Mike Y
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Everything posted by Mike Y
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Don't mind a bit dirty hull, I will remove the glue traces and sand the hull later, when it would be completed. Also, thanks BobF for a nice way of making a plank bending templates - attach the sticky tape to the previous plank, paint the pencil line like you are simulating the caulking, bend the plank according to that template:
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It was trickier then expected If you just put the top plank into the bow "slot", then it's just going vertical, without following the hull shape: To make planks follow the shape of the hull, I lifted to top plank a bit higher on the bow, and tapered the second plank. In hindsight it's pretty obvious, no matter how you bend the planks, they should be tapered. But I was too much following the instructions, and surprised that it was not mentioned there (or I was not reading carefully?) So that's how the bow looks like when second plank tapered and first plank lifted higher (it's just halfway inserted into the bow slot): The second plank was also a bit tapered on the stern:
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Aha! Ok, will relax and cut off the poking pieces of top frame after planking Thanks for a quick reply!
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Started a planking, found a problem. The first frame (K) looks mounted too high. The top plank do not follow a smooth curve. On a drawings there is no sign of a higher front frame, so I thought that I did not inserted it on a full length while glueing. But then I checked the photos in a manual, page 5 (top and left photos), and they also show the front frame mounted higher then next frames. If you draw a plank line on a sticky tape, front frame creates an ugly step: If I want a plank to make a smooth curve - then top frame pokes a bit and should be shortened. Not a big deal, I do not think it would be bad for the hull, but want to doublecheck before cutting. Chuck, I would appreciate your advice, what is a better option? Or am I really made a serious mistakes and glued the front frame higher then it should be?
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Your "simplified" variant is much more elegant then the "original" one! Colors are brighter, and that weird transom on original boat that looks like it should fall off if you accidentally step on it Weird question, but did you ever considered designing a beginner-level models, like for kids? Something that you can use to introduce a 10yr old kid to modelling, but instead of using a cheap chinese crap - you pay twice more, but get a well thought through kit, that is a pleasure to build?
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Speaking of a wood dust - what kind of a mask is most effective against it? I have a problem with a wood dust while sanding - coughing after that, dust in a nose, etc. Sometimes you even feel it next morning. So some mask would be definitely useful.
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Temporarily switched to a side project (small English pinnace by Model Shipways ). Will come back to SF2 build after a month or so.
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Made a simple, but practical tool that helps to align frames properly. Lego allows you to build some small helping constructions that are quite strong, parallel and easy to modify on a fly. This is the dry fitting phase, so don't mind that frames are not aligned yet. I align one frame, glue it, then go to the next one. It's also easy to control the horizontal alignment: And the perpendicularity to the keel: The lego frame slides tightly along the building construction. Result of a first evening (nevermind the bush cricket on a background, as I said I share that table ):
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First of all, such nice boat requires a solid, but light dock. I don't have a dedicated space for modelling, so I share the table with my kid, and need to quickly rollout all my stuff and then hide it back: Tapered the false keel, and also a bit tapered the real keel (just for a sake of beauty):
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First of all, thanks to Chuck for designing that amazing kit. It's really a pleasure to build, everything is so well thought through! Especially after AL kit, not so well designed and with idiotic instructions If you care not only about the result, but a relaxing process - then buy that kit, you would not regret. The kit content quite standard - manual, laser cut details, various basswood strips for planking: End result should look as close to this teaser as possible: What's in between? Let's look in the manual: No, really not, the manual is the best I ever saw, you can take a look here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6432389/Pinnace/MS1458-Pinnace-Instructions.pdf I do not plan to make any interesting adjustments to the build, but will try to build it as accurate as I can. So maybe it would be interesting to beginners, nothing more. Would appreciate any kind of feedback and advices from a more experienced builders!
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That thingy looks like a perfect candidate to be a hidden easter egg button, that turns on some electronic circuit deep inside the ship
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Found it, Nazgul made a great photo, copy from his buildlog: There are some stealer planks right on a head (bow) of the hull. It is still not clear enough, because its really dark under Vasa. Need a strong flashlight to make a clear photo. Maybe you can use some photoshop magic there. But it is quite visible when you see it in reality.
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Not only that plank, there are 5-6 planks like that in each side. There was a website with a hundred photos of Vasa from museum, cant find it...
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Actually sometimes the real planks end like a sharp points. I was really surprised when I saw how Vasa planked Take a look on the bottom part
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That is the finest pinnace I ever saw!
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Thanks for your interest, Keith! Of course I soaked planks first and then used an iron on a high temp to bend them. This mahogany is quite thick and hard, its impossible to bend it without soaking and heating Also bought a sealing iron, but it works only with 110v power source, and power converters for that wattage are quite expensive. And then it turned out that a regular clothing iron also does the job pretty well Can sell the sealing iron if somebody needs it really. About finishes - will use an acrylic transparent matte paint, already tried it on a deck and some samples, looks quite ok. Decided not to use oil, because it will highlight the difference between different planks, that mahogany strips in the kit are a bit different from each other on a grain and color.
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Keith, thanks for info! Luckily, my keel is not warped (yet), maybe because it is quite thick, or because I glued the decks already (so they add some strength).
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Vivian, thanks! Just a bit of warning - contact the seller and agree that they can provide more planks if number of planks in the box is too low. According to my rough calculations, you need around 40-45 planks on each side, so you need something like 80-90 planks for a ship. AL gives you just 70 (according to item list), which is a really tight number, you cant afford to break planks or throw away the scraps. And mahogany is brittle and can break while bending. It is very frustrating, good reason to consider other kit if its one of your first builds. And I'm not the only one with that issue, I saw similar frustration in some other logs too.
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Jesse, thanks a lot for your suggestions! They are really valuable. Didnt thought about hull warping, it could be a problem. Will plank symmetrically next time.
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Watching with interest! Does Britannia build going to be more advanced then the previous one (Endeavour)?
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Hi Erik, nice to see you
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Also, Vasa museum have an amazing book written by Fred Hocker, their head of research. Fantastic illustrations and context. For shipbuilders they sell a set of high quality detailed drawings for an extremely low price (100kr) That could be a must have set for all Vasa builders!
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Indeed, you are right. I recognized it too late. But also I used nails for real, to hold the planks So now I hammer nails deeper during sanding, which takes a lot of time.. Casey, thanks! Yes, AL is a bit dissappointing. I did not wasted any planks, every small broken piece is used for small planks in the top part of the hull, above waterline. And still, there are just not enough planks. But, well, its a cheap kit after all.
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Finished planking of one side. It was a lot of experience, which is clearly visible on a hull. First planks has bigger gaps and less accurate fit. Finished hull looks quite nice, there are some small gaps and imperfections, and I really hope I can smoothen them by sanding. Lets see when the entire hull would be completed Lesson learnt, it is really extremely imporant to properly shape the bulkheads, next time I will do some temporarily planking to make sure that bulkheads are forming a smooth line. There are some "pits" on a hull that are simply incorrectly shaped bulkhead. Well, thats what experience is! Now switching to MS longboat (pinnace) as a side project, need to have a rest from bending & sanding of the majogany planks...
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