Wintergreen

Lovely!
 
Yes, the blue sticks out a bit too much. But I wouldn't go with regular black. Instead blend green with black or go with some blue-black. The main thing is to keep in the color range of the green and red. I cant express in words what I mean, but the blue and green as of now doesn't play together in my eyes.
There is probably some university degree in color matching (which I don't have) but think cars. "Wow, that is a black car." and then you go up to it and discover it is actually very dark green och very dark blue. Something like that.

Lovely!
 
Yes, the blue sticks out a bit too much. But I wouldn't go with regular black. Instead blend green with black or go with some blue-black. The main thing is to keep in the color range of the green and red. I cant express in words what I mean, but the blue and green as of now doesn't play together in my eyes.
There is probably some university degree in color matching (which I don't have) but think cars. "Wow, that is a black car." and then you go up to it and discover it is actually very dark green och very dark blue. Something like that.

Lovely!
 
Yes, the blue sticks out a bit too much. But I wouldn't go with regular black. Instead blend green with black or go with some blue-black. The main thing is to keep in the color range of the green and red. I cant express in words what I mean, but the blue and green as of now doesn't play together in my eyes.
There is probably some university degree in color matching (which I don't have) but think cars. "Wow, that is a black car." and then you go up to it and discover it is actually very dark green och very dark blue. Something like that.

Lovely!
 
Yes, the blue sticks out a bit too much. But I wouldn't go with regular black. Instead blend green with black or go with some blue-black. The main thing is to keep in the color range of the green and red. I cant express in words what I mean, but the blue and green as of now doesn't play together in my eyes.
There is probably some university degree in color matching (which I don't have) but think cars. "Wow, that is a black car." and then you go up to it and discover it is actually very dark green och very dark blue. Something like that.

Lovely!
 
Yes, the blue sticks out a bit too much. But I wouldn't go with regular black. Instead blend green with black or go with some blue-black. The main thing is to keep in the color range of the green and red. I cant express in words what I mean, but the blue and green as of now doesn't play together in my eyes.
There is probably some university degree in color matching (which I don't have) but think cars. "Wow, that is a black car." and then you go up to it and discover it is actually very dark green och very dark blue. Something like that.

Quick update
 
I roughed out a boom today it is clear fir
 

 

 

 
I will sit on this for a day or so and see how it feels then/
 
Michael

The rest of the cannon have been rigged and mounted!
 

 

 

 

Thanks again, folks. No further finish on the surface of the base is necessary, Tom.
 
The latest progress has been slow. Making and installing the gunwale was tricky. It is a scale 2½" wide by ¾" deep. That translates to about 3/64" by 1/64" full size. I cut this to shape from sheet Castello and carefully rounded the outer edge with fine sandpaper. The gunwale was carefully glued to the upper edge of the sheer strake and frame tops.
 
At the bow, where the fore deck is flush to the upper side of the gunwale, revision was needed. I sanded off the paint and applied a very narrow strip of Castello over the sheer strake to match the rest of the gunwale. As masking off the top accurately would be almost impossible, I scribed the line dividing the painted area and re-painted the deck. 

Thank you for the "likes" and the comments.
 
Well.. to paraphrase Clement Moore...  "The rudder was hung on the sternpost with care in hopes that I won't pull out my hair".   Yeah.. bad verse.. Oh well.
 
This part took some sorting out on exactly how to hang it properly rather than sort of cobbled like I did the kit models...   Thank heavens for the Optivisor as the holes for the bolts were pretty tiny.  I've half a mind to build the next one at 1:48 or 1:36 even just so I can see without eyestrain.  Like the Admiralty would be receptive to that.     
 
Next up will be the rudder coat (hopefully), the strop, and the chains.   Thanks to seeing Giampero's rudder coat, he gave me some ideas on how the Licorne's should look.  
 
Anyway, pictures.....
 
  

Thanks for all the positive comments and likes.
 
Continuing on with the goose-neck the filing of the opposite side.and the ends
 

 
I also needed to thin down the tongues a bit.
 

 
Next the holes for mounting to the mast were drilled and countersunk.
 

 
Then some final polishing, this was done with some wet and dry narrow strips and a brass wire hand brush. the piece was now ready to be unsoldered.
 

 
The releasing from the bar did not work in the way I had imagined, I had expected the short piece of bar to drop off because of its weight, but this did not happen, the capillary action of the soft solder was greater that I had anticipated, and by the time the assembly had gotten quite hot I realized that I would need to assist the parting. this I did with a steel scriber.
 

 
I had to work at removing the scale next, more work with the wet and dry and wire brush, the resulting look was now more like aged bronze with actually works for me. the swiveling part of the boom end was made from a couple of pieces of brass rod drilled out to be a loose fit on the pin.
 

 

 
The goose-neck is now temporarily attached to the mast with some dressmaker's pins.
 

 

 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you, everyone!
 
The next thing to tackle was the 'go faster' stripe along the sheer strake. Old paintings and extant ceremonial barges show either a green or scarlet strake. I opted for green, to contrast with the red paint. Securing the model on its side gently was a problem. Clamping was not an option! I decided to use a piece of dense styrofoam, which worked very well. I simply cut a slightly wedge-shaped piece out of the block and lowered the model into the gap. The masking used is Tamiya flexible tape.

I find it interesting...there is nothing in this build log that whatsoever reveal that there is somewhat of a temper involved. On the contrary, you seem to have all the patience, perseverance and endurance in the world when I look your ruler straight deck structure. Meticulously made long boats and everything else.
Inspirational!

The baseboard has now been completed and the pedestals installed. The model has been temporarily mounted and the rudder hung.

Wow five pages in. There is so much amazing shipbuilding going on in these five pages, so I had to do a lot of reading catching up as I scrolled down looking for my own. Oh I know there is a quicker way, but this was so much more fun and educational
 
Belated thanks to all the comments and likes that I missed here in the last month indeed a whole month has passed where does the time go?
 
In order to get my head back into the Herreshoff mindset if that is at all possible, I went to the catalogues of the replica hardware and looked at a lot of pictures for the rigging. 
 
I have made a start on the classic goose-neck that Herreshoff used for the small boats. The line drawing in the product catalogue shows that they were sized for 3 1/2 to 5 inch diameter. The printed off the page 7 sheet drawing of the goose-neck is exactly 5/8 inch in diameter which is the scale diameter as the low end of my mast. A great bit of serendipity.
 
After doing a small scribble in my sketchbook detailing the steps to create the piece in bronze and what cutters to use to rough out the form. Then rummaging around in the scrap box produced a small bar of said bronze about 1 5/8 inch long by 3/8 wide by 11/32 thick checking the cross section with the plan of the goose-neck it was just a little bit larger covering the plan view.
 
This first pic shows the drill chuck I took the picture after all the first steps of milling and drilling the hole for the pin, I do not want to give the impression that I used this chuck for milling, I have commented on this practice in previous posts, and never mill with the drill chuck. 
 

 
In order then:
 
I set the bar vertical in the mill vice, and milled straight down with a 5/8 end mill so that it cut the resulting chord to match the edges of the 3/8 width.
The mill was retracted and the vernier dials on the mill were all set to zero, the end mill was changed to a 1/4 diameter mill then the edge was lined up with the opposite side and the in out axis reset to zero then offset first to the left by .172 inches next I took .020" cuts into the block for .250" this was repeated until I reached a depth of .3 inches, in retrospect I should have gone .350 deep.
 
The mill was returned to the starting point at zero and then offset to .172 and the same depth cut was repeated on the opposite side. again the mill was returned to zero and then changed up to the drill chuck all I had to do was reset the in out with a pointer to the edge so that I could index the piece in by .062" I then drilled it out to the .3 depth with a .047 drill after using a centre drill to ensure that the bit didn't wander. this concluded the first set up in the vice.
 

 
the bar was reset horizontally so that the gap could be milled out, if I had had a T slot cutter this would not have been necessary as I could have slotted it while still vertical.
 

 
I changed the chuck in the mill back to the milling one and set up a 1/8th end mill and milled the gap and a small relief at the top and bottom.
 

 
Next I switched the bar back to the vertical position and carefully reset the position so that the .047" drill slid easily back into the previously drilled hole it is a bit nerve wracking but I needed to tap the hole in the bottom bar of the body 0x80 and I wanted to make sure that it was all in line, it is so easy to break these small taps the pivot pin for the boom will thread into this later.
 

 
Now comes the work with the files and sanding stick of wet and dry paper. I cut off the milled end of the bar and clamped it in the precision vice. Remember I mentioned it would have been better to go to a depth of .350" on the first machining well the small tab is the reason. I had to file this extra bit off, it can be seen in the next picture. I used a small piece of 9/16 brass rod to act as a clamp jig.
 

 
That's all for now, this evening I will continue with the filing.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

So, the "boat" is finished. However, I wont publish any overall pics until I have the surrounding items in place.
The boat will have a dedicated table to sit on. The table will match the other items at the podium.
It also needs a small box to have the candles in. The first one I put together were far to chunky in appearance to please my eye.
The finish is a clear lacquer, matte or satin. This to protect the wood from the anticipated far too many greasy fingerprints...
The candle-ring is just some plain copper that I went over with a ball point hammer. 
 
Nothing on this boat is "perfect" in the meaning of alignment, appearance, finish, wood texture (for instance, see the crack on the candle holder...). Why? Well, my thought is that we, as persons, are far from "perfect". We all have our small dents, cracks, soft spots and so on. And the boat reflects all that... (Rev 21:5)
Nuf said.
 

 
To be continued...

Well 'spoken'

So, the "boat" is finished. However, I wont publish any overall pics until I have the surrounding items in place.
The boat will have a dedicated table to sit on. The table will match the other items at the podium.
It also needs a small box to have the candles in. The first one I put together were far to chunky in appearance to please my eye.
The finish is a clear lacquer, matte or satin. This to protect the wood from the anticipated far too many greasy fingerprints...
The candle-ring is just some plain copper that I went over with a ball point hammer. 
 
Nothing on this boat is "perfect" in the meaning of alignment, appearance, finish, wood texture (for instance, see the crack on the candle holder...). Why? Well, my thought is that we, as persons, are far from "perfect". We all have our small dents, cracks, soft spots and so on. And the boat reflects all that... (Rev 21:5)
Nuf said.
 

 
To be continued...

I just learned the 400 pages of the booklet to drive the drone as on the first picture.
The other pictures are the result of the camera on board.

Webcam pictures; colors very bad, point of view appropriate, depth of field interesting

So, the "boat" is finished. However, I wont publish any overall pics until I have the surrounding items in place.
The boat will have a dedicated table to sit on. The table will match the other items at the podium.
It also needs a small box to have the candles in. The first one I put together were far to chunky in appearance to please my eye.
The finish is a clear lacquer, matte or satin. This to protect the wood from the anticipated far too many greasy fingerprints...
The candle-ring is just some plain copper that I went over with a ball point hammer. 
 
Nothing on this boat is "perfect" in the meaning of alignment, appearance, finish, wood texture (for instance, see the crack on the candle holder...). Why? Well, my thought is that we, as persons, are far from "perfect". We all have our small dents, cracks, soft spots and so on. And the boat reflects all that... (Rev 21:5)
Nuf said.
 

 
To be continued...

So, the "boat" is finished. However, I wont publish any overall pics until I have the surrounding items in place.
The boat will have a dedicated table to sit on. The table will match the other items at the podium.
It also needs a small box to have the candles in. The first one I put together were far to chunky in appearance to please my eye.
The finish is a clear lacquer, matte or satin. This to protect the wood from the anticipated far too many greasy fingerprints...
The candle-ring is just some plain copper that I went over with a ball point hammer. 
 
Nothing on this boat is "perfect" in the meaning of alignment, appearance, finish, wood texture (for instance, see the crack on the candle holder...). Why? Well, my thought is that we, as persons, are far from "perfect". We all have our small dents, cracks, soft spots and so on. And the boat reflects all that... (Rev 21:5)
Nuf said.
 

 
To be continued...

I find it interesting...there is nothing in this build log that whatsoever reveal that there is somewhat of a temper involved. On the contrary, you seem to have all the patience, perseverance and endurance in the world when I look your ruler straight deck structure. Meticulously made long boats and everything else.
Inspirational!

I find it interesting...there is nothing in this build log that whatsoever reveal that there is somewhat of a temper involved. On the contrary, you seem to have all the patience, perseverance and endurance in the world when I look your ruler straight deck structure. Meticulously made long boats and everything else.
Inspirational!

I find it interesting...there is nothing in this build log that whatsoever reveal that there is somewhat of a temper involved. On the contrary, you seem to have all the patience, perseverance and endurance in the world when I look your ruler straight deck structure. Meticulously made long boats and everything else.
Inspirational!

Just being back from Augsburg, and I love Man staring at Goats Ships ...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...hihihihihihihihihi...
 
It was marvelous, more than 70 people and about 50 models, and my small little plastic bug in between :-)
 
XXXDan