Wintergreen

Soo, this was a funny little piece to piece together, piece by piece, so to say. All dovetails and pins handcut with jewellers saw and filed to fit. 
It is the forward hatch and stairway just aft of the main mast. I decided to give it a wash of staining to dampen the quite white appearance of it. In order to match I sanded the main hatch  coaming also and applied a wash to it too. When dry I will give it a quick touch up with 320 grit paper and apply a couple of layers of laquer.
The bottom edge is sanded to the same rise as the deck beams so I used the top edge as index when mating all the corners. 
The two small blocks in the upper right corner (one with an arrow) was used to get the right size of the openings, and also keep things fair and square.



Here it is still moist after the staining hence the quite dark colour. It is not glued in place yet either. The real deal was through bolted from top down through the deck beams. I will not bother with that. I know my limitations (I think). 😉 

Cheers guys!

Glad to be of inspiration Andy 🙂
It is a learning curve for me too. I have found out that the first attempt is usually decent, but no 2 goes in the bin because it is done in somewhat of a hurry. Then you settle down and let it take the time it takes and the rest is good as well. For time it takes.
Lovely marking gauges you got there. I'm pondering over miniature tools now and then. Apart from being enourmusly pretty, are they useful?

What a nice build you've got going here Andy!
I'm glad to have found it. The similarities between our builds are quite striking, however, you go into much greater detail in keeping to the original than I do. Hats off for that, sir!
On the other hand of course they are similar! Atlantica is a scaled up version of a British smack built 1903 in Porthleven, which is basically just around the corner from Brixham 😄 
 
So, I'll grab a seat a little to the side here. Is the popcorn machinge functional or do I bring my own?

Oh, I love babies! (especially when you can hand them back to their parents if they get smelly 😄 )
Two of our grandkids are moving away in May, but the other family is still producing. Next one is due in early June 🙂 
 
Oh, and by the way, nice progress Keith!  

Oh, I love babies! (especially when you can hand them back to their parents if they get smelly 😄 )
Two of our grandkids are moving away in May, but the other family is still producing. Next one is due in early June 🙂 
 
Oh, and by the way, nice progress Keith!  

Greetings fellow modelers.   Thank you for your comments and likes!
 
 
Here's a short update.  The hull has been cut away from the station form extensions using a 1.25” diameter circular saw chucked into a Dremel rotary tool.  This is a somewhat dicey procedure because the rotating blade is just looking for an excuse to hop from the cut and remove a chunk of sheer strake instead.  But a strong grip on the tool keeps a pinched blade from jumping and makes quick work of the task at hand.  However, I do not recommend this method to sensible modelers.
 

 

 
 
Even though the hull planks were edge glued to each other, I decided to add reinforcing card strips between the station forms, which I glued into place with breathtaking amounts of CA.  Finally, I “painted” the entire interior with a 50/50 water/PVA solution to resist warping caused by humidity swings.
 

 
 
In the previous post I pointed out a few hull planks that were recessed - not flush with the adjacent planks.  I used wood shavings to build them up and then sanded them back.
 

 

 
 
Also, I removed material from the lower hull planks at the keel and stern post.  These planks previously stood proud and are now flush.  A shout-out to John, Andy and Håkan for clearing this matter up for me.  Being primarily a model builder with a secondary interest in boats/ships, my understanding of boat construction at the nuts-and-bolts level on anything larger than an open boat is a bit sketchy.  The knowledge base and ready willingness of MSW members to help, inform and encourage has made every model that I've built on this forum better and more accurate because of that input.  Thank you!
 

 
 
More hull filing/sanding and cleaning up is still needed.  And I've done nothing yet to finish the backbone assembly. 
 

 

 

 
Thanks for stopping by.
 
Be safe and stay well.
 
Gary

I have completed the bench lockers and rudder trunk.  This finishes up the inboard side of the transom nicely I think.   I have taken many step by step photos but rather than go through the whole process here are some pictures.
 
Its pretty self explanatory actually.
 
The panels are made in two layers of .025 Yellow Cedar for the benches and rudder trunk.  Then its just a matter of shaping them to fit snug and neat in position.  You want a tight fir against the planked sides of the cabin.  
Small lengths of 24 gauge black wire was use for the benchtop lids.   Some laser etching showed where they go.  To finish it all up I added that aft-most beam permanently and also the framed for the rudder.  Everything s laser cut for you...even the planking for the inside portion of the counter.  The sides of the rudder trunk panels were beveled so they could be fit together with a tight mitered seam between them.  I have not added wipe on poly yet.  I want to do a bit of clean up and repainting where thing got scuffed up a bit.  But I expect it will clean up OK.  And I have already cleaned the inside of the windows as well.   It will get harder to do that now that this detail was completed.
 

 


 







 
 
 
 

Thanks Håkan and bigcreekdad!
 
I was sure my main top wouldn't have enough room on the aft side to have the trymast come up through it the way it is supposed to do.  I was pleasantly surprised that there was enough room, just barely.  I filed a hole in the middle of the aft end for the trymast.  (I also spy a deadeye that didn't get completely blackened).  The top looks pretty dusty!--

 
The seat for the trymast is just about done.  I may do some further shaping.  Here it is pinned temporarily to the main mast--

 
And fitting the top in place--


 
There is supposed to be a fid through the trymast into the trestle trees, and possibly a spacer block between the trymast and the mast just under the trestle trees.  I'm not sure I'm going to elect to show those.
 


 
All for now,
Ron  
 
 
 

As neat and tidy as ever Ron!
 
Keep it up!

Post One Hundred and Fifty-two
 
Anchors 
As a change of scene, I thought I would make up a couple of the anchors.
The kit includes the four main bower anchors, if the smaller stream and kedge anchors are required they are easily obtained using aftermarket suppliers.
 
The kit provided anchors have a scale shank length of 77mm (16’ 2”) which equates to a weight of 43cwt
This weight falls between the allocated anchor weights for 38-50-gun ships.
The outer diameter of the ring is 29” which scales to 11.5mm.
The thickness of the ring scales to 1.4mm.
A 64-gun ship had 4 bowers at 57cwt plus stream at 15cwt and a kedge of 7cwt 2qrts.
 
The kit anchors are 3d printed and very finely sculpted. All the subtle features are moulded into the shank and arms.
I think the day of the white metal anchor is coming to a close.
As with all resin stuff the parts need washing and priming.
 
The stocks are pre-cut from Pearwood and are faced with a thinner veneer that contains the Trenails correctly positioned and with engraved markings for the iron retaining bands.

3831
The only modification I felt necessary was to taper the arms thickness a little from outside the central area towards the outer ends.
This reflects a more authentic shape.
 
Once primed, I used Vallejo black/grey, followed by dark brown /rust weathering powders.

3824
The anchors on the left have had the weathering treatment, those on the right as painted.

3830
Brass wire of 1.4mm ø was used to make the rings which have an outside ø of 11.5mm.

3835
The ends of the rings were reduced in size to fit the shank and chemically blackened to give a little tooth for the puddening.
 
The stock halves have mortises cut into the inner sides to fit against the shank. There should be a gap between them but I thought it a tad too large so I deepened the mortice somewhat.
Glued together the facings are then added.

3834
Those familiar with my stuff know that I favour heat shrink rubber tubing to represent iron hoops.
 
The final part is to add the puddening to the anchor ring.
I used Syren 0.45mm ø and Morope 0.1mm stuff for the seizings.

3838
In applying the puddening unless you glue the ring in place it needs to be held steady. As I work around the ring I apply pva to help keep it in place.

3842

3847
 

3849
Capt. Pellew is dwarfed by Indy’s anchors.
 
I won’t be fitting or rigging the anchors but as far as I can see there is no reference to this in either manual or plans, so other sources will have to be found; fortunately there are many available.
 
 
B.E.
02/03/2024

Oh, I love babies! (especially when you can hand them back to their parents if they get smelly 😄 )
Two of our grandkids are moving away in May, but the other family is still producing. Next one is due in early June 🙂 
 
Oh, and by the way, nice progress Keith!  

Glad to be of inspiration Andy 🙂
It is a learning curve for me too. I have found out that the first attempt is usually decent, but no 2 goes in the bin because it is done in somewhat of a hurry. Then you settle down and let it take the time it takes and the rest is good as well. For time it takes.
Lovely marking gauges you got there. I'm pondering over miniature tools now and then. Apart from being enourmusly pretty, are they useful?

Don't cheat, you cannot go nowhere without that WD40 Keith! Can't see the duct tape however, that must be in the drawer.

Well they would be if I could match your wonderful joinery skills, Hakan. I rely on white glue and sawdust! Glad to have you on board; I'm enjoying your Atlantica build enormously.
I looked at the Gratitude when researching. It's interesting that she survived the war, unlike so many others. She survived a dreadful storm in 1911, then continued working until 1932. I see she went to Lowestoft before crossing over to Bohuslän. It's wonderful that she is still sailing, and teaching youngsters the art of navigation and sail handling. She is seriously fast, and won the Tall Ships race in 1978. Someone should build her one day...

Soo, this was a funny little piece to piece together, piece by piece, so to say. All dovetails and pins handcut with jewellers saw and filed to fit. 
It is the forward hatch and stairway just aft of the main mast. I decided to give it a wash of staining to dampen the quite white appearance of it. In order to match I sanded the main hatch  coaming also and applied a wash to it too. When dry I will give it a quick touch up with 320 grit paper and apply a couple of layers of laquer.
The bottom edge is sanded to the same rise as the deck beams so I used the top edge as index when mating all the corners. 
The two small blocks in the upper right corner (one with an arrow) was used to get the right size of the openings, and also keep things fair and square.



Here it is still moist after the staining hence the quite dark colour. It is not glued in place yet either. The real deal was through bolted from top down through the deck beams. I will not bother with that. I know my limitations (I think). 😉 

Cheers guys!

Alas, sawdust!
Same scale, a lot bigger... as per usual I have started with the stem pieces. By no means perfect and also managed to incorporate some sapwood in the lower part of stem. I will redo the stem buildup another day. Today I was more interested in what kind of challenges I have with tooling. Square faces and all that. Anyway, it didn't come out half-bad. Also, being constantly tired, long days in the shop is not feasible sadly enough.
 
But why start building, the drawings aren't finished, are they?
No, they're not. But I had some challenges in "seeing" the stern part since the center-line has different widths (sidings) around the rudder and propshaft. Therefore I though it better to start putting the center-line together and move on with drafting after that.
 
The wood is apple, if anyone wonder. Harvested some 10 years ago... 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Soo, this was a funny little piece to piece together, piece by piece, so to say. All dovetails and pins handcut with jewellers saw and filed to fit. 
It is the forward hatch and stairway just aft of the main mast. I decided to give it a wash of staining to dampen the quite white appearance of it. In order to match I sanded the main hatch  coaming also and applied a wash to it too. When dry I will give it a quick touch up with 320 grit paper and apply a couple of layers of laquer.
The bottom edge is sanded to the same rise as the deck beams so I used the top edge as index when mating all the corners. 
The two small blocks in the upper right corner (one with an arrow) was used to get the right size of the openings, and also keep things fair and square.



Here it is still moist after the staining hence the quite dark colour. It is not glued in place yet either. The real deal was through bolted from top down through the deck beams. I will not bother with that. I know my limitations (I think). 😉 

Cheers guys!

What a nice build you've got going here Andy!
I'm glad to have found it. The similarities between our builds are quite striking, however, you go into much greater detail in keeping to the original than I do. Hats off for that, sir!
On the other hand of course they are similar! Atlantica is a scaled up version of a British smack built 1903 in Porthleven, which is basically just around the corner from Brixham 😄 
 
So, I'll grab a seat a little to the side here. Is the popcorn machinge functional or do I bring my own?

Soo, this was a funny little piece to piece together, piece by piece, so to say. All dovetails and pins handcut with jewellers saw and filed to fit. 
It is the forward hatch and stairway just aft of the main mast. I decided to give it a wash of staining to dampen the quite white appearance of it. In order to match I sanded the main hatch  coaming also and applied a wash to it too. When dry I will give it a quick touch up with 320 grit paper and apply a couple of layers of laquer.
The bottom edge is sanded to the same rise as the deck beams so I used the top edge as index when mating all the corners. 
The two small blocks in the upper right corner (one with an arrow) was used to get the right size of the openings, and also keep things fair and square.



Here it is still moist after the staining hence the quite dark colour. It is not glued in place yet either. The real deal was through bolted from top down through the deck beams. I will not bother with that. I know my limitations (I think). 😉 

Cheers guys!

Soo, this was a funny little piece to piece together, piece by piece, so to say. All dovetails and pins handcut with jewellers saw and filed to fit. 
It is the forward hatch and stairway just aft of the main mast. I decided to give it a wash of staining to dampen the quite white appearance of it. In order to match I sanded the main hatch  coaming also and applied a wash to it too. When dry I will give it a quick touch up with 320 grit paper and apply a couple of layers of laquer.
The bottom edge is sanded to the same rise as the deck beams so I used the top edge as index when mating all the corners. 
The two small blocks in the upper right corner (one with an arrow) was used to get the right size of the openings, and also keep things fair and square.



Here it is still moist after the staining hence the quite dark colour. It is not glued in place yet either. The real deal was through bolted from top down through the deck beams. I will not bother with that. I know my limitations (I think). 😉 

Cheers guys!

Ladies' pads make great emergency bandages ... don't ask how I know this 🫢

Soo, this was a funny little piece to piece together, piece by piece, so to say. All dovetails and pins handcut with jewellers saw and filed to fit. 
It is the forward hatch and stairway just aft of the main mast. I decided to give it a wash of staining to dampen the quite white appearance of it. In order to match I sanded the main hatch  coaming also and applied a wash to it too. When dry I will give it a quick touch up with 320 grit paper and apply a couple of layers of laquer.
The bottom edge is sanded to the same rise as the deck beams so I used the top edge as index when mating all the corners. 
The two small blocks in the upper right corner (one with an arrow) was used to get the right size of the openings, and also keep things fair and square.



Here it is still moist after the staining hence the quite dark colour. It is not glued in place yet either. The real deal was through bolted from top down through the deck beams. I will not bother with that. I know my limitations (I think). 😉 

Cheers guys!

Hello,
that was a week of drawing. But at least I will build the cabins after the standard drawing. If it was really so, I don't know

May be I make the bed place a little narrower. But here I can store the cannon in the cabin.

This is the version they used at the Medway. The difference is, at the Medway the cabins are going until right behind the mast. So they are a little broader, but there is at least no space left for the cannon. 
They had this cabins for the master and someone else, but I think that the master must look in this case for a place in the lobby for his maps and octant. When the 1.Lt. and the master had this deck, there are these extra cabins. Below the drawing for the 1745 establishment.

The carpenters where also busy and build the spirketting for this deck.

 
 

Soo, this was a funny little piece to piece together, piece by piece, so to say. All dovetails and pins handcut with jewellers saw and filed to fit. 
It is the forward hatch and stairway just aft of the main mast. I decided to give it a wash of staining to dampen the quite white appearance of it. In order to match I sanded the main hatch  coaming also and applied a wash to it too. When dry I will give it a quick touch up with 320 grit paper and apply a couple of layers of laquer.
The bottom edge is sanded to the same rise as the deck beams so I used the top edge as index when mating all the corners. 
The two small blocks in the upper right corner (one with an arrow) was used to get the right size of the openings, and also keep things fair and square.



Here it is still moist after the staining hence the quite dark colour. It is not glued in place yet either. The real deal was through bolted from top down through the deck beams. I will not bother with that. I know my limitations (I think). 😉 

Cheers guys!

Thanks Ed.  Yes, my shop has grown enormously from the first days.  I cut the original masts from a billet with a jewelers saw, and spent hours (days) sanding them flat and square.  Now it's a few minutes work.  But I spend most of my time still with files, chisels, and sand paper.
 
I'm getting the fore and main tops ready.   One of the tasks is making the futtock plates for those deadeyes I showed in the last post.  I used the method described by David Antscherl in Vol. 4 of The Fully Framed Model.
 
Here is the test piece, and a bunch of square wire cut for the rest--

 
The wire I bought was supposed to be "dead soft" meaning it should be not spring back when bent, but I found I still had to heat it red hot to make it truly malleable.  The wire pieces were bent around a drill--

 
They were then silver soldered at the "bottom" end. This would allow them to be bent back apart to insert the deadeyes.  This shows a series of them ready to solder.  You can just see the dab of solder paste about halfway along each piece--
.
 
That arrangement didn't work so well.  Only three of the pieces soldered well, because when liquid, the silver followed gravity rather than the gap in the wire.
Turning the pieces this way worked better--

 
Here are some ready to be soldered, some successfully soldered and filed smooth, and some cut to length with a hole drilled for a hook--
 
 
All for now,
Ron