42rocker

Looks very nice.
 
I'm working on a cross section also. Someday I'll start a build thread.
 
Later Tim

Another thing that might be added to the above is something like
-- first posted I'll take it in the thread --  helps to stop some problems early on. I've seen some folks get real mad as to who really bought it because of an email or pm -- again posting on the thread I'll take it --  Good Thing.
-- Returns  --- Yes or No
 
Something for the site and reference -- leave the item that was sold and the price that it was sold for listed in the thread. A lot of items don't sell very often and having an type of price guide line is better than nothing.
 
My additional thoughts - ok, ideas from other sites I'm on.
 
Later Tim

Should have also added I would like to be 2nd in line if things don't work out. 34667.
 
Later Tim

Seems there are several of us Florida folks on this site.
 
Nice to also see the sharing. 
 
Later Tim

Looks very nice.
 
I'm working on a cross section also. Someday I'll start a build thread.
 
Later Tim

It's ok.
Used to be several ship modeling clubs in the Tampa Bay area. As I have been trying to stay home and get a lot of stuff done, I have not kept track. To many 1 to 1 scale things to get done also. 
Need to go cut some 1/2" thick Cherry for frames for a cross section I'm working on. After a few other projects that is. LOL
 
That was a NICE Share by the way! Good of You!
 
Later Tim

Should have also added I would like to be 2nd in line if things don't work out. 34667.
 
Later Tim

Seems there are several of us Florida folks on this site.
 
Nice to also see the sharing. 
 
Later Tim

Looks very nice.
 
I'm working on a cross section also. Someday I'll start a build thread.
 
Later Tim

Seems there are several of us Florida folks on this site.
 
Nice to also see the sharing. 
 
Later Tim

Very Nice work!
Thanks for sharing.
 
Later Tim

Now that I'm finished with the OREGON and WYOMING, I've started on the 1/64 scale 82' WPB kit.  This will be a typical BJ solid hull kit with laser, resin, britannia, and photo-etched parts.  Hull length is 15.5".  The intent is to create a kit that will allow the builder to replicate any of the 79 boats built.  The focus will be 82301, the first boat in the group, but will include additional basic details to modify it to later boats.  This will include different radar, towing gear, and deck details, plus stuff to do the boats in Viet Nam.  The hull master is done and Randy carved me a couple hulls with which to experiment.  I've templated one and added the skeg so far.  
 
This is the basic kit configuration - WPB82301.  That below, WPB82347 POINT BONITA, is one of the later boats.  A third general arrangement drawing will show a Viet Nam configuration.

A bit of a story here but this may help someone.
 
Today I needed to cut quite a lot of wood starting with some 13mm thick Castello.  It's been a while since I had changed my blade so I fitted a brand new Malco 4" 110T blade.  Now 13mm wood can be difficult to pass through with this blade and sure enough as I got almost through to the end of the blade it all jammed up.
 
So I did the rest of this job using a carbide blade which I don't like using as they are a bit brutal on the wood.  Next I needed to cut some 8mm wood and reverted back to the Malco blade and the exact same thing happened - I literally could not get anything passed the full width of the blade without the whole thing jamming up and stalling.  My lovely saw sounded like a cat in pain 🤣
 
So I thought that the fence must have somehow moved out of alignment so I checked it with a dial gauge and sure enough it was slightly off.  So I corrected this and tried cutting again.  This time it was even worse which really surprised me and I thought that I must have done something wrong setting the fence up.  So for the next couple of hours I must have set the fence at least 10 times and each time I could see that the alignment was perfect but the problem remained.
 
As a last resort I swapped the brand new Malco blade for a brand new Martindale blade - Problem cured!!!
 
I have no idea (I must change my forum name) what was wrong with the Malco blade as I put it back in again and I had the same problem.
 
So if you have this issue and just cannot see why  - swap the blade out even if it looks perfect.  It worked for me and as the fence is now probably the most perfectly aligned in the world the saw is back to its amazing self.  Needless to say the Malco blade became a frisby and is no longer in the house!
 
Cheers Mark

Hi Glenn thats was me mate and I stand by what I said.  I have found a few suppliers that can supply me blades but I buy mine from Jim and Donna.  I live in the UK and the postage is high but so what.  Support your supplier and they will be here for your children's children.  If you don't our amazing hobby will become a thing that people used to do.

Jim Byrnes now recommends Martindale blades, which I use on my Byrnes saw. A new blade from Jim costs $17, why fool around with old blades.  I maintain the saw as Jim recommends an periodically clean the blade with alcohol before much of anything builds up. I’ve had, and cared for, the saw for at least 20+ years and have had zero problems with it other than replacing the blades I use only twice during those 20+ years. 
 
I did cut through the stop on the cross cut table once, Jim sent me a replacement. As someone said, let’s support the maker of the best tools modelers could find and buy what we need from Byrnes Model Machines. 

I am posting this to tell forum members about reconditioning my Byrnes saw. In doing so I hope to help others wanting to improve the performance of this precision machine.
 
I don’t remember exactly when I bought my Byrnes table saw but I would not be surprised if it was 20 years ago. I must admit that it has not been an entirely happy marriage; burnt blades, stalling during cutting, kickbacks, etc.
So before tackling a new ship model project, I decided to see if I could improve its performance to the point where I could use it without getting frustrated.
 
I first gave the saw a good cleaning and a needed oiling of the blade adjustment mechanism.  I then made a simple bracket from aluminum angle that mounted via a #4 machine screw onto the slide of my miter gage.  My dial indicator could then ride back and forth along this slide to measure the parallax of the rip fence.  I found that the rip fence from the front of the saw to the approximate centerline of the blade spindle deviated from parallel by .006in.
 
To correct this I followed Jim’s procedure posted above.  All went well until I got to the last step.  Each time I loosened the front and back brass finger screws, slid the fence back and forth and retightened the brass finger  screws (front first) the fence measured.006in out of parallel.  It finally dawned on me that tightening the back finger screw was pulling the fence out of alignment.
 
I then went through the alignment procedure except loosening  the two #4 cap screws mounting the back mounting bracket to the fence instead the four #4 cap screws on the front bracket.  This solved the problem as the fence when slid and locked into place remained parallel.
 
I then tackled the blades.  Inventory revealed several Thurston I-192 and I-193  blades, all discolored with deposits of resin.  I began by scraping this off with a single edged razor blade, and cleaning with a Dremel rotary wire brush.  I later tried my wife’s fabric pre -treatment spray.  This loosened the deposit to where it was removed easily.
 
The blade teeth seemed sharp but were badly discolored.  A block of wood with a piece of 1/2in dowel made an effective fixture for holding the blade.  Each tooth was addressed with a small triangular sharpening stone followed with a triangular needle file.  As a final measure, a piece of abrasive cord was run through the gullet of each tooth.  Like dental floss!  I was surprised at the amount of black “gunk” that was removed.
 
Today I mounted a resharpened I-193 blade in my saw.  Using a block of wood to push a piece of 1/4in thick hard maple against the fence and using a push stick I easily sawed off two strips.  There was no discoloring or fouling of the blade. I cannot remember when the saw has worked this well.
 
Similar measurements on my10in table saw indicate that it’s fence is out of alignment by as much as .03in, five times that of the Byrnes saw, but its enormous power allows it to effortlessly chew through almost anything. The lower powered Byrnes saw and metal slitting blades requires much closer alignment.  In the future I will check it regularly.

Scrubby
 
The best way to square the fence is with a dial indicator if you have one or have access to one. The first set of instructions is for an indicator. The second set is for the machinist square. 
 
Dial Indicator
1.  Remove the fence extension, four 4-40 cap screws located at the corners, use a 3/32 hex            wrench.

2.  Clamp indicator to miter or cut a piece of hard wood 1/2 by 6" so it fits in the miter slot nicely
    and fasten the indicator to the wood.

3.  Loosen the front four, 4-40 cap screws on the front of the fence bar with a 3/32 hex wrench.
   Do not loosen the back 2 screws.

4.  Slide the fence up against the indicator point until the indicator spins
   1 revolution and lock the front fence block with the brass thumbscrew.

5.  Reset the indicator bezel to "0"

6.  Slide the indicator down the fence as far as the blade center. Do not go
   past the blade center, the fence starts to taper at blade center.

7.  Tap the rear fence block until the indicator needle is back on "0"

8.  Snug the rear fence block brass thumbscrew.

9.  Recheck the fence with the indicator

10.  Adjust the rear block as necessary by tapping it with a soft mallet

11.  Recheck the fence with the indicator

12.  Lock the rear brass thumbscrew

13.  Recheck the fence

14.  Tighten the front 4 capscrews

15.  Recheck the fence

16.  Loosen the front and rear thumbscrews and slide the fence away from the
     indicator.

17.  Slide it back to the indicator and lock the front thumbscrew and recheck
     the fence
ALWAYS LOCK THE FRONT THUMBSCREW FIRST.
Machinist Square
 
1.  Remove the fence extension, four 4-40 cap screws located at the corners, use a 3/32 hex wrench.

2.   Loosen the front and rear brass thumb screws.
3.  Loosen the front four, 4-40 cap screws on the front of the fence bar with a 3/32 hex wrench.
   Do not loosen the back 2 screws.

4.  Place the machinist square up against the front of the table with the beam up against the fence.  Don't worry about the back of the fence not being up against the square,  it has a slight taper to it.  The fence starts tapering at the blade center.

5.   Snug the front and rear brass thumbscrew.  Always front first.
6.   Tighten the front four 4-40 cap screws

7.  Recheck the fence with the square.  If everything is square lock down the front 4-40 screws.  If not adjust the fence until it is square.
8.   Take a few test cuts on some scrap.

 ALWAYS LOCK THE FRONT THUMBSCREW FIRST.
 
regards
Jim
 
 
 

I buy all of my blades from Model Machines I just tend to order quite a few at a time because its expensive to import into the UK.  My view is if I buy from the original supplier it keeps them in business.  I have too many friends who buy cheaper from China and then wonder why their favourite model supplier has gone out of business.  I had a load of blades from Jim about 6 months ago and they will keep me going for the next year

Jack
 
They are for aligning the fence during assembly
 
Jim

This is straight out of my head, so no pictures.
Most table saws that can do a rip cut that is other than 90 degree vertical - tilt the blade.
The Byrnes saw holds the blade vertical and tilts the table - the right of the blade part of the table.
Kurt and No Idea suggest that because of gravity and friction,  the wood can move away from the blade -because it  mostly rests on an angled surface.
They mimic the standard table saw by tilting the blade, and making the accessory table horizontal.  The rest of the saw goes with the blade.
The saw comes on its own base.  A heavy one.  They place wedges  under the base to angle it up.  I would want a stop at the right side edge to keep the saw from sliding.
 
My suggestion is more elaborate and only makes sense if a whole lot of beveled ripping is going to be done,  and if several angles are involved.
My picture:
Lay a book flat on a table. Turn it so that the top of the book is facing you and the spine is on your right.  Lift the front cover.
Imagine a small version of the saw sitting on the top cover.   The cover is lifted until the right side saw table accessory is horizontal.
 
Use plywood to make the two book covers.  Use a full size piano hinge as the book spine.   There are holes in each corner of the saw base.
Fix the saw base to the top piece of plywood.  As heavy as the saw is, I think two pieces of 1/2" ply will be needed.  The bottom needs to be wider than the top - enough beyond the hinge the the whole assembly does not flip sideways.
The threaded rod and nut are not needed actually.  A block of wood, square even will hold the top cover at the angle.  A way to fix it in place would probably be a good idea.  
 

If the object is to be able to get a precise and reproducible  saw tilt and this will be done frequently with multiple possible angles being cut:
 
Fix the machine to a two plywood sheet base.
Lower is a 1/2" - 3/4"  sheet.  width 3" or more wider than saw base on each side.
Upper is  1/4" sheet
The right edge of upper sheet is at the right side of the saw base.
The upper sheet is attached to the lower using a full size piano hinge.
The left side is as far beyond the base of the saw as is needed to fix a a threaded rod and thumb screw or wingnut to raise that edge.
There would probably need to be spacer pieces at the hinge and outer edges of the upper sheet that are a tad thicker than the thumb screw/wingnut.
 
Someone really OCD could fix the angle gauge from a adjustable miter -  or a stick with marks  at the front right at the hinge.
 
The down side is that it adds weight to an already hefty machine.
A 1" rubber stopper fixed under each corner of the base will provide space for fingers to lift the machine, if it just rents bench space and lives on a shelf.

I just purchased a blade adaptor from Jim Byrnes to replace the one I lost when it fell on the floor and rolled away.  He charged $5, and the shipping was very reasonable.  It just came in the mail, which means the one I dropped should turn up shortly.
 
 

I'm posting and pinning this topic as much of the info discussed about blades, etc. is contained in this.   This if from a former supplier of wood for ship models and he used the Byrne's Saw (aka the Jim Saw) for his products.  Much of the info in here (such as blade tooth count, etc.) is also valid for other desktop hobby saws.
 
He mentions in his text using Thurston blades but they quit the business and so this is recommendation for blades:   https://www.malcosaw.com/
 
I hope it's helpful....
Byrnes Saw Operation.pdf

Yesterday (19 March 13) the U.S. Supreme Court, in hearing arguements regarding the resale of copyrighted materials ruled those sales legal.
 
From the current article on CNN News:
 
"The Supreme Court has ruled that copyright owners cannot legally forbid people who buy their works to sell them in the US, even if the items in question were made outside the US. The decision upheld a geographically unlimited first sale doctrine — a provision which holds that once someone buys a book, DVD, or other work copyrighted in America, they're free to sell or rent it without the copyright holder's permission".
 
I'm certainly no lawyer, but this would seem to me to answer any question regarding the sale of CDs and DVDs (such as Bob Hunt's Practicums)to a 2nd party. I know this question has come up various times on MSW in regards to members who wished to sell one of his practicums.
 
This applies to original media, as far as I can tell. Members may want to read the entire article currently (03/20/13) running on CNN news. Other media outlets probably are carrying the story, as well.

HaHa
Just been using my Mitre as a thin strip jig on my Byrnes saw.  But I like the one above.  Might scratch build my own version.