bhermann

I've begun on the fore mast running rigging by making and mounting the topgallant and royal yards and adding their rigging to the extent that I'm going to do it. It's my intention to do the yard rigging ( trusses, parrels, halliards, foot ropes, lifts,  braces) and certain of the sail rigging ( clews, sheets, but no bunt, leech or reef lines). This has been my practice for quite a while and is entirely arbitrary, based upon my feelings about appearance and feasibility. I am also not doing any of the headsail and staysail rigging on this build. 
 
These first two yards, like the previously done spritsail and sprit topsail yards, are relatively simple, since they are round in section throughout. I added the cleats, foot ropes (on the topgallant), clew and sheet blocks, lift blocks (on the topgallant),  halliard ties, one end of the parrels and brace pendants (on the topgallant) before mounting the yards on their pins on the mast. I then added blocks for the lifts at the mastheads and   various blocks for the braces at the main topgallant mast, main topmast stay and fore top.
 
I then ran the lifts, clews, halliards and royal sheets and tied off those that are belayed in the fore top. Rope coils were added for each belayed line. Lastly, I ran the braces, but didn't tie them off at this point.
 
I'm now in the process of making the topsail yard and lower yard.
 
Bob

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 115 – Rudder, Miscellaneous
 
The first picture shows the last bit of work on the interior cabin deck detailing.
 

 
The curved seat/partition separates the cabin from the stern framing and leaves room for the rudder shaft.  All of this structural work aft of the partition will be hidden under poop decking.  As can be seen in a later picture, I decided to cover this rather austere seat with some upholstery.
 
With this in place the framing of the poop deck could be completed, including the fitting of the aft mooring bits and the boomkins shown in the next picture.
 

 
These are 12" x 12" timbers, tied together and into stout carlings that I reinforced with knees as shown.
 
The helm port was previously drilled through the framing but now had to be drilled through the bottom planking and sized for the 16" diameter rudder shaft.  After drilling a pilot hole, the center of the full hole could be set with a still wire through the gudgeons as shown below.
 

 
The hole was carefully enlarged with round files to fit the rudder.  The next picture shows the rudder hinges being fitted.
 

 
The gunstock shaped rudder rotates on the axis of the wire in the previous photo.  The top gudgeon has been added over the paint.  The hinges were fit one-at-a-time.  The masking tape is to keep the woodwork clean of metal dust.
 
The dry transfer stern lettering can be seen in this picture.  It is not yet finished.  The G, C and K need to be replaced and I am awaiting delivery of some more letters.  However, the picture below shows what it will look like.
 

 
I say what it "will" look like.  In the interest of full disclosure, I did a small amount of "photo shopping" on the three broken letters so I could use this picture.  Please excuse this.  The letters are quite small – 3/32" and 1/16".  When I get the replacement letters and successfully (hopefully) place them, the lettering will be sealed – probably with acrylic sanding sealer.  Right now they are easily scraped off.  I did a lot of that.
 
The next picture shows the fabrication of the iron rudder preventer in progress.
 

 
There are four parts – silver soldered.  It has rather long horns.  These have been rough shaped.  The strapping still has to be thinned down and drilled for bolts.
 
The blackened preventer can be seen below on the installed rudder.
 

 
The preventer was blackened with WinOx.  I have now disposed of all my remaining blue stuff in favor of this.
 
The rudder post in the next picture will be cut down later.
 

 
The mooring bits and boomkins are being shaped in this picture.  I found it easier to do this after installation – using rounded files.
 
The last picture shows the present state of the stern.
 

 
The poop deck is now ready for its two skylight coamings and decking.  Note that the portholes have been installed,   All of the work on the lower hull is now complete and it has been finished with wax.
 
Ed

Thanks Steve, Tim and George, and the likes.
 
I finished the rudder chains on the other side, which went a lot faster.
 

 
I was going to fill the air ports with white glue to make the clear plugs, but found this Micro Klear stuff, so I filled them from the back using a small paint brush that has some sort of swab on the end. I let these sit upside down while the stuff dried. It is a bit runny, so if I put them right side up the stuff would ooze out. Since I put it in the back, it would harden enough before it traversed the length of the port.
 

 
I let them dry overnight and they were nice an clear the next day.
 

 
So then I had to make the two strips that cover the ends of the quarter gallery backs. I should have made these at lot earlier, like the instructions say, and certainly before I added the stern decorations. I am really concerned about messing them up now. Oh well. I had to trim larger strips down to size for these trim pieces and then soak and bend them to fit. The upper bend is really tight, so I worked on that one first, which took about three resoakings to finally get it so I could fit the strip all the way inside the curve. Then I bent the second curve, which goes the other way, which was a bit challenging to not take out the too much of the first curve in the process. I finally got each piece close and while they were still supple, I glued the top curve in place with CA and held it until it dried. I could not use clamps because of the stern decorations. I then added CA to the bottom curve and held that part in place. Overall I think they came out well, but I still need to trim them and add the bottom pieces, which are straight. Then I have to sand the edges of these to be flush with the transom without hitting any of the stern decorations. We shall see how successful that will be.
 

 
I guess I haven't said this in a while, but any feedback, especially criticisms are always welcome. Thanks.

Time for another update.
 
The hull planking has now been completed and the rubbing strake fixed.  There are still a few details to add to the hull, but in the meantime I'll make a start on the deck planking.
 
John
 

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 114 – Cabins, Brass Sheathing
 
With the forecastle essentially complete, I returned to the interior of the cabin deck.  The first picture shows the cabins on both sides completed.
 

 
The poop deck framing has been installed back to the last cabins.  The curved wood block that will serve as the base for the circular seat and paneling is set in place.  This will close off the aft end of the cabin deck, separating it from the stern framing and the helm.  Note also that the double doorway into the cabin deck has been cut – once the poop framing was done.
 
I also started work on the main deck cabin.  The starboard fore and aft wall panel is being constructed in the next picture.
 

 
The panel was made first from individual planks.  It has to follow the sheer of the deck.  In the picture the 4X4 plate that will support the roof rafters is glued on and 4X4 studs are being attached.  The next picture shows the framed wall in place for a trial fit.
 

 
The doors and windows have been framed on the inside.  In the next picture they have been cut out.
 

 
The exterior walls will be white.  I will do this painting before fitting the natural wood framing of the doors and windows.
 
This has all been a nice diversion from the brass sheathing of the hull, but I did not want to proceed further with details on the main deck without finishing the lower hull to minimize the need to upending the model.  The next picture shows the stamping tool for embossing nails on the brass plates.
 

 
This was discussed in some previous posts.  The area on the right is used to stamp every plate.  The single row stamp to the left is used for the top dress course.  It needs a row of nails added at the top.
 
The plates are cemented down with contact cement, with the indentations up to simulate nails hammered into the plates.  These should more correctly be called sheets.  They were very thin.  Being nailed over a felt underlay would have left a decidedly quilted appearance.  In the next picture, a plate has been cemented and is being rolled down.
 

 
This improves the bond with the contact cement, presses down the edges, and flattens out the indentations.  Glue is applied to one plate and its place on the hull at a time.  This is necessary to have glue on the overlaps.  Excess cement that can be seen on installed plates in this picture is easily removed later.
 
The last picture shows this work completed.
 

 
The brass is very shiny.  It will dull with time, but I helped it along with some buffing with a Scotchbrite disc in a rotary tool – just enough to dull the glare a bit.
 
Work on the bottom framing can now be completed – adding any missing bolts, blackening the copper wire bolts, final poolishing and applying wax finish.  It may also be time for the stern lettering.
 
 
Ed

Hello all,
I have finished the frames for the PH kit.    While it has taken me the better part of two months to do this,  I know of a number of other modelers that have completed this step in about half that time.  Yup, I'm slow but modeling is about the journey for me.
 
The photo below shows all of the frames assembled with the upper left of the picture being the forward frames and, like reading a book, the lower right frames are the aft frames.  At this point the frames are still pretty rough.  The next step is to bevel the edges in preparation for putting the frames in the construction jig.  Once all that work is done faring the hull is when the final step in cleaning up the frames occurs.  I really like the idea of progressive step to shaping the frames with no one step being a big "bang" step.
 
 
The frame furthest to the left in the third row from the top is the dead flat.  "Inside" that frame is a 6" ruler to give you a sense of size.
 
I have really enjoyed assembling the frames.  Definitely wets my appetite for a scratch build down the road.

This last posting is the booms that are painted and banded with cardboard to simulate iron rings. Of course lots of extra details that Billings did not specify. I am happy how everything looks.

Small morning update, barrels for water (rum?  ). 

Ratlines finished  .

Kit instructions suggest to use rope for attaching anchors. Instead of rope I used chain. For blackening I used Blacken-it solution and slightly oiled it before installation to hide patina look.

Still few bits to go, currently working on display case.
 
 

.. and I think the test was a success...
 
(Don't try this at home... )
 
 
 
 
 

I've been doing some research on ships my ancestor captained and sail design with different materials in another forum. I would like to build one of these ships.
 
The work on the flying Fish is continuing. I made some progress on the planking today.
I also have been doing some mock ups of the display case I will build.  I can't make up my mined on the style. 
 
I also ordered some tap and die to make some neat clamps I found in another forum. There like the wood screw clamps I use in my shop but very small. I will put up photos and instructions when I get the parts in and build them.
 
I also like the display that was done on this model. It looks like the ship is under sail at sea.
  Ship in waves disply http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/152-le-superbe-by-blue-ensign-heller-plastic-built-as-le-praetorian-after-boudriot/  
sails  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9979-your-best-sail-cloth-and-technique/
 
reserch on ships   http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9958-i-need-help-in-finding-these-ships-in-plan-form-elizaulyssescarolineatahualpa/

Richard - I use this Berzomatic torch for silver soldering.  It runs on butane and is hot enough for the silver soldering I have done to date.  I use the silver soldering paste with flux premixed.  The torch has an adjustable flame.  I picked this up at Home Depot a couple or three years ago and it has been fine for me.  If I am not careful, it is capable of melting and evaporating the brass pieces I am working on.
 

 
Bob

Thank you all very much for all of the positive reinforcement.  I hoping she will be ready for launch - meaning hull completion - in a month or so.
 
Greg, to answer your question, the 14" wide margin plank was installed first with uncut edges.  Planking was worked out from the center - 6" wide planks.  Central planks were mitered at the end until the angle of the cuts reached about 45 degrees.  Before installed the last mitered plank, it was laid in place to mark the intersection of its outer edge  with the inner edge of the margin plank.  Before installing the last mitered plank, a cross cut - one-half plank width - was plunge cut with a chisel or hobby knife into the side of the margin plank.  The unshaped joggled plank was then laid in place to mark its intersection.  The angle of the joggle was then cut with a chisel between the two marks.  After fitting the last mitered plank, the first joggled plank was tapered at the end to fit the joint.  Before installing it the margin was marked in the same way for the next plank.  Below is a picture showing the marking of some later planks.
 

 
This process was fast and worked well.  If I were doing it again, I would make the forward curved piece of the margin plank shorter so its scarphed joint would occur before the first joggled plank - to avoid having to joggle a plank into the scarph.  It never too late to learn.

Hi,
I make sails for models in scale 1:75 with seams of the cloths sewing marked
with single thread ( courtesy of Admiral ).
For models in scale 1:100 I use computer printing of cloths lines and reef bands on thermal transferring paper for ironing on to sails fabric .
Sails leech, head and foot ropes are fixed in its place with use of textile adhesive .
Material for sails I prefer is old bed linen many, many times washed.
Work step by step
1.Make paper stencil for each sail and check it’s dimensions on your model.
2.With soft pencil transfer all lines in to fabric – add stripe 5-7 mm around
sail edges.
3.Make all necessary lines on fabric using sewing machine and thin thread with light brown or beige color.
For sails with thermal transferring of line any sewing is not necessary.
Cut of sail shape.
4. Fold the edges stripe to reverse side of sail and apply textile adhesive
5. Put sail on flat surface protected against glue adhesion ( wax paper )
and fix it with pins and nails for forming clews.
Using textile adhesive attach thread around sail and form clews and cringles as necessary.
After adhesive excess removal from sail surface and final ironing your sail is ready.
 
Foto 1-10 Sail making Step by Step
Foto 11 HMS Speedy  - printed sails
Foto 12 HMS Warrior - printed sails
Foto 13 Patern for printing sails for S/S Savannah
 
Tadeusz
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 113 – Forecastle
 
The first picture shows the margin plank on the forecastle installed and planking started along the centerline.
 
  
 
The next picture shows the completed planking – as yet untreenailed.
 

 
In the next picture the forward end of the fancy rail has been made and is being fitted around the knightheads.
 

 
The adjoining pieces of the fancy rail are being fitted in the next picture.
 

 
In the next picture the sections of fancy rail have been painted white and are being glued down.
 

 
All treenailing of the forecastle deck has been completed in this picture.
 
The last wo pictures are of the full hull – as requested.
 

 
I have to do quite a bit of clutter removal to take pictures like this.  This picture also shows some progress on the port side cabins of the cabin deck at the stern.
 
The last picture is from a different angle.  The part below the black will be plated.
 

 
The bowsprit is just a dummy.  The channel edges are unpainted because cap moldings will eventually be glued to these edges.
 
Ed

it's been a couple of weeks since my last update........been down with a cold.   it's not the cold so much,  but the meds to fight it make me so drowsy.   another thing that brought me to a crawl,  is when I did some dry fits,  I found a few things that are off with the build.....I'm trying to figure out how to work around them without having to alter what I've done so far.   the one solace I can take from this,  is that in looking at the Andrea Gail,  what I'm actually seeing is the Lady Grace.  my thought is,  that while these two ships bore a resemblance,  the Andrea Gail may have been configured differently.  looking at the Hanna Borden,  you can see the difference
 

 
the Andrea Gail was built at the same yard......the A.G. in 1978......the H.B. in 1983....eastern ship builders in Panama City,  Fla.  the problems I've run into are small really......it's a real fudge figuring out how to do it,  and keep with the configuration.   I've already solved one of them.
 
I did get those eye shackles in place.  I used two long pins and stuck the shackle in place,  through the channels on both sides.   first a small drill,  and then a drill the same diameter as the shackles.
 

 
I have a few others to do......I'll be using the same method.   the first problem I saw pertains to the tall ladder the will go up the side of the first and second section.  I wrapped the railings all the way around the face of the gangway......I originally thought it looked better that way.  now that I have the front uprights and supports assembled,  to put the ladder where it's supposed to go,  will be blocked by the railing.
 

 
what makes this worse,  is that I made it too wide,  and the ladder will also interfere with the boom bracket.  I will most likely put the ladder on the back part of the assembly...you'll see more about this in a moment.  another problem is the stanchion I made.......don't know why I didn't see this one sooner.
    with the stanchion in place,  the tilt of the aft section is going to interfere with it.  the reason why.....is that it's way out of scale!   the instructions had measurements of the parts,  and that's what I went by to make it.  too bad too.........I dressed it up a bit more with some supports at the base.
 

 
so.....it will be back to the drawing board with this piece of the puzzle,  and scale it down so it's at least the same height as the podium / rack {should have been a dead give - a - way  }   to be able to put the boom brackets where they needed to go,  I had to trim the bulwark fenders back even with the fore deck railings.  then they will fit in the proper place.   the alteration was touched up after the changes were made.
 

 

 
still need to finish the pilot house roof........got a bunch of stuff to make that go on top too.  I've done a bit more this morning.......should have it up later.   thanks for looking in 

Now it is completed

I can see it now. 300 hundred years in the future, an archivists is carefully restoring a model of the Constitution and they find the magnetic media hidden behind the windows. So carefully they extract the delicate plastic and analyze it and wonder what an Excel file is, and what religious connotations the numbers meant to the builder.

Here's my rigging tools. Thank goodness I have a surgeon friend. He gave me those surgical tools which allow me to reach into the tangle of shrouds and ratlines to fasten lines to the rails. I finished the braces on the main mast. Mizzen next.

Just a small update from the weekend's activities. To add the large arches to the transom, I first glued a copy of the transom plan to some manilla folder, then cut it out along the top arch to use as a template. I taped this to the transom, then glued down the trim piece, starting at the middle and working outward. When I had most of it glued down, I removed the template and cut the ends to fit into the side trim.
 

 
When this was dry, I cut the template back to the lower arch and did the same thing for that trim piece.
 

 
I then made up the columns that I put along and between the windows. These were made from three separate pieces of wood that I primed and painted white. The two end piece were cut and the inside corners rounded off with a sanding block. The thinner center pieces were scored with a razor blade scraper before I painted them. I glued the end pieces on first, then cut the middle pieces to fit tight to them.
 

 
I have primed and painted the eagle, including the shield, but forgot to take a picture of it. I have also started working with the Sculpey to create the stars and figures. So far, I think I can get that technique to work.

A small update on the state of the cannons.
 
I have taken Monkeyman's suggestion and cut the top of the gun carriages, and cut extra 'steps' into the sides. I have also cut the back out to simulate the rear axle. 

 
Here is a photo of the carriage with the practice cannon (that is painted black), on the deck. this is the new red that I am going to finish carriages in.
The eye bolts and rings were made with .03 wire and painted black, I still need to finish painting the red.

 
The size looks a lot better next to the gun port.

 
I have been playing with the wire to try to make small hooks but the smallest I can make is about 2.5 mm, so I think I am going to just put the breaching rope on the cannons, as the other ropes with their hooks, single and double blocks, they would be too small for me to make look convincing and uniform.
But I will put the eyebolts on the carriages and the walls for them. as well as eyebolts for stowing cannon.
For now I am still working through these cannons and pumps before I can move on with the model.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 112 – Main Deck/Forecastle Framing
 
The first picture shows the main deck aft of the main hatch after completion of the central planking and treenailing.
. 

 
Topsail sheet bits are now installed for each mast.  The metal plates over the pump suction pipes will be blackened.  The next picture shows decking completed at the bow.
 

 
The port side in this area will be left unplanked – as shown.  The starboard side was planked so the anchor chain can be shown on this side.  The chain pipes have not been installed, but will come up through the two square cutouts forward of the sheet bits.  The two carrick bits are installed and will support the winch later.
 
At this stage the forecastle could be framed.  The next picture shows the beginning with the setting of the breast beam.
 

 
The beam is supported at the center on the carrick bits and with a bolt into the central Samson post.  In the next picture the setting of the forecastle beams is underway.
 

 
The top of the forecastle decking needs to be flush at the side with the top of the outer planking – and, of course, it must be fair.  Fairness is being checked as each beam is set using the strip of planking as shown.
 
As the forecastle beams were set other structures were added.  In the next picture the mooring bits are being glued in.
 

 
The cathead and capstan carlings have been installed.  The forward beams are still loose, pending fitting of the bowsprit partners.
 
In the next picture those have been installed along with the lodging knees and half hooks astride the dummy bowsprit.
 

 
Except for carlings astride the bowsprit, the forecastle framing is essentially complete.  Copper wire, epoxied bolts have been installed to reinforce the structure.
 
The last picture is a view from directly aft along the deck.
 

 
This shows the copper bolts through the breast beam.  It also shows the upward sheer and the fairness of the forecastle deck.
 
Ed

Hi I just became a member today. This is my first model Flying Fish from Model Shipways. 
I plan to build to specifications . A copper hull and presented with full sail including Stunsls.
I would like any modeler to make suggestions on my build. I am new and any information or guidance will be welcome. I'm sure some of my Technics will be imaginative and will invoke discussion.

The next topic I'll cover is gaffs and booms.  To give a feel for my somewhat erratic process, I started on these in November 2011 and was tying some blocks on a couple of days ago.  In the meanwhile I have also spent time on masts and lots of bands.  In short, doing an abbreviated log like this allows me to mask some of my scattered order of things.
 
As I mentioned in an earlier post, all gaffs and booms (and the bowsprit) have one straight edge and the opposite side is tapered on both ends.  It was important for me to keep track of that straight edge so bands, chocks, etc could be properly placed on the spar.  I found a way to do this that was pretty simple and worked well for me.  I taped the spar to a piece of paper and ran the edge of a pencil along one side.  The resulting line marked the straight side quite well for me.
 

 

 
Once the straight side was established, I could taper the opposite side based on the plans.  I won't show this again as I covered it ina previous entry (and I didn't take a lot of repetitive photos of the process ). 
 
Working on the main gaff, there are a bunch of stop chocks that need to be installed to keep the bridles and blocks for the peak halliard from sliding down the gaff to the mast.  I first tried to cut individual pieces and attach them to the gaff.
 

 
I was unhappy with the result as the pieces were difficult to clamp and impossible for me to get lined up nicely.  I thought about it and came up with the "chocks on a stick" idea.  I marked a piece of stripwood with the location of the chocks and the carved some of the excess wood away.  Here are the two sets in different states of carving.
 

 
I them placed glue on the strip only where the chocks would remain, positioned the first strip and clamped it in palce with my favorite clamping tool.
 

 

 
After gluing it looked like this:
 

 
I then carved away the excess wood and was left with oversized chocks (you'll note that on is missing here, I was able to glue a single one in place more easily than a whole lot of them).
 

 
I then followed the same process for the second set.
 

 
Finally all the chocks were shaped using a file and a rasp and this was the result.  Note:  Russ suggested that I could have glued the chocks to the gaff with the individual pieces facing in and then just cut off the strip.  That's why he is Master and I am just Grasshopper!
 

 
Bob
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The last chock pair is a little different.  And much simpler - one on each side.
 
Here are the blanks, the first chock clamped in place, and the finished product.
 

 

 

 
I used the following jig to set up the bridles and blocks for the peak halliard rigging.  It was another chance to use Gil's splicing technique - that is starting to come together, although there is still a struggle to keep the splices from bunching up.
 
The first bridle in the jig:
 

 
And the final result:
 

 
You can see a band at the end of the gaff.  I still haven't tied the block to it for the topsail sheet   The bridles were done in June 2012.
 
Bob