Jump to content

keelhauled

NRG Member
  • Posts

    778
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by keelhauled

  1. Hi everyone, 

     

    Peter, thank you for your comments.  I'm always conflicted about the sails.  I like the way they look, but the amount of work is unbelievable.  Sometimes I think it takes as long to create and rig the sails as it does to build the rest of the ship.

     

    In my March 14 post, I spoke about the main course and moving the buntline locations on the foot of the sail.  As I said a lot of work and not sure it made any difference.  I'm late on getting the images for you, but here they are. 

     

     Originally, I had the buntline locations on the foot of the sail proper aligned to be brought up for furling and had does these adjustments with the sail actually pulling the lines up as a dry run off the ship. Then I was looking at the oldest painting of the Cutty and Campbell's drawings and saw that the location of the blocks on my ship didn't line up with those sources.  So I decided to move the block locations to match those sources.  However, I forgot to move where the buntlines were attached to the sail.  The new locations of the blocks would now allow the foot of the sail to be pulled up to the blocks correctly. As I said this was a huge deal to me and I thought that it was obvious to the casual observer (whomever that might be.  Certainly no one who will actually see this in my house or the family member that inherits this model and tosses it in the garbage or sells in in a garage sail).   

     

    Anyway, here is the photo of the old course buntline positions.

    20220306_183617.thumb.jpg.a34480467e4ac54da17eac8794808177.jpg

    And now after a full day's work and several nights of researching the topic in several books, in the new locations.  This time I made sure that the lines will pull the foot up to the blocks as shown in my references on the topic.

     

    1259970501_maincourse-newbuntlines.thumb.jpg.ee04f98140c5c27f3c919761b6acef92.jpg

    On a topic of making sure that lines are actually long or short enough.  I thought that I'd share how I determine the length of the permanent lifts when the sails are set.  It's easy.  I determine the lengths of the lifts, by actually lowering the yard to the position where it would be with the furled sail. 

     

    Here are images of the t'gallent sail with the yard hung in its lifts.  When I secure the lifts, I'll raise it up to the proper position.

    please ignore the slack lines. The photos do show the fairlead planks pretty well. One word of advice using fairlead planks to to check, then check again, then again, that the all of the holes are drilled large enough to accommodate the lines. You don't want to have to drill these holes larger or chase them while they are on the ship with the rigging. Ask me how I know this wisdom. Answer is that I only checked twice.  I should have checked one more time with the mast in off the ship then again with it in place, but not rigged.

       20220322_204126.thumb.jpg.88e52dcfce21ef26f22aa1d8ba98d118.jpg20220322_204137.thumb.jpg.afc44e398b6e7ebc4be2b074e4c34e24.jpg20220322_204201.thumb.jpg.1e8e52c6b22ccbb8b3cf102e673ab998.jpg

     

    Thanks for looking, 

    Marc

  2. Hi Harr, Grant, and Simon,

     

    Thank you for your kind words.  I really appreciate the support!

     

     I spent part of the weekend moving the bunt lines on the main course sail.  I had previously moved the buntline blocks to be more in line with the oldest painting and Campbell's drawing.  However, I forgot to move where the buntlines were attached to the sail.  I adjusted the connections further out which would now allow the foot of the sail to be pulled up to the blocks correctly.  When I was done, I couldn't really see much of a difference.  I'm sure no one would be able to tell.   Before, I made this change I thought that it looked way off.  now I know that it didn't actually look off even though it was.  I guess that is what experience gains you.  I kind of feel like I waisted the afternoon.  However, if I hadn't of made that change it would have always bothered me and I would have always thought that it was a glaring mistake. 

     

    I'll take a picture and add it to the post so that  you can take a look at the difference.

     

    Thanks

    Marc

  3. Hi all, 

    I have been slowly making progress.  But I have made progress.  I find it amazing that what I think will take 15 minutes takes an hour to rig.  I find that I run a line, then find it wrapped around something or needs to be run differently not to fowl another line, etc.   Then I have to pull it out and re-rig it another time or two.  It's taking much longer than I anticipated.   However, it's fun when I'm not getting aggravated at reworking lines.  One step forward, two steps (or more) back.  

     

    This is where I'm at tonight. 

    20220306_181029.thumb.jpg.852667950d60541dce4b96e2b2028f95.jpg

    When I rigged  the mast I braced around the yards as I worked from bottom to top. I didn't have any of the actual brace lines rigged.  Per Harry's (HOF) recommendation, I will wait until the end to rig the actual braces.  I just lightly glued the yards into position. This allowed me to run all of the rigging through the fairleads and to the pins as I rigged.  I glued the lines to the pins as I went and this allowed for a very clean process.  However there was a price.  I had a heck of a time running the lines with the yards braced around. Maybe I should have rigged top to bottom?  Anyway For the main mast I decided not to brace the yards around. I'm running all of the lines through the fairlead board (where applicable) then through the fairleads on the shrouds and then I just pulling the lines through the rail to the outboard of the ship. My thought is that at the end, I move the yards  (brace) into their final position and adjust the tension on the lines and belay the lines to the pins, let it sit for a few days and adjust any tension needed, then glue the lines to the pins.  So far,  I've gotten the course through the t-gallant rigged and it seems to be working ok.  

     

    here's a shot.  I have taken more photos and will post them after I move them from my camera to the computer. 

     

    Take care, stay well, and stay safe. 

    best, 

    marc

     

    A few shots of the model 

     

     

    20220306_183611.thumb.jpg.16283d75fb4a16445a0a99ee07407434.jpg

     

    Main mast -rigging is loose

    20220306_183633.thumb.jpg.bb7440272c34e5a4e3d7d2d7d0e6dd1a.jpg

     

    Aft fore mast rail 

    20220306_183655.thumb.jpg.fd494a9d2d87c5303a6c06ec85e640ac.jpg

     

     

    20220306_183750.thumb.jpg.988f985a6d84cd0e0a961794354dd62b.jpg

     

    main mast progress. loose rigging

    20220306_183855.thumb.jpg.d5d38c595340b71871756350c60a3696.jpg

     

    Aft side of the main mast spider band - work in progress

    20220306_183840.thumb.jpg.36995af25707e0258162b01ce2b4e953.jpg

    20220306_183617.jpg

  4. Hi all, 

     

    I'm still alive.  Sorry I haven't posted in almost a year.   I think the whole COVID situation has killed my attention span outside work.  I can't seem to stay focused and my energy level is at a minimum.  I'm exhausted at the end of the workday or after I've done the necessary chores on the weekend. Even staying connected with friends seems harder. 

     

    I haven't done a lot of work since my last burst of energy.  However, I did accomplish some in small sessions here and there.  I completed all of the mizzen deadeye - shroud rigging and finished all of the ratlines.   I took a couple of photos on my phone.  I'll take better ones and upload them.  My phone doesn't do a good jog capturing the details in focus. 

     

    20210509_151608.thumb.jpg.879f95fd7145ea897b6c1d65e0837924.jpg

     

    20210509_151623.thumb.jpg.db688ba6617562a9f56f48661c52a052.jpg

     

    I've been trying to buy a mill during this whole COVID mess.  The dealer will ship everything you want to buy in the crate with the machine and you only have to pay the same shipping charge on the machine. I wanted to take advantage of this great savings, but all of the higher/heavier large ticket items were never in stock at the same time as the Mill.   When items came back into stock, the Mill was out of stock for several months. Always two or more items on backorder (not the dealer's fault). Anyway, I broke down and ordered everything that was in stock when the mill was finally back in stock.   So here's the new addition to my shop. 

     

    20210221_213114.thumb.jpg.eba57c1a33182c1d488f6509666f3551.jpg

     

    Happy Mother's Day

    best

    marc

  5. Hi Simon, 

    The Cutty is looking  good. Nice details.  I look forward to seeing how you do with the davits.  I made mine out of Brass, but I'd be interested to see how you do with the wood.  Be careful in wood not to introduce to much bend all at once, you don't want to split the wood.  Also, drastic bends can be very difficult with thicker wood or dowels.  At least they are for me ☺️

    Good luck!

    marc

  6. Hi Harry!

     

    I'm glad that your move was successful and no damage to the ships!!!  I'm looking forward to seeing more building from you.  I had more delays on my build.  My wife and I relocated to our house in Florida for a couple of months.  Tired of seeing the inside of our house in Virginia -working at home from COVID.   Back in Virginia again and access to the ship.  

     

    Vladimir, Thank you for your comments on my build.  Your build of the Cutty is wonderful. I impressed on your 1:24 scale!! 

     

    best, 
    marc 

  7. Hi Bill, 

     

    Mark's right about the sudding sail booms.  they were inboard when not in use.  Also, note that depending upon the direction and strength of the wind, the cutty wouldn't have had her spanker, mizzen, and spencer rigged.  You can see photos where the wind is coming from astern or rear quarters and she is rigged in this manner.  These sails would rob the wind from the main and fore.  In fact, often the main wouldn't be rigged as well.   Just  some thoughts..

     

    best

    marc

  8. After letting the shrouds and lanyards sit overnight, I adjusted the tension where needed and let it sit again for a few days.  Then I checked the tension and alignment of the mizzen against the other mast again. this time I got a better photo.  The caps are lined up, the tops are lined up and the royals and sky are lined up.  I'm sure that they never were on the actual ship.  But I tried to keep the rigging ship shaped :P    For reference, the only square sails set thus far are on the fore mast.

     

    1269405039_20200616_152202-lowres.thumb.JPG.cb6b918915b0843baccffc28cc601494.JPG

     

    1333634040_20200616_152300-lowres.thumb.JPG.3236417be087e7e46c2fb936761b30b2.JPG

     

    thanks for  looking!!

  9. With the mizzen stepped.  I checked the alignment of the mizzen mast against the other mast and a pumb bob.  You probably can't see the plumb bob and string well - it has a white string.  I can see if fine in person.  Also, I know the  photo isn't lined up with the center line. sorry.  i took it with my phone instead of my camera.  Looks like I need to go back to using my camera. 

     

    203676322_20200508_154452-lowres.thumb.JPG.c21fcbba16b78f1aaec31063fd5b38fb.JPG

     

    With the mast lined up, I started the mizzen shrouds.  I'm using forceps to keep tension on the dead eye lanyards. 

    1690174187_20200616_152109(1)-lowres.thumb.JPG.12a412bb435c1fc6a88e2ab9cea80026.JPG

     

     

    1151355926_20200616_152118-lowres.thumb.JPG.253d0a35b2c9c8a44a5a678caef2f48e.JPG

    20200616_152047-low res.JPG

  10. On to bending the driver.  I wanted to have the driver attached before stepping the mizzen.  I made more hanks using the jig described earlier in the log.  why I didn't make all of the hanks at the same time, I'll never know! I built the channel for the hanks to slide on as well as attached the hanks to the driver.  I used photos of the cutty to make sure of the detail. I have an observation. I shot around 200 photos and still don't have the shots that I need. 

     1807422854_20200506_223939-lowres.thumb.JPG.ce9f0e9207fbb6dfe9dae0f589503c90.JPG1959158273_20200506_223947-lowres.thumb.JPG.37a26ea62bdfa455767b505b421c172c.JPG

    963855202_20200506_223957-lowres.thumb.JPG.10fb9d65f0eb6f14965767d5f4056bf0.JPG

     

     

    With the driver rigged, I stepped the mizzen mast.  I used toothpicks for the wedges.  

    2000979495_20200508_154352-lowres.thumb.JPG.f0ac7daadfdfbf74c952b3e48ba2df16.JPG

     

    Thanks for looking!!

    marc

    20200506_224008-low res.JPG

  11. Work proceeds on getting the mizzen ready to step.  Before stepping the Mizzen, I wanted to make sure that the driver was attached and rig.  Here is preparing the booms.  There are still a couple of fittings and cleat to add.

     

    1941183640_20200314_165756-lowres.thumb.JPG.983859dd16ccb2fd2602057e413e3bf5.JPG

     

    I finished rigging the ratlines and checked and double checked the blocks to make sure that I haven't missed any. 

     

    1598515526_20200314_165838-lowres.thumb.JPG.b98a6444a2fe465e605e8518d62ac52d.JPG

     

    A view of the progress on the sails and test fitting the mizzen.884446076_20200408_155204-lowres.thumb.JPG.f5af0debf1970312f8a9c42ab18a3ace.JPG

  12. Hi Marco!

    thank you for your comments!  I'm learning as I go.  I was originally going to build the large Revell model.   By the time I was ready, I couldn't find it and was told that they stopped producing it.  I was intimidated with the wood, but it's been fine.  i spend a great amount of time trying to research the ship.  Wish I was closer to the actual ship.

    If I can help in anyway, please let me know.  Also, do you have a build log I can follow?

    best

    marc

  13. Boat time again!

     

    I had previously attached the boats to the chalks and checked it's location and fit of the supports with the pinrails.  I continued with adding the lines and chains, fastening the boats to the eyebolts.   As you can see, I did the work off the ship using some plastic containers to allow me easy access to all of the eyebolts.  The next step will be adding the studding sail yards, spars, and accommodation davit.  If I can fit all of that stuff on the beams. 

    1272104344_20200307_190610-lowres.thumb.JPG.ac846180ce3be3b991432b2c920ea75e.JPG

     

    1715846628_20200307_190615-lowres.thumb.JPG.f78846ab3f3a983b0b96dc5b2c0c587a.JPG

     

    967967001_20200307_190627-lowres.thumb.JPG.945414c91041227f369a263ee21a02be.JPG

     

    1522041486_20200307_190638-lowres.thumb.JPG.b151afa63243817a4e12c8b47ed87aca.JPG

    507099624_20200307_190649-lowres.thumb.JPG.6b1e923919a0467bec4f7208a4021fc3.JPG

     

     

  14. They are available in several different sizes.  I have sizes ranging from 3 inches to about 9 inches long.  really nice.  the scissors have saved me a few times.  Like all tools, they range in quality and costs.  You get what you pay for.  More important with the scissors in my experience.  cheap ones weren't too good- cutting edges had some irregularity when the two surfaces met.  the expensive ones were razor sharp and perfect alignment. 

×
×
  • Create New...