kruginmi

Mark
 
You're doing what you feel needs doing.  Good on you as that obviously wasn't an easy decision.   I too am curious, what made you re-check the drawings?

No worries, the build will happen.  My enthusiasm remains strong (one of the reasons I am doing this!).
 
Went to the copy center over lunch and it took three tries before I found a copier that didn't move things around too much.  People wondered what I was doing pressing the copies and master to the window.  I had hoped they would have a light table to make this easy but they just looked at me with a blank stare when I asked.
 
I will show some of the pre-checks to do (even with bulkheads) and my hope is to start constructing new frames this weekend.  Lots of pre-marking to do to better define the futtock joins and deck beam locations.
 
Mark

I have come to a decision.  After an honest / personal appraisal of how this build is going and the little quirks that I keep adjusting to, that little thought started creeping in - should I continue with what I got?
 
This morning I got out a light box and went back to the copies I used for the frames against the plan drawings and there was some significant distortion.  I knew better and should have found this out right away before cutting out any wood.  Oh well, this is a hobby for fun, right?
 
So....I am going back to square one and starting over.  At least I can incorporate better thoughts on join location and how the thickstuff will lay down.  I started feeling better right away after making the decision so I know it is the right one.  I will continue to use this same build log - however I may be off line for awhile since making frames will be the same as previously shown.
 
Mark

No worries, the build will happen.  My enthusiasm remains strong (one of the reasons I am doing this!).
 
Went to the copy center over lunch and it took three tries before I found a copier that didn't move things around too much.  People wondered what I was doing pressing the copies and master to the window.  I had hoped they would have a light table to make this easy but they just looked at me with a blank stare when I asked.
 
I will show some of the pre-checks to do (even with bulkheads) and my hope is to start constructing new frames this weekend.  Lots of pre-marking to do to better define the futtock joins and deck beam locations.
 
Mark

Oh no!!!!!
 
Having had to start over on some projects in the past, I understand to some degree where you are at. Sometimes it is easy to go back and get in the groove. Sometimes not. Enthusiasm is gone and you really don't want to go down that path again. I hope in this case it is the former. I am learning a lot and hope to see you back in battery again soon.

Probably for the best Mark.. no point in going on if you aren't happy, the good thing is that I should imagine you will catch up to where you are now in no time at all, having already done most of it before ! 
 
All The Very Best
 
Eamonn

what was it that made you check the plans again?  Could be helpful for other people.

I have come to a decision.  After an honest / personal appraisal of how this build is going and the little quirks that I keep adjusting to, that little thought started creeping in - should I continue with what I got?
 
This morning I got out a light box and went back to the copies I used for the frames against the plan drawings and there was some significant distortion.  I knew better and should have found this out right away before cutting out any wood.  Oh well, this is a hobby for fun, right?
 
So....I am going back to square one and starting over.  At least I can incorporate better thoughts on join location and how the thickstuff will lay down.  I started feeling better right away after making the decision so I know it is the right one.  I will continue to use this same build log - however I may be off line for awhile since making frames will be the same as previously shown.
 
Mark

I have come to a decision.  After an honest / personal appraisal of how this build is going and the little quirks that I keep adjusting to, that little thought started creeping in - should I continue with what I got?
 
This morning I got out a light box and went back to the copies I used for the frames against the plan drawings and there was some significant distortion.  I knew better and should have found this out right away before cutting out any wood.  Oh well, this is a hobby for fun, right?
 
So....I am going back to square one and starting over.  At least I can incorporate better thoughts on join location and how the thickstuff will lay down.  I started feeling better right away after making the decision so I know it is the right one.  I will continue to use this same build log - however I may be off line for awhile since making frames will be the same as previously shown.
 
Mark

As we say in the Army, no plan survives first contact and it was proven true once again.
  After rubber cementing the futtock templates to the Basswood sheet (grain oriented correctly) I cut each one out with about a 1/16" buffer, which was sanded to shape on the drum sander.  For the joining edges I used my sled on the table saw for precise angles (match the cuts).  Guaranteed straight and perfect 90 degrees.  I could shave off a 1/64th safely using this method.     The first layer was finalized (paper template removed) and glued together piece by piece over a copy of the frame (with wax paper). Then I finished each piece of the second layer and added each one separately to the existing finished layer.  I had thought of making the second layer independently and then joining both whole layers together but the piece by piece looked to be the better and more accurate solution.   In the following pic I was using the second layer pieces as clamp aids for the first layer.     After everything dried I did a gentle sanding by hand of all the surfaces.     I finished frame 19 first (second one in) since it will be totally covered up.  After I am confident in my technique I can then do the exposed frames of 18 and 27 (one side exposed each).  Next up is frame 26 so I can also start working on the base jig and get that trued up.  With everything going on, hope to have the skeleton complete and setup during Christmas break.   Very happy with this approach.  More time than with the original Druid but a lot less wood.   Mark

As the planning starts, so does the log.  With my admiralty hull finally back home after a month road trip around town I am more convinced than ever that a cross section is needed.  With a variety of questions being consistently asked about the layout of the internals and how did this or that happen, the cross section would be perfect.
 

 
Being a cross section it will fit on the mantle but also bring home the resultant size of the full ship with the full main mast being present.
 
The first question is where to define the cut lines.  After looking at the plans I am looking at the following layout (frames 18-27):
 

 
Being a Hahn plan, there are no knees defined (not seen at all in the full model).  In this case they will be seen so I will add those in.  I am a little lucky in that this is an American built cargo ship purchased and converted by the British.  So......I do not necessarily have to follow exact British standards of the time.  I am pretty sure I will put in at least one futtock rider.
 
I am thinking of fully planking the outer hull inside and out both sides, but then one half of the inner hull decks will be left with all floor beams exposed.  The fully deck planked side will be fit out with ballast, water and food casks, cannon (kids happy about that) with associated tools and probably a hammock or two.
 
The rigging will be that which is possible.  I am thinking about having sails (lower one furled).  I have picked up the masting plans for the Brilliant / Druid in the possession of the Smithsonian.  That is a big help.  Lots of scratching of the head on tie down positions with the added quarterdeck extension.
 
Now to start on the frames.  I will not use the short cut frames jig provided but will go with more of wood saving futtock by futtock method (modified) - still using the inverted building stand / jig.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

I have come to a decision.  After an honest / personal appraisal of how this build is going and the little quirks that I keep adjusting to, that little thought started creeping in - should I continue with what I got?
 
This morning I got out a light box and went back to the copies I used for the frames against the plan drawings and there was some significant distortion.  I knew better and should have found this out right away before cutting out any wood.  Oh well, this is a hobby for fun, right?
 
So....I am going back to square one and starting over.  At least I can incorporate better thoughts on join location and how the thickstuff will lay down.  I started feeling better right away after making the decision so I know it is the right one.  I will continue to use this same build log - however I may be off line for awhile since making frames will be the same as previously shown.
 
Mark

Final push to get the lower hold planks in place - the 1/16" basswood ones.  I couldn't leave it so close to getting buttoned up so I spent most of the day going back and forth.  The old:  cut, glue and clamp two planks (one each side), wait to dry, remove and do the next two.  Pretty straight forward stuff.  I opted to only use planks that traversed the whole cross section.  There will be so much stuff down here (eventually) I didn't think anyone would be able to notice any different later.
 
So yet another couple of shots showing the hold:
 

 
No smooth surface going up the walls here.  I realize it would be pretty easy to climb up the walls without any further assist.  Still some tidying up to do here and there.
 

 
Making that mast footing is going to take some time, but that is for another day.  Probably need to make some berth deck beams, if not orlop ones to start figuring out bulkheads and the well.  The cross section definitely feels pretty solid now!
 
Mark
 
 

Final push to get the lower hold planks in place - the 1/16" basswood ones.  I couldn't leave it so close to getting buttoned up so I spent most of the day going back and forth.  The old:  cut, glue and clamp two planks (one each side), wait to dry, remove and do the next two.  Pretty straight forward stuff.  I opted to only use planks that traversed the whole cross section.  There will be so much stuff down here (eventually) I didn't think anyone would be able to notice any different later.
 
So yet another couple of shots showing the hold:
 

 
No smooth surface going up the walls here.  I realize it would be pretty easy to climb up the walls without any further assist.  Still some tidying up to do here and there.
 

 
Making that mast footing is going to take some time, but that is for another day.  Probably need to make some berth deck beams, if not orlop ones to start figuring out bulkheads and the well.  The cross section definitely feels pretty solid now!
 
Mark
 
 

Back in the shop working to complete the rudder assembly....
 
I first added the metalwork to the rudder itself.  I figured out where it should fit and mortised in a channel to insure the metalwork went were it was fitted everytime.  In this view I have not installed the bolts.
 

 
Next up was getting the matching work on the hull.  I started with the top most hinge first and again mortised in the location but this time only on the rudder post.
 

 
After rough fitting I cut the bolt holes into the brasswork before final fitting and then blackening.  The issue here was to insure you installed the mating pieces so the rudder will fit into them all at once in a somewhat centered location.  The second hinge installed was the bottom and only then the middle ones.  Check, check and recheck.  This view shows three complete hinges installed without the bolts:
 

 
Finally after a bit of work you can step back and see the final effect.  Since this was a working boat I didn't want the perfect rudder workings and achieved the effect (without any extra effort - of course).  hah hah.
 

 
Now to work the steering mechanism.  Of course I have decided to add a ships wheel and drum just forward of the tiller arm.  More lathe work but how could I settle on something different?  I also need to clean up the top of the rudder with the leather gasket - will help to get a good look to the stern below the tiller arm.
 
On a side note my time is already getting a little compressed.  Even though the temp is just above 0 degrees Fahrenheit I have set my sights on three sprint triathlons this summer meaning training has already begun - 45 minutes on the bike this morning (on a trainer in the basement).  Oh well, staying healthy will hopefully mean more years to build.  Long term gain for short term loss.
 
Mark
 
 

The torch arrived. I also bought a syringe loaded with a paste made of flux and silver solder. I tried it out on a brass ring and it worked well. I removed the knob on the back of the swivel guns I bought from Chuck. I drilled hole there and soldered in brass wire. It was easier than I thought it would be. Probably beginner's luck. Here are the guns blackened. I included one of the guns from the kit for comparison.
 
Steve
 
P.S. David--I'll watch the $2 rack for you!

Back in the shop working to complete the rudder assembly....
 
I first added the metalwork to the rudder itself.  I figured out where it should fit and mortised in a channel to insure the metalwork went were it was fitted everytime.  In this view I have not installed the bolts.
 

 
Next up was getting the matching work on the hull.  I started with the top most hinge first and again mortised in the location but this time only on the rudder post.
 

 
After rough fitting I cut the bolt holes into the brasswork before final fitting and then blackening.  The issue here was to insure you installed the mating pieces so the rudder will fit into them all at once in a somewhat centered location.  The second hinge installed was the bottom and only then the middle ones.  Check, check and recheck.  This view shows three complete hinges installed without the bolts:
 

 
Finally after a bit of work you can step back and see the final effect.  Since this was a working boat I didn't want the perfect rudder workings and achieved the effect (without any extra effort - of course).  hah hah.
 

 
Now to work the steering mechanism.  Of course I have decided to add a ships wheel and drum just forward of the tiller arm.  More lathe work but how could I settle on something different?  I also need to clean up the top of the rudder with the leather gasket - will help to get a good look to the stern below the tiller arm.
 
On a side note my time is already getting a little compressed.  Even though the temp is just above 0 degrees Fahrenheit I have set my sights on three sprint triathlons this summer meaning training has already begun - 45 minutes on the bike this morning (on a trainer in the basement).  Oh well, staying healthy will hopefully mean more years to build.  Long term gain for short term loss.
 
Mark
 
 

Back in the shop working to complete the rudder assembly....
 
I first added the metalwork to the rudder itself.  I figured out where it should fit and mortised in a channel to insure the metalwork went were it was fitted everytime.  In this view I have not installed the bolts.
 

 
Next up was getting the matching work on the hull.  I started with the top most hinge first and again mortised in the location but this time only on the rudder post.
 

 
After rough fitting I cut the bolt holes into the brasswork before final fitting and then blackening.  The issue here was to insure you installed the mating pieces so the rudder will fit into them all at once in a somewhat centered location.  The second hinge installed was the bottom and only then the middle ones.  Check, check and recheck.  This view shows three complete hinges installed without the bolts:
 

 
Finally after a bit of work you can step back and see the final effect.  Since this was a working boat I didn't want the perfect rudder workings and achieved the effect (without any extra effort - of course).  hah hah.
 

 
Now to work the steering mechanism.  Of course I have decided to add a ships wheel and drum just forward of the tiller arm.  More lathe work but how could I settle on something different?  I also need to clean up the top of the rudder with the leather gasket - will help to get a good look to the stern below the tiller arm.
 
On a side note my time is already getting a little compressed.  Even though the temp is just above 0 degrees Fahrenheit I have set my sights on three sprint triathlons this summer meaning training has already begun - 45 minutes on the bike this morning (on a trainer in the basement).  Oh well, staying healthy will hopefully mean more years to build.  Long term gain for short term loss.
 
Mark
 
 

Gosh...I got a sled for Christmas. 
 
 

 

 
This does not have a sawcut all the way thru the bed yet.  I did my initial cuts with a larger blade.  I will make my final cut with my .030 slitting blade, the one I will use with this.
 
My thanks to Krug for his directions.

Here is a closeup of the two main components:
 

Onto the rudder hinges.  The generic hardware provided with the kit just didn't do it for me and with the success of the built ones for the Druid I really had no choice (hah hah) but to go down the same route.
 
First up was cutting strips for the 4 hinges required.  My raw brass sheet was wide enough to provide enough strip for each hinge set.
 

 
Simply define the width and run the blade over this line a few times.  I then gently wrap this edge over the edge of a piece of wood using gentle hammer strokes followed by returning it flat.  Then I grab it with my small pliers and with a little wiggle the strip snaps off.  I had previously bought a brass tube and rod that perfectly fits inside for the hinge mechanism.
 
For silver soldering there has been lots of posts but essentially the ingredients are:
 

 
Acetone for cleaning the brass, water for cooling after, flux (the right stuff), the silver solder pieces and finally the torch.
 
The tube was first soldered to the strip and then cut to size.  After repeating this eight times I then soldered four rods for the mating pieces.
 

 
After it was all done (less than an hour) I did an initial bend and everything looks good.  Still some refinement but another hour or so and these will be ready for blackening.  The original kit piece is in the upper left.
 

 
Very solid (and permanent).  It will look like a million bucks soon.  Next step is to drill holes for the bolts, bend to shape and get them configured to the hull.
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

Quick update with an hour in the shipyard tonight.  The rudder just kept nagging at me, that I was settling.  The bottom line is that I did not have walnut of the width necessary to build the rudder from scratch.  Then it hit me, why replace the whole rudder?  How bad would it look to laminate boards onto a core?  Only one way to find out - try it out.
 
I sanded the existing rudder to a little under a 1/2 of its original width.  This accounted for two 1/16" laminates plus a little more to make it more pleasing to my eye.  I did this with the spindle sander taking a 1/4 off each side to keep the tiller arm centered.  Then using the pattern showed earlier I added the faux planks to each side.  After some sanding and....
 

 
I am pleasantly surprised that even the edge on look doesn't appear too bad.  I am satisfied now.  Now for silver soldering some rudder hanging hardware.
 
mark

I have worked my way through affixing all 50+ eyebolts.  About half of those were put in by the plugs described earlier.  Towards the stern two ring bolts each side were too close together for individual plugs so I cut a rectangular one that encompassed both bolts.
 

 
So the next step was to move on to the rudder.  I keep reminding myself that the point of this build was to provide a basis for learning rigging techniques, that the main hull was supposed to be out of the box.  So much for that plan.  The rudder provided by the kit was a large chunk of walnut cut to the shape of a rudder.  My first step was to look in Crother's book on clipper ship rudders and it was seen this was a pretty good form:
 

 
However, more than one chunk of wood was used.  It is interesting to note that some of the beams drawn out do taper to a sharp point, the first instance where I have seen this done on an external hull in actual practice.  Trying to keep this build going forward (and get to the rigging) I penciled in the beam lines into the kit rudder and scraped them to provide a resemblance of the separate pieces.
 

 
Another challenge that presented itself was the tiller arm.  Looking on deck with the rudder now in place, the attachment of the tiller is pretty far back towards the back rail.  I will have to think this through on how to work this.  I always have the option of making a rudder box obscuring the whole thing.
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

My Lady Anne has sat patiently but today was the day I listened to her call.  I am pretty close to rigging so that will be a good companion to the Druid-X.
 
I dusted her off and re-oriented myself to where I left off.  The last item I had done was position the eyebolts.  This ship is to be rigged as an operating clipper ship, the Pride of Baltimore II is the plans I am basing this off of.  Lots more blocks, eyebolts and lines to lay than what the original kit intended.  Pretty much nothing left of the original kit Harvey at this level.
 

 
I had concerns with how well the eyebolts would stay simply glued in place on the deck.  I have looked at the various options for affixing them but arrived at a solution for the ones on the deck:  I will add plugs of walnut for a little more pop and the ability to clench the bottom of the eyebolts themselves.  
 
This was a simple matter of finding an available walnut dowel that I thought correctly sized and drilling a companion hole for the dowel to fit in.  The dowel itself was drilled through for the eyebolt to pass and clenched down.  There are over 20 eyebolts to do but that shouldn't take too long.
 

 
After dry a couple swipes with some sandpaper should clean any residue up.  This is a fun build that I do what I want.  I will finish her this year.
 
I need to really think about what finish to use.  Suggestions are welcomed.
 
Mark

One item on this ship that I saw someone else do that I knew immediately that I was going to copy was the stairwell going down to the lower deck.  In a PoB - and one that has the hull complete - how would you do this?  The answer is to make a self contained box  and lower it into a cut hole in the deck:
 

 

 
In the following pic you will notice a slight indentation at the top of the box.  This was to allow the box to slide down next to the center bulkhead.
 

 
The box is painted black below deck level to allow the illusion of desending.
 

 

 
I really like the opportunities this provides both on this ship and others.  An easy implementation with good results.