samueljr

Bob,
 
Looks great!
 
Just think if those were individual plates?!
 
I was hallucinating (lol) by time I finished the hundreds of pieces I put on...............
 
Sam

Bob,
 
Looks great!
 
Just think if those were individual plates?!
 
I was hallucinating (lol) by time I finished the hundreds of pieces I put on...............
 
Sam

Thanks Bob,
 
I'm going to practice a bit and then give it a try on my latest project. 
 
Bob, I'm certain you know this but I'll throw it out here for anyone else reading that may not - once last "thought" on the use of clear /dull coat on the copper. One coat is really all that should be used I've found. The liquid (either spray or brush on) is actually sitting on top of the copper tape. There's little (or no) absorption so more than one coat is just building up the product on top of itself and can lead to a very muddy appearence that isn't very natural looking. 
 
Sam

Okay, so I wasn't really happy with the last version of the shroud cleats.  I was being lazy and thankfully Mobbsie called me on it - thanks mate! 
 
So this morning I had another crack.  As I'd already prepared another piece of stock with the basic saw cuts, it didn't take much additional work.  I widened the dados in the side, and filed the curves in again.
 
Here's the results of the latest effort (not yet stained black):
 

 

 
And here's a comparison of the new (on the left) with the previous version (on the right).  I've included a metric ruler as a reminder of just how small these things really are.
 

 
I think these are much better, but I'd value any and all opinions.  Do I go with these, or is it back to the drawing board?
 
I would be reluctant to try and make any parts thinner as I'm already down to 1mm square on the "feet' that will attach to the shrouds.
 
Waddayareckon?
 

Don't think you can unquestionably annoint a kit better then others of the same subject matter (for the most part).  Granted there will some kits that are so lacking that they are lesser "raw product". Once you start comparing the legitamate kits it's all the same - it comes down to the builder.
 
Give a less skilled or novice builder Caldercraft's VICTORY (for example) do you think it would look better than say Grant's Mamoli VICTORY - No.
 
If you're just trying to determine which kit offers better fittings, wood, instructions, etc. you can do that. That wont gaurentee the end product - ultimately the builder will. 

Don't think you can unquestionably annoint a kit better then others of the same subject matter (for the most part).  Granted there will some kits that are so lacking that they are lesser "raw product". Once you start comparing the legitamate kits it's all the same - it comes down to the builder.
 
Give a less skilled or novice builder Caldercraft's VICTORY (for example) do you think it would look better than say Grant's Mamoli VICTORY - No.
 
If you're just trying to determine which kit offers better fittings, wood, instructions, etc. you can do that. That wont gaurentee the end product - ultimately the builder will. 

Well I'm Done!
 
Here are the final pics of this delightful little project............
 
I thought about listing all the changes/substitutions/additions/subtractions I made but that was turning out to be a rather long list. So, if anyone has any questions about a particular aspect feel free to ask.
 
I will say just a couple of things; 
 
First everyone should build something out of their usual subject matter on occasion. It's refreshing. It's also a chance just to relax without worry of screwing up months (if not years) of work and expense. Sometimes we get too hung up on Frigates and scarph joints and nail holes and wood types and guns and every other large and (extremely) small details found out here that we just forget to have fun. 
 
As a lot of you know I'm going through a (trying) time with a Frigate that will go unnamed and I found this side project to be just the diversion needed to remind just how much fun I have building for building sake. She's not perfect (far from it) but I'm just as proud of her as any of my builds that have a ribbon or medal to their credit.
 
Also it gave me the chance to correspond with some new and great people on MSW that I generally wouldn't be in contact with for any number of reasons. There are some really super folks out here.
 
Last but not least THANKS to Chuck for a great idea and kit design. 
 
Sam
 

Augie
 
The dull coat worked great (as far as I'm concerned)
 
here's a couple of pics of ESSEX after being dulled..............
 
compare then to the non dull shots of Bob's
 
Sam

Thanks Bob,
 
I'm going to practice a bit and then give it a try on my latest project. 
 
Bob, I'm certain you know this but I'll throw it out here for anyone else reading that may not - once last "thought" on the use of clear /dull coat on the copper. One coat is really all that should be used I've found. The liquid (either spray or brush on) is actually sitting on top of the copper tape. There's little (or no) absorption so more than one coat is just building up the product on top of itself and can lead to a very muddy appearence that isn't very natural looking. 
 
Sam

Augie
 
The dull coat worked great (as far as I'm concerned)
 
here's a couple of pics of ESSEX after being dulled..............
 
compare then to the non dull shots of Bob's
 
Sam

Augie
 
The dull coat worked great (as far as I'm concerned)
 
here's a couple of pics of ESSEX after being dulled..............
 
compare then to the non dull shots of Bob's
 
Sam

Augie
 
The dull coat worked great (as far as I'm concerned)
 
here's a couple of pics of ESSEX after being dulled..............
 
compare then to the non dull shots of Bob's
 
Sam

Hi Every One
 
Thought I'd update you on the correction process
 
After talking with Eric at Expo a while back it was decided that not only would I address any individual bulk head issues (which have been identified) that I would also widen the slots on all the bulk heads. This will / should account for the heavier stock which is now being used. I'll also be drawing a second former that will present the drop down decks already cut-out. I'll also be reducing the tab sizes for easier release.
 
Subsequently I find myself  re-drawing ALL the bulkheads and the new stuff. This has to be incorrorated into the plans (not a lot of room left on the sheets) and the manual. Also some other initial parts that are dependant related to the bulk head assembly.
 
Suffice it to say this is beyond the simple re-work and is taking a bit longer.
 
On a positive note I have almost completed going through the laser cut parts and have not found  any issues of note against those parts that were used on the proto-type/ I'll have to finish matching drawings and manual but hopefully (God willing) the issues were contained to the bulk head assemblies and some minor misprints on the plans.  The manual will follow along.
 
A "friendly" reminder - remember that dislike of design or process, parts, plans or componants is not an erorr - just a personal opinion and this isn't an open design.
 
I expect some test parts back from Expo in a couple of weeks. I'll update at that time. 
 
To those who have been assisting me off forum - we'll talk very soon.
 
Sam
 
 
 
 

Augie
 
The dull coat worked great (as far as I'm concerned)
 
here's a couple of pics of ESSEX after being dulled..............
 
compare then to the non dull shots of Bob's
 
Sam

Augie
 
The dull coat worked great (as far as I'm concerned)
 
here's a couple of pics of ESSEX after being dulled..............
 
compare then to the non dull shots of Bob's
 
Sam

Augie
 
The dull coat worked great (as far as I'm concerned)
 
here's a couple of pics of ESSEX after being dulled..............
 
compare then to the non dull shots of Bob's
 
Sam

Moving ahead at a faster pace caused by unusual weather (13" of rain that caused local flooding that pretty much trapped us in our house for a couple of days), the first copper has been applied to the hull.
 
After some experimenting , I decided to try something a little different. Rather than cutting the copper tape into individual plates, I chose to apply the tape in long strips (two or three for the length of the hull). I then burnished the strips with a piece of stripwood and then scribed in the plate division lines. The last step is to use a stamp made of a piece of wood with headless nails to simulate the plate nailing pattern. Because of the scale, I didn't attempt to to do the actual pattern, but like so many other things on the build, used a pattern that seemed to look "right". There is a slight overlap of the tape strips.
 
I found it very hard to take decent photos of the copper because of the glare and reflection and apologize for the quality of  those attached. Now it's back to applying what seems to be an endless expanse of copper.
 
Bob

it's Sjor's fault.........he let the cat out of the bag :D      ..........just a couple pictures of her progress??.......looks like you've done some railing work      I've been itching to bring mine back out........what,  with the Holiday Harbor planking,  and the deck dilemma with the United States.......I haven't had the time to do so  {I want to do the deck railings and ladders}.    I'll look forward in seeing your first 2014 update

Thanks to everyone for the kind words.
 
Jax - where I'm at Hell DID freeze over and then some................
 
Rusty, the sails are actually paper. It's a type of sketch pad that is readily available at any office supply store. The process is a hybred of a method I've used in the past and a technique David Antsrchal showed me at a club meeting. That sounds like a wonderful project to do - build a model with your Grandson. 
 
I did what I could with the kit - let's be honest - Chuck's kits need all the help they can get!!!! LOL!!!!! (just kidding - he's going to kill me for that)
 
The anchor is on it's way from Expo. Once I've got it modified I'll post completed pics and specs.
 
Thanks guys!!!
 
Sam

Thanks to everyone for the kind words.
 
Jax - where I'm at Hell DID freeze over and then some................
 
Rusty, the sails are actually paper. It's a type of sketch pad that is readily available at any office supply store. The process is a hybred of a method I've used in the past and a technique David Antsrchal showed me at a club meeting. That sounds like a wonderful project to do - build a model with your Grandson. 
 
I did what I could with the kit - let's be honest - Chuck's kits need all the help they can get!!!! LOL!!!!! (just kidding - he's going to kill me for that)
 
The anchor is on it's way from Expo. Once I've got it modified I'll post completed pics and specs.
 
Thanks guys!!!
 
Sam

I've decided on a blue ensign that will be flown from the flag halyards not at the stern.
 
Updated pics..........
 
Needs touch up and the jib sail is next.
 
I am waiting on a new anchor from Model Expo as I will be modifying it to have five arms not four.
 
Sam

Thanks to everyone for the kind words.
 
Jax - where I'm at Hell DID freeze over and then some................
 
Rusty, the sails are actually paper. It's a type of sketch pad that is readily available at any office supply store. The process is a hybred of a method I've used in the past and a technique David Antsrchal showed me at a club meeting. That sounds like a wonderful project to do - build a model with your Grandson. 
 
I did what I could with the kit - let's be honest - Chuck's kits need all the help they can get!!!! LOL!!!!! (just kidding - he's going to kill me for that)
 
The anchor is on it's way from Expo. Once I've got it modified I'll post completed pics and specs.
 
Thanks guys!!!
 
Sam

I've decided on a blue ensign that will be flown from the flag halyards not at the stern.
 
Updated pics..........
 
Needs touch up and the jib sail is next.
 
I am waiting on a new anchor from Model Expo as I will be modifying it to have five arms not four.
 
Sam

Well getting closer to completion.........
 
Shrouds, anchor and touch-up left
 
Sam

Well getting closer to completion.........
 
Shrouds, anchor and touch-up left
 
Sam