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Kelp

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Everything posted by Kelp

  1. Hi Tom, What is your opinion regarding the KA upgrade set? I see it costs about the same as the model and was wondering if it is worth getting. Are the photo etch sheets an improvement over the kit photo-etch sheets? I see having the wood deck and brass masts are a definite improvement. How about the resin parts, do you need to look closely to see the improvements over the kit plastic parts, or are the improvements obvious? Thanks, Don
  2. Evan, You are creating an excellent build log! The diagrams are really helpful towards explaining the work you are doing. All the Best with building this model. I’m looking forward to continuing to see your progress. Don
  3. Hi Evan, I am really looking forward to having a front seat to watch your progress through this beautiful model. Yes, it’s a tragedy ship, but with the KA set, you will have the opportunity to put your modeling skills to this test to tackle a challenging model, which will give awesome looking results when completed. I’m sure your daughter will treasure this model. What a great gift! All the best with your progress! Don
  4. Hi Jake, Did your Victory kit have laser cut bulkheads or did you have to cut them out with a saw? I have the old pre- laser cut version and since you mentioned your kit is about 30 years old, I’m trying to guess how old my kit is. Thanks, Don
  5. Hi Spyglass, This is an old Sergal HMS Victory kit. Back from the days before laser cutting. I still have to cut more bulkheads on the scroll saw this weekend, but can then do a dry fit. I think the lower decks may help the correct the warping. If not, I’ll trace this bulkhead and cut another one. Thanks, Don
  6. Thanks for all of the good suggestions. I’ll be putting a couple of these ideas to use. Don
  7. Any suggestions on how to flatten this warped plywood bulkhead? Thank you, Don Any suggestions on how I can flatten this warped plywood bulkhead? Thanks, Don
  8. I have installed the Original Ships in Scale CD's onto my hard drive. The new NAV.htm file is working fine. My question is about using "Browse Issues". When I click on Browse Issues I only get the list of magazine photos from 1983 to 1987 (the first disc). Does anyone know how to fix this to be able to also get the list of magazines from 1988 to 1993? Thanks, Don
  9. Same with the Titanic. The Trumpeter model is beautiful, but I’m not sure if I’d like to look at a ship that had such a historic tragedy in my house every day. Maybe Trumpeter can come up with a large scale Queen Mary? Yves, good luck with your build. It looks like it will be a fun project, with all of the parts and detail. I’ll pull up a seat and enjoy watching your build. Don
  10. Tom, Looking forward to watching your build of this kit! Don
  11. Your model is looking great! Nice job on the coppering. It’s worth the time and effort. Can you tell me how many sheets of plans came with the kit? I’m thinking of purchasing a used kit and would like to have an idea of the number of drawings that should be included. Thanks, and keep on with your nice work! Don
  12. Your model is off to a good start. It looks like it was nicely built. Feel free to ask the folks here when you are ready to repair the damaged areas. You will get good advice on repair techniques. I’m sure the damage can be fixed where it will be hard to see the repaired area, with care and patience. Where you able to get the rest of the kit, including the masts and yards? A couple of good books about the Victory with lots of helpful drawings are The Anatomy of Nelson’s Ships by Longridge, and the Anatomy of the Ship HMS Victory (author?). These are pretty easy to find and may even be at your local library. I like seeing models like this get saved. Best of luck with the Victory! I’m looking forward to watching your progress. Don
  13. Thanks for the tips on removing the triangles. Don
  14. I like the bulwark stanchions you’ve added. It’s a big improvement over the triangular shapes that were molded on the hull. What did you use for cutting off the triangles? Any technique for removing them? Excellent model! I enjoy watching your progress. Don
  15. Pre-spiled wood would probably be good for a beginner’s first kit, to get the person familiar with the techniques of working in wood. Making the wood pre-spiled would probably more likely enable the person to finish his/her kit and to then be encouraged by the final result to continue with the hobby and then attempt a kit a next step up in difficulty as a next project. Don
  16. You are doing a very nice repair, Sir. A complex job, but it is coming out very nice. Best of luck with this project. Don
  17. Hi Ken, I see you also had the brass plating pieces for the upper part of the hull (see post #22). The drawings say to cut out the square scuppers with an exacto blade. This Seems a little dangerous. Is this how you cut out the scuppers or did you use another method? Also, I did a dry fit of the plates around the bow and the fit seems to be off a little. Did you need to reshape these brass pieces around the bow? Thanks, Don
  18. It’s looking really good Bob! The green you used looks just like the green on the real ship. I’ll be watching your progress on this model. Don
  19. Hello Ken, On your post #12, third photo down, did you scratch build the axes on the black shields, or did these come in the kit? If brass, did they come in one of the small plastic envelopes? I'm having trouble finding them (probably do to their size). Thank you, Don
  20. Hi John, I just noticed your question on converting the Gorch Fock to the Eagle. I was thinking of probably doing the same. Did you get any information regarding converting since the time you posted? Thanks, Don
  21. Steve, You did a fantastic job on your Victory! One question, was the stern gallery of windows the brass version or the laser-cut wood version? Nicely done! Don
  22. Dan, You're doing a great job on this kit! Very nice planking and painting. What type of paint did you use? Is the yellow a yellow ochre? Don
  23. Hi Bill, I used a koh-i-noor rapidograph technical drafting pen to fill in the black areas for the stern and quarter galleries. I painted the yellow first and then filled in the black areas. I'm not sure if UV rays fade the ink, but so far it looks good after a few years. I used permanent black ink. If you have not used one of these pens before, don't press too hard, the pen tips for this size pen are delicate. I used a 3x0 size pen. A 2x0 would probably also work. You also need to clean the ink from the inside of the pen if you don't plan on using the pen again for awhile, otherwise, the ink will dry up inside and make it very hard to clean, and in bad cases, unusable. Has anybody else used these pens for small areas? How were the long-term results? Don
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