druxey

Reconstruction of the aft wall of the upper deck.
Drawing of what remains.

Result.
Swivel guns may have originally been placed here. That's why two holes were provided in the beam on each side. Whether these were still present after the renovation...?

The supports in the middle are a guess. 

The drainage channel of the deck above; once painted, you won't notice the wire anymore.

It's been quite a while since my last post but I have made some progress. The garboard planks went on without too much difficulty, though I found I didn't have much room for error with the amount of overlap at either end. One was a little too far to the bow; one a little too far to the stern, but not a total deal breaker.
 
The broad planks gave me a much harder time. Looking back, I think it's probably because there are more variables at play, especially for a novice. I didn't realize until after the glue dried that on the port side, the two planks overlapped each other much more than starboard (first photo). I managed to to scrape the glue back to the first frame on that side and reattach it in a slightly better position. There's quite a bit more excess glue now, but I think the alignment looks much better (second photo). There is a similar issue at the stern, but it's not as bad and I had some CA glue mixed into those joints so I'm going to leave it. All part of the journey I suppose and hopefully I can take what I learned here and apply it to the final planks.

The contours of the model gradually take shape.

Thank you all for your kind comments and likes!!!  

Great subject, Chuck! And off to a good start.

Microcrystalline wax is much better than beeswax for rigging as well.
 
Enjoying your build log very much, Mati, since I discovered it!

It is unfortunate that the kits do not have a better quality of line. Getting 'real' rope is a game changer!

It is unfortunate that the kits do not have a better quality of line. Getting 'real' rope is a game changer!

Silence over the several weeks make one worry a bit in these disturbed days - however, high-quality sheet-metal work as usual! 

6. and now I am putting all the parts of the chimney together

5. soldering the ventilation visor in the upper part of the pipe casing

4. soldering the ventilation visor in the lower part of the pipe casing

Thanks.
 
I know some people "pickle" brass with Sodium Bisulfate (SPAREX NO. 2) to clean the surface and provide a bit of roughness. It is an acidic solution. This is usually done before using a blackening solution.
 
Caustic soda (Sodium Hydroxide) is a strong base and has been a component of soaps for a long time. Concentrated sodium hydroxide will cause chemical burns on the skin.

You are finishing up quite nicely, Matt!  Congratulations!  And, yes, after my first build, I became a Ropes of Scale customer and fan, as well.  All my subsequent ships have their rigging.  Congrats again on a great looking Pram! 👍🏆

Log #17 - Sail & Rigging
 
I figured the rigging on this little thing would be a quick breeze. I didn't anticipate the the number of tiny knots needed. Fiddling with that really small line takes some getting used to. Kudos to everyone that uses the kit supplied like, or as I call it - the devils line. That stuff is atrocious to work with, I placed an order with ropes of scale soon after the dory build.
 
I'm either way too particular, not very good at rigging, doing something wrong or it's not apparent how much time it takes to apply all the lashings and rigging. I find most build logs have a post on the sails and then the next post is typically "all done!".
 
I'm done the sail, it's 'bent to the spars' (is that the right term), most lines are in place and ready to go. I'm waiting for the glue to dry on the forestay knot so I figured I'd write up the last log before 'completion' (I'll still need to add the oars at a later date). Shroud lines are attached to their clips and ready to go as soon as the forestay is dry.
 
Thank you to @Kenchington for the idea of pocketing the battens. I'm not entirely sure I would've thought of it myself, but my own sail is built that way, and I don't recall ever seeing a board with floating, exposed battens like that. A Chinese junk style sail is all I could picture, but those go right to the mast.
 
Had I had enough forethought, I would've set the battens back a bit so I could close off the front of the pocket, but oh well.

 

 
 
They may be a little out of scale, but I decided to use some small 1.5mm eyelets in lieu of paint for the grommets. I found some 1mm, but they were coming from China and won't arrive until next month. Although on the big side, I'm happy with how they turned out, they were nice to work with.

 
For the smaller holes, I did use the paint idea which is very smart. I used the same 'gold' metallic paint I used on the oarlocks. I was back and forth on pocketing the battens, but I'm happy with the result.

 
While waiting for the paint to dry, I decided to put in the optional extra effort to shape the block, and used a walnut stain.

 

 
Bending the sail... I'm a visual learner and I must've read the lashing instructions 4-6 times before I decided to grab a piece of line and give it a shot. Once I started threading it through, it all started making way more sense and worked out well.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Rigging up the block. The instructions aren't very particular about how much line to use or how high to set it so I made some adjustments until it 'felt' about right. I almost left one knot so I could tighten or loosen when the sail went on and I may end of regretting it, but I glued it up anyways.
 

 

 
Letting the knots dry without touching anything. I used figure 8 knots for all the stopper lines here and elsewhere.

 
Prepping the standing rigging
 

 

 

 

 

 
It wasn't clear to me which knot to use for the forestay loop that goes around the mast. I thought of using a noose knot, but then figured it would be far to hard to get the length exact. I opted for the same style as above. It test fit well so hopefully nothing slipped before I tightened and glued the... serving? I'm not exactly sure what to call those two smaller line reinforcements. (The black mark in the middle of the loop is the center line for the mast, provided everything lines up well it should be covered by the mast and cleat)
 

 
I cannot recommend Ropes of Scale enough. I'm sure any scale model rope makers, including home made is just as good. For those of you that haven't or won't start making your own, it's a worthwhile upgrade to any model expo owned kits. I swear, those guys must be masochists to give us that bouncy nylon trash.
 
That's all I have for tonight, thanks for following along. I definitely wouldn't be this far, but the wife knows I'm trying to finish it up so was giving me lots of time today.

I finished installing the double up and down  ladders into their small hatchway :



 

Officers have now their good down ladder :

The kitchen is finished, including the two fireplaces, tomorrow, the three descent ladders :


 

At least focussing on the model may provide some distraction.

Welcome aboard! I recall seeing St Roch in Vancouver some years ago, She makes an interesting subject. Looking forward to seeing your progress. And there is nothing like good ol' fashioned manual drafting! (I'm also doing some this afternoon.) 

Added the boat skids and remade the steering box and added the elevated helm grating.  
 
Rob

Added the Taft rail.  Still need to finalize the ends.  
 
Rob

Worked through the pain, and made the two capstans.  The forecastle double action that drives the windless below and the mahogany one amidships.   I then built the three hatchways and the small ladder access cover in front of the mizzen.   I made and painted the two large boats on the main house.   I opted to paint these a very dark green with blackened bottles , to mimic many paintings of Staghound. Still need to make their skids.   
 
Rob

They’re only 4mm.   I get to suffer. 

Sorry about the kidney stones, Rob - nasty. Lithotripsy, perhaps?