shape. Unfixable on a current phase of the build. Always always align your frames perfectly! Lesson learnt. Chuck, do you recommend to cover a panted parts with a wipe-on poly? Is poly compatible with acrylic paints like Galeria that I use on your advice?
  25. Mike Y
    Swedish follower asked about paint and polish brands, here is what I used: Stain was mixed with water, 2 parts of stain for 3 parts of water. Poly was used as is, one coat, applied with micro fiber cloth (same as used to clean the glasses, it do not leave any fibers)

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