Mike Y

I know I am an overthinker...
 
What things to keep in mind when storing some milled wood (mostly sheets) indoors, room temperature? To avoid rot, insects infection, turning grey, etc? The wood in question is a standard shipmodelling hardwood - pear, castello boxwood, holly, ebony.
Obviously, it is good to keep a semi-constant humidity and temperature, and I found a place matching that criterias.
 
1) What about insects?
2) Maybe it would be good to put some silica gel to absorb extra moisture if the humidity level will go up? Or it will suck moisture from the wood, making it too dry?
3) Better keep it sealed in plastic bags or without plastic?
4) Anything special that I should know about storage of holly? To make sure it will not change its colour and will remain bright white?
 
I know it sounds like paranoia, but really do not want to find that my wood stash is eaten, rotten and holly turned grey. brrr. Nightmare! 

Made a very ugly jig made from plexiglass sheets, to get a straight 90 degrees for all dimensions when gluing the frames.
 

 
Looks working, now I am trying not to rush things and go slowly, one-two frames a day - glue should set, so frame will not get skewed.

Midship frames were easy, now I am in the area of extreme bevels:

 
Thanks to Mr. Hollom, who built his Oliver Cromwell from Hahn's plans and confirmed that these bevels are correct and could be trusted. If you missed his build log and fantastic model - it is here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1883-oliver-cromwellbeavers-prize-by-peter-mr-hollom-148/
 

After pre-beveling frames already look neat!
 
Current status: 20 frames installed, 20 frames produced and drying from the wipe-on-poly right now.

 
Oh, Oliver Cromell have just 40 frames, so I do not need to produce any more, whoo-hoo!
 
 

Mark, it would be fully planked from one side (no poly there) and fully opened from another side (even no wales).
This is the model that I used as a reference:

Interesting news about a lifting tables.
IKEA lowered the price bar, they offer electrical lifting table mechanism (frame, legs, motors, everything, just add a tabletop) for just $400: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50263225/

 
And they also offer a hand-cranked table, same thing but not electrical - $229! http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S49084965/

 
Looks like it is the cheapest way to have a height-adjusted table in your workshop

Interesting news about a lifting tables.
IKEA lowered the price bar, they offer electrical lifting table mechanism (frame, legs, motors, everything, just add a tabletop) for just $400: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50263225/

 
And they also offer a hand-cranked table, same thing but not electrical - $229! http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S49084965/

 
Looks like it is the cheapest way to have a height-adjusted table in your workshop

Midship frames were easy, now I am in the area of extreme bevels:

 
Thanks to Mr. Hollom, who built his Oliver Cromwell from Hahn's plans and confirmed that these bevels are correct and could be trusted. If you missed his build log and fantastic model - it is here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1883-oliver-cromwellbeavers-prize-by-peter-mr-hollom-148/
 

After pre-beveling frames already look neat!
 
Current status: 20 frames installed, 20 frames produced and drying from the wipe-on-poly right now.

 
Oh, Oliver Cromell have just 40 frames, so I do not need to produce any more, whoo-hoo!
 
 

Mark, it would be fully planked from one side (no poly there) and fully opened from another side (even no wales).
This is the model that I used as a reference:

Mark, it would be fully planked from one side (no poly there) and fully opened from another side (even no wales).
This is the model that I used as a reference:

Speaking of a fully framed models - a friend of mine visited an interesting project today - 1:1 reconstruction of Poltava, 1712 ship, partially designed by Russian tsar, Peter I, who studied shipbuilding in Holland. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russian_ship_of_the_line_Poltava_(1712)
The site is located in St.Petersburg, Russia.
Pretty interesting to see, looks very close to that build logs, and nearly-round shape of the hull make it look like Triton
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Why scratch?
I always had a high requirements for a wood quality and fitting quality. Unfortunately, even expensive kits were never that close. After getting a first pack of boxwood, I would never go back to any inferior wood. Hence, only scratch. Not that scary though, I do most of the parts from scratch anyway.
It's a pity that kit producers do not offer a wood upgrade. For a serious build, cost is spreading over a number of years, so is it really so important?
Speed of the build is not important, I enjoy the process. As Remco says - "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime".
 
Why Hahn?
For a weird reason, don't like the realistic framing style, like David Antscherl suggests. First - you don't see anything between frames, and second - uneven spacing and shape of frames make me feel dizzy when I look on them. Physically. I know it sounds weird, but I just can't. So - frames would be spaced evenly, even if it's unrealistic. So what, I'm not adding a rocket engines to my model
Also, Hahn's method for a frame construction looks easier. Yes, the wood usage is higher, but again - why that matters? I will build it for 5 years at least, so paying a bit extra for additional wood is not a problem. And I truly like the design of Hahn's jig!
 
Why Beavers Prize / Oliver Cromwell?
This ship has no honorable history. It was built in 1777 in Philadelphia, started a pretty good career - capturing 7 ships in 3 months after a start - but then was defeated by british HMS Beaver. Was downgraded from 24 cannons to 12, and served remaining time guarding british coast. Died in a hurricane after a number of years, slowly degrading and having a continuous problems with discipline onboard.
But there is something in the lines of that ship that touches me. Look on the model - hull proportions are pretty nice. It's not too high, and not too low, and I was looking for that photos a lot, admiring its beauty:
 

 

Mark, it would be fully planked from one side (no poly there) and fully opened from another side (even no wales).
This is the model that I used as a reference:

Mark, it would be fully planked from one side (no poly there) and fully opened from another side (even no wales).
This is the model that I used as a reference:

If you own a recently purchased Dremel 8050 Rotary Tool, you'll want to know about a recall on it. Turns out it can melt. There is a specific date code range, all of which is explained on this page - http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2015/Robert-Bosch-Tool-Recalls-Dremel-Rotary-Tool/
 
If you bought it new for yourself you may already received a notice, but just in case it was a gift or you got it in some other way you may not have seen the recall.
 
Cheers -
John

took me a moment to look away and spot the others hanging off the shelves!

Midship frames were easy, now I am in the area of extreme bevels:

 
Thanks to Mr. Hollom, who built his Oliver Cromwell from Hahn's plans and confirmed that these bevels are correct and could be trusted. If you missed his build log and fantastic model - it is here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1883-oliver-cromwellbeavers-prize-by-peter-mr-hollom-148/
 

After pre-beveling frames already look neat!
 
Current status: 20 frames installed, 20 frames produced and drying from the wipe-on-poly right now.

 
Oh, Oliver Cromell have just 40 frames, so I do not need to produce any more, whoo-hoo!
 
 

I know I am an overthinker...
 
What things to keep in mind when storing some milled wood (mostly sheets) indoors, room temperature? To avoid rot, insects infection, turning grey, etc? The wood in question is a standard shipmodelling hardwood - pear, castello boxwood, holly, ebony.
Obviously, it is good to keep a semi-constant humidity and temperature, and I found a place matching that criterias.
 
1) What about insects?
2) Maybe it would be good to put some silica gel to absorb extra moisture if the humidity level will go up? Or it will suck moisture from the wood, making it too dry?
3) Better keep it sealed in plastic bags or without plastic?
4) Anything special that I should know about storage of holly? To make sure it will not change its colour and will remain bright white?
 
I know it sounds like paranoia, but really do not want to find that my wood stash is eaten, rotten and holly turned grey. brrr. Nightmare! 

Midship frames were easy, now I am in the area of extreme bevels:

 
Thanks to Mr. Hollom, who built his Oliver Cromwell from Hahn's plans and confirmed that these bevels are correct and could be trusted. If you missed his build log and fantastic model - it is here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1883-oliver-cromwellbeavers-prize-by-peter-mr-hollom-148/
 

After pre-beveling frames already look neat!
 
Current status: 20 frames installed, 20 frames produced and drying from the wipe-on-poly right now.

 
Oh, Oliver Cromell have just 40 frames, so I do not need to produce any more, whoo-hoo!
 
 

Midship frames were easy, now I am in the area of extreme bevels:

 
Thanks to Mr. Hollom, who built his Oliver Cromwell from Hahn's plans and confirmed that these bevels are correct and could be trusted. If you missed his build log and fantastic model - it is here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1883-oliver-cromwellbeavers-prize-by-peter-mr-hollom-148/
 

After pre-beveling frames already look neat!
 
Current status: 20 frames installed, 20 frames produced and drying from the wipe-on-poly right now.

 
Oh, Oliver Cromell have just 40 frames, so I do not need to produce any more, whoo-hoo!
 
 

Midship frames were easy, now I am in the area of extreme bevels:

 
Thanks to Mr. Hollom, who built his Oliver Cromwell from Hahn's plans and confirmed that these bevels are correct and could be trusted. If you missed his build log and fantastic model - it is here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1883-oliver-cromwellbeavers-prize-by-peter-mr-hollom-148/
 

After pre-beveling frames already look neat!
 
Current status: 20 frames installed, 20 frames produced and drying from the wipe-on-poly right now.

 
Oh, Oliver Cromell have just 40 frames, so I do not need to produce any more, whoo-hoo!
 
 

I know I am an overthinker...
 
What things to keep in mind when storing some milled wood (mostly sheets) indoors, room temperature? To avoid rot, insects infection, turning grey, etc? The wood in question is a standard shipmodelling hardwood - pear, castello boxwood, holly, ebony.
Obviously, it is good to keep a semi-constant humidity and temperature, and I found a place matching that criterias.
 
1) What about insects?
2) Maybe it would be good to put some silica gel to absorb extra moisture if the humidity level will go up? Or it will suck moisture from the wood, making it too dry?
3) Better keep it sealed in plastic bags or without plastic?
4) Anything special that I should know about storage of holly? To make sure it will not change its colour and will remain bright white?
 
I know it sounds like paranoia, but really do not want to find that my wood stash is eaten, rotten and holly turned grey. brrr. Nightmare! 

At first glance, the pump brake is an imposing structure with its multiple right angles.  Add to that the need to make the port and starboard brakes look alike. The axletree is made from five segments of 1.5" brass wire.  The vertical connectors are fabricated from 3" square brass rod which has been drilled to accept the axletree segments and shaped with files.  The various pieces were silver soldered together except where the long segment inserts into its fore connecting rod. This allows for fine adjustments in length during the final installation.  Don't forget to insert the wheel!
 

 

 
I am lucky enough to have Admiralty Models' PE set for the Swan class and this includes the wheel components and links of chain.  This is assembled like a bicycle chain, alternating double and single links.  Brass wire was inserted through the holes and the ends peened to secure it.  The picture also shows other components of the PE sheet.  After blackening, the chain look great in person but terrible on camera so I only am showing a top view to demonstrate the linking process.  
 

 

 
As a next step, everything is temporarily assembled to check for gross mistakes.
 

 

 
 
 
 
 

Here is a photo of the "iron work" for the boom, bowsprit, and mast.  Rather than using brass flat stock to form the various pieces, I thought I'd try something a little different.  Every fitting was made with slices of brass tubing.  In each case the components were silver soldered together.  I've never done any silver soldering, so this was a new experience for me, and I have to admit that I enjoyed it.  It's quite possible that Stay-Brite would have worked just as well, but I wanted to try something new.

I really lucked out on this procedure.  In every case except one, the inside diameters of the tubing were spot on for the boom, bowsprit and mast locations.  The one exception was the top bracket on the mast, which had a little play at the location where it should be mounted.  I solved that problem by applying some Stay-Brite solder to the inner surface of the ring, and reaming it out.  It really didn't take much to snug up the bracket.
 
BobF

All frames are glued together and on the keel. Now, a hard and long work of sanding.

It has been a long time between posts but I hope to make up for that over the next month.  There is always so much to do in the summer that there is not much time for sitting inside and breathing in sawdust.
 
For months now I keep "hearing" robin's not-too-complementary comment about my lazy sailor.  Of course he was right and so he has been evicted from his bunk and set off to work somewhere where he cannot be seen.    Since his bunk is no longer occupied, I have rolled and tied it to match the other two bunks.  
 
I went back to the plans and David's drawing and reworked the cistern cover.  It looks much better now.
 
The pump axletree is supported at the ends by support brackets.  Most of the Swan class ships used wood standards but Atalanta's plan show a metal bracket instead.  These are bolted to the hatch coamings.  These were made with 1.5" brass wire and tubing.  The parts were then silver soldered.  I have left one end long; this will be inserted into the coaming.  I assume there is a bolt on the underside of the coaming.  They will be blackened.