augie

Just a small update.  Have gotten started on fabricating the remaining yards.  All have now been cut from round dowels, tapered according to the plans (using the drill as 'poor man's lathe) and several of the center sections made octagon in shape using thin wood strips which were cut and beveled to give 8 simulated 'sides'.
 
The method is not as elegant as I've seen from those of you who are able to start with square stock for your yards.  But it's my first shot and I am not displeased.
 
I will now be adding cleats then we'll stain everything to see where we stand before adding the glitter (blocks, iron bands and footropes).
 

 

Because its not on the Model Expo site yet....After many requests here it is by chapter

 

Introduction 

 

Chapter 1 

 

Chapter 2 

 

Chapter 3 

 

Chapter 4 

 

Chapter 5 

 

Chapter 6

 

Chapter 7 

 

Chapter 8

 

Chapter 9

 

Chapter 10

 

Chapter 11

 

Chapter 12

 

Chapter 13

 

Chapter 14 

 

Chapter 15

 

Chapter 16

 

Chapter 17

 

Chapter 18

 

Chapter 19

 

   THE END    

Objects and shapes? Pegs and Holes? It's only matter of practice. I'm going to begin my job, I've just bought the proper instruments :-)

the front and back yards look real good Augie, what kind of grass did you use ?

Really nice yards, Augie. Like you, I "know" that they should be made from square stock, but I continue to start with round and they come out just as good.
 
Bob

Mobbsie, LAMO!!! I've only built US and Canadian ships so I have no trouble with joint exercises. 

I KNEW it !!!!  The temptation of multi-tasking was just to great for you to endure.  Next you'll be taking a page out of Sjors' book and set off building a multi-national task force to pile up one upon the other   

Derek , good morning
 
The dead eye strop started as a pain, what i did was make a small hole using a 1mm drill bit where the pronges of the strops are fitted in the channel, then push the fixture into position with a pair of thin long nose pliers, worked a treat, to keep them in place a little dab of c/a glue, and covered with the outside strip

Just a small update.  Have gotten started on fabricating the remaining yards.  All have now been cut from round dowels, tapered according to the plans (using the drill as 'poor man's lathe) and several of the center sections made octagon in shape using thin wood strips which were cut and beveled to give 8 simulated 'sides'.
 
The method is not as elegant as I've seen from those of you who are able to start with square stock for your yards.  But it's my first shot and I am not displeased.
 
I will now be adding cleats then we'll stain everything to see where we stand before adding the glitter (blocks, iron bands and footropes).
 

 

Nope, Just saying that you must be a damn surgeon with that Sander, If I used it the entire starboard side would have been gone.
 
 

ERIC-  I recall that I got 2-3 planks in the jig at a time.  Since you're bending basically just the 1st and maybe second plank in each run (assuming your using 25 foot planks scaled down), you get into a sequence of bending, drying, actual planking  and you just roll along, mass production style.  Hope that makes sense.
 
For every curved plank at the bow, you're going to be laying 3 or 4 more almost straight ones as you work toward the stern (or vice versa).  So you are not soaking every plank and putting it in the jig to dry.  Also, working on both sides at the same time gives you plenty of time to let planks dry.  Unless you're going to plank the whole hull in one day    .
 
It makes sense once you start.

Page 1 was back in the Stone Age.  I had to go back myself and see what I might have said!!
 
The plank bending jig is depicted at the bottom of page 18 in Chuck's Practicum.  It is simply a board onto which is transferred the outline of the hull as viewed from directly overhead.  So you are looking down at the curvature of the bow through midships.  Along that curve I set in nails every inch or so protected with the shrink wrapping they use on wires (heat shrinkable).  That wrap keeps to nails from discoloring your planking.  You might want to lay in 2 parallel rows of nails so the planks are held firmly.
 
Once you have your plank spiled and ready to go, you soak it until pliable and set it, on edge, along the curvature of the nails.  Let it dry WELL and when you take it off it will hold the curve.  Then, with a few final adjusments and sanding, it will fall right in place on your hull.  By applying it after it has dried, it will not shrink after it is glued on the hull.  If you don't use the jig and simply glue a wet plank in place it will shrink and leave unsightly gaps which can be murder on a single planked hull (especially up here at Mile Hi where the humidity is usually VERY low.
 
Sounds complicated but one look at the photo in the manual gives you the idea.

Nice work Sjors, you will have to be VERY careful reaching around her now.
 
Ben

I can see the light, perhaps, at the end of the tunnel, but I try not to think that way.  I'm afraid it would me to rush things and do a sloppy job of the final rigging.  Over the weekend, for example, I only added 2 lifts to the main mast and rigged a couple of blocks.  I'm on step 3 of the running rigging.  I may finish that step next weekend, if I can get some time in.  I'll post photos, perhaps, at the end of each rigging step.
 
Thanks for stopping by - appreciate the comments.
 
Andy.

Wim, Sherry, Jean-Pierre, Grant, Mark, Aldo, Alex, Augie, Frank, Mobbsie, Wayne, Piet, Sarah, Buck .....
 
Dear friends,
 
There are times in life when a simple 'thank you' is so insufficiënt to express ones gratitude. For me this is one of those days.
 
Your invaluable support, understanding, encouragement, patience, confidence and your good luck wishes and the laughter have meant a lot to me during this period. It added a bright spot to my life.
 
Thank you again so much and take care,
 
Anja
 
'Friends are never apart. maybe in distance, but not in the heart'.

Hi all,
 
Not a lot of shipyard time over the Easter Weekend, with house guests taking up most of my time/attention.  Have managed a little progress with the Yards though.  I've added the octagonal sections to the yard centres, as well as the Quarter Boom irons (for the stunsl booms).  I decided to add both Sling Cleats and Stop Cleats to the yards.  These are not catered for within the kit instructions, but following the advice in Longridge (pp 199 - 203 and associated diagrams), I was able to work out what was needed and make up a spreadsheet to convert all the sizes to my scale of 1:90.  Adding these details at this scale presented something of a challenge, and so in some cases, there will be the "suggestion" of an item rather than the fact (for example the Snatch Blocks on the topsail yards).  While I am sure that Remco would likely be able to produce a working facsimile at this scale, we mere mortals will have to settle for an approximation.
 
Pics below to show some of the hardware added.  
 

 

 
 
All the yards have now received their first coat of paint.  After painting, there are a "few" blocks to strop and add before fitting to the masts.

Happy Easter, Keith - hope you had a pleasant day! 
 
Not a great deal of building today.  Needed to make some modifications to the shipyard to accommodate the build.
 
First step was to empty the bookshelf next to the workbench and convert for tool storage.  The ECB will now reside on top of the desk until other space clears out (that is, if I ever finish the Harriet Lane and Detector...)
 

 
A different bookshelf emptied and relocated - nautical books now reshelved.
 

 
I invested in a second set of plans - nearly ready now to glue the first keel pieces and get underway!
 

This 1817 drawing may provide some insight
 

 
The following two paintings are reasonably contemporary (early 19th century)
 

 

 
This last one is from a US Navy War of 1812 special web section. No info on artist or when painted.
 

 
 

During the development of signaling systems in the 17th and 18th century various positions were employed to hoist flags to. i.e: trucks, tops, yardarms, gaffs.  Often the same flag flown in different positions would indicate different signals.  For example a flag flown at the fore top might mean "close the enemy and lay alongside" while the same flag flown at the main top might mean "general chase".  Sometimes there were very few types of flags available for use and national ensigns and admirals distinguishing flags were used for signaling purposes.  The fleet admiral was responsible for setting out the signal system he wanted to use in his standing orders to the fleet.   
 
As far as getting flags aloft without fouling the rigging, when I was a signalman in the Navy we sometimes sent flags aloft on the halyard rolled and tied with light twine.  When the flag reached the block a quick tug on the halyard would break the twine allowing the flag to fly free.  We often did this with the admirals flag and the break was timed to the bosuns pipe during side honors as the admiral came aboard.
 
For your flags.  The National Ensign should fly from the spanker gaff, the admirals flag from the main truck, the "don't tread on me" jack from the jack staff on the bowsprit, and the signal flags denoting the ships call sign will fly from the fore yard arm.  If you are flying all these flags it would indicate that your ship is anchored or moored at pierside.  The jack is only flown when moored or at anchor and the call sign is flown only while entering or leaving port or sometimes while moored.
 
Henry

Time for a small update.  Didn't want Andy to sail off without some fond memories.
 
We have ventured into the realm of running rigging (the brown stuff) with the installation of the spanker boom and gaff.  Their addition has certainly filled out the stern.
 
It was a little hard getting the right background but I think you'll get the idea.  She has now reached her full LOA.
 

 

 

 
Will be moving forward now with topmast halliards, etc. before we get to YARDwork  .

Thanks very much for that detailed explanation Robert, I appreciate it

Hi Frank,
 
Wow! That's some remarkable progress you've made my friend, splendid rigging work, plus those furled sails really bring your ship to the next level, and now working rigging... genius my  friend, that's pure genius

I don't remember the last time i did something like that.   as a young lad......I lived for fishing.   used a drop line until my teen years...my uncle gave me my first pole......six footer with an open face reel.

Commander Sjors, SIR! Admirable work on this fine vessel! She is a pretty thing to see, and what's that - did you bring her down to the kitchen?????
 
Well done - a beauty to behold.

No worries Sherry,
 
We are only shooting with words…..
I don't want to damage that rowing boat from Augie…..