Mike Y

That would at least be a lot cheaper, but alas, the fabric of my shirts is a lot cruder than Navarra Fine Lawn White. I'm just a simple man....

Dear Jules,
Interpreting written sources is always dangerous. I don't have to remind you of the numerous deaths of people who were victim of different interpretations of religious written sources. The nasty reason is that people tend to select the interpretation that suits them best and completely ignore different signals.  A nice example is the Witsen drawing you show in #159 (V), where the bottom is planked and the bilge is not (yet). The next drawing in line is the one I showed in #155 (X), where the bilge is planked and an angle does show up. That's pure logic: before a shipbuilder starts planking, he flattens the frames to give the plank a solid landing, as you can see here on this picture, taken at the Statenjacht Utrecht shipyard:

 
I did not write Witsen's book, I am only comparing it to wreck finds and experiments with models and replicas and over and over again Witsen proved to be a trustful source. If you don't agree with my conclusions, that is alright with me. You are completely free to choose your own interpretations. Better even: write them down and publish them. Different ideas are often useful.  The only hesitation I have with your perseverance is a suspicion that you don't want to be convinced. I remember a former sort like discussion, in which you came into a forum as a fresh new member, stating that you had proof of 17th century Dutch shipbuilders designing their ships on paper, referring to a painting by Rembrandt. All the evidence of the contrary was denied and the discussion ended in a chaos. I am afraid this is a repetition. 
Again, I don't care if you think differently than I do on some matters. You are free to do so as you are also free to make your beliefs public. I don't feel attacked, but please stop bothering me, more or less demanding to agree with you in matters where we think differently. We are here to enjoy our hobby and some people like to hear opinions about the roots of the full-size industry. I pass through what I think I know (which is in fact very little) and if you have problems with what I say, I deeply apologize. Life is complicated enough without useless discussions.
Again I wish you all the best with your model of de Gouden Leeuw. Maybe you should post your work here. That would give a good basis for discussion. Better than this one, I'm afraid.
Best,
Ab
 

Hi Group,
As I use my Taig Mill exclusively, this is another tool that needs a home.  Works great, however for larger scales - 1/36 and above its a bit small for my needs.  Any offers are appreciated via PM

To allanyed: Material used for this part is boxwood. The part is made using a cnc milling machine, which enables precise milling from both sides. The procedure can be seen in the photos in post 8.
I continue with the construction of the wing transom.
     

When cutting the ledges into individual pieces I first tried passing it through the blade with the notched side down.
That was a mistake as the blade tore the nubs off.
Then I turned it over and all was good.

The battens were cut with the same setup with less concern for what side was up or down.
The assembly was done on the build jig.

When the white PVA glue was dry the sides were sanded square and the top of the battens flush with the top of the ledge nubs.
Here is the result of my very first grating ever.

Presently all the Orlop deck beams are temporarily glued in place to mark all the notch locations for carlings.
They will be removed to cut these notches on the bench as, try as I might, I could not manage to do them on the model.
It is a combination of the depth in the hull, the size of chisels I have and my skill level/confidence at this stage.
Possibly the higher decks might be a bit easier???
 
 
 

Not only it has incredible details, but it definitely has a charm and very well designed! Can easily imagine it as a movie set  A pleasure to look at!

Not only it has incredible details, but it definitely has a charm and very well designed! Can easily imagine it as a movie set  A pleasure to look at!

Not only it has incredible details, but it definitely has a charm and very well designed! Can easily imagine it as a movie set  A pleasure to look at!

Not only it has incredible details, but it definitely has a charm and very well designed! Can easily imagine it as a movie set  A pleasure to look at!

Not only it has incredible details, but it definitely has a charm and very well designed! Can easily imagine it as a movie set  A pleasure to look at!

Not only it has incredible details, but it definitely has a charm and very well designed! Can easily imagine it as a movie set  A pleasure to look at!

The Ghost Ship Jenny is complete!  Before I get to the final update, I want to give sincere thanks to everyone that followed along on this short but entertaining journey:  @Keith Black, @Knocklouder, @Ian_Grant, @gsdpic, @gjdale, @Scottish Guy, @FriedClams, @Canute, @Javelin, @mtaylor, @GrandpaPhil, @Thukydides, @Bryan Woods, @JacquesCousteau, @John Fox III, @hollowneck, @Landlubber Mike, @ccoyle, @Coyote_6, @BLACK VIKING, @CiscoH, @Rik Thistle, @Ryland Craze, @Paul Le Wol, @Mike Y.  I can never thank y'all enough for your support, suggestions, critiques, and humor!
 
Now the final update.  To finish up the Jenny, I wanted to mount the bottle on something that would look a bit spooky, maybe a little eerie - something that would add to the mystique of a ghost ship.  A while back, I found this root ball from a fallen cedar tree that looked cool (actually a juniper tree, but we call them cedars in Austin).  I kept it knowing that I’d eventually find a use for it.  

The bottle and the root ball turned out to be a perfect match.  The root ball rests stable and level on its side, and the bottle fits right in between the “tines” of the roots.   The cedar wood is very hard, weather resistant, and lasts forever.  They are commonly used for barbed wire fence posts around here.  However, they will still flake off strands of thin bark so I decided to seal the surface, trying to keep as much of the natural color as possible.  I ended up doing a 50/50 mix of Minwax semi-gloss poly and thinner.  The mix kept the poly from darkening the wood too much and allowing the natural variations to show through.

Here’s the completed project.

 

It is interesting to see the difference between the European and US/Canadian situations.  In the States, there are few contests and a few non-competitive shows.  Although some models are built by people who accept commissions, I would not describe them as professional modelers.  Your Pegasus is beautiful and deserves to be appreciated by the modelling community.

It's been a month of many things. Spring has sprung, grass cutting, readying the patio, preparing the flower and vegetable gardens for later next month.
 
All the orlop deck stairways are installed.
Made some of the standard knees but they are not installed as yet.
I've got 12 of 23 gratings sets made.
I won't be posting anything until I've got them all assembled and installed.

Rather then continue work on my standard knees, grating, decking or the last of the three stairways to the hold, I decided it was time to tackle the thing I've been avoiding... the hawse holes.  The contract states they are 15" diameter, 15/64" at scale.  I first double checked my heights then drilled my pilot holes at 5/64".

Next, with a new sharp bit,  I drilled one inboard hawse hole very carefully and slowly with a backing board held on the inside.
Success!  That was easy.
Drilled the outboard hole and it happened. She split and flew off.
That was unexpected.

I setup the other side with clamps to help hold her together.
The outboard face of each of those holes have tear out chips in them!

So, I did the only thing left to do.
Glued the broken piece back on, clamped it up and left the room.

I won't be back working on her until Monday afternoon.
Good night world.
😉

It has been an interesting week.  Lots to report!
 
I installed all the beams and hadn't really notice "it" yet. Just in the zone happily moving along with things.
Started putting in the carlings and as I approached midships it became obvious.
 
What shall I do about it? Installing the orlop deck was meant to be a learning experience to prepare me for those above. The orlop deck was decidedly too deep for anything to be readily noticeable, so lets just move on.
 
Installed all the carlings and it was still there taunting me... "what?" you ask... the hump!!
The aft and fore are high and the deck does a gentle slope downwards towards the midships... or at least that what it looks like on the plans.
Mine has a noticeable rise or camel hump in it. I just won't look at it... but it is still there.
 
I decided to work on the ledgers and needed to make card templates as seen above. I installed them low, down on top of the deck clamp as their thickness plus the grating thickness equalled the beam height. This made sense to me. I could find no photos to suggest I was right.
 
I woke up this morning having made a determined decision in my sleep. I should have dealt with it, the hump, when I first noticed it. I hope this time I've finally learnt that lesson!
I measured the damage... about half a deck clamp in height. How it happened is of no importance, besides, I don't know the answer. Possibly my deck clamps slipped under the  wooden clamps used to hold it in place when glued.
 
I determined which deck beams needed to come out. Cut the smaller carlings with my snips and used my flat nosed parallel pliers to persuade the larger ones to come out... almost like pulling teeth. Used the same pliers to remove the deck beams.
 
Marked the deck clamps and chiselled out the material to, at best, make the hump flat with the lowest points either side of it as seen above.

Reinstalled the beams and checked for flatness. Success! Glued and weighted them down until the glue sets up.

I feel much better about it now. When all is said and done I'll be thinking of how I corrected it, not how it is still hidden down there.
 

I had the opportunity to take part in a European championship a few years ago with my 'Amarante' and, frankly, I realised that these types of competitions, at least in Europe, are completely distorted by rampant hypocrisy, inept judges who don't even know the basics of naval architecture, and verdicts already written before they even begin! By now, the most important federations (French, Belgian, German) snub these competitions while they are very committed to non-competitive events (such as the next international meeting to be held in Evian), leaving the competitions to the Eastern European countries whose participants for the most part are professional modellers who profit from their works, which are perfect because they are for the most part made in 3D technique and CNC machines, against which even the best manual artist cannot compete!
Therefore, at least until this stagnant situation can be changed, my Pegasus will not take medals! 🙂
 
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

more....

As always, thanks for the likes.  I do appreciate you all following along.  After all the metal work of making the chain plates, backstay plates, eye bolts, and deadeye strops, I decided I'd work on a relatively straight forward sub assembly.  I went ahead and installed the rudder, and gudgeons and pintels (I had shaped the rudder itself a couple of months ago).  I used Chuck's mini kit for those.  You have a choice in the mini kit of .010" thick paperboard material or .028" thick plywood.  I opted for the thicker plywood and sanded it down to .018" thick.  By my eye that's a good compromise.  I used .020" diameter styrene rod for the bolts.  Yes, yes, I know it's probably sacrilege among purists to use plastic on a wooden ship build.  Haha.  But since the bolt heads are covered in paint I chose the easier to cut and work with styrene rather than metal wire.  Everything was painted with black paint and then once mounted I taped the simulated metal straps off and applied rust brown weathering powder. I haven't glued the rudder on yet.  I'll do that at a later date after I drill the final hole to mount the tiller (I did drill a small pilot/locator hole though).  That said, the rudder sits correctly straight and true with the pintels snugged down into the gudgeons.
 
On a related note, I received the last few packages of blocks I'll need for the build, and a serving machine, from Chuck this week.  If I'm inventorying correctly, I think that may be the last stuff I need to complete the build.
 
Erik

So over lunch today I walked up to the local hardware store (located dangerously close to my house) and picked up a tap & die set to resolve the mounting question asked above - thanks again Dave and VTHokiEE! It took about 1 minute to tap the mounting holes I drilled out yesterday and I was very relieved to find that I hadn't drilled the holes out too wide for the 6-32 tap. A small step, but this lightened up a huge area of ignorance for me in terms of this aspect of modelling. Here are some photos, just to liven things up a bit, though they may not be of much intrinsic interest. The second shot is of the tiny puncture made by the awl - hard to get focus on this.....
hamilton

It was so great to see everyone at the New London show yesterday.  There were some fantastic models on display.  I hope everyone has a safe trip back to their workshops.
 
And talking about a safe journey back to the workshop.  Many of you may recall that 4 and maybe even 5 years ago, Someone swiped my mini-me off the Winnie model under construction at the show.  
 
I am happy to report that after several years as hostage…and with no ransom paid,  someone anonymously released mini-me and placed him in the depths of the speedwell model at this years show.  I was happy to find him below deck upon my return to the shop.  No harm was apparent on “mini-me” and he is in good health.  Thank you goes out to person for having a change of heart and I am sure that both of you will sleep a bit  more soundly this evening!!   Since I have lost 30 pounds this year so far...mini-me will now undertake the same dietary and exercise regime that I am now unfortunately tolerating.
 
You cant make this stuff up!!!
 

I have reached another small milestone.  All of the below deck fittings and cabins are completed.  The gun deck is fully framed as well.   Next up I will start planking the inboard bulwarks.   That should make a huge difference.  
 
I hope to see many of you this weekend at the New London show.   It should be a very enjoyable weekend.   I am looking forward to it.
 







 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Chuck

I have now finished the engine.  As is often the case, the exhaust was a bit of a struggle and who knows if the ends of the headers are in the right place.  I guess I'll find out later in the build.   For the "enthusiast models", Fujimi includes a stand for the engine if you wish to display it outside the car.  I used that stand for the photos but I intend to install the engine in the car.   I will likely add more hoses and such when I do that.  In the pictures you can see that I added spark plug wires.  Yea, maybe they should have been red instead of blue but that is what I had.
 
And yes that exhaust wraps around the front of the engine.  The engine is transverse mounted and there are additional pipes to connect to mufflers that will be to the left of the engine as viewed in the first picture.
 




I've also done more prep work on the body and various loose body panels.  I first primed the "inside" with the alclad black primer/microfiller.  That leaves a nice semi gloss black that I may not even paint over.  I taped down the body panels to protect the black; for the body I did not bother taping over the black as most of it will not be visible, and then sprayed Splash paints light grey surfacer.  I'll use Splash paints Rossa Corsa...I think I have enough left over for this car after using it on the Ferrari 330 P4 I built.
 
The panel that is third from the left will be tricky as it spans the interior and exterior of the car.  It is the frame around the engine compartment opening.  If I glue it in first, I think it will be difficult to get coverage of the interior parts.  But if I glue it in after painting, there will be an ugly visible seam.  I think I will have to paint the interior part (to the right in the photo) first then glue the part in and user filler on the seam, then paint the rest of the body.  I will also glue on the front underside (far right piece) before painting the body.  But even before all of that, I plan to paint the interior headliner area and then mask the entire inner part of the body before spraying the red paint.
 

The swivel gun mounts: