Kelp
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Everything posted by Kelp
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Hello Ken, On your post #12, third photo down, did you scratch build the axes on the black shields, or did these come in the kit? If brass, did they come in one of the small plastic envelopes? I'm having trouble finding them (probably do to their size). Thank you, Don
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Hi John, I just noticed your question on converting the Gorch Fock to the Eagle. I was thinking of probably doing the same. Did you get any information regarding converting since the time you posted? Thanks, Don
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Steve, You did a fantastic job on your Victory! One question, was the stern gallery of windows the brass version or the laser-cut wood version? Nicely done! Don
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Dan, You're doing a great job on this kit! Very nice planking and painting. What type of paint did you use? Is the yellow a yellow ochre? Don
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Hi Bill, I used a koh-i-noor rapidograph technical drafting pen to fill in the black areas for the stern and quarter galleries. I painted the yellow first and then filled in the black areas. I'm not sure if UV rays fade the ink, but so far it looks good after a few years. I used permanent black ink. If you have not used one of these pens before, don't press too hard, the pen tips for this size pen are delicate. I used a 3x0 size pen. A 2x0 would probably also work. You also need to clean the ink from the inside of the pen if you don't plan on using the pen again for awhile, otherwise, the ink will dry up inside and make it very hard to clean, and in bad cases, unusable. Has anybody else used these pens for small areas? How were the long-term results? Don
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Thank you Mark, Don
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I have a couple of questions regarding the placement of dummy cannons. My kit has the vertical wood pieces that the dummy cannon are attached to. We are supposed to drill a hole in the wood piece to fit the end of the cannon. I am guessing I would need some sort of "gummy" glue that has give to connect the cannon to the wood? What is the best type of glue to use for this? The cannons are made of brass. Also, any suggestions for how to brace and center the cannon at the gunport while the glue is drying? Thanks, Don
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Kathy, you did a wonderful job of building the Star of India. It's always good to see a Star of India model. Nice photos too! Don
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Nice work on the Sea Witch. You were asking about brightwork. It means to leave the wood in it's natural color, usually varnished. Looking good! Don
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Hello Daniel, Wonderful HMS Victory! I took a look at the way you did the coppering on the hull and am thinking of doing the same for my 1/96 scale Revell Cutty Sark, which has the individual copper plates engraved on the plastic, like your Heller Victory. How long of a length of copper tape did you use for each row of plates? Did you overlap the tapes, or was the plastic that was engraved on the hull the same width as your tape? On the Cutty Sark, the plates are engraved at 1/8 inch, so I don't think there will be any overlapping if I use 1/8 inch tape. A final question: Is the copper tape still sticking well to the model? Thank you , Don
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Thank you Wefalck. I will take a look at Dafi's HMS Victory build. I plan on leaving the copper as it's natural copper color and letting it tarnish like an old penny. I have used the tape before on wooden models and like the natural finish look. Don
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Has anyone tried using the adhesive copper tape on plastic kits? How were the results? I was thinking of trying it out on my 1/96 Revell Cutty Sark sometime in the future. Thanks, Don
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Hello Joe. Nice job working on this model! I really like how you painted the gold. What is your technique for painting the gold (what size brush, method, etc.)? Don
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Vladimir, You have done fantastic work on the Cutty Sark. I feel like I am looking at the real ship! Congratulations on a beautiful model. Don
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Hello Art, On the kit hull, there appear to be nine portholes between the bottom two full hull length rows of portholes. Are these in fact portholes, or something else? I don't see them on the TRMA sidelight diagram on your build site and can 't see them on photos. I was just wondering if I should drill them out Thanks, Don
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Hi Allan, The Danmark is looking great! I look forward to seeing the progress of this model project. With the bowsprit attached, how long is the model? Don
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I need to cut some small brass strips and was wondering if exacto saw blades are used for cutting metal, or wood only? I also have wire cutters I could use. Any other suggestions? Thanks, Don
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Hello, I plan on doing a scratch-build of the Eagle some day in the future and am in the research, information gathering stage. Would anyone here happen to know the type of lifeboat that is being used on the Eagle? Thanks, Don
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Hello, I plan on doing a scratch-build of the Eagle some day in the future and am in the research, information gathering stage. Would anyone here happen to know the type of lifeboat that is being used on the Eagle? Thanks, Don
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Nice job painting the stern! Don
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Thanks Druxey, Chuck, and Jud for for your replies. Chuck, thanks for the drawing. I'll follow your advice and add the wale locations. Don
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I am marking the locations of the planks for my second planking layer. The midship length gives me a total of 25 planks needed. According to literature, it seems that I'm supposed to divide the total length of each bulkhead by 25 at each bulkhead to get the width needed for the planks at that bulkhead, For instance, a full 7 mm plank width at midship and then tapering in width to bulkhead #1 near the bow. As you can see on the photo, the garboard strake (plank #25) does not naturally seem to reach bulkhead 1. The curve would appear too sharp and unnatural. I'm not sure if I'm measuring the plank widths for bulkhead 1 correctly. Should I have another measuring line at the end of the garboard strake and divde by twenty four along that lline? Any suggestions? Thank you, Don B.
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Jaager and Black Viking, Thank you for your comments. I agree that the three butt shift looks better than a four butt shift , and to me, it looks much better than a two butt shift. Unless I find out that a three shift is definately wrong, that's what I'll use. Don
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There is not much information that is available on the deck planking butt shifting pattern for Spanish ships of the late1600s. I'm building the San Felipe of 1690 and the plans indicate a 2 plank shift. Any suggestions? Thanks, Don
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