Mike Y

Once frame is roughly shaped/sanded, pilling off template was very easy with a little help of a water to soften the glue...


Rising wood filling piece was also made and installed on the keel..



Does not quite fit properly so replacement will be made but the main concept is the same..


Floor timber chocks also assembled...


Frame assembly progress.... hardly waiting for a final sanding to give it a nice shape...



Main supervisor arrived after spending Christmas break...



Happy modelling..

A little bit of a progress ...

Created (updated) building board a bit, decided to use double-tape to hold the keel in place; so far works ok..


Lego parts were returned to the original owner after huge fight and lots off tears and replaced with regular wood scrap... same idea here as well, few layer of double tape to hold the keel ..
 

Stern solid filling timber was giving me some hard time and after two failed attempts and following practicum steps, I managed to get it correct with some extra wood for further, final shaping..

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Happy modelling..

Pegasus back in the workshop due to the imminent completion of Winchelsea.
Its nice to see her again. 6th rate and a 5th rate - maybe I need to build a 4th rate to make a set?
 

Thanks Andy and John. 🙂
About joinery, I have found out there is no shortcut to a perfect joint. It's down to time, patience and perseverance...
 
So, another wee update before other shores and priorities takes precedence over scale model boat building. (they say it's Xmas time. Really? Already?)
Mast partner, or in layman terms, the hole where the mast pokes through the deck. A delicate little piece whit not much "meat" on it. 
I short - found a blank, drilled an appropriate sized hole (13,5mm) and trimmed it to fit. Whacked it in place with some diluted glue and chiseled/sanded flush to the deck beam.
Mast making then. Actually I did the mast first to se if the hole should be centered in the opening, which it should be.
The usual way, square stock planed to an octagon, planed even further and finally sanded. Care taken so to not sand too much.
Sounds easy enough. Of course mast making got me thinking. This was not my last mast or spar to build so better do some planning ahead.
Found and old shooting board that I don't use. Planed the underside flat and beautified it with some tung oil.
Next guides for the stock. Made these removable if I ever need it as a shooting board again and also to fit shorter guides if necessare. With the stock raised slightly over the board it is easy to grab and turn the stock while planing.
Next question - how to do the square or octagon shape if the mast has one. The main mast on Atlantica is octagon shaped at its lower section.
A small giuding block solved that and a long file which makes it easier to aim a somewhat horizontal face while filing.
 






Someday I will get rid of all the clutter in my shop. Some day...
 
Happy Holidays and Very Merry Christmas to you all!

Beautiful!
Are you bevelling the edges of the planks before or after the installation? What is your technique for that?

The model is getting more difficult!
 
Below is a pic of the soil pipe discharge from the quarter gallery that David Antscherl included in his model of the HMS Comet
I note it is a direct run and not to the dangling ornament.
How was it plumbed for a two or three decker?
I'll keep looking.

I added the transom knees which are present on the actual ship.

Well i have done the 3 frames as promised. So thats it for a while.

No  but its its correct. It looks bigger than it  is because of the way Hahn  constructs the model. 2” off the top is removed.

Headwork continued progress.
 

After preparing the part, it is necessary to weld:
 

To give it its final shape, I used an old, suitably shaped iron plate

I continue with the long work on the preventer plates: I thought I would take a photographic step-by-step that I hope will be useful:
 
I used ordinary 1 mm brass wire:

Continue:
 










 

Although the extremely important wreck of a mid-16th century seagoing ship built in the Basque region of Spain has already been studied in great detail and presented to the public in the comprehensive, multi-volume monograph The Underwater Archaeology Red Bay. Basque Shipbuilding and Whaling in the 16th Century, published by Parcs Canada in 2007, nevertheless, the following presentation will not be a repetition of the material contained therein, but rather to complement certain omissions or even a different interpretation of this archaeological find. In a nutshell, the aim of this exercise is to recreate and present the method of designing a ship in terms of its geometrical conception, an issue that is fundamental to naval architecture and yet so little understood today for the early modern period.
 
Somewhat retrospectively, it can already be said that the Red Bay Vessel is an example of the then classic proportion as, dos, tres (breadth : keel length : total length = 1 : 2 : 3), recommended by authors of numerous works of the period, and applied in this particular case in a very literal, astonishingly precise manner.
 
Apart from the main proportions of the ship, no less important from the point of view of the history of naval architecture is the method used to form the shape of the hull, and taking into account its specific details. In this ship, one of the widespread Mediterranean methods of hull forming was used, which, nota bene, was also adopted at about this time in England, and was still used there in its generic form in the first decades of the 17th century, before being creatively developed into the more sophisticated ways generally referred to today as English moulding.
 
 

Archaeological model of the wreck of San Juan, the Basque whaling ship, scale 1:10 (Parcs Canada)
 
 
 
Shapes of the ship's hull reproduced by applying the found method of designing the vessel:
 

 

 

 
 
In addition to the monograph of the wreck itself, which may be not available to everyone, much interesting material regarding the hull structure of the shipwreck can also be found in the provided below publication by Robert Grenier, The Basque whaling ship from Red Bay, 2001 (public domain).
 
Grenier Robert - The basque whaling ship from Red Bay - 2001.pdf
 
 
 

Sanding, sanding, sanding and more sanding.... nothing interesting to report... still working on frames... final sanding to come..


To break a routine, and to keep this build interested (and not to jump on Xebec' kit), started to work on fashion pieces.... 

They are attached to the ship but with some final sanding done in a later stages...

Then I started to work on stern solid filling timber... made out of three pieces.. This piece requires lots of carving so proper position of a template on the wood is crucial for easy carving and good results.






OK, now, time for few more frames..

Happy modelling.

Beautiful!
Are you bevelling the edges of the planks before or after the installation? What is your technique for that?

Beautiful!
Are you bevelling the edges of the planks before or after the installation? What is your technique for that?

Greetings Fellow Modelers.  Thanks for the "thumbs up" and for stopping by.
 
 
 
Hey Keith - no I don't turn them on very often at all.  And actually, once I finish a model, I rarely even look it again except in passing.  The fun was in the building, and I don't need to see things I wish I'd done differently.  A few years ago, I started building small shadowbox scenes where lighting is important, and I've carried some of that over into fishing boats.  It's pretty quick and easy to do so - why not.  And I have noticed that casual model viewers seem to really get a kick out of it.
 
Whaleback -part 1
 
In the context of an Eastern-rig dragger, the whaleback is an elevated bow structure that provides a measure of protection for the crew when working the open deck in heavy weather.  The structure also adds storage space on the main deck for spare gear such as netting, chafing and roller gear, twine, cable, etc.  A whaleback was typically only built on larger draggers and sometimes mid-sized boats like the Pelican.  In the drawing below, the perimeter of the whaleback is high-lighted in blue. The aft wall sections (darker blue) are what I'll be modeling in this post along with the companionway doghouse outlined in green.
 

 

 
 
I began with the small walled in section that extends aft of the main storage space and butts up to the backside of the companionway doghouse.  There is no passage between these two structures.  Entry into this space is through the main storage area of the whaleback only.  It is a rather curious little space where the crew stored the deck chairs and chilled bottles of chardonnay – or not.  Joking aside, in subsequent years this spot held the fuel tank for the galley below, presumably kerosene.  I'm a bit surprised that this boat in the mid 1940s was still using coal for this purpose.
 
Anyway, I drew up the wall sections and glued pre-stained siding to the template and cut them free.
 
Like all things in boat model building, nothing is square, level or straight.  This structure leans toward the bow mirroring the sheer.
 

 

 
 
The main wall framing is drawn up with its lower edge conforming to the crown of the deck.  The top of the wall will be a landing spot for the roof and is more severely domed.
 

 
The wall is constructed and the previous assembly glued to it.
 

 
 
The partition needs planking.
 


 
 
And the walls need doors.  These doorways are short and potential head bangers, about 4’4” (132cm).
 

 

 
 
The doors (and everything else) were brush painted with Tamiya flat white acrylic with a touch of red and yellow to warm it just a bit.  The hinges came out of my junk box without packaging but are undoubtedly from Grandt Line.  They're painted with Testors “flat steel” enamel and rust colored pigment powder was daubed on while still wet.  The latch bracket is blackened .01” (.25mm) brass.
 

 

 
 
Painted and glued together.
 

 
 
Someone left the starboard door unlatched.
 

 
 
The companionway doghouse is drawn and assembled using up wood strip scraps.
 

 
 
The structure has two small portholes with 8” dia. openings made from slide fit brass tubing slices.
 

 
 
The outer tubing has a thicker sidewall and pretends to be a mounting flange.  The holes in the siding that accept the lights were drilled through first and expanded with a tapered file, then test fit.
 

 
 
The doorway threshold stands 12” (30.5cm) above deck to keep storm water from cascading down the companionway.  The structure has 12” wide vertical boards attached to the doorway corners at an angle of about 45 degrees.  Their purpose is unknown to me, but because it’s a two-piece center opening door, I suspect they act as stops and keep the hinges from being torn off in windy conditions.  Also, they are tapered at the bottom to reduce trip hazard.  Speaking of trip hazard, the wire rope cables leading to the forward gallows frames cross inches from these boards about ten inches above the deck (see drawing at top of post.)
 

 
 
The structure gets paint, the portholes are glued in, and a small piece of microscope cover slip glass is attached to the backside for glazing.  The glass is 0.13mm thick.  The brass portholes were only blackened long enough to take the shine off, and the outer ring was left a little proud to represent a surface mounted flange.
 

 
 
The door is constructed.  It is 26” (66cm) wide by 58” (147cm) tall.
 

 
 
Grab irons are made from .02” (.5mm) phosphor bronze wire treated with Jax Flemish Grey.  The pipe flange wall mounts are injection molded washer/nut sets from TichyTrain.  I filed most of the nut off and drilled them out.  Chrome enamel paint.
 

 
 
The chipped and missing paint on the siding is achieved by applying cellophane tape and then ripping it off like an old bandage.  I burnish the tape down with a fingernail in areas where I want more of the paint removed.  By staining all the wood prior to painting, this process reveals wood that looks aged. 
 

 
 
Soldered railings.  Again, phosphor bronze wire.  This stuff won’t sag as easily as brass will.
 

 

 

 
 
Placed on but not glued to the boat. 
 

 
 
After it is permanently attached, I’ll add base trim.
 

 
Next comes the roof (or would that be deck?) and a bunch of other stuff.
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Be safe and stay well.
 
Gary
 

I continue planking and nailing the hull. All that remains is to glue the last 4 planks and make the final sanding.      

Hello everyone,

There is some minor progress to report on the model and some planning considerations on how to proceed, where perhaps this or that person has an additional idea?
The deck above the already completed lower cabin of the battery deck has been laid and some thoughts on the further planning of the side galleries have been sketched.
 

 

 

 
It's slowly getting cozy down there...
I looked for references for the further development of the captain's cabin and unfortunately didn't find much.
There is a contemporary painting of an English captain on board the HMS Nottingham (60 guns) from 1742, the year the TRE KRONER was built, painted by William Hogarth:
 
 

 
Here you can see that the wall paneling is quite elaborately decorated. Fluted flat columns and gilded carved capitals can be seen in the background. Between the stern windows, you can see the surrounding molded panels that also divide the rows of windows on the outside of the TRE KRONER.
 

 
In my opinion, the cabin was relatively elaborate and of high quality, whereas later examples are rather simpler. The cost of ship decorations was continually reduced throughout the 18th century, this applies to the exterior decoration and presumably also to the interior.
There is a detailed section through the Danish ship of the line Sophie-Magdalena from 1727, where a similar decoration is shown:
 

 
In Stockholm there is also the original paneling of the Amphion from 1778, a little too young and perhaps already influenced by classicism, but the elements are similar.
 

 
I made a drawing and put the Danish King Christian VI on the wall, what do you think?
 

Best regards,
Matthias
 

Just finished up the bench lockers. I really enjoyed making them

Mike

Although time has been limited for me for working on the model, I have been making progress.   I have finalized the way I will do the deadeye strops and chainplates.   These are all laser cut and makes life a lot easier.  Once designed the actual construction time was non-existent.   It took seconds to add the strops.  
 
This was just a test run but an improved version of those I developed for the Winnie.  They really do just slip right on.
 

There will be two sizes of deadeyes and strops.  The chainplates will all be the same more or less.  They are laser cut and 1/16" wide and about the thickness of was brass straps would have been.  You must do a little bit of work on the straps but not much.  The hole for the little brass pin must be drilled through the bottom of the strap.  I used a "67 drill bit.  Its acrylic so this was so much easier than drilling through brass.  At the top of the strap there is a little "hook" shaped on the end.  This will fit into the bottom of the strop after the deadeye is placed on the channel.  The width is 1/16" as I mentioned which is a tad wide for the hook to fit in the strop bottom.  So this was filed narrower on both sides.  This was done just at the "hooked" part of the strap which fits into the strop which you can see above.  They are cut from black acrylic so no need to blacken but you may want to weather them a bit to "metalize" them in appearance.
 
This is what they will ultimately look like on this sectional model which was really fun to make of the Speedwell.  The deadeyes are my new resin 3D printed ones.  These are the color of Swiss Pear.  I will be using these on my model.  You can see how nicely the straps and strops worked out. Also have a look at those molding strips on this sectional model.   The fancy molding.  This was a new test and also laser cut.  I will be using them on the sectional model projects.


The inboard side.   The entire sectional test is completed.  I just have to add and rig one cannon.  That was the whole purpose of this mini-model.  It is to be used to help teach building techniques for cannon carriages and the their rigging.   My local club members in NJ will be using it as a quick and hopefully fun group build as a tech session taught by me.  It should be fun.  There will also be some gun crew figures added.   

This is a close up of the molding test.  I know how some guys hate creating scrapers to make their own molding.  This will save the guys a lot of time.  I am thinking about offering these as stand along optional moldings for the big project as well.  Or for any model really.  There are three profiles.   1/16", 3/32" and 1/8" wide.   All three are 1/32" thick.   They are laser cut on Syrenite.  They can be used as is but I do recommend sanding the top and bottom edges to soften them and round them off.  Although the color as is looks great.  I like to enhance it by wiping some Gel Stain on them and then wiping it off.   It settles into the grooves and help highlight the profile.  It deepened the color a bit as well.  You know...just like I handle making the carved resin figurehead and stern figures look like boxwood.   It takes about 2 minutes to do.  Then wipe off the excess.   The more coats the deeper the color depending on your preference.  I think folks might like the option to buy these molding strips regardless of the project.  So expect soon.   But let me know if you are interested as I wont waste material and time if there is little interest.  Volutes and scrolls should be easy to add to this line of products as well although every model uses a different size scroll-work.  So maybe I have to thing about that.  It can also be painted and as I said sanded easily.