bhermann

Introduction
 
My name is Chris van der Linden. I have roughly 15 years experience with painting metal and plastic miniatures. I started the wooden modelship building hobby only recently, about 2 years ago and noticed a lot of people are struggling with how to paint their cast metal ornaments to a satisfying standard. I decided to write down my experience on this topic for everyone to enjoy.
 
Note: this tutorial focusses on metal colored finish right now. I will add an additional explanation on how to do different colors.
 

 
Easy for anyone
One thing I have learned is that painting is not as difficult as it seems. Sometimes people are amazed at the small details, believing they need a 1-haired brush and loupe to pull it off. This is NOT the case. Even with 2 simple steps you can have great looking (repeatable) results. 
 
Disclaimer 
Please use this guide and techniques to your own discretion. Always use a tester if you are unsure about the results. Each situation and personal preference is different. I can say however that I have used all of these techniques a lot without problems. I provide these tips for your satisfaction, this is by no means "they best way" to do it...
 
 
1. What paints to use?
 
Painting cast metal parts has its origins in "tin miniatures" painting, the toy soldiers we all remember. A common misconception is that painting on metal requires Humbrol or Oil paints. This is not true anymore.
 
Brands like Citadel and Vallejo have developed acrylic (water based) paints that have exceptionally good coverage even on un-treated metal parts. This is great because they are much easier to work with. Humbrol is tricky to thin down and mix with other colors, requires turpentine to wash and takes long to dry. Oil paint takes even longer to dry...
 
Long story short: I always work with water based acrylic paints from Citadel and Vallejo on metal cast parts. 
It dries fast, is easy to thin down, mix and work with. Add your wife/girlfriend's blowdrier and you can work even faster
 
Citadel paints tend to have rather funny names because they are used for fantasy/sci-fi minatures. So a certain red might be "Blood Red" or "Merchrite Red". This is their alternative for having "paint numbers". Both these brands also offer specialist paints such as instant rust, metallic colors, texture paints and weathering powders.
   
 
2. Preparation
 

 
a. Removing Flash / Mold Lines
 
As a result of the casting process most models have Flash and Mold lines. These are unwanted and you get a nicer looking part if you take some time to remove these. Flash is a bit of excess material that has run in between mold parts, usually giving a thin sort of "outcropping". Remove with a sharp knife or file. Mold lines are thin lines where the two mold parts are joined. Most of the times these run along the "sides" of a miniature and can be easily filed down to a smooth surface.
 
b. Shape your part before you paint
 
Some cast metal parts (depending on their material) can be deformed easily. Sometimes they are already slightly out of shape, deformed coming out of the box. Before you start painting, make sure you shape your part so it fits on your ship. Take as much time as you need because after painting you can't do this anymore. Paint chips easily.
 
c. Wash/rinse your parts (optional)
 
During the casting process so called "release agents" are used to ensure the cast pieces come free from the mold easily. This is a greasy kind of substance sometimes left on the miniature part. It can cause trouble during painting. If you want you can wash your cast parts gently in warm water with a bit of dishwater soap. Then wash clean with water and let it dry on a cloth. Use a blow drier if you are as impatient as me...
 
 
3. Primer
 
While paints such as Citadel and Vallejo give pretty good coverage on metal parts straight away, it usually helps to primer your castings first. This not only helps prevent paint chipping, it gives a perfect 'undercoat' for your paint work. 
 
I always use acrylic paint spray cans to prime my metal and plastic parts. Depending on the colors used lateron, I either prime with matte black, or gray. Black being ideal for darker colors such as green, brown, gold etc. Gray being a perfect base for colors such as Blue, Red, Yellow.
 

 
a. DIY sprayboot (for free) 
An easy way to prime your metal castings is to place them on a cardboard box. You can use a piece of double sided tape to "lightly fix" them in place. The box will allow you to turn your models around, without needing to touch the parts with your hands. (see what I did there lol). If you cut the front pane of a box out and place the castings inside it, you have a cheap DIY spray "boot".
 
b. Correct way to spray
Go outside, then spray the parts from about 30cm distance. Don't keep the nozzle pressed continually. This will un-neededly flood your fine model. Try to do short "puffs" while turning the box around, covering all angles. This will give a thinner coverage, avoiding flooding your castings.
 
c. Avoid warm sun 
One thing that can give bad coverage is spray painting in warm direct sunlight. Due to the heat, the gas with paint bubbles will partially dry in "mid air" while traveling towards your model. This will cause tiny droplets to form, giving a coarse finish.
 
 
4. Painting
 
Now that you have prepared and primed your castings, it is time to paint. Whoot! 
 
a. Make it easy for yourself
Often the parts you need to paint are quite small, making them difficult to handle. Smudging your own work. An easy fix is to stick a piece of double sided tape or gummy on old paint bottle. Then stick your model/miniature/ornament on top of that. Now you can hold and maneuvre this thing, without having to hold the actual casting. This is also somewhat less strainful on the hands during long paint jobs.
 

 
b. Color block
 
Likely your model will now look black or gray. The first painting step is to apply what we call a "color block". This basically is a solid appliance of the "main" color of the object. When done you have a full opaque colored object, not looking very impressive... yet ....
 

 
In this picture above:  top brown parts are primed, then painted brown base color. Bottom right is the original "bling" casting.
 
 
C. Wash / Ink 
 
Now comes the million dollar trick that will take you 90% of the way. Most miniature painters use what they  call a "wash" or ink. This is a water thin paint that flows onto the model easily, ending up darkening the recesses, while staying clear of the raised areas.
 

This gives two results: The model becomes darker overall. Plan ahead for this, use a ligther color block if needed to begin with. It also gives a lot of your detail without manually painting. So all the small details in your cast ornament suddenly "spring to life" without any talent needed. Citadel offers specialised washes in different colors which are absolutely amazing.
 
Use a larger brush and royally "flood" your model with the wash. It dries up subtler than it initially looks so don't be afraid to go bold with this. Washes and inks do take longer to dry. Set the painted part aside and give it a few hours to dry. You can speed this up using a blow dryer, but be gentle.
 
 
 

 
d. Add highlights
 
Once the wash has dried you can add highlights to your paint work. This is optional. You can go all out and add many levels of highlights, but usually one "step" is enough. You can simply use your main color block color, with 25% white or lighter shade color mixed in. Use a fine brush and paint some of the raised areas that you think should "catch light" in a natural situation. 
 
e. Drybrush technique
Alternatively you can use what is called the "Dry brush" technique. For this take a larger brush, then load your brush with the highlight color paint. But instead of painting, first rub it allmost dry on a tissue so virtually no paint comes off the brush. Then "wipe" across the surface of your casting, the little paint that is still in the brush will "catch on" the raised areas of your model, not the lower deeper parts. This is an easy way to apply detailed highlights without having to manually paint them, which requires a more steady hand.
 
Drybrushing gives a more "chalky" grittier look. Painting highlights by hand, a more smooth silky look.
Apply to your own taste or skill level. 
 

 
 
Examples of finished results
 
< I am collecting photos right now - will be updated - 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 89 – Middle Deck Hatches/Cabin Deck
 
The first picture shows some of the treenailing on the cabin deck.
 

 
These planks are 7” wide.  At this width the standard fastening spec was one per beam / ledge.  The treenails are about 1 ½” in diameter and are Castelo as mentioned in the last post.
 
The next picture shows a typical hatch being framed. 
 

 
At this scale and on this deck, simple lap joints are used.  The head ledges are on top to secure the coamings.  These will be bolted at the pin locations, in each corner and in the center of the beam.
 
The next picture shows a coaming completed and being glued down and one still being fabricated.
 

 
In the next picture the central planks are being installed between the openings for the hatches, masts and water tanks.
 

 
These planks are needed to support the pillars under the main deck.  As with the deck below, no further planking will be done on this deck.
 
The next picture shows some additional planks being installed on the cabin deck.
 

 
After having completed the drawing for arrangement of cabins, etc. on this deck the final amount of necessary planking can be set so those details can be constructed.  I don’t mind covering some of the structural detail in this area because some of it is based on assumptions and its authenticity cannot be verified.  The members – clamps, transoms - along the line of the main deck in this area will also be hidden by the cabins and related details as will the ends of the planking that are simply butted against the margin planks.  Cabin detail will be discussed later.
 
Ed

Jan-Willem
 
Here is a list of what I ordered from Chuck.  I was unable to dig up where I figured out my quantities - it may just have been a SWAG on my part.  I haven't started any rigging yet, so cannot claim any accuracy to what I ordered - we'll see what I run out of when I get around to the rigging.  I went with tan for the running rigging and black for the standing rigging, mostly because that is what I have put on models forever.
 
I hope the information is helpful to you.
 
Bob
 
 
 
008 (.20mm) Black Rigging Line - 20' per package - Linen/Cotton Blend
Quantity: 1

.012 (.30mm) Black Rigging Line - 20' per package - Linen/Cotton Blend
Quantity: 2

.018 (.45mm) Black Rigging Line - 20' per package - Linen/Cotton blend
Quantity: 2

.008 (.20mm) Tan Rigging Line - 20' per package - Cotton/Linen Blend
Quantity: 2

.012 (.30mm) Tan Rigging Line - 20' per package - Cotton/Linen Blend
Quantity: 2

.018 (.45mm) Tan Rigging Line - 20' per package - Cotton/Linen Blend
Quantity: 2

.025 (.63mm) Tan Rigging Line - 20' per package - Linen/Cotton Blend
Quantity: 1

 

A few simple sketches to show the details.
 
A and B.   Bow sprit cap fitting on the tenon
 

 
C.    A flat base added on top of the bow sprit.  One can simply plane down the top of the dowel, but the added base makes a more secure attachment for the bees.
 

 
D.    The "bees" are added to each side.
 

 
E.    Finally, cheek blocks are added to each side, which receive the fore topmast stay and preventer.  Slots cut in the base for access to the cheek blocks.
 

 
Completed bow sprit. Top view
 

 
Side view
 

 
Close up
 

 
A few more photos follow to put it in perspective.
 
 

BOW SPRIT
I've been asked about building the bowsprit, and on reviewing the photos (page 3 of this log), it is somewhat confusing. Though most of the photos were reentered after the crash of 2013, most comments were not. To explain, I'll duplicate some photos and add a drawing or two.  Of course, this is simply one way to do it.
 
Tapering the bow sprit with a "poor man's lathe" ( Hand drill in a cradle).
 

 
Bow sprit fitted at fore deck
 

 
Making gammoning "saddles."  Using another dowel of the same size, cut half way through.
 

 
One half thickness of the dowel removed.
 

 
Grinding out the center of the dowel.
 

 
Cutting saddles on a bias.
 

 
Gluing saddles in place,  Tenon fashioned at the forward end to fit square hole in the cap.
 

 
Saddles in place, "Iron rings" added and tenon at the right side.
 

 
Drawings to follow.
 
 
 
 

Hi, thanks for looking in.  I don't do fast work, but so far I've been happy with the results.
 
This weekend, I figured it might be time to finally install the ballast - rocks and barrels.  The instructions said to use 2-3mm rocks, and all I could find around my house were much larger, so I went to hobby shop and purchased a bag of rocks:
 

 
Next, I mixed a slurry of 50% water and 50% white glue and made a nice paste of the rocks.  This stuff will take hours to dry, so I had time to place it around the mast supports and glue the barrels in what I hoped is nice, mostly-realistic manner.
 

 

 
It was a fun diversion from rigging, but I fear I can put off the yards no longer.  Hopefully, my next update!
 
Andy.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 88 – Cabin Deck Framing/Planking
 
The cabin deck provided accommodation for senior officers and passengers.  In elevation, it was midway between the middle and poop decks – to provide increased headroom.  The deck occupies the area aft of frame 36.  It is just under 45’ in length on the centerline.  The first picture shows beams being fitted.
 

 
No details are known about the structure of the deck.  I have assumed scantlings equal to the main deck – beams 12” x 12”.  Also, since the structure is lighter and close to the deck below, I have omitted hanging knees.  The next picture shows all six beams installed and awaiting the lodging knees.
 

 
In the next picture, lodging knees, plain square pillars, carlings and ledges have been installed.
 

 
In the next picture 12” wide by 6” thick margin planks are being installed around the sides – again no details known, but a reasonable guess.
 

 
Because the main deck beam at frame 36 will be directly aligned with the beam for the cabin deck and because it is only a few feet above, the deck planking was installed next, while there was still access for drilling.  This work has begun in the next picture.
 

 
I use .021” diameter pins forced into tight holes to secure the planking for gluing.  The holes are then enlarged slightly for treenails.
 
I have yet to decide on the full extent of planking on this deck beyond the area of the cabins along the sides.  I expect to construct the partitions and built-in furniture for these.  More on this later.  The aft end of the main cabin between these rows of sleeping quarters will also likely be decked.  The next picture shows the completed planking in the cabin areas.
 

 
The planks are 3½” thick and 7” wide.  I did not take the trouble to cut these into the margin plank because bedsteads will cover the margin plank and the first few strakes of decking.  In the next picture, treenailing of decking on the port side has begun.
 
 
 
The first two rows have been nailed.  The third row has been drilled.  The treenails are 1½” (.021”) diameter Castello.  This has become the de facto standard size on the model.
 
Treenailing of the inboard side planking continues.
 
Ed

Finished bridges for boom ropes on deck and learned how to seize a line  . Quite a challenge in 1:100 scale  .
I will leave ship boats "project" for later and moving to masts, starting with Bowsprit. 

Next up - bowsprit continuation.  First shot shows the two bobstays complete,  I cleaned up the ends by trimming them closer and gluing the loose ends to the line after this picture was taken.
 

 
The guys were rigged in the same fashion.
 

 

 
I used strands of speaker wire to simulate the footropes.
 

 
Painted black and roughly shaped.
 

 
Attached the footropes - Oh look, I cut the upper guy!
 

 
Starting the stirrups - and my first experience with clove hitches.
 

 
All the stirrups tied on.
 

 
I used this "jig" to mark where to drill the holes for the jib stops.
 

 
A couple of jib stops being placed and given a "natural" hanging look.
 

 
The completed bowsprit rig.
 

 
Bob
 
 
 
 
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 87 – Middle Deck Inboard Planking continued
 
In the first picture the last strake of inboard planking on the port side is being installed – leaving the air strake above it.
 

 
Treenailing has begun on both sides.  The next picture shows some nails installed and holes drilled for the next group.
 

 
The treenails measure 1½” (.021”) in diameter and are drawn from long strips of Castelo.  The next picture shows the completed forward area above the middle deck.
 

 
The next picture shows a treenail strip being inserted into one of the aft deck beams – about to be clipped off.
 

 
The aft part of the middle deck is the first to be finished off so the beams of the cabin deck can be installed next.  The cabin deck is just a few feet above the middle deck.
 
 In the next picture the middle deck work in this area below the cabin deck is being given a coat of wax – below the clamps.
 

 
In the next picture the wax has sunk in and dried.
 

 
The aftermost cabin deck beam has been glued in.  The next picture shows another view of this.
 

 
The next step will be to fit the deck beams and their knees for the cabin deck framing.  Treenailing along the rest of the deck continues.
 
Ed
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 86 – Middle Deck Inboard Planking
 
Heavy members – standing strakes – 10” thick by 12” deep are fitted over the waterways and bolted through every frame timber to further reinforce the connection of the deck structure to the frames.  These members are joined along their length by hook scarphs as shown in the first photo.
 

 
These members were also bolted down into the waterways but I omitted these bolts because they will be covered by the next higher planks. 
 
In the next picture some of those planks are being installed and holes are being drilled for the standing strake bolts.
 

 
Note that the top strake being installed is notched for a drop plank to account for the widening planking band where the hull flares out at the bow.  The next picture shows a higher strake being glued in – wedged down to close the joint.
 

 
Standing strake bolts have been installed in this picture.  In the next picture, the next section of that plank is being glued – wedged and clamped in this case.
 

 
I did not bother to jog the planking joints in this work, because hanging knees will hide this detail.  Long planking strips were used and their joints placed under a knee location.
 
The next picture shows the completed planking – except for treenails – at the starboard bow.
 

 
The gap above the top plank is an “air strake” – left open to ventilate the space between frames above the keel.
 
The next picture shows the larger of the two fresh water tanks ready to be rigged into the opening in the decks.
 

 
In the next picture the tank is placed temporarily in position.  The top of this tank will be just below the main deck planking.  A smaller tank located just forward of this one has yet to be fabricated.
 

 
I did not go overboard in making these tanks.  They will be difficult to see at best.  I used the wood blocks shown earlier, some file folder and a ponce wheel for the rivets.  After assembly the paper was impregnated with dilute shellac and finished with flat black enamel.
 
The detail of the actual tanks, like many other things, is a bit of a mystery.  Webb’s Challenge had rectangular iron tanks so I followed that design.  I based the design for these on pictures from the JL Mott catalog from 1886.  Mott was the foremost New York ironmonger from 1828, making a large range of iron goods well into the 20th Century – a likely source for these tanks.  The catalog featured cast and wrought iron sectional tanks.  It is likely that these large tanks would have been of the wrought iron type – probably lead lined.  They were built up to the required size in formed modules.  The top and bottom manways are speculative.  No nozzles yet.
 
 
 
Ed

Here is another update. Some progress has been made on the deck fixtures and fittings.
 
Here is a look at the wheel box which still needs some sanding and another coat of paint along with a peek at the wheel.
 
The mainmast collar and the aft hatch is also nearing completion.
 
The windlass is getting there, but still needs a few fittings added and the axel trimmed. The bitts will be painted after the windlass has been fitted but not attached.
 
Questions and comments welcomed.
 
Russ

A little update to my slow going project. All deck items are painted and attached on model. Becouse deck is already varnished I used 5min epoxy glue + all parts are secured with pins. It was quite a chalenge to achieve correct position of holes on deck.
Next stage are two on deck boats in 1:100 scale. I will  scratch build them, but need to figure out how

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 85 – Middle Deck Binding Strakes
 
The binding strakes provided an additional reinforcement to the connection of the deck beams to the hull frames.  These 8” thick members, placed against the inboard face of the waterways, were bolted vertically into each beam and horizontally – edge bolted – through the waterway and each frame.  On the model I represented this bolting with monofilament – one down through each beam and one edge bolt above each ledge between beams.  There were probably twice this many bolts used on the real ship. 
 
The first picture shows the forward section of binding strake on the starboard side being glued in place.
 

 
The binding strakes were joined with hook scarphs as shown in the photo.  They were also rounded over or beveled down to the deck planking on the inboard side.
 
 In the next picture the joint measurements are being transferred to the end of the next section.
 

 
The length of the hook is being marked here,  The piece was cut back to the angle first.  The next picture shows the last section on the port side at the stern being fitted.
 

 
The next picture shows the binding strakes installed at the bow – ready for bolts.
 

 
The holes for the horizontal bolts were drilled before installation – those for the vertical beam bolts after.   In the next picture a length of monofilament is being glued in to represent one of the beam bolts.
 

 
After installation of the binding strakes the deck was given a final leveling with 220-grit paper as shown below.
 

 
This was followed by final sanding using 220 then 320-grit paper – by hand and using the detail sander shown in the last photo.
 

 
Next will be installation of the side inboard planking, starting with the heavy 10” x 12” standing strakes over the waterways.  Hatch coamings and some decking can also be started.
 
Ed

The other thing I started to work on but did not achieve the progress with which I would have liked to) is the test stand for the deck. I have identified 4 areas to test: cutting already mounted planks to size, trenailing, caulking and varnish.
 
I did not get to the testing itself, but I was able to create the test deck on a piece of scrap wood. The deck is 16cm long and 11 planks (33mm) wide.
 
The test deck:

 
As with the deck on the model, this deck was made of planks of different thickness:
 

 
As with the deck on the model, I have sanded the deck down to get an even, level deck:
 

 
I hope I will find the time to begin the testing soon…

Now some pictures of the finished monkey rail and bow rail. The last image is a first sanding of the deck. 
I hope to get my chain plates finished this weekend... and start the final painting of the hull.

Built my cradle (from a different scale kit of Billing Boats that was sent to me as the original was long lost). I just had to open up the notch to accommodate the keel and sand open the sides a bit.

Mike, Spyglass and John, thanks for your input. It has helped me immensely. 
 
I decided to go with the side tackle being horizontal so changed the drilling jig accordingly. The breaching tackle will be mounted lower and wider appart which I think fits in with what you guys are saying.
 
Re the blocks. They are rather meaty for these cannon but I decided to go with "off the shelf" blocks. The wood that I possess is too crumbly for making small blocks and (since I am only ever going to make one ship) I don't want to stock up with good quality wood that would get little use - a bit negative I am afraid. The smallest ones that I could lay my hands on were 2mm as in the photo.
 
John, glad you liked the loco models. When I get back to them I am/will be making models of actual locos that I saw and traveled behind in my youth. Nostalgia is not what it used to be.
 
 
Meanwhile, back in the workshop I stole and modified another of Dafi's ideas. Because the bulwarks are pretty inaccessible I made an extended drilling tool which can be fed through the gun port opposite to the one being drilled. With the usual no expense spared approach it is made from a kebab stick. The end is drilled to hold the bit. The other end I gripped with my normal collet holder to give a hand grip.   It is in the following photo along with the modified drilling jig.     It worked well - too well. The third hole that I drilled went straight through and out the other side of the bulwark. Pathetic really.   So I used some brass tube with an internal diameter that was an easy sliding fit over the bit and cut a length of it such that only 3mm of bit protruded beyond the end. This set the maximum depth of the hole.   The next photo is the tube alongside the bit.....     ....and with the tube fitted.     Drilling the holes was then simple. With the jig plugged in to the gun port the tool was used without the tube in place just to spot the 4 holes. Then the jig was removed, the tube fitted on the bit and the holes drilled to their final depth.   You can see on the jig that two of the original holes are blocked up and the new holes marked blue to avoid confusing myself.   The adjacent port has the holes already drilled.     Then it was time to fit the first rigged cannon. I went for one of the easier positions first. Using hooks in to rings actually made it much easier that I expected.   I fitted the side tackle in to the bulwark first (without the cannon in place) then roped them out of the way. The breaching ropes were fixed with the cannon in the run in position to give room to get at the ends of the ropes. Then the cannon was glued in place in the run out position. Finally it was just a case of dropping the side and train tackle hooks in to their respective loops/rings.   Of course I made a couple of boo-boos.   The first was that I had the cannon with its rear slightly too far forward so it was not directly in line with the train tackle. The second was that I used liquid super-glue to pin the breaching tackle to the deck in its final position. I had used the applicator on some blackened parts and I think it must have picked up some of the "black" (despite my burnishing the blackened parts). This was carried by the glue in to the rope and darkened that part of it. Doh. I will revert to dilute PVA for the ropes in future.   This all became apparent after everything was glued up solid.     Yet to be done on that cannon is to put some rope coils in place.   It is now going to be a lot more of the same. I have gone in to production line mode for the remaining cannon. I made a component list for all the bits I need to make for the rigging. It is amazing how their numbers build up. I will be rigging 16 of the 24 cannon and will require:   96 off large split pins 64 off small split pins 16 off deck rings 64 off hooks 96 off blocks 32 off caps   ...and of course another 15 cut splices for the breaching tackle. I may be some time.   In the meantime I am off to Anglesey for a week with my wife. Hopefully the weather will be kind to us.         
 
 

Here is a little more progress. I managed to make the wheel box today. Not too bad, but it still needs some sanding now that I look at the hi res photos.
 
Russ

Here is a little more progress. Got some time to work on some deck fixtures. There is still a good deal more fitting to be done. The corner joints on the hatch coamings still need some cleaning up and the coamings need to have their bottom edges cambered to match the deck.
 
Russ
 
 

Hi All,
 
Well in case you didn't notice I've been AWOL for a while now. August and the first week of September is really busy at work. 80 hours work weeks with no days off blah, blah blah. Boy that was no fun. I used to be able to do it no problem but now it kicks my butt. So it was work, sleep, dream of working on the Winnie and then back to work.  Once that was over  it was another week or so to catch up around the house with all the things that needed my attention.
 
So I've now looked at MSW and found 11 unread pages in the Kit Build Logs and 4 pages in the Scratch Build Logs. Not to mention, oops I just did, all the other topics!
 
So to all my friends out there I'm sorry I missed posting to your logs for the past 6 weeks and it may take another 6 weeks just to catch up.
 
Now that I've got my whining out of the way here is where I'm at.
 
I have not completed marking all of the bulkheads with the plank locations. That was over 1400 little pencil marks. I'm seeing little dashes in my sleep know.
 

 
I've now started on the planking and here you see my first attempt at spiling a plank. You can see the curve compared to a piece of strip wood.
 

 
 
Well I've now started the planking and will let you know how it goes.

At the moment I am lucid and able to think so I might be considered sane or normal.  The next thing was to work on the scaffolding.  This is when I really appreciate how delicate this stuff can be and taking very delicate cuts.  
The first thing was to identify and figure out out to do the job.


When getting this thin I was having trouble keeping everything stiff for a straight cut.  So most of it was done using straight edges.


The scaffolding in the front gave me the most problem in getting everything lined up. This involved quite  bit of trial and error until I was able to glue everything down.  I am also touching up the colors as I go.




So far so good.  
David B

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 84 – Middle Deck Waterways
 
The first picture shows the hull with the temporary ribbands removed and the toptimbers and upper futtocks cut down to final height.
 

 
The outsides of the upper hull have been given a light sanding.  The hull will be planked on this side down to slightly below the load water line.
 
With the middle deck framing complete, the next step was to install the waterways.  In the next picture the curved sections at the stern have been boiled and are clamped in place to dry overnight.  The same was done at the bow.
 
 

 
These are rough-cut waterways, unbeveled at this stage.  After drying they were cleaned up with sandpaper and beveled to lie flat against the angled aft frames.  Most of this was done on the disk sander as shown below, then trimmed by hand.
 

 
In the next picture the aft starboard section is being fit.
 

 
The unfinished port member is still in the clamps.  In the next picture the forward starboard section of waterway is being glued in.
 

 
The waterways are pretty massive – 15” x 15”.  They are bolted into each beam and through each frame with iron bolts.  On the model these are 22-gauge copper wire glued in with epoxy as discussed earlier.  The sections are joined by hook scarphs as shown in the next picture.
 

 
This area has not yet been bolted.  The next picture shows the last section of waterway being glued in.
 

 
This picture also shows wood blocks cut to the size of the two fresh water tanks and set on their bases in the hold.  The next picture is a closer view of these.
 

 
These blocks will probably be the fabrication bases for modeling these two iron tanks.  The larger of the two comes up to just under the main deck.
 
Next, the binding strakes inside of the waterways.
 
 
Ed

She is coming along nicely. About that "this depends on this, which requires that..." - you have discovered the true joy of model ship building - this is a theme you will repeat over and over again through almost every phase of the build!
 
Bob

Greetings,
 
Four cowl vent bases ready to be glued into position.
 

 
Cheers,
Tim