druxey

I just keep admiring your clean detailed work, Doris. 

Scratch-molding the rabbet will work well, I agree, along most of the keel. However, you will still need to cut the fore and aft ends with hand tools where the changing relationship of garboard angle to keel occurs.

Your amazing work just keeps on coming, Ed!

Your amazing work just keeps on coming, Ed!

Druxey and David, thanks.  The only thing I could think of as I finished the deck was...thank god this isn't a frigate!
 
I deferred making any of the items that attach on to the upper deck (except for the fore and main mast partners) until the entire deck was completed.  Now it is time for some small projects which will vastly improve the monotony of the appearance of beams and scantlings.  The first thing made was the capstan step. The shape of the step varied among the Swan class ships.  In TFFM, David shows a three piece rectangular step.  Atalanta has a tear-drop shaped step.  At this point I was still psyched from finishing the deck, so I forgot to take pictures of the step fabrication.  The step is made of three pieces of wood rabbeted together.  The inner piece was 14" thick and the outer pieces were 10" thick.  The edge of the 14" thick wood was highlighted on both sides with archival ink. The top of the step is flat, stands 7" proud of the beam and is parallel to the waterline, not to the deck.  There is a hole in the middle for the capstan post.  The step is secured to the beams and carlings with bolts.
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
The mizzen partner is a simple plank, in contrast to the complex structures of the fore and main partners.  The most difficult part is placing the hole in the correct location because of the rake of the mizzen mast.  I do not plan on masting and rigging Atalanta so I took the location of the opening off the plan rather than make a dummy mast.
 

 

 

Progress continues.  My drafting skills leave something to be desired. Freehand curved lines are tough, even harder to keep parallel.  I think the half breadth will be the hardest of the drawings.  Not really sure how I am going to approach that but that is far off in the future.  I think I may start the standing rigging drawing next, followed by running rigging, then sail plan. 

One problem to think about - tea and coffee are acidic and contain tannins - they may react with the cloth over time and break it down.  Woodcraft and similar sell wood finishing products - especially water based and alcohol based dyes.  They tend to be more stable over time.

Christian,
 
I agree with druxey that it is easiest to cut the keel rabbet before framing.  The floor timbers will interfere with the v-gouge.  However, I believe the rabbet can be successfully formed after framing with a scraper like the one below.
 

 
On Young America there is no hogg on the keel so forming the complete rabbet leaves very fragile feathered edges on the upper corners.  I was afraid these would be damaged in later construction, so I only partially cut the rabbet (using this tool) before framing, then went back after framing with the scraper to finish the job.  The scraper rides on the bottom of the keel and needs to be made to clear the floor timbers - like the one in the picture.  I believe this method could be used to form the rabbet after framing.
 
Ed

Hi and thanks for the comments and likes.
 
As well as making the acrylic stands that will hold the stem/stern in place on the buildboard I have also started the stern framing.
 
Here is the all important Wing transom cut out of 18" stock and the 3" roundup sanded in so the piece is 15" all the way across. Now to start the shaping. I have left the ends 1/32 oversize to allow adjustment with the cant frame.
 
Ben

Finished channels on port and first deadeyes on them:



 
 






 
Finished:


 
Kind regards
Doris

Dear friends,
I warmly thank you for your praise and all comments, I am honoured a lot and appreciate your kind words.
 
 Well, these cleats are my newest and I spent plenty of time searching suitable way, how to make them. I have to admit that my first cleats were not very good.
 
 
 
That's a walnut-tree wood. I like this kind of wood, it has a nice colour and it is quite easy to machined it.
 
 
And now what's new on Royal Caroline...
There are finished all cleats and now I am working on channels and deadeyes - they are made on CNC lathe (not my own - I purchased them here:
http://www.radekshipmodels.cz/en/list-of-kits-and-accessories/accessory---blocks ), but it is necessary to improve the deadeyes for more realistic appearance and better looking surface.
 
 
Here are some pics, please enjoy them:
 


 

 
All channels were glued onto wooden beams - one of them is highlighted with red spots on first picture below. These beams were embed into the hull and secured with glue. I tested the durability and bond strength and it proved to be a very good solution at card models.

 






 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 48 – Starboard Ceiling Treenailing and Bolting
 
In the first picture, the floor ceiling planking is installed except for Treenailing.  The thicker bilge ceiling above it  has been completed up to the underside of the lower deck clamp, except for the bolting.
 
 
 
While the last few strakes of bilge ceiling were being installed both the bolting and treenailing was begun.  The next picture shows some of these fasteners installed.
 

 
The copper wire bolts in the thicker ceiling show as bright dots in this picture.  They were iron bolts driven through each frame and riveted flush inside and out.  Before finish is applied these will be blackened.  This section of floor planking below the thicker strakes has been treenailed and some sanding has begun.  The butt ends of these planks were secured with iron blunts, represented here by black monofilament CA glued in.
 
All of the tree nailing was completed in three sessions that included making the treenail strips from bamboo skewers.  In the next picture one of these .020” strips has been dipped in glue and is being inserted into a predrilled hole.
 

 
The holes are just large enough for a slip fit.  After pressing to the bottom of the hole using the clippers, the strip is cut off as shown below, the new end is sharpened with a razor blade and the process is repeated a few hundred times.
 

 
The excess glue is washed off with clean water.  When dry the nail heads are filed off flush as shown below.
 

 
The planking was then sanded with 120-grit followed by 220-grit paper and then buffed with Scotchbrite as shown below.
 

 
The next picture shows the area at the stern after these steps.
 

 
The next picture shows a section of the ceiling after all of the treenailing was installed and the planking sanded and buffed. 
 

 
The wire bolting of the thicker strakes is only partially complete on the right side of this picture. The treenails are not too pronounced in this picture, but they will “pop out” and be more visible when finish is applied later.  The iron bolts at the butts are quite visible here.  The copper bolts into the top of the keelson at the lower margin of the picture were copper and will not be blacked.
 
All of the ceiling work on the starboard side is now complete.  The next step will be to sand down the bolts on the outside of the frames and then move on to the ceiling on the port side.
 
 Ed

I have finally finished the upper deck framing.  The first three photos show the deck before final fairing.  The last two are after everything has been sanded down.  I started with 100 grit and progressively sanded down to 400 grit.  I finished with a razor blade scraper.  There was a slight hump in beam 20 which was corrected with the sanding.
 

 

 

 

 

It would be very difficult to cut in the upper edge of the rabbet once all the frames are in, as they will be on the way of your cutting tools. Try using a very well honed V-gouge. Take very tiny shavings off and correct any waviness with succeeding cuts as you deepen the rabbet.

Mark, It was much easier making the giant rule ;~)
 
B.E. Thank you I am glad it is useful.
 
Sailor, That sounds a lot easier said than done. I will see what I can do.
 
Earlier when I was making the bowsprit stays and creating some eyes with the shrink tube I did give the tapering some thought, and I did serve the whole area to cover the shrink tube on one of the eyes.
 
In the following picture the shrink has been served but I did not taper the strands.
 

 
The eye on the right toward the end of the bowsprit still needs to be served to cover the shrink.
 

 
One of the reasons for learning how to make the real splice is because one of the shrink eyes did come loose early on, it could be seized and only a short piece of shrink used then served and it would look Ok but it would not be as strong.
 
Michael
 
 

Thank you Crackers, after all it was Doris that got me into the whole model boat building caper.
 
Thanks Bob, My hope is to improve both the look and the time it takes to do it.
 
Denis I take it you have experience the terrible twos?
 
Greg Thanks , and I can see why it takes a few times to get it right.
 
John I don't think my finger would take to kindly to getting skewered with fine wires.
 
Mark thanks, your commendation is greatly appreciated.
 
Texxn5 thank you for looking in and your kind remark.
 
I have been "practicing" today and made some sequential pics of this splice here.
 

 
Now all I have to do is learn how to taper the splice make some better thimbles. and make more shackles and blocks
 
Michael
 

These days I am working on wooden cleats - all is handmade and i use only basic tools. There are also finished other railings.
Here are some pics:


 



 
 







 

Hey Daniel, there's no such thing as a bad question. If people didn't ask "why is that like it is" I wouldn't go back and correct the deliberate errors I make to test peoples' observational skills.......
 
Nils, every time I look at the forum I see new things to try and parts to make - the work done here is inspirational to say the least, for example your Pamir.
 
As for me, no progress this week.
 
Not even a little bit.
 
I have a good reason though.
 
The Admiral wanted some special knitting needles made to knit rugs with, so it was plain to the simple deckhand that a tool was required for the task.......
 

 
Obviously a CNC kit would be beneficial to optimise said deckhand's time in the yard......(What can I say, I work in IT, lived with computers since 1976 and remain fascinated by geek stuff, love toys of all types and this thing is just immense fun.)
 
Haven't started on the needles yet, but have done some test subjects just to be sure I get them right ....

Here we see examples of a "pointy" end that didn't meet specifications for wool handling. And apparently they were too short .... sigh, I shall just have to try more "tests"
 
and , ok, I admit the whole needle idea came up after the lathe arrived....
 
This is the third attempt on both the carronade and cannon (we don't like to talk of the 2nd attempt at both - hair raising would be an appropriate comment, if I had any). I am practising using Acetal (Derlin) plastic rod which I believe is hard to glue bits to, so brass will be the final material - I just have to get brave enough to see the metal fly and then relearn soldering - fortunately there is a very good thread on soldering on the forum.
 
However it is back to the "real" work this weekend, I promise.
 
Oh, and the needles.....mustn't forget the needles.......

Hah! Catch them young. Hopefully the young lady will become a future Doris, Toni, or Sherry….

Hah! Catch them young. Hopefully the young lady will become a future Doris, Toni, or Sherry….

Hah! Catch them young. Hopefully the young lady will become a future Doris, Toni, or Sherry….

Hah! Catch them young. Hopefully the young lady will become a future Doris, Toni, or Sherry….

the time is passing by and here is a new year!
so i give you the last pictures:
Agrandir cette imageRéduire cette image Cliquez ici pour la voir à sa taille originale.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Agrandir cette imageRéduire cette image Cliquez ici pour la voir à sa taille originale.

 
 
 
 
 
 
Agrandir cette imageRéduire cette image Cliquez ici pour la voir à sa taille originale.

I think I was amember of this forum a long time ago?  does anyone remember my ship model of the Uss Pennsylvania of 1837?  My Name is Greg I am 56 years old and the ship is about 90% finished now.

Hi everyone,
 
Quick update. I roughed in the helm port, which will be refined in size once I have a rudder to check against it. Getting this port shaped meant I could finally fit the center counter timber, which mortised into it. I don't know if this is the right joint here, but it made sense when I looked at it all. All pieces are now shaped and fitted. Time to cut the dovetails at the tops of the counter timbers, and fit the quarterdeck transom....
 
Mark