popeye the sailor

no MAY about it ..........I'm such a doof..........DOUGH!

what a scare I got last night.........I put all my pictures and projects on memory sticks. I don't use photo sites.....if I lose 'em, I rather it be MY fault I have 16 GB scandisk, that I've had since 2009.......got at least 15 or so projects in folders and pictures. my Nordkap.....the Cux 87.......the cutty........just to name a few. I have another larger one that houses all the instructions I've downloaded and sent to me from Billing Boats. I use them to follow folks with their builds, back when I used to do customer service for Billing USA. here on the site, I read a comment from a gent who recently bough a Colin Archer model, asking how the planking runs. reaching for the right memory stick, I grabbed the wrong one, and it fell into my glass of Pepsi which was just below where I keep them. I was horrified!....to say the least........the thought of all that content lost..........the admiral recently lost one to some glitch....I could revive it now it's MY turn! of course it sunk to the bottom....I quickly ran to the kitchen to pour the Pepsi into another glass, so I could retrieve the stick before it became totally Pepsilogged!........the feeling of dread......I was too late, I fear. I'm shaking the stick against a paper towel to drive out the moisture.........the admiral looking up remedies for sunken disks. she was reading them to me as I got the idea to take it apart, which was relatively easy to do. some had gotten in there and I patted the electronics dry.......swabbing the interior with rolled up paper towel. it was read that it should be left to air dry for 24 hours, but I reassembled it this morning, after leaving it apart overnight. impatient.......I plugged it in..........the light in the disk came on, but the computer didn't recognize it I pulled it back out, and back in again....and it came up immediately! clicking out of the program, pulling it back out and then back in again, brought it right back up.............I was relieved! happy that it still lives so this morning, I got back to work on 'Wulfie', adding the detail to the cowls...highlights to the engines. last night I had tipped all the props with flat white, not having a better way to paint the stripes on the blades this morning I defined the stripes.......had to redo one blade though.... added them to the cowls, cementing the retainer caps in the back. before the assemblies can go on, the turbos and exhaust needed to be painted to me it looks sloppy, but no different that what I did on the Nine o Nine........on the M. B. this detail will be much better....you'll see the cowl assemblies were added to the wing at this point. there's my scan disk all apart. one saddened note...... as I worked on the wing, a section of the wing walk came off, leaving a break in the walk. couldn't find it anywhere. looking at the other wing, the same area had the walk lifting. I was going to get the decal set to lay it back down, but without any striping left to fix the other wing, I removed the lifted walk. they both look the same now. not quite in the same place, but when fully assembled, it won't be that noticeable. more soon

interesting..........very sweet looking car.. what are you using for a camera......not doing it any justice. I recently bought a 1960 Chevy Belair....we had three of them in our family. My Mom's car was a '59 she called Agnes, had an L6. it got taken out late one night by a drunk driver, as she was coming home from work. she was unhurt. my father's car was a '60 or '61....black with an L6 under the hood as well. it went to the bone yard, but before it did, I fell out of the hayloft with an old tricycle and landed on the hood, denting the hood and driving the foot peg through the hood and the valve cover. I was unhurt.......except for my bum afterwards the model has a V8........348 cu. in. with triple carbs.....they tout this model as stock. I don't believe it.....stock would have been an L6, like my dad's. my dad's car to a 'T' ....Mom's was White. my brother had one too, another 1959.......got it from a junk yard, sitting on top of a pile ready for the crusher. it was like buying a cut of meat from the market.......my dad pointed to it.....told Mr. Currier that he wanted it, and they brought it down with a modified skidder, originally used for logging. we picked out four rims with inflated tires, put 'em on and towed it home. his was red and white. I don't recall if it had an L6.......but it drove fine until my brother decided to get gas from one of the old junks out back, 'cuz he was short on cash .....ruined the engine........R.I.P. the kit was produced in 1998, by Revell / Monogram Germany......it's a very nice kit with lots of detail. it includes all the chrome.........I've seen older kits like this.....and in a flip top box to boot. don't mind me.......I'm a Rambler........but never a Nash you build some really nice car models any insight, or can you point me to where I can get an L6 engine for this model.

....and all that coming from a guy who couldn't see.........love the song as well.

second that ...and as I said, after seeing the great job you did in cutting it out { aside from cutting the upper door jam........I would have done that }, I was confused. I'm sure they got beat up out there......a little battle damage would fit right in

did you go by another user name a while ago? you seem familiar......... what do they call that....dislexia?

actually.......what you did isn't a bad thing. you could put the original door back in place, and it would actually look like it could open. you did a great job of cutting the door out. if you did elect to use the resin door, you could line it with card or plastic and sand it to fit. you don't want to add too much thickness to it because it will put the rest of the interior out of scale. PE rivets or thin strips of brass or something close to that would add the detail your looking for you don't want me to do what you did........first off.......the door would be history! blow torch anyone?

unique engine.......is it an L6? nice looking car.

I would think nothing less............

awesome job Danny.......your command of the paper medium is off the charts! I have to ask.......you have the loco, the tanker, and the flat car with logs.........must be what looks like a large diorama. where are you displaying them? love to see the entire display

ohhhhhhh....the train itself wasn't good enough! you have to go and create this beauty too!!! this is just too cool! awesome job Danny.......totally amazing! 👍

that is insanely gorgeous! the train is one thing Dan.......but the tracks! so.......your not totally done........but you can see the light at the end of the tunnel!

what did you use to anchor the dead eyes? she's still look'in sharp Doug!

I'll have to look and see if I have any of that hard stuff your talking about.......here's a breakdown of what I see: 1-#15 that looks to be the cap rail........they should have been told that there are two sides to a boat, and it doesn't have to be 2 mm thick 4-#21 apparently, these are to cover the inner bulwarks. nice thought, but I don't think I'll be doing that. I'll see what the inner bulwarks look like and go from there. says nothing about pin rails either. 13-1.8 X 6 mm strip this I believe is for above the waterline. the hull is to be double planked. there is no suggestion of what to use below the waterline 25- 1 X 10 mm strip this looks like it's to be the second planking...it can't be used as deck planking, it's too wide. this is the orange stuff.....it must be pine.....if you look close, you can see crystallized pitch on the surface. 16- ? X 10 mm strip this sadly is a jumble of 1.8 and 2 mm wood strips. it was taped together. it's badly warped........I'll use it somewhere, but not here. chances are, this is the stuff your talking about......I have no idea what the wood is. pretty dense....I'll grant cha that makes no sense to plank the hull with 2 different woods, especially if they are different thicknesses. I will post a picture of the Clotilda tomorrow.......it had a coppered hull. chances are, if this was an American or British ship, it may have been coppered too. I like your thoughts on the deck structures.......when you see the picture, you'll have a better idea

thanks OC and J ....and those who hit the like button I dunno OC........I've never really done that. most of the parts I cut with the scroll saw will never be seen anyway. I know I'm dealing with old wood, but the outer layer shouldn't come off like it has. not only that, tape tends to gum up the blade J.....I basically split the bulkhead down the middle, but then take into account of the keel. it just took some fitting. when I fare the frame, it will be sanded down to the contour of the hull, so the planking will meet the transom part without bulging. sanding is going to be tough......fresh plywood never sands quick. kits use a different type of plywood billet....some even use MDF.......it sands easy and quick with hardly any elbow grease filler blocks.......I hardly ever use them. the frames are relatively close together.....it shouldn't be too much of a problem icky Mae.....

is it the #404 or the #606? if it is this model, it is the #606. this is typical of a few of the Billing Boats kits......like the Norden and the St. Roch, which utilizes the half hull construction. the America reissue is another. to plank the hull frame, {for the stern} it looks to me that the planks terminate to the edge of the half keel about half way up. from the half way point, to the top of the bulwarks, a wedge of visible bow and stern stem must be exposed...say 3/16 of an inch. for the bow, the same increment must span down the entire stem. the garboard plank will expose the keel under the hull. I'm looking at the instructions.......your instructions should show this visually, if not in diagram and text. you can terminate the planks to the edge of the keel to make it easy, but you will need to add a keel strip where the two keel parts meet. start a log on your project, I'm sure that there are many here that can help welcome to MSW

I cut some of the plywood to try it out........not the old stuff.......I'll be attempting it later. here's a before and after comparison of how the splintering looks: before and after four copies of the #9 bulkhead was traced out......no need to do the glue and split method {as can be seen in the above pictures}. I did get some cuts that were ragged, but the wood behaved better on the table {I didn't use the pressure fork either}. it's not as bad though,,,,it looks more like a grain issue now...ripping across the grain that along it. the Craftsman did it too. the hull frame now stands without all the weights and clamps. the deck looks good....I do need to adjust the bow though {it's a bit off}. port side at #3 has a slight rise, but I'm not going to worry about it { a coil of rope will cover it }. it looks worse in the picture...once the hull's planked. I began to fare the frame, but without #10 in place, I'll be doing a second sanding. #10 is the transom bulkhead.......it was cemented in place at an angle; not as much as the stern stem, but enough to give the transom a slanted look. the extra slots intrigued me......I could just plank them over, but that's quite a span to cover. with one of the extra #9 bulkheads I cut out, one was sliced in half and will fill in the slots. I still need to add the braces for the transom. the deck platform is rounded and can be seen protruding above the #10 transom bulkhead. there is a cover that goes over this bulkhead and will give it a curved appearance when cemented in place. likely, this should be done after the hull is planked. I need to dry fit it to see if this is the case. more to come soon

I concentrated on 'Wulfie" to day as I pondered the problem with the scroll saw. I still need to cut a few things.....it would be good to be able to use it without the splintering. I was going to make another center plug out of wood, but I have nothing that thick. I tried to make up a shim for the plug, but that fell through.....it's just a matter of 1/32....... then I got an idea........add it to the original plug. hmmmmmm......sounds like something I'd do.........BRILLIANT!!! so....using CA, I glued sheet wood to the plug. I only have 4 inch stuff, so it doesn't go the entire circumference. the notches were cut out and sanded round....well....half round then the blade notch was cut out.......I wish I could have gotten away from the wide opening, but at this point, I'll be happy if it's an improvement. I didn't bother with that silly center circle. in place, the table is now totally flat

are you using it to plank the hull? I hope your ripp'in it down....seems a bit too wide. of course with how dense the wood is, there's little chance of kinking the other stuff....if it's as dry as mine, it will need a soaking

it was quite a draw Lou........at first I though it wasn't real. then I looked it up I don't do a lot of this kind of stuff.........I hardly weather anything. I'm just glad that it's working out. the white striping I mentioned turned out to be an easy problem to solve.......I'm painting the whole tip white and then I'll cut the stripe with the flat black. I'm waiting for them to dry at the moment. thanx for the kind comment the fuselage will be the next tricky part

well.........looks like you've definitely found some puzzles. back in the old days, my dad used to use STP.........swore by the stuff. in the winter it was hard to get it out of the can, so he'd put it on a Bunsen burner to warm it up. he didn't think to crack open the can first though..........what a mess! keep at it.........you'll figure it out

thanks OC and those who hit the like button.........added more decals to the top of the wings. there are to be five fuel inlets..apparently this model had none.......no molded detail at all. I pulled out the M.B. wings to see what they had for detail.......jackpot! I reserved ten of them for the model, along with black striping for the wing walks. the fuel inlets went Ok....... ....but the black striping didn't go so well. losing a section, it spelled the end for the striping I even started to mask the wings to spray them on.....but I'd never get them that thin. so, I took what was left and cobbled some of it together. then the stabilizers and ailerons were set up for the second round of shading.... faded the nacelles and props are next.......gotta paint on the white stripe on the props. I thought of using a paint pen, but but they fail to tell you that repeated use blunts the tip...it only made of felt. so that process is in the works at the moment

likely came out at the time that lots of kits came out in multiple color plastic, as an attraction to modelers who don't do a lot of painting. the only drawback was flow lines in the plastics. if you look at the silver parts, you can see it. I'm sure your going to paint it Jack......I agree with Ken on the canvas color. if you do a search on the color choices for the vehicle, you'll find one that'll tickle your fancy dust'in off my seat

look'in good OC!

things happen.......foresight is 1/2 of after thought. to be honest.......this is a model that you really want to do. perhaps trying this on a model that you don't care about would bring your skills back up to speed. I've run into this many times. I was away from plastic way too long, and am going through some of the same mistakes that I used to battle years ago. don't let it get you down or discourage you. remember, Murphy doesn't discriminate.......he jumps in wherever he can. I hope you can save it I know it's not a Huey.......but I think you'll smile.