Bob Legge

Some more.
 

 

Thanks for the fine compliments, and comment.
Their construction is very simple..first you take a piece of copier paper...draw in scale all the panel lines...mine is 3/32 to 1ft.  Don't forget both sides.
 
Then you measure and cut out the sail to size.  I then cut and place banding using simple white glue(dries fast).  You'll have to follow the design of the period and vessel you are building.
 
Next I form the sail by rolling it over a 1/4" dowel..working it gently and rolling it to form the billow.
 
I then us two colors of tan/cotton paint to simulate slightly different sail colors...to add dimension and realism. I'll paint one sail slightly darker then another...if you know what I mean.
Several light coats per side will do....you want the panel lines to show through opaquely.
 
Once done you can then add the hardware for the clews and sheets.
I still have to add these on this topgallant sail. 
 
Rob
 

Here are some pics of the partially finished topgallant .
 
Rob

Well, tragedy struck when I took my model to one of the local club meetings. I don't know how it happened, but I had the model in a travel box to help keep it from getting damaged. It made it just fine through a 114 mile round trip to one meeting. The next meeting, more like 30 miles one-way, I'm pretty sure it survived just fine. It wasn't until it was sitting in the box in our model shop (I tried to keep it out of harm's way), that it looks to me like someone leaned on the box and broke up the aft structure.
 
It's not the first time that taking a model to a meeting, particularly one stored in a box to protect it, appears to have been damaged in this way. I have one model that I just never got around to repairing.
 
Fortunately, when I got it home, I found that most of the damage was done to various glue joints. No wood was actually broken. So, I had a small stack of puzzle pieces to fit back together. But, all in all, I was able to make the repairs pretty quickly, and with visible signs of the damage. 
 
However, this did keep me from finishing the oars before I had to leave for the NRG Conference. So, I simply took it with me, along with some tools, glue, etc. Since I was driving there anyway, taking the extra things was no problem. I got to the location in the evening and took the model up to my room, added the remaining oars, and it was on display the next morning!
 
Here was the model the night before the accident, displayed at the meeting of the South Bay Model Shipwrights at the Los Altos Public Library. It is shown here next to a model of a club model of a Viking ship in the same scale.

 
The model was one of three scratch built Japanese "wasen" models that I brought to the NRG Conference. That's the Japanese Wooden Boatbuilding book by Douglas Brooks, which I used for the Urayasu Bekabune model in the center. On the left is my Hozu river boat.

 
And, finally, the completed Kamakura period Sea Boat...
 

 
鎌倉時代の海船
 
 
After seeing the model on display at the conference, I decided to officially call this project complete. Being that this is part of an ongoing research project, I'll always be adding some small details to it. I could either leave it as permanently incomplete, or simply call it "done" and sneak little additions to it over time. So, I'm opting for the latter option.
 
I did feel that the model was a bit small for this display. At 1/50-scale, it's 21-1/2" long. If I make another, which is very likely, I think I'll opt for something like 1/30-scale, making it up to 35" long. Of course, the larger the scale, the more details I'll need to add, and the better job I'll have to do. 
 
In any case, this has been a test bed for reconstructing this type of boat. I think my next step is to get a first-hand look at a couple of the Japanese museum models built of this type of boat. That's going to take some savings and fundraising again to make the next trip to Japan!
 
 

Next visit I will rig the upper and lower topsail's halyards block purchases that fix to the top.  The topgallant and royal sheets will follow the downward path along with the buntlines to the rail.
 
The interesting part will be when I add the first sail (Royal).  I will need to affix the clew to the sheet at the sail corner garnet (from the topgallant yard)...the trick is permitting just enough oversize or width of the sail so that when it is fixed it will naturally bow...giving the sail the *Full* effect.
Once this process is accomplished I will lift the sail up and affix it to the royal yard.
After this I can rig the buntlines.
 
Before all this funnary...I will add the foot rope stirrups.
 
Rob
 

I built a few more blocks for the buntlines.

Spent a bit of time today rigging up the foot ropes and adding more blocks and sheets.
 
Rob

I make slings of blocks like this. And you ?

The end of the process. If you have any questions about this, I will be happy to help!

Ciao e grazie a tutti
 
Hello and thanks to all
 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto

Hello everyone and thank you for all your likes.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto

Hello Pete,
thank you for your appreciation of my work.
 
A few days ago I received the linen yarn from Bockens NeL 120/2 and Goldschild NeL 100/3 and immediately struck a rope with 2 threads per hook. For the linen yarn of Goldschild NeL 100/3, this resulted in a rope with ø 0.75 mm (on the right in the picture) and for the linen yarn of Bockens NeL 120/2 a rope with ø 0.55 mm (left in the picture).
These yarns are a lot thinner, like those already presented. This makes it possible to make even the thinnest ropes I need in the upper rigging for the La Crèole.
Of course, practice is still required. It gets better from rope  to rope; the experience is steadily increasing and it's even fun.

Surely it will be even better, but for now from my point of view as good.

Here are some more Experiments (left to right):
DMC Ecru No. 100  6 x 3 rope diameter 1.40 mm; cotton
DMC Ecru No. 80  6 x 3 rope diameter 1.50 mm; cotton
DMC Ecru No. 80  8 x 3 rope diameter 1.65 mm; cotton
DMC Ecru No. 100  1 x 2 rope diameter 0.45 mm; cotton
Alterfil No. 120  2 x 3 rope diameter 0.58 mm; polyester
Bock's No. 470 NeL 120/2  8 x 3 rope diameter 1.25 mm; linen


 

To stop the boat at either end of traveled distance, an optical-switch is being incorporated. The switch is triggered when the boat vane cuts the light beam between its 'U' structure. Two sets of brackets are needed for both ends. The switch needs to be positional to compensate for any vane drift after switch-off. In other words, I can position it to have the vane stop before crash into end of travel (slot in display table).
 
Changed design of track supports. It already is supported at both ends, so it does not need to be also screwed to slot braces (as in original drawings). Instead, another track support will be placed half way along the track. This will stiffen the track and eliminate any sagging.


You will notice two slots per side bracket. Originally it was to be one long slot. I realized that the centre portion was not really required, so I left it in.

Sorry for the lack of progress. I have been away from the shed several weeks. I have completed some mor framing including the step for the mainmast.
Had to remake some frames which were inaccurate.
Cheers
Dick
 

Such clean and excellent work as usual, Matiz!

photos with 2 table lamps

Hello all
It has been a while since I updated my log. I have been working on my Leopard in spurts and did manage to get some things done.  I made all the cannons for the upper gun deck. They are just dry fit for now. I was busy reworking single and double blocks to make them look “acceptable” along with about 100 eyes for the cannon tackle. Lately I have been spending most of my time making components, tiny components that are time consuming. But that is what scratch building is all about. There will be plenty of assembly later. 


 
I also built some of the quarter deck. Still have a lot of work to do there. 

 
Progress has been slow but steady. 
 
Tom

Hi Duff,
Then both of us would be in a bad situation - not having enough clamps  
I am too scared of using sandpaper, since they will clamp finished parts. I already used soft basswood on another kinds of clamps that I used for deck clamps - it works like charm, compressing basswood fibers and leaving no traces on harder pear or boxwood.
My clamps are basically ready, just need to glue in the handles with epoxy and make some final photos. They look pretty nice with the finish!
 
I am currently in Rochefort, France, on the biggest ship modelling festival I ever saw: https://5500.forumactif.org/t3117-expo-a-rochefort-du-17-au-21-octobre-2018
100 models on display!
Sneaky photo while everybody went out to enjoy some cocktails. Will post a proper photo album later, and hoping for People With Big Cameras to publish their photos as well.


 
Met a number of people from MSW - Alex M with his Sphynx, Ricci with L'Amarante and Tiziano with his 74 gun ship. Pardon if I haven't recognised somebody!
 
It was a unique opportunity to see a number of recently made models from some of the best people in this hobby. Apart from being in awe, I made a few interesting observations, also related to ageing of various materials, which is hard to see on your own model when it is new:
 Even the best craftsman have some whoopsies, gaps between planks and minor mistakes. Except Remco, I guess - he just tends to re-do everything until there are no mistakes   And that small mistakes do not spoil an impression from some great models. So I should not worry too much about mistakes I made, that is very comforting! Would still try to avoid making more of them...  Should be careful when simulating black caulking between the deck planks - quite a few models have that black colour leeching into the wood.  Trying to darken the pear or age it is extremely tricky, if you do not want it to look smoked. Definitely calls for many many long experiments Brass treenails leave fine brass dust in pores of some woods, so one should think twice and experiment a lot before using them. They are quite common in the french modelling community, looks nice on a black ebony wales. Also, the glue that holds them might turn darker over time (or discolour the wood around the nail). Be careful there. I got that effect even when sanding clamps - they have brass rods, as soon as you start sanding with 400 grit or finer - brass dust gets into cherry and it's impossible to get it out, making cherry look dirty. Should be easier with pear though. Ebony shrinks a lot over time with humidity and temperature deviations, so most of that beautiful ebony wales and planking and headwork develop very visible cracks and gaps over time. Apparently this is pretty normal and well known, some fill that gaps with black epoxy, etc. Well, thanks, will definitely try dyed pear instead. Did not know that fact before. It is really hard to keep rigged models dust-free or clean them. On average, decks of "bare" models were much cleaner than rigged models. Rigging the model makes it very hard to look closer on deck fittings, structures inside the ship, etc. It is basically impossible, because a viewer is afraid of bumping into some mast or a boom, so need to keep quite a distance. It was much easier to explore the "bare" models. Mirror bases are interesting. There were few models displayed on a mirror, very easy to see the underside of the hull this way.  

Getting ready in the workshop to start modeling again, humidity coming back into controllable range with my system, QA Barge just about complete and summer projects will be put away for Winter over next couple of weeks.
 
First thing on list is to mill some Swiss pear to correct dimensions to continue with lower deck framing.
 
Looking at the hull there has been absolutely no movement over the summer months - 😅 
 
ben

Its amazing now the addition of a few pieces makes it all start to look like a ship and it starts to come together, all starboard channels are now made and have bolts nothing glued as yet as I have to work out how to make the supporters
From the bow

Mizzen

Main and stool

Fore

And a little test with a boxwood deadeye, I noticed some scratches on the fore channel and removed it to refinish, this is what I'm using for polishing up the pear to a smooth shine from left to right finishing with 0000 wire wool

Regards
Paul
 

Experiment to try and recreate the caulking lines as per the Cheerful, four beech planks all have had three coats of sanding sealer smoothed inbetween
Right hand side(bottom) also had some oil rubbed in and then painted on top, I'm sure the colour doesn't matter as its still acrylic
Left hand side is straight paint well watered down as per landrottens suggestion

As yet no reaction like my cheerful Hull, only difference is this is beech and the Hull is holly, could that have anything to do with it??? And still needs a few more coats of paint
 
Regards
Paul 

hey folks! it's been a while since we posted last progress update. in the meantime I have managed to finish the hull thus completing the first two volumes of TFFM series. yay! 
 
currently doing the standing rigging, and having a blast with it.... sort of... ropes are not fun in 3D. but the ship is looking more and more beautiful with each day. can't wait to set sails... anyway, Greg gave me green light to post a few renders. hope you like!
 




 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 305 – Spanker Gaff 2
 
(First a side note: While I very much appreciate some of the supportive comments following my last post, I deeply regret that we are having this dialogue at all.  In the almost 6 years of regular posting on this site I have been very grateful for the comments, questions, suggestions, and yes, the constructive criticism that my work has received.  In return I have done my best to answer all questions, explain detailed aspects of the work, appropriately adopt suggestions for improvement, and to improve the posts based on what followers seem to want.  I truly hope that this will not be disrupted by any of my recent comments.  I wish there were sufficient time to address every comment adequately, even those that require time consuming analysis, careful response, and yes, polite rebuttal.  Unfortunately, time is limited.  I only ask that my need to prioritize be acknowledged.
 
Some basic clarification of the basis of my rigging work may help.  There is no set of plans or definitive data describing the full rigging of Young America.  The ship had a 30 year career, several different owners, and many different captains.  The ship evolved from the extreme clipper concept of her early career to the more mundane plodding of her later years.  Her career spanned a period of major changes in ships' rigs as chain, wire, and new iron fittings emerged.  For these reasons I have never represented that my design is a replica of the actual ship or any other ship.  The design is based on input from the best primary and secondary documented references available to me.  Thanks.)
 
The first picture shows the spanker gaff with all its rigging installed.
 

A simple lashing between eyebolts on the throat was used to fasten the gaff to the spanker mast.  In the picture the two lines slanted down to the deck in an inverted V are the vangs.  These long pendants with tackles control the sweep of the gaff.  A signal halyard is run through a block at the end of the gaff and belays on the iron rail.  The next picture provides a better view of the peak halyard and other rigging to the gaff.

 
The standing end of the peak halyard is fixed to the topmast crosstrees, runs down to a single block near the end of the boom, back through a double block at the cap, through another single block on the gaff, back through the cap block, then down to belay on the mast spider band. 
 
The head outhauler may be seen in the next picture.
 

 
The standing end of the outhauler is stopped under the gaff at the gooseneck.  It then runs under the gaff to the sheave at the end, back through a single block hooked under the port side of the cap, thence to a tackle hooked on the deck and belayed on the port pin rail.  The tackle is long enough to allow the standing end of the line to be hauled out to the end of the gaff.
 
The next picture shows the throat halyard tackle under the top.
 

 
The throat halyard tackle that was used to raise the entire gaff is hooked under the port trestletree and to the throat of the gaff.  The fall then runs down along the mast to be belayed on the spider band.  The picture also shows the head outhauler stopped off in the block under the gaff throat band.  The line stopped in this block is the head inhaul (or downhaul) used to take in the sail at the top.  This line also runs down to a tackle on the deck aft of the throat tackle.  The next picture shows the two tackles.  The inhaul tackle is almost block-to-block since the inhaul is fully overhauled to the gaff throat – waiting for a sail.
 

 
It will be nice to get rid of this unsightly masking tape but for now it is a lifesaver in keeping rope and other debris out of the decks below.
 
 
Ed

I've tried yarn as well, but it doesn't look as smooth as wire. A possibility would be black monofilament, but it is not so easy to knot in knots that don't open again and into equal knots.