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mikec

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Everything posted by mikec

  1. Beautiful, neat work. Something no one seems to mention: the short end of the shroud seizes foward round the deadeye on the starboard side, and aft on the port side. Easy fix at this stage if you havn't done it this way. Just checking. Cheers Mike
  2. Thanks for all your kind words and encouragement. I am now assembling the jeer blocks (courtesy of Chuck) and will put the deadeyes in the main shrouds. Before "ratting down" Post pics later this weekend cheers Mike
  3. here are some more detail shots. You will also notice I have test fitted the lashings for the jeer blocks. The last pic shows the main top with shrouds rigged at the top ready to recieve the deadeyes.
  4. I have made further progress. I have rigged the catherpins and the futtock shrouds. I used 1mm hat elastic, and it worked perfectly. I was able to get lovely tension on the catherpins and the Futtock shrouds. it tightened the whole rigg up beautifully. Also when the futtock shrouds were siezed to the composite stays it has added strength the area where the rope and hat elastic were joined. The result is very realistic to the naked eye.
  5. I am getting confused now. I will stick with AOTS. I am still trying to find out about the leading top gallant stay as to wether it was served. I have posted some new pics as to where I am at.
  6. Fantastic work. Your shrouds look brilliant! I am roughly at the same stage as you. I find it fasinating watching your progress, and then seeing mine, using two completely different approaches- trying to achieve the same result. Mine is totally expeimental (using composit materials) so far it seems to be working. I will post soon.
  7. Yep thats what I have discovered too. I will do The same. i will go and have a look what Lester did and Pat
  8. And the lanyards... Hmmmm Sometimes the macron shots make the workmanship look poor, it is magnified so much. But to the naked eye it looks clean, sharp and pretty realistic. I just wanted to show the level of detail I am trying to achieve.
  9. Thanks for all the likes guys, and Pat, hope you are feeling well enought to get back to the shipyard soon. Here is some more pics with the foremast set up and details of the shroud lanyards and seizings. Thanks for looking guys.
  10. She is looking fantastic. How are you going to rigg the mainstay? To an eyebolt in the deck? Or as per the freemantle replica?
  11. More pics of the shrouds and the forestay. This has been wormed and served using using the traditional method and is not a composit. Thanks again Steve for the the mouse...
  12. Have spent a fair bit of time in the shipyard. As you know I have discovered "hat elastic" makes a fantastic and realistic subsititute for served rope. I have managed to Join Rope and the hat elastic together to create the served top sections of the shrouds. The elasticity allows you to apply excellant tension. I am very please that my experiment has worked. Thanks to Steve for the mouse technique.
  13. Thanks for the info. I will post some pics of my progress soon. i am a little bit behind you.
  14. You are doing an amazing job with the rigging. I am starting work on this stage too. Can you please tell me what size rope for the futtock shrouds and catherpins are you using?
  15. Looks absolutely brilliant. What size rope for the forstay and pendants please? Mouse looks great to me.
  16. Hello to a fellow kiwi. Fantastic build you have going here. Iam glad I stumbled across it.Absolutely magnificent. I will now fpull up a seat and watch the instalments. cheers Mike
  17. Great start . I like the tip about using toothpick as a miniature dowel. I have purchased this kit to build after my endeavour. I will follow with interest. Cheers Mike
  18. Absolutely brilliant idea re mouse. that should go on the front page of this website.
  19. the same thing happened to me with my Victory.. two steps forward one back. And I also found that Chucks hooks snap under tension. so care is needed. Keep up with the fantastic work.
  20. Thanks for the reply Fam, yes I could do that, but I want to rig it authentically if possible. I am trying to find out the correct method...
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