Charter33

Thanks for the likes and looking in everyone. While the progress may not seem like much, in fact it isn`t much , it marks a milestone for me. Aside from a coat or two of poly I am on to the deck. I will decide on a paint scheme later.
 
I will mention that I don`t know how the heck anyone can edge bend 5 mm by 0.5 mm walnut the way it needs to be bent to form those lower wales. Obviously people do it but it is beyond me. I put many hours in trying. I gave up and milled my own stock and spiled it. The light wood is yellow cedar (edge bent). It bends well and sands better than basswood - but it isn`t much harder, so beware if you`ve been using walnut, this stuff is much softer and clamp marks will show up very easily.
 

 

Good evening for everyone.
The work continues with the exhaust pipes, the construction we made from brass tin everything was tinned and for the hinges we used M1 screws. Finally, the exhausts will be painted in chrome.
A beautiful evening still I want you.
 
Adrian

Good evening for everyone.
A little work for today.
A beautiful evening still will want.
 
Adrian .
 

Hello All, Thanks for the comments and Likes, as always very much appreciated.
 
Just A small update, I  have now the Rat lines sorted on the fore mast, port side so far. (Happy ? Yes, I think so .. Far to much to change if im not)
 
Im Doinging to coat the as it rat lines ( both completed sides ) in PA/water, before next stage, this sould give it a less bounce!!

The next step according to the instructions! I guess this is the equivalent to rigging a ship model
 
It is very nice to read all the different posts here. I learn a lot about WWI planes in general and the Fokker in particular and specifics, such as machine-guns and constructing rotary engines in 1/16 scale

Quite simply outstanding! Superb work, Heinz. Thank you for sharing it with us.
 
Graham

Another update, moving slowly but will get there someday!!  I am using the walnut supplied with the kit and to fit the planks I am using a combination of spiling and edge bending.  There is no doubt about it, that spiling is the best way to go.  Since I made my calculations on 5mm planks in width and I am leaving a small gap in between, where the curvature is small, I am getting away with it with spiling, especially where the planks narrow more.  But there are places especially at the bow, that apart from spiling as much as  can I have to do a bit of edge bending as well.

 
The top part of the hull is going to be painted, and the lower part is not going to be copper plated, I am leaving it on wood.  I left a small gap in between planks which later on I will fill with black filler so that the individual planks will show more (stole Heinz's idea). They will not come out as much as the deck planking as with the filler the walnut will darken a bit too. The planks which on the photo are showing whole lengths are the once which will be covered again with the wales.


 

 


Can't wait to have the stern fascia and the quarter gallery finished to cover the mess of paint on them.  I had painted the inside all black, but after I glued everything in place and tried the lights, I thought that  they would look better wit the inside white, so I had to paint them through the windows. I also planked the floor of the side quarter galleries through the windows.
 
 

Had to go for a drop strake as the ends were going to be too narrow in this band.
 
 


 
Robert
 
 
 

I found some left over rudder chain from my victory build which fitted nicely not a link to much or to little
 
did a bit more work on the transom and while waiting for paint to dry put together one of the lanterns from caldercraft and built some of the billings supplied swivel guns

 
there is a bit further work to do with the transom but im happy so far with the progress

Heh that looks great
Thec Copper Plates do not appear to curve as much at the Water line as the model instructions suggest but I feel it looks BETTER like you have done it

Also you appear to have put some planking between the Hawse Rails -

Hi Michael,
 
Great work on the bow bulkhead fillers!
Yes, the top of the last bulkhead does need to be flush with the middle support as there is a deck that sits on top. I would wait, however, until you have also fitted the stern extension pieces 105 and 106 as the whole lot can then be sorted out, ie. sanded down level, together. Just one point to watch out for in the future - the piece that sits on top of this area is shown as part 443 on plan sheet 1. I can't find this in the parts manual which skips from part 432 to 445. I think, from having a very quick look, that '443' is actually 447, the poop deck.. I'll check this again later. If any other builders have come across this they might be able to advise us.
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Yes - it was the 'stage 4' drawing that made me think that there had been an error in the top side view.
 
With reference to the sanding - glue the bulkhead in place, adjusting the central slot length might reduce the discrepancy at the top a little, and then once the stern extensions have been fitted wrap glass paper around a sanding block to keep it flat and carefully rub all the top edges until they are all the same height.
 
Hope this helps:
 

 

Hi Michael,
 
Great work on the bow bulkhead fillers!
Yes, the top of the last bulkhead does need to be flush with the middle support as there is a deck that sits on top. I would wait, however, until you have also fitted the stern extension pieces 105 and 106 as the whole lot can then be sorted out, ie. sanded down level, together. Just one point to watch out for in the future - the piece that sits on top of this area is shown as part 443 on plan sheet 1. I can't find this in the parts manual which skips from part 432 to 445. I think, from having a very quick look, that '443' is actually 447, the poop deck.. I'll check this again later. If any other builders have come across this they might be able to advise us.
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

First Planking

With the bulkheads set and the ply gunport patterns all glued in place the chamfering of the bulkheads were given a final ‘tweak’ prior to starting the planking. To help with this, and with the earlier shaping of the bulkheads, I put together a jig that held the model securely on its side. I found this helped with resisting the forces exerted when pushing the temporary pins in and could be used for the majority of the hull.
 

 

 


Following the advice given on this site concerning tools I invested in a pair of plank nippers. A bit of practice quickly proved what a useful piece of equipment these are, although I wouldn’t use them on the ships boats as the inside of the first planking of these is visible and the small groves the nippers leave would show. I have to date finished the first planking of the launch and some of the second planking.
The first couple of planks are laid without any need for tapering but to avoid forcing the initial planks into place I started by putting ‘stealers’ at both the bow and stern.
 

 

 
For the most of the planking the procedure was:
• Trim the plank end to match the stem
• Taper the top edges (with a slight undercut as well) for the first and last four or so bulkheads by anything from 1/3rd to 2/3rds of the plank’s width as determined by offering the plank up to its position. Leave plenty of overlap at the stern for later trimming
• Holding the plank in place pre-drill or bradawl (I used a map pin for this) pin holes through the plank and into a manageable number of bulkheads. (4 – 5 usually)
• Apply glue to four or five bulkheads at a time where there will be contact with the plank
• Apply glue to the matching length of the edge of plank
• Pin plank to bulkheads, and use clips between bulkheads to ensure good edge to edge contact.

Off-cuts of planking make great glue applicators!

Keep telling yourself – it’ll be fine when its sanded……..it’ll be fine when it’s sanded….
 

 

 


A few ‘stealers’ where required, especially at the stern, but these were no problem to cut to fit the gaps.
 


Sanding the hull to shape turned out to be more straight-forward than I anticipated but as it is a messy job the hull had to be transported to work for the task – you get some funny looks walking across the car park with one of these tucked under your arm! My only regret was filling blemishes with filler that was a bit darker than it could have been which tended to emphasize defects but as the whole lot gets covered with the second planking and subsequent painting it does not matter too much.

Next installment - juggling the components that make the Quarter Galleries.
 
 
Cheers for now,
 
Graham

Yes - it was the 'stage 4' drawing that made me think that there had been an error in the top side view.
 
With reference to the sanding - glue the bulkhead in place, adjusting the central slot length might reduce the discrepancy at the top a little, and then once the stern extensions have been fitted wrap glass paper around a sanding block to keep it flat and carefully rub all the top edges until they are all the same height.
 
Hope this helps:
 

 

Hi Michael,
 
Great work on the bow bulkhead fillers!
Yes, the top of the last bulkhead does need to be flush with the middle support as there is a deck that sits on top. I would wait, however, until you have also fitted the stern extension pieces 105 and 106 as the whole lot can then be sorted out, ie. sanded down level, together. Just one point to watch out for in the future - the piece that sits on top of this area is shown as part 443 on plan sheet 1. I can't find this in the parts manual which skips from part 432 to 445. I think, from having a very quick look, that '443' is actually 447, the poop deck.. I'll check this again later. If any other builders have come across this they might be able to advise us.
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Second planking done with a bit of sanding and sealer, final finis if any planking not painted will be matt

Hi,
With the gun ports now lined the construction manual recommends painting the hull before undertaking the copper plating and decking out the upper gun deck. With such a large area to deal with I had already made the decision that the way forward was to use an airbrush. Problem – never used one! Always up for a challenge, and able to access the equipment, the sensible decision was to have a go on something else first. My model ‘stash’ included two plastic kits - a Seafire bought primarily as a research source for detailing an electric motor powered R/C version  I was building, and a Gloster Javelin given to me by my department colleagues to keep me occupied while on extended sick leave. Haven’t built a plastic kit literally for decades and they have certainly come on in terms of complexity! These photos show the results.
 

 
Both kits had the feature of two colours meeting in a similar way to the black and yellow ocher strips on the Victory. To cut a long story short using an airbrush, like any new tool, requires plenty of practice. I got the hang of applying paint to broad areas but struggled a bit with achieving crisp lines where two colours meet. I resorted to having to touch these up with a paint brush. Rather than risk this on the hull I decided to modify my plans and use the airbrush to apply primer to provide a good base surface and then to brush on the final colours.
 
The first step was to blank off the open gun ports to stop the spray going into the hull. This was done with pieces of soft balsa sheet cut to size and pressed into place. The heal of a Swan – Morton scalpel handle proved idea for this task.
 

 
The stern fascia, the quarter gallery windows and the linings of the gun ports with lids were additionally protected with masking film.
Finally the top was sealed off with scraps of card and masking tape giving the hull the appearance of a prison hulk rather than a first rate ship of the line ……
 

 
The Admiral objects to me spraying paint in the house for some reason, although the same rules don’t count apparently when brushing or rolling emulsion, gloss etc. to walls, doors and ceilings ….mmmmm!  So, as I had to earlier with the plastic kits, a trip to the school workshops, currently empty of ‘clients’ due to the Easter holidays, was called for.
 
                        
 
The first coat of primer revealed a few gaps and blemishes that needed a little filler and a light sand before the second and final primer coat was applied.
 
                              
Job done!
 
                        
 
 
Next task – applying the colour ….
 
 
HMS Triton update. Made the journey over to the timber supplier I had found on-line and picked up a piece of cherry and some maple at a good price. A genuine Aladdin’s cave with some fantastic exotic hardwoods and as a bonus they have a range of wood turning blanks. Could have spent hours there! I’ll put details of the company in ‘Wood Discussion’ section. Now to try and source aluminium T track for the building board.
 
Cheers for now,
 
Graham.
 
 

Hi Steve,
 
Among her many talents the Boss (Admiral) is an accomplished stained glass worker.  In my role of 'Chief Sharpener of  tools' I've had to renew the cutting edge of a similar knife ....... 
 
Cheers,
 
Graham

Amazing work, Steve. Your rate of progress is also impressive. Like your use of the lead putty knife - very appropriate for constructing galley windows!
 
Cheers,
 
Graham

Amazing work, Steve. Your rate of progress is also impressive. Like your use of the lead putty knife - very appropriate for constructing galley windows!
 
Cheers,
 
Graham

Amazing work, Steve. Your rate of progress is also impressive. Like your use of the lead putty knife - very appropriate for constructing galley windows!
 
Cheers,
 
Graham

Building the gallery window frames first off I hade to capsize the ship ,this is not a problem as all the parts are glued and pinned in position ,you cant notice from the pictures but I have the stand pinned to the bottom of the ship this was because in my first build when it got to rigging etc if I wanted to move the ship I needed a second stand as the ship becomes difficult to lift with one hand and move stand to new location with the other hand this way I can lift the ship with both hands and the stand follows along
 

 
I took a rubing of the window apertures and taped this to a board with some clear double sided tape over my picture then I was free to build the window frame structure
after sanding I test fitted then painted prior to fitting you can also see how I plan to add the yellow to the red arched shape piece
 
and lastly I would like to thank you all for the likes and comments I love to see that little notification button lit red but earlier today this just blew my away thank you all so much
 
steve

Hi,
With the gun ports now lined the construction manual recommends painting the hull before undertaking the copper plating and decking out the upper gun deck. With such a large area to deal with I had already made the decision that the way forward was to use an airbrush. Problem – never used one! Always up for a challenge, and able to access the equipment, the sensible decision was to have a go on something else first. My model ‘stash’ included two plastic kits - a Seafire bought primarily as a research source for detailing an electric motor powered R/C version  I was building, and a Gloster Javelin given to me by my department colleagues to keep me occupied while on extended sick leave. Haven’t built a plastic kit literally for decades and they have certainly come on in terms of complexity! These photos show the results.
 

 
Both kits had the feature of two colours meeting in a similar way to the black and yellow ocher strips on the Victory. To cut a long story short using an airbrush, like any new tool, requires plenty of practice. I got the hang of applying paint to broad areas but struggled a bit with achieving crisp lines where two colours meet. I resorted to having to touch these up with a paint brush. Rather than risk this on the hull I decided to modify my plans and use the airbrush to apply primer to provide a good base surface and then to brush on the final colours.
 
The first step was to blank off the open gun ports to stop the spray going into the hull. This was done with pieces of soft balsa sheet cut to size and pressed into place. The heal of a Swan – Morton scalpel handle proved idea for this task.
 

 
The stern fascia, the quarter gallery windows and the linings of the gun ports with lids were additionally protected with masking film.
Finally the top was sealed off with scraps of card and masking tape giving the hull the appearance of a prison hulk rather than a first rate ship of the line ……
 

 
The Admiral objects to me spraying paint in the house for some reason, although the same rules don’t count apparently when brushing or rolling emulsion, gloss etc. to walls, doors and ceilings ….mmmmm!  So, as I had to earlier with the plastic kits, a trip to the school workshops, currently empty of ‘clients’ due to the Easter holidays, was called for.
 
                        
 
The first coat of primer revealed a few gaps and blemishes that needed a little filler and a light sand before the second and final primer coat was applied.
 
                              
Job done!
 
                        
 
 
Next task – applying the colour ….
 
 
HMS Triton update. Made the journey over to the timber supplier I had found on-line and picked up a piece of cherry and some maple at a good price. A genuine Aladdin’s cave with some fantastic exotic hardwoods and as a bonus they have a range of wood turning blanks. Could have spent hours there! I’ll put details of the company in ‘Wood Discussion’ section. Now to try and source aluminium T track for the building board.
 
Cheers for now,
 
Graham.
 
 

Hi,
With the gun ports now lined the construction manual recommends painting the hull before undertaking the copper plating and decking out the upper gun deck. With such a large area to deal with I had already made the decision that the way forward was to use an airbrush. Problem – never used one! Always up for a challenge, and able to access the equipment, the sensible decision was to have a go on something else first. My model ‘stash’ included two plastic kits - a Seafire bought primarily as a research source for detailing an electric motor powered R/C version  I was building, and a Gloster Javelin given to me by my department colleagues to keep me occupied while on extended sick leave. Haven’t built a plastic kit literally for decades and they have certainly come on in terms of complexity! These photos show the results.
 

 
Both kits had the feature of two colours meeting in a similar way to the black and yellow ocher strips on the Victory. To cut a long story short using an airbrush, like any new tool, requires plenty of practice. I got the hang of applying paint to broad areas but struggled a bit with achieving crisp lines where two colours meet. I resorted to having to touch these up with a paint brush. Rather than risk this on the hull I decided to modify my plans and use the airbrush to apply primer to provide a good base surface and then to brush on the final colours.
 
The first step was to blank off the open gun ports to stop the spray going into the hull. This was done with pieces of soft balsa sheet cut to size and pressed into place. The heal of a Swan – Morton scalpel handle proved idea for this task.
 

 
The stern fascia, the quarter gallery windows and the linings of the gun ports with lids were additionally protected with masking film.
Finally the top was sealed off with scraps of card and masking tape giving the hull the appearance of a prison hulk rather than a first rate ship of the line ……
 

 
The Admiral objects to me spraying paint in the house for some reason, although the same rules don’t count apparently when brushing or rolling emulsion, gloss etc. to walls, doors and ceilings ….mmmmm!  So, as I had to earlier with the plastic kits, a trip to the school workshops, currently empty of ‘clients’ due to the Easter holidays, was called for.
 
                        
 
The first coat of primer revealed a few gaps and blemishes that needed a little filler and a light sand before the second and final primer coat was applied.
 
                              
Job done!
 
                        
 
 
Next task – applying the colour ….
 
 
HMS Triton update. Made the journey over to the timber supplier I had found on-line and picked up a piece of cherry and some maple at a good price. A genuine Aladdin’s cave with some fantastic exotic hardwoods and as a bonus they have a range of wood turning blanks. Could have spent hours there! I’ll put details of the company in ‘Wood Discussion’ section. Now to try and source aluminium T track for the building board.
 
Cheers for now,
 
Graham.