Altduck

Very nice job on the wheels, and the stars on the axle covers are an excellent finishing detail.

Well done

Richard

"I then told them i had already replaced the timber and that they should have better quality control and they didn't bother to reply."

Well, even tho they didn't reply, I'm sure they were most grateful for your input.

Yeh, Right. 

Frank,

The Cobh Heritage Center

http://www.cobhheritage.com/

has a mock-up of the emigrant quarters on a "coffin ship" that may be of use if you can get historically accurate details from them or at least photos of their exhibit for the furnishings, dress, etc.

Richard (that's my Irish bride in the photo)

If you get the Optivisor, I use the "Quasar" LED Lightattachent:

http://www.amazon.com/Quasar-Led-Lighting-System-Optivisors/dp/B0058ECQ46

Or other sources have it;

It has 6 LED'S around the edges so gives uniform shadowless light on your work.

I'm just getting started in model building but have used it for years for clock repair.

Don't get the single light Xenon bulb attachment - bulky, sticks out so it bumps things if you are working close & can throw shadows.

Richard

Ken,

Nice recovery - looks good, and well worth the work.

Richard

Anybody ever try this chrome plating kit from MicroMark? (I haven't)

http://www.micromark.com/plug-n-plate-copy-chrome-plating-kit,8327.html

They say it'll work on steel, copper, bronze, brass & tin

Richard

Art

My point was that while the cased model and artist's rendering were green, the full scale reproduction vessel, and the written intent of the cased model makers was red below the waterline.

So it seems to me like red would be the better choice .

But as is often said on this forum, "you're the captain".

Richard

On the Lannon page with the cased model, the TEXT says "The hull is painted black above the waterline and red below. "

And on the other page, the artist's version is green but the actual boat in the water is red.

Richard

Marisstella is a sponsor of MSW; they are listed on our home page done the right side, and here's a link:

http://www.marisstella.hr/index.php?lang=eng

Richard

I meant to say it'd be weak if made of wood; brass should be just fine.

Richard

Looking at your final version, the Amati brass pin, it looks like the shank must be less than 1mm (scaling it on the screen it's maybe 0.8mm), pretty small and structurally weak for tying anything to.  I assume that's why the wood ones are a bit on the chubby side.

I always like to see detailing like you've done here.

It reminds us that living, breathing sailors manned these ships (with the rats)

Richard

Mike

You may have seen this already, but if you are considering a new scroll saw, this discussion may help:

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12353-scroll-saw-choice/

Richard

Dafi,

re your calculations:

=========

"1440 minutes / 133 men = 10,5 minutes/man per day. This means no second wasted and the next user always stand by. 

Very nice rigging work; where did you get the rope? It's very "unfuzzy"

Richard

Very nicely thought out, planned and built.

Well done.

Richard

Ron

This outfit was mentioned in another discussion - forgot which one or where.

http://www.specialshapes.com/angles.html

They may have what you want in Brass shapes.

You're building a beautiful model - she deserves an equally nice case.

Richard

Smart use of down lighting to highlight the contours, and the reveal on the top of the wale.

Thanks for pointing out that that was how you did this.

And I'll add my complements to others - it looks great.

Richard

Note also Marc Mosko's more lengthy explanation here:

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12679-whats-going-on-with-model-expo/

My hat is off to him and all the other small businessmen and women who have the interest, skills and fortitude to persevere for the rest of us.

Richard

In the first photo, it looks to me like the trunnions are sitting too high on the carriage - the centerline of the trunnion should be even with the top.  If this is the case, you might be able to deepen the notches to lower the cannon a bit.

Richard

Engineer57

My sister and Brother in Law live in Columbia and he said they already had 18"+ on the morning of the 23rd.  Don't know what his final total was.

She loves it - he hates it.

Good Luck,

Richard

Wouldn't the "cylinder part" be the part that was the edges of the punched out plug, that was within the sheet and never colored to start with?

another Richard

Just a thought - is that brass piece supposed to be the Bow chain roller?

Big Al

Yes, there are.  Use the search facility that is accessed by the little gear symbol in the top right of the MSW page (not the "options" gear wheel on your browser) which will take you here:

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums

then fill in these fields, (ignoring the others):

Find words - bireme

search in - forums

match - Only search in titles

Find in forums - Members build logs

Display results - posts

then click on "Search Now" and I got 3 Amati builds and a couple others

Good Luck,

Richard

Old Man,

Do you get pleasure and enjoyment from the hours you spend on your models?

Do you get satisfaction from finding and reusing scrap materials?

Does this hobby and methodology fit your interests and budget?

If yes, then you are doing it EXACTLY the right way for you.

Enjoy it.

Regards,

Richard